Added New Dash Ground to 93 with Pics

Holding my blank bus bar in front of the breaker switches for visualization:

Starting to build my positive bus bar:

Bri892001 wrote:    I also added a positive to the input side of my ignition dash breaker button. This perked up my horn a bit, and made my Perfect Pass able to start up with the blower on.

With all the wiring problems these boats have this post deserves to be kept bumped up.

How did you run the additional positive? From the 50 Amp breaker at the engine?

Here are some updates with the positive bus bar I added to the dash recently.

My text added to the picture didn't really show up. This is where I start to one at at time connect the wires to the ignition breaker output and the various other breaker, key and horn inputs. When I get them all, I then fasten to the bus bar.

spiralhelix wrote: Thought I would share my dash wiring on this dash wiring post.

Colin,
The upgrade looks great. I hope you used marine grade wire like Brian did. I also like to see heat shrink adhesive lined crimp connections. They and the marine wire really pay off in the long run.

Pete,
Thanks! Unfortunately I did not use marine wire or heat shrink ends. I understand the risk of corrosion, so I took the steps to at least soldier all the ends along with crimping. Where two wires were joined, I did soldier and heat shrink those connections (no butt splices). I am really happy knowing that if a component stops working, it could be a blown fuse before expecting the worst or having the rest of the system inoperable.

Colin

Good write up sir. Honestly, basically every boat 99 and older probably needs to have a modification like this done. While my engine is out I plan on running additional ground/power wires to the front.

Well you know what they say, You learn something new everyday! Not that I ever doubted anyone, but Pete's comment about the connectors made me think. I learned basic crimping from my father...how could he be wrong, right? So off to google and lots of reading, i read some pretty good articles. I'm posting these so there is a reference for the next person doing this so they can make an informed decision when deciding how they want to land their connections.

General Explaination of Crimping
Anatomy of a good connection
NASA Standards

My take away, i have done everything WRONG! lol Especially my theory of soldering the ends to prevent corrosion. But, thankfully, my boat is not an aircraft or spaceship and the likelihood of my connections leading to death are super duper remote. In fact, not to be morbid, but risk of death on my boat would be higher with other activities such as skiing, barefooting, or wakeboarding.

I totally get the vibration and moisture aspect of a boat leading to premature wire/terminal failure. However, seeing how the dash was wired by CC in '89 (26 years ago) and those connections are still holding true today, not using marine-adhesive lined-heat shrink connectors is not the worst idea. The worst idea is just using masking tape or super glue to make connections. If home depot connectors last 15, 10, or only 5 years is that really a bad thing if you have the capability to redo the connections (or the $$ to have someone do it)? I'm not advocating using cheap connectors, in fact, i will probably swallow hard and spend the money on the right ones. But i'd rather someone enjoy the water with inexpensive connectors then sell the boat because they can't afford marine/aircraft grade parts.

-Spiral

I have not checked Home Depot here up north but in Florida they sell the good adhesive plated connectors for a reasonable price. As soon as I get a chance I'll check them out

Hi. I'm new to the forum. I have a 93' SN and have been meaning to solve some electrical issues First I want to add a new ground to the dash. The picture shows my original ground with 3 other wires but-spliced into it. Can I just run the new ground and get rid of the old ground wire then but-splice the same 3 wires into the new ground or is there some benefit to keeping the old ground in the system? I am not great with electricity but am trying to learn.
Thanks,
Tim

Your project looks like the way to go but don't think I'm ready for that this year. Some planning over the Winter and next Spring probably. I'm going to pull the old ground so I don't have to wire it.

Bri892001 wrote: That's a perfect situation for a ground bus. Something like this: http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--minibus-100a-bus-bar--P009_273_004_008 Technically, leaving the old ground in place isn't adding anything, but it isn't hurting anything either. I left mine alone, and just added the new. The bus bar lets you tie everything together, and get good solid connections. Splicing like you show, was just kind of done for cost savings, but if you're doing new work, it's not the best way to go.

+1

The bus not only provides better connections and eliminates potential issues (aids in troubleshooting), it allows for quicker and cleaner additions to the system if need be. Just follow what Brian has laid out with increased gauge marine wire and adhesive lined heat shrink ends. With all the parts at the ready, shouldn't take more than an hour or two. If a cocktail is involved...2.5 hours

Adding a buss bar for all the dash grounds is a nice idea and if you have the time and skills I would go ahead and add one but it is really not necessary and it doesn't address the other half of the problem which is the positive side. I ran a second ground wire and positive wire from the engine to the dash and then added a single positive wire from the output of the ignition breaker to the input of the key switch. I did this about 15 years ago and haven't touched it since. Connect the second positive wire to the 50 Amp breaker on the engine.