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winterizing your nautique

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    Posted: October-13-2021 at 7:27am
Heat (as in a torch) and a 50/50 mix of acetone & transmission fluid works wonders for stuff like that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GeoB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2021 at 12:39pm
My first year with 85 SN. Followed this thread with mix of AF and 5 plug drain.

Well, 4 plugs and a drill out.

Starboard exhaust plug does not have any indication of any thread tape. Has not been serviced in 5 years. The 1/2 Square stripped after hours of soaking in liquid wrench. Pipe wrench on outside chewed but did not budge.

Just to finish I had to cut the exhaust hose off and drill the plug.

Winter project will be to pull the upper jacket and extract the remains of the plug.

Geo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2013 at 8:40pm
[QUOTE=Randy_in_Ohio]
I've been doing the pour-in method since our old friend Eric replaced my manifolds with new ones I was able to remove the drain plugs from. QUOTE]

My method would probably be better for you Randy as it doesn't require the use of any tools other than a nutdriver.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Randy_in_Ohio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2013 at 6:02pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Geez Paul, just 19 easy steps? I think I'd be done with my winterization process and have drank a beer before you were finished duct taping the PVC to your exhaust.


I was thinking the same thing Tim... and he doesn't even start drinking beer until the 7th step!

I still haven't winterized... been so damn busy and the weather hasn't cooperated on the weekends I've had time... the sad part is I haven't even used the boat since August got to get this done this week...

I've been doing the pour-in method since our old friend Eric replaced my manifolds with new ones I was able to remove the drain plugs from. I don't see any reason to make it more complicated than it needs to be.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2013 at 5:09pm
Paul, if you simply run the shower pump that will essentially drain the port side of the block and also any water upstream from where the cold side of the shower connects, I usually get a 1/2 gallon or more out this way. Following you theme it also does not require any tools.

I will usually see at least another Gallon via the heater, jtube and manifolds. Like your method, the only thing I would do different is drain all the points, plus that should get you another beer!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 11:24pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

I'm starting to like JBears method better all the time


yeah..just realized its been 9 winters since I had to do this.

winter-i-zation for us means breaking out the heater shirts to put on under the footing suits.

miss lots of stuff from Ohio...but not winter!

we are always open for winter visits guys..just bring your footin' gear.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 10:55pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:


14)     Turn off motor, start oil draining – drink another beer or two while oil drains
15)     when drained add new oil and filter


15.5) Forgot to put the plug back in the oil drain....clean shop floor

Damn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 10:38pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:


14)     Turn off motor, start oil draining – drink another beer or two while oil drains
15)     when drained add new oil and filter


15.5) Forgot to put the plug back in the oil drain....clean shop floor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 9:10pm
I'm starting to like JBears method better all the time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 7:20pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Paul, I like all the steps where you drink beer!! We winterize at the shop in a similar method. We order 55 gallon drums of -200 degree diluteable antifreeze. We have two cement pits with a pump that feeds both boats at low pressure high volume. We add antifreeze until the mixture coming from the exhaust reads -50 degrees on the refractometer. Of course with the boat at operating temperature thermostat open.

Unfortunately no beer to go along with this process at work.


Graham put those plugs back in with some antiseize. Tim covered this on Planet Nautique but the threads in the block and manifolds will rust and almost be gone come spring time if you leave the plugs out. I did that one year whoops.

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Of course, I never thought of that. Thanks Zach
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 7:20pm
Zach I feel it's a good way to make sure the A/F gets through all the systems, warms the oil and takes almost no tools at all.
Like I said above it looks like a long list but you actually spend more time drinking beer and watching it run than wrenching.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 6:59pm
Paul, I like all the steps where you drink beer!! We winterize at the shop in a similar method. We order 55 gallon drums of -200 degree diluteable antifreeze. We have two cement pits with a pump that feeds both boats at low pressure high volume. We add antifreeze until the mixture coming from the exhaust reads -50 degrees on the refractometer. Of course with the boat at operating temperature thermostat open.

Unfortunately no beer to go along with this process at work.


Graham put those plugs back in with some antiseize. Tim covered this on Planet Nautique but the threads in the block and manifolds will rust and almost be gone come spring time if you leave the plugs out. I did that one year whoops.

Hw, you are a wizard with Microsoft Paint.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 5:35pm
Yea it looks like a long list but it doesn't even take an hour depending on how long you wait on the oil to drain.
Plus I have all the pipe ready from the year before. The explaination on the pipe was for anyone doing it for the first time.
I don’t drain the starboard side block because my shower is plumbed to that.
What I did mix up is that when I get out of the boat that is when I slide the exhaust bucket under the pipe by then it has chugged out most of the water and is starting to dump out mostly the A/F.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 5:26pm
Geez Paul, just 19 easy steps? I think I'd be done with my winterization process and have drank a beer before you were finished duct taping the PVC to your exhaust.

Do you not drain the water from your manifolds, circ pump hose or the starboard side of the block? Seems like you'd be diluting your A/F if not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 4:57pm
Ok guy’s after reading every conceivable way to winterize (and trying several) I thought I’d share how I do mine which I find the easiest for me at least since my ’95 has a shower, heater and drip less shaft.
First I start with 8 gal antifreeze (before someone squawks about the amount, you will end up with around 3 gal reclaimed + it only costs 3 bucks a gallon which is peanuts compared to the other costs of owning a boat)
First remove plug in port side block to drain block (this is to help keep the A/F from being watered down) While the block is draining do the following.
1)     Remove platform
2)      Remove exhaust flapper
3)     Insert 4”schedule 40 pipe with several wraps of duct tape( to acquire a snug fit in exhaust port) and elbow in exhaust
4)     Pour 3 gallon A/F in bucket below exhaust
5)     Disconnect strainer and attach 10’ - 1” pool hose
6)     Pour about a gallon in the pool hose while holding above the motor height. Pour another three gallon A/F into the second bucket in the boat. Put weighted end of pool hose in bucket
7)     Reinstall port block plug, - Take a drink of beer
8)     Start boat, take bucket from in boat to the exhaust, and put hose in exhaust bucket pour remaining A/F into exhaust bucket.
9)     While outside of boat check drip less is running A/F out, then clamp drip less line.
10)     Watch temp - Drink more beer
11)     As temp raises run shower till A/F is seen then shut off – drink more beer
12)     Once temp approaches operating temp run heater check for heat yes = good circulation of A/F through core – drink more beer
13)     Run at operating temp a while you finish your beer
14)     Turn off motor, start oil draining – drink another beer or two while oil drains
15)     when drained add new oil and filter
16)     start motor run fresh oil through motor
17)     turn off motor
18)     unclamp drip less line, disconnect pool hose empty strainer and reconnect
19)     remove impeller, loosen belts

Done …time to drink more beer







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 4:25pm
Did mine this evening 10 minute job
Just need to make sure I put these somewhere safe!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2013 at 11:03pm
With a freshwater motor I would not worry about corrosion,just think of all the saltwater boats out there,you never get that out and the engines last a long time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldscool Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2013 at 10:56pm
I read this thread and found that I'm in the minority of the lazy suckers. The methods posted are the correct way to do it for sure. Not sure about leaving the block empty all winter as I feel the air and residual moisture will certainly increase corrosion. My twenty year method has been oils, fill tank, stabilizer, run to temp, 6 gallons straight antifreeze, catch pail behind boat, suck it through, mystery oil down the carb, give the catch pail to the son-in-law for his jeep. Doing things the right way is important, and draining and using rv antifreeze would lower my cost by at least $30.00, so maybe next year I'll go by the book.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2013 at 3:43pm
Thanks folks, on that basis I don't think I'll bother with the antifreeze it doesn't get ridiculously cold over these parts
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2013 at 12:17pm
If you're going to add anti freeze, a good amount should be added as it doesn't take much water to dilute -50 RV to a point where it might do more harm that good. If you only add a 1/2 gallon and there's a cup or a pint of water in the engine, you could make the situation worse. I usually add a half gallon to the engine, then drain it out to hopefully purge any remaining water, and then add 2.5 gallons which fills the block and exhaust manifolds. This year I then drained the 2.5 gallons out and left the plugs out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2013 at 11:47am
Graham,
I agree with Gary that the drain only has been used for years and is still used by many - even marinas! I too did the same for many years. The anti is, as Gary says, just cheap insurance. I store my boats in northern Wisconsin where it can get down to -30F so, I now do add about a gal of anti to each engine (the 4 will only take a bout 1/2 gal,!!)


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2013 at 8:46am
Correct Graham. But some like to add it,I have seen RV antifreeze here recently for under $2,cheap insurance after all. After you have pulled all the drains you can put them back in by hand and using the hose Hollywood has labeled in green,pour it in. Then you can pull the plugs again and enough will be left in in to protect. I don't think it gets as cold where you are,sometimes here in the Chicago area it can get to -0F for awhile!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2013 at 8:20am
Stupid question, im sure covered numerous times before..
If I pull all drain plugs disconnect trans cooler pipe and remove the rwp impellor - do I still need to bother with anti freeze??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don5432 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2013 at 2:01am
Well here goes TOTAL HERESY ! I leave my 1986 Nautique on the shore station all winter with only a boat cover and the shore station vinyl cover for protection in our cold snowy Missouri winters. For the past 26 years I have winterized my boat as follows. 1. Fill gas tank with straight gas (no ethenol in it) 2. Add Red Stabil 3. Run the boat up to normal temperature doing turns with boat to mix gas & stabil. 4. Turn off engine and raise boat on lift. 5. Clean Strainer basket. 6. Disconnect water intake hose and put in 5 gal pail with 3 gal of pink RV/Marine anti freeze. 6. Start engine at idle and begin spraying Stabil Brand fogging oil into carb. flame arrestor. When bucket is almost empty of pink AF turn off motor. 7. Reconnect water intake hose. Once on lift I timed it and I completed whole process in 10 minutes. It's SO EASY and 26 frigid winters proves that it works. Can do same thing on trailer if just pulled boat from lake. 8. Lastly I disconnect battery and put on charger in garage set on max 3 amps for whole winter. Batteries have been lasting about 6 years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote td_in_nc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2012 at 5:49pm
Thank you! The pictures really cleared this up for me.
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AAM196
Thanks, it is the GT40. I want the wrench size. I think it is 1" but not sure. Used a pipe wrench on one side but couldn't get the other side. Wanted to buy an open ended wrench for this.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AAM196 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2012 at 5:00pm

What kind of engine in your 99Air? GT-40? when you say wat size are you asking for wrench size or thread size to replace? I used big cresent wrench as I didn't have a big enough open end with me.

Hollywood:
yeah... I wasn't sure if I had to open thermostat or not since I wasn't going to change oil but I really want to run for two reasons:
1) I just did a muffler repair... the front section baffle supports to top and buttom of muffler were loose and rattled... I used some JB weld marine epoxy to repair w/o having to cut open and wanted to hear it... It seems to have worked fingers crossed!
2)since I doubled the amount of sta-bil in fuel, I wanted to make sure it made it through lines and injectors.

Really my boats are always in semi-heated garages anyway...



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2012 at 4:47pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Originally posted by AAM196 AAM196 wrote:

2)I ran engine off hose till up to temp.


You don't have to do this.


Despite doing this for 16 years, and reading all 147 billion threads about it, this one still confuses me. If I don't have to have the t-stat warm and open to pour (or pump? AF through, then why does Tim say the following

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:


In most simple cooling systems, there are 2 basic paths fluid takes through the motor. They are:

1. RWP-->thermostat housing-->circ pump-->block-->heads-->intake-->thermostat housing-->exhaust manifolds-->out the back of the boat

2. RWP-->thermostat housing-->exhaust manifolds-->out the back of the boat

The thermostat controls the flow out of the engine. If the thermostat is open, water will follow path #1. If the thermostat is closed, fluid will follow path #2.


If it's closed and follows path 2, how is it getting into the block? Is the path different between pouring and pumping? That's the first time I've heard that t-stats control flow out of the engine vs into it, is that why it works? Block fills up even if t-stat is closed?
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