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Copper Fuel Line Replacement

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brimeg View Drop Down
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    Posted: September-16-2005 at 12:24pm
Just found this site and it is very cool!

I am working on restoring a 67 Mustang with a 302 Interceptor Engine. The gas tank seems to be in good shape so I am going to reuse. The copper line running up to the fuel pump seems to be solid I am just concerned due to age, etc.

Has anyone replaced this line before? If so, since I am going to need to add a fuel filter since the fuel pump is going to be changed out can I simply go to rubber or ? ? ? If yes on rubber do I need to worry about routing it? Currently the copper line runs next to the exhaust on the port side of the boat. Thanks for the help.

Brian
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Rick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2005 at 1:02pm
Coast Guard requres either solid of stainless braided hose for fuel in the bilge They also frown on hose clamps and want flaired connecters. You should be able to do this depending where you are. Dune buggy parts shops or racing shops should be able to provide the parts including the filter.
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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2005 at 2:11pm
Yes to the fuel filter question. An inline fuel filter is a MUST! Otherwise trash from the old tank will find its way into the carb. I am speaking from experience.

My '68 Mustang came from the previous owner with a Neoprene (or some kind of rubber) fuel line in the bilge held with hose clamps. The hose is held to the inside of the stringer with nylon ties. The hose has "Fuel Hose" printed along the side. Although I have had no problem with it, it is in the que for replacement when I resume interior restoration this winter. Braided fuel hose with flanged fittings should be an easy install. Is anyone else using Neoprene or some kind of rubber fuel hose?

(Ya'll pardon me while I climb under my desk to brace myself for the onslaught I am about to receive from 79Nautique for my non-coastguard hose.)
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2005 at 2:35pm
I replaced my tank this summer, and it had the long tappered air type brass fittings instead of just a single barb used on auto fuel lines. I think they are a lot more secure than the standard single barb fittings. I don't see how the copper fuel line could have any wear. I would pull the tank out and check for rust. The metal tanks are usually the Tempo "long cruise" which have a epoxy finish. Check the bottom to see if the finish is worn off on the ends and pull the sending unit out and look inside for rust. There should be a baffle on either side of the sending unit opening.
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brimeg View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brimeg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2005 at 3:37pm
Thanks for the info . . .

Tim D you are probably right the line is probably fine. I was just thinking with age and since I have the floor and most of the insides out of the boat it might be a good time to replace. I would prefer not to. . . but anyways.

How about the gas tank. The tank itself is in good shape. Interior there is some rust (had around 6 gallons of old gas in it). What is my best bet. . . some water and CLR left in the tank for a little bit. Flush with some other liquid or ? ? ? Leave alone. . . find a new tank?

Again, thank you for all of the help. I really appreciate it.

Since there seems to be a lot of knowledge here. . .the 67 Mustang has a blue/black carpet (almost looks like indoor/outdoor) and had blue seats. I am looking to stay as close to original as possbile. Based on pictures I have seen the carpet appears to be the original color. Any idea what color the seats should be ? (white??)

Thank you again,

Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2005 at 4:34pm
Brian, I would very much appreciate close up photos of your seat mounting hardware if the seats and mounts are original.

I pulled my tank and repainted the exterior with Biege Rustoleum. It looks almost new.

I rinsed the interior a few times with fresh gasoline. A few rust flakes fell out. I figured I would never get all of them out so I reinstalled the tank along with the clear in-line filter. No problems since. -jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2005 at 4:40pm
This thread may help you:
How to remove gas tank
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2005 at 6:07pm
I wouldn't use clr. Eastwood carries a tank coating product that is a zinc product.
Tim D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mackwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2005 at 7:30pm
When did the change to aluminum tanks come in? My 65 has what seems the orginal tank, aluminum, then steel line from tank to spin-on fuel filter (I installed filter) and rubber fuel hose from filter to fuel pump. I used brass push-on hose flare fittings. Then steel line from pump to carb.
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David F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-21-2005 at 1:07pm
My $.02: Coast Guard approved rubber fuel line is acceptable in any boat. My '77 has it, so does my '93. The USCG approved fuel line is very thick and reinforced. It is basically Aviation grade fuel such as that made by Aeroquip.

A water/fuel filter should be added just prior to the fuel pump. I mounted mine on a bracket that I made up from 1/4" steel flat stock bolted to the front of the engine via a unused mounting boss.

The rubber fuel line is generally tie-wrapped to the side of the main stringers.

My '77 Martinique has the aluminum fuel tank, so I cannot really comment on the steel tanks other than to say, pull it out and take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it out. If the tank is marginal, boiling will expose the weak spots and the shop can solder the pin holes. There are also products to line the tanks with some sort of polymer (after it is cleaned).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-21-2005 at 1:22pm
Originally posted by David F David F wrote:

pull it out and take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it out. If the tank is marginal, boiling will expose the weak spots and the shop can solder the pin holes. There are also products to line the tanks with some sort of polymer (after it is cleaned).


David is right, pull it and take it to a radiator shop. Don't try and do this yourself. I worked in a radiator shop for five years to put myself through school. We had all the right equipment, and did at least 100 of these during my tenure. Still, we had at least one ignite. Can be very dangerous.

BKH
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brimeg View Drop Down
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Thanks for all of the tips. I will keep you posted. Ran the boat for the first time today on a six gallon test tank. Looking pretty good so far.

Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote curbsidegold Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-03-2005 at 12:51am
I went through the same process a few years ago ... cleaning my tank and replacing a copper fuel line on my '49 utility.

I bought fuel line in the bulk hose section at Lowes. It is marked "fuel Line" all over it and can be bought for a few $$.

My gas tank (steel) was coated, in and out, with rust. I took to a local 'derusting' shop where they dipped it in a derusting solution. The thing came out looking brand new and only cost $50.

At this point I tried to get fancy and bought a tank sealant product from the local Harley Davidson shop. Biggest mistake I ever made. I followed the directtion to the letter, but the coating began to peel away from the inside of my tank. I spent a weekend swooshing 5 lbs of 1" galvanized roofing nails to scrap away the rest of the sealant.

I did install an inline fuel filter, picked up at a NAPA for a few dollars just in case there was any more bits of sealant floating around.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-03-2005 at 11:59am
IMHO: I would stay away from regular automotive grade rubber fuel line. Automotive fuel line certainly can handle the pressures involved, but they are relatively thin walled and thus not as abrasive or fire resistant as the aircraft or marine grade fuel hose.

Given that the fuel hose is simply tied to the side of the stringers and as such can rub against the relatively rough fiberglass surfaces, I would want an abrasion resistant line for sure. The hose is also extremely tough and thus resistant to puncturing or cuts. It has been said many times, but automotive grade equipment really has no place in a boat.
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