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leaf spring

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beachdude24 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beachdude24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2008 at 9:43pm
we fixed the trailer today and everything when good we didn't put the boat back on the trailer yet that will happen tomorow morning here are some pictures.

Before





lifting process








after


Living the Salt Life...Life is better in Aruba
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2008 at 10:30pm
k.o. and 24,
We all hope that this "fix" will work out for you. None of us have been very excited about the idea.

BTW, what's wrong with your bow lifting eye? Is it rusted out too?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2008 at 10:36pm
Pete, you beat me to it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beachdude24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2008 at 10:36pm
no the lifting eye is not rusted the lifting ring has smal crack in the gellcoat it came so from the states so we didnt risk it to pull the boat up from the lifting ring
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2008 at 11:20pm
Originally posted by beachdude24 beachdude24 wrote:

no the lifting eye is not rusted the lifting ring has smal crack in the gellcoat it came so from the states so we didnt risk it to pull the boat up from the lifting ring


A gel crack in the deck next to the lifting eye??? Do you understand that the lifting eye is attached to the keel/stem and not the deck? By lifting from the bow eye you are certainly taking a risk!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote k.o. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2008 at 3:04am
pete we do know how the lifting ring is atteched. i told him doit from the ring he said he would rather pull it from the eye since he doesn't trust the ring. he should now what's he's doing since it isn't the first time he done it this way neither the first boat he lifted and beside once it's on the forklift it's his responsiblilty.
tomorow we'll finish painting thes suport with anti rust paint and hope for the best.

i'm not to happy about the step we've taken. i just can't order any springs at the moment so as soon as i have it i'll put them on. or as HW stated above a new axle

altough i think everyone was against our desicion and plan thnx for looking and giving us advice even if we didn't do the best thing.
thnx
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2008 at 9:12am
The lifting ring is actually attached to the the bow eye on the 2001 by a piece of stainless threaded rod through bolted to a some stainless steel plate that is glassed into the bottom of the hull. The bow eye then bolts through this plate from below. I know this as I spent a couple of hours under the bow of my 89 today. Lifting by bow eye would be better as it would not have distorted the rub rail like the strap through the bow eye has.

I'm a bit like Pete not so sure of the trailer mod but it will possibly be ok over very short distance with a much reduced speed I would tend to half that 40klm/hr.

I hope you ended up doing both sides because if one spring is that bad the other wont be far behind.
If you're going through hell, keep going

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote k.o. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2008 at 11:17am
lewy both side has been removed. the other one was ready to break also.
the pictures didn't upload well i have pics of both side and how the other side was but i don't now why it didn't upload
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote h20loo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2008 at 5:41pm
KO - that looks OK for a storage trailer and hopefully you don't run over any potholes in the yard. That 9th picture looks like you have a couple Canadians down there judging by the lack of tan on those legs!!! I get more color than that snow skiing-How does someone in Aruba miss the sun?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote k.o. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-15-2008 at 12:51am
haha thats my "father in law" haha you now after almost 2years with his daughter it's the 1st time i saw him in shorts. haha i've invited him to go skiing with us so he can get a tan.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote k.o. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2017 at 1:06pm
Hey guys back after loooong time

For those wondering of this fix haha it lasted for nearly 10 years

It only took 2 bearing change in that period.
It would of lasted more but the damn trailer rusted and broke near the hitch

So now we made a new trailer but running leaf spring again haha
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCATW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2017 at 1:12pm
I ran across this post searching for leaf springs... pretty amazing "fix"!

I'm new to this forum and not sure this is appropriate under this post, but I'm looking for information on replacement leaf springs for the model / year trailer depicted in this post. So here goes...

I recently acquired mid 80's CC trailer (w/ diamond metal side boards like this post) for my 2001 SN (1989). Among many other things, the springs are badly rusted and I'm a bit fearful of failure. I'm finding out that these springs are no longer available but I'm trying to determine what size they were and if I want to order a custom set (likely $$$, ugh) or another option. The length I'm pretty sure is 30" based on the brackets with a load rating of 1750/axle (based on bearing/axle measurements). But I'm unsure of the width. Does anyone recall if the springs on this trailer were 1 3/4" inch wide or 2"? The bracket inside widths are a little over 2" wide implying a 2" spring.   The current springs on this trailer is 1 3/4" and the brackets are bent slightly where the shackle bolts pulled them in... there were some spacers added but didn't fill the gaps all the way. I doubt this was a CC install, but likely done later down the road although the remaining paint remnants appear original like the trailer.

Another lower cost option I'm considering is replacing with an available 30" x 1 3/4" 2500lb capacity (per axle) spring. But I will likely need to replace the brackets to conform to 1 3/4" width or find some type of spacer that would suffice... I'm concerned with the angled brackets. Also the current shackle bolts are 1/2" with the the threads riding on one side of the bracket (shank too short). The new springs all seems to have 9/16" shackle bolts. The 2500 lb capacity also raises a few issues of increased load on the tires and bearings but certainly can't be any worse than welding the axle to the trailer.

Any advice / info greatly appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2017 at 1:31pm
30" x 1.75" springs are correct. The 2500lb versions are appropriate for a 2001.

Cc used "hat" bushings. Eastern marine sells some, they are 1/2" ID and need to be drilled out to 9/16" but are otherwise a perfect fit. They replace the sleeve bushings that come in the springs. Or, you can buy some 9/16" x ~1.25" OD bushings and cut them into ~1/8" slices to use them as face bushings between the springs and hangers. I have done both.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCATW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2017 at 4:30pm
Thanks, just the advice I was looking for! I found nylon hat bushing on east marine site that seems to fit your description... is this the one you're referring to? Nylon right?

Details
Inside Diameter: 1/2 in.
Outside Diameter: .875 in. x Top Diam.= 1-1/16"
Length: 9/16 in.
Finish: Nylon

There's also this kit but the 3" bolt is going to run a tad short based on my shackle measurements... the cc bolt is 3 1/2".

The Loadrite Equalizer Bolt and Busing kit contains: (1) plated shackle bolt 9/16" x3 ", (1) 9/16"-18 lock nut and (2) nylon hat style equalizer bushings.

Again... appreciate the help! This along with full hardware replacement, frame welding to strengthen all the rusted areas, and sandblast and prime and paint is adding up to nearly a new trailer... but this trailer will be an original for what that's worth. It's becoming a learning experience for sure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2017 at 5:09pm
Yes, nylon. They're the only leaf spring hat bushings I've seen anyone carry.

You're correct that you need 3.5" shackle bolts (3" won't reach). Etrailer and eastern marine carry them. I usually replace the shackles rather than trying to reuse the old ones as they are very inexpensive.

If you're replacing spring u-bolts, Stengel bros is the only place that I've seen that carries what you need... but their prices are pretty reasonable.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCATW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2017 at 1:00pm
I found the U bolts on Stengel and also located some on other sites that are galvanized (need to confirm strength) that might also work. Re the recommendation to replace the shackles, are you referring to the shackle bolts or the shackle mounts that'd have to be welded? I'm little unsure of terminology to use on this stuff. Also, would galvanized option again be best way to go on the bolts?

Finally (I hope), what's your recommendations on boring all the holes to 9/16" vs getting 1/2" bushings to go into the new springs? All my hardware right now is 1/2" of course but guessing 9/16" is stronger although maybe little more labor way to go. I'd also have to figure out the upper aft bushing replacement.

Thanks again...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2017 at 1:17pm
I am surprised you have 1/2" hardware. What year trailer? I would replace the bolts while you are in there, I have had one break (no fun at all). I am not sure that 1/2" x 3.5" shackle bolts are available anywhere. I always step up to 9/16" hardware.

When I say shackle, I mean the shackle links used at the rear end of the spring assembly to connect to the hangers (often available for under $1 each).

Galvanized is overkill IMO... unless you're dunking in salt I wouldn't bother.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCATW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2017 at 5:53pm
Ok, the links, got it. I found some 1/2" shackle bolts on one of the websites along with the conversion bushings... but I'm thinking 9/16" as you say can't hurt. Getting new links w/ 9/16" holes will also save me 8 holes to bore out leaving me only 4 to worry with. But I'll have to dig a little deeper into the bushing replacement for the aft upper fixed shackle mount that the links hook to. As for galvanized, I'm not planning any salt water... trailers stored in the garage anyway, shouldn't be any issues on my watch for some time. Once again, appreciate the help!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2017 at 6:43pm
The hat bushings used throughout the suspension shouldninstall directly in the upper rear hanger as well. Just have to drill out the bushings to 9/16".

Post a link to the 1/2" x 3.5" shackle bolts if you don't mind.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCATW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2017 at 12:32pm
Here's more than you likely asked for but should help to fill in a few details in case anyone has an interest...

Re the shackle bolts in general, in addition to various sizes, I've noted variations in thread length, whether they are flutted or not, material/finish, and grade. Seems to me it'd be best if the shank rides in the shackle bolt holes but some of these appear to have shorter shanks from the pictures. My current bolts (1/2" no grade marks I can see) ride on the threads on one end and apparently haven't failed for nearly 30 years... so maybe not an issue. Higher strength also seems a good idea... the links below are higher strength bolts (grade 5 or 8 or 593C stainless).

Sturdy Built trailer parts carries the 1/2" x 3.5" shackle bolts. The web site calls them leaf spring mounting bolts.

Here’s 1/2”x3.5” mounting bolt grade 5 zinc plated.
http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Leaf-Spring-Mounting-Bolt-12-inch-x-3-12-inch-Zinc-Plated_p_431.html

Here's 1/2"x3.5" stainless 593c   
http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Leaf-Spring-Mounting-Bolt-12-inch-x-3-12-inch-Stainless-Steel_p_430.html

I also found a set of 1/2" x 3/5" bolts at Stengelbros grade 8 (these are automotive application I think, hence higher grade, likely overkill):

http://www.stengelbros.net/334-176-HEN-30970-1-BOLT-ASSEMBLY-12-x-3-12-Bolt-with-nut-and-washers_p_1013.html

As for the 9/16" variety, Agri Supply carries longer shanked flutted bolts but they don't indicate the strength, I'd guess grade 5.

http://www.agrisupply.com/leaf-spring-shackle-bolts/p/28987/

I mentioned bushings that would "convert" the 9/16" springs to 1/2", Sturdy Built carries theses but not sure of the OD required for the leaf springs.

http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Trailer-Leaf-Spring-Bushing-12-inch-ID-1116-inch-OD-_p_896.html

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCATW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2017 at 9:01pm
Need some advice on axle alignment. I'm noting the tires are toed outward toward the front. I realized this when checking the aft bushings and links noting that the springs seem out of alignment a small amount. The springs are angled inward going aft such that the aft links are about 1/4" to 1/2" inside the aft shackle mounts (the links angle inward as they go down from the mount to the spring). The axle is not visibly bent or damaged but holding a straight edge is appears slightly bowed. I can probably live with this but looking for any advice or if anyone else has noted something of this nature.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fgroce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2017 at 9:22pm
If your tires are toed out in the front it will wear out the inside edge of the tires. Depending on how far you tow it may be best to just let it be. Have you already replaced the seals and repacked the bearings on the axle? No play in bearings.   We had a trailer once that was toed out a little and wore out the inside tread, but we only went about 20 miles round trip and the tires would age out before they wore out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCATW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2017 at 10:54am
Thanks... I repacked the bearings and they looked fine, no play. But I haven't driven the trailer enough to tell if the wear will be an issue or not... but then again I don't plan to put much mileage on the trailer either. My larger concern was the shackle misalignment but apparently the trailer's been this way for some time before I got it, so it'll likely be fine and not worth worrying over.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCATW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2017 at 1:42pm
Re my shackle links, I'm running into some problems finding the right size. The only 4" on center links I can find out of 1/4" plate have 1/2" holes. They are $9 / plate, a bit pricey but if I used the 1/2" shackle bolts would save me having to ream out the old links to 9/16". That'd lower the cost but not yet certain how much effort the reaming will take. But since the front 1/2" hole mounts are elongated (almost to 9/16"), I'm planning to ream these vs welding on new mounts. I'm not yet certain if the shackle bolt hole should be reamed to 19/32" or 39"/64" yet or if it really matters much w/ the fluted bolts.

I can however find 3 1/8" on center links but even with the new springs, I'm concerned it may change up the setup too much.

Any advice on the above appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2017 at 2:24pm
You should be ok with the slightly shorter links. I know I went a bit shorter when I did my 88. I got the longest 9/16" links that eastern/etrailer sold.
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Thanks... that's good to know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCATW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2017 at 7:34pm
I'm going be reaming my 1/2" bushings and my forward shackle mounts to 9/16". Should I ream these to 9/16" or slightly larger to say 19/32"? The shackle bolts are fluted for tight fit but I'm not sure how tight the 19/16" bolt will be if the holes are reamed to an exact 9/16". Maybe overthinking all this but was trying to determine which reamer bit size to select.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCATW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2017 at 7:37pm
Follow-up on install. Per advice, I moved all the shackle bolts/holes up to 9/16" and it worked out very well. I found a 9/16" Drillco Nitro reamer bit on Amazon, just ran it in/out with slight wobble action so the bolts went in smoothly and not too tight. The 19/32" reamer would have created a bit too much play.   The 2500lb capacity 30" springs came from Agri Supply with slightly higher rise. (Couldn't find 30" 1750 springs.) I used the 1/2" ID Hat bushing from eastern marine reamed to 9/16", also worked out good. (The .825" inner OD fit into the springs with slight play and tightly into the trailer shackle mount. But overall they worked out well.) I ended up using 3-1/2" l x 9'/16" d hole shackle links from e-trailer (vs 4") and that coupled with the stiffer slightly higher rise springs worked well. The 1/2"d x 2-1/16" x 3-7/8" square grade 5 axle Ubolts came from Strengel Brothers. The axle mounting plate holes were a little narrower than the U bolts so I had to elongate the holes slightly, but they eventually went in well and matched nicely with the 2"x3" hole spaced lower mounting plate from eTrailer. I'm pleased with the outcome and really appreciate all the advice and help! Now to complete the rest of the trailer refurb...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OldSchoolBlue84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2017 at 11:17pm
Greet job! If you have s chance, could you post a pic or two? Thinking about doing the same. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCATW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-15-2017 at 3:47pm
Here's a few pictures to give an idea. You'll probably note there's a bit more to this project left to go than the shackles :) FYI, all the old metal step plates were removed due to extensive rust damage along the main beams. They are being replaced by angle iron and composite panels / carpet.

Before w/ old nuts/washers removed

Upper plate w/ holes elongated, cleaned and painted

Hat bushing in the upper aft mount.

Rear shot of install

Ubolts thru upper mount and lower plate

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