Where to start with this engine rebuild? |
Post Reply | Page <1234> |
Author | |
KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hey Kris - you need to update your avatar.
|
|
Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
|
Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Pete,
Thanks for your input. I assumed when I bought the boat that a rebuild was going to be necessary. This pretty much was just confirmation that I paid a good price for what I got, not an incredible price for something better than expected. where to go from here... I could pull it apart, hoping nothing in the water jacket is cracked, machine the block and put pistons and bearings and rings in, and throw on some rebuilt heads and call it a day, or I can search out a roller block and rebuild that... I think either way I'll be looking to put a Holley 4160 carb on it, with a distributor either electronic, or points. - Kevin, yep, you're right I need to make another diary entry, but have been spending all the time I can in the boat... even if it is in the driveway I've had two lookers on the 82, and lots of emails, but so far, no takers. Projects are a hard sell to some I guess |
|
89Martinique
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2011 Location: Binghamton Status: Offline Points: 457 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Again,
If you ditch the Protec, I would be happy to take it off you hands I would like to have a spare to tear apart and try to fix to keep... |
|
Current Boats:
1992 Supra Comp-TS6M PCM 351w HO Pro Boss Pro-Tec Ignition - Full Composite (no wood stingers!) 1989 (3rd Gen) Correct Craft Martinique B/R PCM 351w Power Plus 1984 E-Scow Keuka Lake, |
|
TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21125 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I disagree. A leak down test will tell you exactly where to focus your attention. Perhaps it is just rusted exhaust valves/seats in the rear cylinders- which would be solved by a $300 valve job instead of a full rebuild. Don't be a parts changer, do some troubleshooting! ;) |
|
Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hey Kris maybe if your like me you might just have enough laying around to build a leakdown tester
|
|
SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Just be careful that you don't leave the breaker bar on the C/S when you turn on the air pressure. Makes a loud bang, could have been painful . . .
|
|
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
|
Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
My 82 sold on Sunday , so I was able to get the 94 into the garage, but we promptly left for a couple of days at the coast. I haven't had a Chance to do anything else except to put the boat away. I like the idea of having a leak down tester, so I may just pick one up... Gary, I am short a few components to build my own, but not many I'll report back in a few days once i'vemade progress |
|
KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Woot! Nice link! |
|
Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
|
Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
ok so here's the update
- I spent some time on the TBI this morning. The secondary's are loose. some disassembly, a can of brake cleaner, and a scrub brush have it looking presentable, although a bunch of the rust came from the throttle plates, so they look pretty rough, but I think functional. - installed the TBI, and had an ignition key made (boat came without one as it was a mechanic's lien sale) not sure how they planned on working on it without keys - had to trouble shoot the electrical system a bit... the battery side of the key goes straight to ground... problem fixed temporarily by removing the grounded lead, and adding a jumper from the hot on the battery to the battery terminal of the key, and jumping the ignition breaker which is evidently bad. - I put a little gas down the TBI, and low and behold it fired. - while I was firing the engine (gas down the throat) I did not get an indication of fuel pressure... Low pressure pump runs when 12v is applied, but I never got any fuel pressure at the TBI. any help on finding and testing the High pressure pump? - I put picked up a brass freeze plug kit, and installed the plugs in the open holes, dragged the boat out, and put the hose on it. After letting the hose run for a bit, it appears the hose backs up pressure, instead of just flowing out the exhaust. I clamped the garden hose to the outlet hose of the strainer... is this normal? - port side exhaust riser is leaking badly from the connection to the head in two places... I am assuming it's cracked but will need to pull it off to find out. I looked in the 93 manual to find how to jumper the low pump, but found no indication of how to locate or test the high pressure side. Last, since it appears that I need to fix the electrical system, does anyone have a good wiring diagram? the 94 manual doesn't show up in the reference section, and the 95 doesn't have good details on the protec system. thanks for everyone's comments and suggestions so far! |
|
KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Wow! So amazing that it fires over. Congrats.
It sounds like you need somebody with a '94 to scan the electrical diagram for you. Somebody must have one. A '93 did not have electrical fuel pumps (just a mechanical one on the engine). I'm not surprised about your water-flow test. It likely indicates that your impeller is still whole and functional. If the impeller is not spinning that would effectively be a "dam" in the system that would prevent the water from getting to the exhaust. Or are you cranking the engine and observing no water flow? Were you able to turn it with that starter that was rolling around up in the bow? I agree that the exhaust riser sounds like it is toast. |
|
Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
|
Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yes,
the starter rolling around in the bow worked great good to hear on the water flow test... water did come out the exhaust when the engine fired, but not much while the hose was on, engine not cranking. I'm thinking I'll post in the parts wanted section for a few items that I know I need now.... exhaust manifold high pressure fuel pump, or carb/mechanical fuel pump... now comes the hard part... Patience |
|
Fly100
Senior Member Joined: September-30-2009 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 126 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I have those valve covers on my 196! Are they just cosmetic or indicate some engine difference?
FLY |
|
Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I think they are cosmetic, but since my boat has the pro boss motor with gt-40 heads, it may be an ad on that came with this specific motor combination ? Not to sure
|
|
Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
To the Top :) I need to run the compression numbers again, now that I have the ability to warm up the engine for a test. I am wondering if the lack of compression on the back 2 cyls is causing my 1800 RPM vibration.... its a strong vibration, which made me think that I had a bad cylinder. I forgot that I had gone through some of the testing before, but found this old thread.... I am hoping I don't have to rebuild, but I may have to with the current situation.
|
|
Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
So here we are, 3 years after I purchased my boat, LOTS has happened in my life to keep this boat on the back burner this long, but I have dug in again with the goal to get this thing on the water this year. With the results of the shake down cruise, I have come to the realization that an overhaul/reman is really the only way to correct the issues that we are having. My wife has given her OK on spending the cash, so that is not going to be an obstacle in this case, but cost is going to play in here. long term reliability is really what I want.
Since we have come to this spot, I feel like I have 3 options, and am curious as to the perks of each one from someone else's point of view? - Reman longblock (summit racing ~ $1800) - I see this as the most sure fire way to the water, but probably sacrifices build quality and horsepower, especially since these motors come with standard heads, not the GT-40's. Cam grind is also going to be an unknown. - Teardown and rebuild my current block (local machine shop ~1500 plus parts) - I see this as the largest demand on my time, (which is really limited right now) but will have a known condition, self selected components, (and for Pete keeping it original-ish) - also, machine shop has an 8 week backlog, so this option gets us set up for next season. - Truck motor from a junk yard (~$500) - this is the lowest initial cost option, but is a complete unknown in my opinion. it would, however, get my family on the water this year. Also, aren't marine engines built with greater clearances? (might not be an issue on a motor with 100K) |
|
TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21125 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
How poorly does the engine run now?
I would keep running what you have, and pick up a roller junkyard block and rebuild that short block in parallel. Refurb the gt40 heads with springs for the roller cam when you finally do the swap, that would minimize the downtime. |
|
Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Unfortuanely, the boat has a bad "shake" vibration under load. I am pretty sure the two bad cylinders are the cause of this shake 4 and 8 being sequential in the firing order. it's bad enough that the boat doesn't run well under load. I am down until I get this repaired.
I guess I need to do a little bit more reading about roller engines. does this change my cam selection? |
|
gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Run the compression test and do a leak down before you hang it up or drop big ging.
If your not going after lots more ponies I don't feel roller is worth the money. |
|
TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21125 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I would roller all day long every day on a lefty regardless of whether big performance upgrades are desired... RH is a bit more spendy and difficult to source. Reliability is a huge plus and you'll get some performance to boot even with a conservative grind.
|
|
Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Here are my compression numbers,,, I have a leak down tester and will run that too, but I don't suspect much change based on my on water performance. |
|
GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3333 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Maybe you discern if its valves or rings.
|
|
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
|
gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Bingo could be the difference between $$$$ and $ |
|
Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Agreed, pretty sure it's rings though. I'll plug in the leak down as soon as I can and confirm before going any further, but 98% on the rings part. This motor saw some water before I got it, and it took some work to loosen up the rotating assembly.
|
|
gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
This is true but your going to add probably close the a G note to do it depending on availability of a used block or not. If you have to have the block milled for the spiders and such you'll be at that G note a lot quicker. |
|
Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
is something like this a "bolt in type deal" seems like this might be a good answer if a roller is the way to go.... Can I run the stock cam/heads set up on a roller motor from an F-250?
From Craigslist: '96 Ford Pickup 351Windsor engine (5.8 liter) 'roller cam' motor.....with 91k (actual miles!).......super clean......and it runs great!......for $600 exchange....$100 core. |
|
TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21125 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
You can, but there is no benefit of having a roller block if you don't plan to run a roller cam.
I would not expect a roller conversion to be $1k if you can source a reasonably priced block... Factory lifters and a LH roller cam are not huge $$. Not significantly more expensive than new flat tappet stuff anyways. Going tie-bar lifters would be a little more expensive. Edit... Did you mean stock heads/cam/lifters from your original (flat tappet) engine or the hardware from the running F250? I assumed you meant the former. You can run the truck roller cam if you want. It likely less than ideal but it'll work. Heads won't be gt40's though. Could be a decent short term option, then refurb your (Pcm) heads and do a cam swap this winter. |
|
Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
yes, run the truck motor as is, with my carb/DUI distributor, and then have my heads rebuilt, and add a cam down the line. Getting a short term option with a long term benefit would be a bonus for me.
|
|
gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
If you go tie bars 4-500 if you find a roller block that will still put you in the same price range as the tie bars, 2-400 for the block 2-300 rollers, bump stick 400 the block work and/or roller cams will eat up the last couple hundred I found this one for $200 still have the rollers and truck cam your welcome to for the price of the ride, used the block and spiders ***************canned the rest |
|
TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21125 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Subtract the cost of a non roller block (sell your existing) as well as the flat tappet cam/lifter cost if that would have been part of the short block/rebuild... I was talking cost delta, not total cost. EI, "how much more would it cost me to go roller?" I'd say ~$500, and worth every penny.
|
|
gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
If you can sell your junk at $0.10 on the dollar maybe Non roller Windsor block??? What's cast scrap going for these days |
|
Post Reply | Page <1234> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |