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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2007 at 1:14pm
if you hit something that hard a bent shaft is inevitable, i would pull the shaft also and have it checked
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2007 at 12:44pm
What's the best way to determine if I have a problem with the prop shaft (bent)? I'll be pulling my boat out of storage this weekend and I know I have some issues. At the very least, I'll take my prop off and have that fixed locally. I'm also pretty sure I'll have some alignment issues as it takes both hands to rotate the prop. How can I then tell if I have a third issue with the shaft? The boat's been this way since I purchased it last year, but I also hit a rock hard enough to see the back end of the boat lift up. Thanks!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2007 at 11:45am
Steve, you can tell if the resistance is the propshaft packing by taking off the hose clamps and sliding the whole packing assembly up the shaft a couple of inches. Then this wont be part of the equation. Then if you take a couple ore minutes and remove the four bolts hlolding the shaft to the trans you cann determine really quick how well you are aligned. It takes longer to remove all of the interior than it does to check all of this. Actually alinging it as Eric said could take a while. Took me about an hour of nudging this way and that. Thats not counting removing the interior and dissasembling everything and doing the reverse. I didnt have a helper so I was in and out of the boat a hundred times. Get a helper.
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2007 at 10:15am
it should be number one on the list
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2007 at 9:15am
Ok I will put it on the "to do" list. This damn thing keeps getting longer but it's almost time to SKI.
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2007 at 8:48am
Hollywood, check it, if its out you'll be surprised how much better your boat will perform, when you spin it it should spin at the consistancy as if your prop shaft was not hooked up. if your .010 out imagine the load your creating to the ass end of the trans
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2007 at 5:41pm
Should be using shim tabs to shim the strut, I would think washers would be way to big.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2007 at 5:30pm
Are you going to shim the strut w/ washers? What else would you do to adjust the strut?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2007 at 5:28pm
I had to use two hands to turn mine before, now I can turn it with one strong finger. In fact, if I flick it it almost spins another quater turn upon release. I could have made it spin even easier but the propshaft started getting close to the log. I am thinking its O.K. that its a tad off center. I might need to adjust my strut.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2007 at 3:47pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

like its been well foreplayed... of coarse the cutlass bearing needs to be lubed, sometimes the rubber causes tightness but it turns pretty easy.


That doesn't really help. I have to 2 hand the prop (dry) to get it to turn. It certainly will not move with the flick of a finger.
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2007 at 3:23pm
like its been well foreplayed... of coarse the cutlass bearing needs to be lubed, sometimes the rubber causes tightness but it turns pretty easy.

alignment really is a crucial part of maintanance, it is as important as changing oil and include as a routine as if you were changing oil. Its funny how the transmission always is overlooked ill ask a guy about changing oil and he'll tell me yeah 2 times a season.....on the motor, what about the trans? he'll say he didnt think he had too
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2007 at 2:10pm
How easy should it be to turn your prop and shaft ?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2007 at 1:03pm
Thanks to this post I realligned my boat this past weekend. I thought the prop was hard to turn so I wanted to investigate. Sure enough, as soon as I detached the propshaft it was obvious that it spun easier when it was about 1/4" higher and 1/8" to the right. I moved the motor up and over and use paper as a feeler guage. I used a dial caliper and the paper was between .003 - .004. I played with it for about an hour and got it to where I pretty much couldnt get the paper in between the propshaft and transmission flanges anywhere around the whole circumference. Id say its within .003 is that close enough. Also, my shaft is now not perfectly centered in the log. It doesnt look like it will rub or anything. I have about an 1/8" clearance, but the prop spins much easier now. Is that O.K. ?????
Thanks for this post Eric, very helpful.
P.S. all my motor mounts were kinda loose, you guys should all at least check that. If they are loose you could be out of alignment.
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2007 at 8:41am
once a year is plenty, unless you hit something
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Gary S View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2007 at 7:28pm
I thought mine ran smoother when I did it,but that might be like taking a sugar pill,it can't hurt.I can't imagine checking it every time it's lifted,my lift uses cables and straps, no bunks.
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2007 at 7:04pm
he may have the packing a touch to tight, but still check the alignment, if its out and then corrected the boat will run much better, people will call me on the phone all the time and i will try explaining and i think i lose some after the first word... pictures tell a thousand stories
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2007 at 5:07pm
Eric, Those type of pics and instruction are great for us newbie CC owners. I will check my alignment this weekend. When I bought my 85BFN in December, I noticed that the prop/shaft turned harder than I thought it should. It turns consistantly hard all the way around. The previous owner said that he just repacked the shaft. Does that make sense? Is there anything else I should check in regards to the shaft.
Again, thanks for the schooling.
Steve
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2007 at 5:54pm
Eric thanks for the helpful reminders about alignment. The pics were worth a thousand words. Boat looks great also.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2007 at 5:02pm
might wanna start disconnecting hoses look up inside..i heard that small pieces will eventually burn up, again i was told this.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2007 at 4:57pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

If you can't even check your own impeller how you gonna check your alignment!!!


I still looking for the magical raw water flushing chemical that will disolve missing impeller blades that are stuck somewhere in my motor.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2007 at 4:41pm
never knew that and have never check it..i guess i might give it a shot seeing how for some reason i have some feeler gauges lying around here somewhere..
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2007 at 4:15pm
perfect scenario is to check it in the water if you can, these boats are very short and rigid and you can get by on the trailer, its the 25 footers and up that should always be checked in the water, any time you strike an object it is a goood idea to check the alignment, i would add it to the spring list of checking it once a year. boats with rotted stringers should be checked more often if that problem is not fixed. if you do decide to check it in the water at least let it sit overnight or longer to let the boat settle to its natural state.
Alignment is often overlooked and is as important as checking the oil, I dont try to advertise this to much because, well you know...
but alot of transmissions i see are failed due to mis-alignment and it causes hard part damage, vibrations, excess heat and so on
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2007 at 3:52pm
I'm not a gambling man, but I'll say 0% of owners on this site check it ever time the boat gets lifted or trailered.

If you can't even check your own impeller how you gonna check your alignment!!!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2007 at 3:37pm
Eric,

Page 27 of the Borg Warner Velvet Drive Installation Manual (the Reference section of this site is awesome!) states the Propeller and Output Shaft Alignment should be checked anytime the propeller strikes a heavy object and also after the boat has been lifted by a hoist or moved on a trailer.

Does everyone here check their alignment everytime they trailer their boats somewhere? I'll be bringing home a Mustang hopefully soon (about 300+ miles). Should I check the alignment before putting it on the lake?

Thanks,
Brice
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2007 at 3:30pm
Originally posted by todicus todicus wrote:

Another question......... when checking the alignment, should you remove the bolts to the shaft first?


As I understand it, it should be checked with the bolts out completely, just holding the couplings together with hand pressure.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2007 at 2:03pm
Another question......... when checking the alignment, should you remove the bolts to the shaft first? Did you mention a torque setting somewhere ?

I've always wanted to put in a dripless shaft seal, but am too chicken to mess with an alignment issue I might create.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2007 at 1:52pm
Eric,

Should shaft alignment be done in the water or is it OK to do it on the trailer?
How often should this be checked?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2007 at 1:00pm
Thanks Eric, first how-to on alignment in a while. Just brought my boat home and plan on double checking alignment soon. I'm with M3, I will sit there and go over it in my head...if i move the front of the engine to the left it moves the coupling right or i could just move the rear a little bit on the right....then i have another beer and clean the valve covers again.
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2007 at 9:49am
keep the collar an inch or so closer to the seal but not touching, it so if the shaft lets loose you wont jam the prop into the rudder, thats why its always a good idea to check for a nice tight fit at the coupling... make sure it isnt wore out, I'll lock tite them and tighten by hand for the most part, but normally they are torqued to a 7/16 bolt.
For years I had a coast guard inspector looking over me and torqing bolts... Its a feel thing
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2007 at 8:49am
Eric, what's the official torque on the flange bolts? Do you ever use threadlocker on them?
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