engine starts without turning key

We have a 1980 Ski Nautique with a 351 cleveland. It was winterized and today we brought it home to get ready for the lake tomorrow. Engine started once. It would not start again, we took the battery down to Sears where we bought it, they said it was DEAD. Bought a new battery, the boat would not start, all it did was click, click, click. Took the starter in to be tested, it was DEAD. Hook up the new battery, and the boat turns over and continues to try and turn over without me turning the key on. If I just touch the cables to the terminal the boat starts to turnover and keeps turning over until I disconnect the cable. I have looked at the ignigition switch and it appears to be fine. Also, in all the times it keeps turning over, the engine never started up. Any ideas? I am out of my own.

Thanks for the reply. While I was writing the forum, he was taking that off, he said there isin't anything else so he's off to buy a new one. We'll see. And..no it's not a Windsor, it is a Cleveland. Thanks again.

Before you go buying parts and replacing something that may not be needed, I recommend you get a volt/ohm meter and do some checking. The small terminals on the starter solenoid are the 12 volts supply to it's coil. When it gets 12 volts, the solenoid closes the big contacts and sends power via the big wires to the starter. Power for the coil comes from the ignition switch . Check the small terminals on the solenoid for 12 volts. If you have power there, then you have a bad ignition switch.

A Cleveland ? Why do you say that???

Sounds to me like the solenoid is wired wrong. Hows this for a picture,
Removed the starter with cable attached, removed stud at the solenoid.....
Replaced starter, installed cable to starter, installed starter cable to the battery side of the solenoid.
Re Read his post , sure sounds plausible.............Boat dr

toolman do you have 2 big fat wires on one terminal, if so change . Starter cable on one side and battery on the other.
And NO THAT IS NOT A CLEVELAND..............

Toolman now that is cleared up, what about the cables????????? boat dr

8122pbrainard wrote: Before you go buying parts and replacing something that may not be needed, I recommend you get a volt/ohm meter and do some checking.

In your earlier post, you mentioned "he" was removing the solenoid inferring someone else is working on the boat. Hopefully, this isn't the same guy that told you it was a Cleveland!!!

Do you have a volt/ohm meter?
Do you have a wiring diagram?
How well can the person working on the boat read the diagram and can he use a meter?
Even a small 12 volt test light will help.

FWIW - I once had a chevy that displayed this same exact symptom. Not sure if Ford starters are constructed in a like manner, but I thought I would share my root cause anyway. It turned out to be that a snap ring was left off the engaging collar & it would bind with the solenoid in the contacting position. So maybe it could be the starter itself?

Ok, here is what he said to tell you guys...If he takes a screw driver and touches the two main terminals on the solenoid, the engine cranks over very strong. Also..
He connected the nuetral switch wires together to bypass the nuetral switch incase that was the problem and still the engine didn't start. Also, there is a ceramic stone part right above the solenoid that has two terminals coming off of it and when the key is off that part gets hot. Does any of this tell anybody anything? I am looking in the manual and don't see any wiring diagrams.

I am dealing with a solenoid problem myself. I have the feeling the replacement solenoid was bad. It is possible, the one I received for Skidim this week was bad, but mine was stuck in the engaged position, so it crank without the turning the key (like in your first post).

If the motor cranks using the screwdriver method it is probably still your solenoid. Let me know if you need any of the solenoid wiring info.

8122pbrainard - I replaced the ignition switch. Also, can the solenoid be ANY solenoid or does it have to be a marine solenoid? If so, what is the difference? The one I used is a basic four post.

Keep the battery disconnected and check the continuity of the main contacts on the solenoid (across the big terminals) Use the ohm meter set to ohms and if you get a reading then contacts are welded together. This would be from the load (starter) and not wiring it wrong nor using a automotive solenoid. Who checked the starter???? Was it someone at a place like Auto Zone? The starer solenoid is nothing more than a heavy duty relay. Marine and auto work the same way.

Yes, it is the stand alone "solenoid" that we are talking about. For some reason, over the years, the term solenoid has been used. It is actually a starter relay. You will see it referred to a relay as well. The solenoid/relay is what the ignition switch turns on.

The solenoid on the starter is what engages the starters gear into the flywheel gear. (ring gear)

I had the same problem. Solenoid stuck in the closed position causing the starter to run on. Insufficiant voltage from the ignition switch wouldn't engage the solonoid fast enough and caused the contacts to "weld" in the closed position.
Do this:
1.Disconnect the battery cable from the solenoid to the starter and reconnect your battery.
2.Take a volt reading at the starter terminal at the solenoid. Should be 0 volts. If your getting 12 volts, your solenoid is stuck closed. Tap on the solenoid to see if you can clear the 12 volts. If you can't, replace the solenoid, but don't try to start your engine yet as you may burn up your new sonenoid.
3.Have someone hold the key in the "start" position. Take a voltage reading at the ignition switch start terminal at the solenoid itself. This is the small terminal with the wire that comes from your ignition switch, through the transmission safety switch then to your solenoid. Should be close to 12 volts. If it's 8 or 9 volts or less, you have a bad or corroded connection in the path between the battery and solenoid. Possibly at the circuit breakers behind the dash, ignition(start) switch or wiring harness. Note: Don't hold the switch in the "start" position very long. This is a momentary relay and will overheat and burn up if left engaged too long.
I found my bad connection where hot wire from the engine wiring harness connects to the dash circuit breaker. Looks like it had overheated at one time from some type of overload from the P.O. Replaced the terminal, cleaned the breaker connection and was good to go.

Have the starter checked again. NOT at Checker!! Seen if you can find a shop that rebuilds alternators ans starters. They are usually listed under "auto - electric". If you can't find one, try another parts house like Napa.

Edit: If the solenoid was stuck, you will want to get a new one but you could also take it with you to have it checked too.

Toolman5,
You mentioned earlier that:

"Turned the key and it started to turn over, turned it off and on a couple times and it was fine. I turned on the water to start the engine and it cranked over several times but would engine would not start. I turned the key off and it continued to crank over until I un hooked the battery."

When you checked for the 12v at the solenoid with the ignition switch in the Start position, you did try this multiple times ??
From the earlier post, it could be an intermittent issue with possible low voltage.

Need to get this sticking solenoid issue corrected 1st. But then the not starting may just be no fuel.
When my 351 sits for a while, I will pour a small amount of fuel directly in the carb and then crank it over, usually fires and then I know is it just in need of fuel. (By small amount of fuel, I am talking a couple tablespoons)