95' Nautique Project ... expanded

I figure that if your engine starts to knock, the computer won't retard the timing.

The engine would run fine with it disconnected like it was, it just wouldn't have the knock detection protection.

Then again I could be totally out to lunch

And my guess is corrosion is what broke those wires.

And thanks for the question Gary ... because while I had it back on the bench I noticed something I hadn't seen before - a couple of wires that appear to be cut broken from fatigue.   I'm not sure what this thing is and would appreciate a little input here. I'm guessing this is a necessary item but not sure if the cut wires were intentionally cut??





I've reviewed a few wiring diagrams and can't seem to track this thing down.

Thanks

Joe can you post a couple of pictures of the injector harness,especially the plug where it plugs into the main harness. Do you think it is a proprietary plug? I know you can get the injector side plugs .That harness is 150 thru PCM if it even is available,if I can get thet plug I'll just make my own.

Hi Joe

Not knowing just what you did on the harness, here's a question for you.

Did you happen to find the diode in the purple wire between the EEC relay and your 8 pin connector?

It came up in this thread from DW SD last year and he never found it. He quit looking after he found his problem at the connector.

this thread


It might be good for you or others with a GT 40 at some point to know where it is

You can find the drawing in the GT40 service manual in the reference section.

It's section 3F-11 and 12. on page 220 of 301

I don't know if you untaped and retaped stuff, replaced wiring etc but this seems like the ideal time to find it, instead of when everything is installed and sometime in the future you're having a problem and are looking for it.

Nice work on the wiring. Love it.

Also just noticed that the new pad around the shifter looks like it's a couple shades off of black in the pic I posted - must be the angle or the light. In person and from different angles it's almost a perfect match.




And, the original intake as well as the plenum were powder coated red, which again I love.
But then I found this and the ol' teen hot rodder in me came out and I just had to snatch it up.




Not sure how that's all going to blend with the color scheme, but there's no denying the 40 or 50 pounds of weight difference

It's still "Team Red"

The knee is improving rapidly; Arthroscopic surgery is a modern medical miracle. My dad had the same injury in 1978. He ended up with a wicked 6 inch scar and a very looooong recovery period.

Kudos to Dr. Michael Holmstrom at Intermountain Health Care.

JQ

Love the RED.

KENO gives me a hard time about the red parts: distributor cap, valve covers, shirt, sunburn, bank account etc.

JQ

After much consideration and some input from a couple of mechanic buddies and my machine shop the block is indeed far beyond a salvageable state. However, the internals seem to be in very good shape. They all agree it's strange because a lot of the key components don't appear to have any wear at all - almost like they were brand new.   
So I figure I'll just part out the internals and various other extra parts when I'm done. But the block? Definitely an anchor.

Machine shop was back-logged 6 weeks or so at the time so it's just a waiting game now till then. I've got 85-90% of everything else done already so there's several weeks left to slowly get that to 100%. Engine bolt-ons are already back from the powdercoaters shop and half of the small brackets and such that I'm just cleaning up and painting are already done as well. I still need to apply the carpet on the kick and side areas of the observer seat and get the small interior piece around the controls to the upholstery shop. My office looks crazy ... new pieces and parts laying around everywhere and in the middle of it all is the engine cover    

MrMcD wrote: ... this may be a good time to look at a higher amp alternator to handle your new amp draw

Yeah, I was seriously considering swapping to a higher amp alt now. If it weren't for already having a NIB Arco replacement that I bought last fall before I knew this whole process was going to take place as soon as it has.

Having said that, my last boat was quite a bit larger and had 8 component speakers and 2 large subs with over 2000 watts.   And 2 separate amps. I ran that system off of virtually the same set-up as I have now with the exception of the alternator, which was just the stock 8.1 Merc version, I think at 70 amps vs the 55 amp Arco I have. I never saw a fluctuation with that system because the real key is the batteries, not the alternator.

Amps, especially when powering high demand speakers like subs, require a very fast response from the power source. Alternators weren't designed to provide this. They get this power directly from the battery and if it isn't built to deliver this when called on you get drain from the rest of the system and a heavy load demand from the alternator (if the engine is running) which causes the lights, etc. to dim or pulse.

Most cranking batteries won't keep up with this either, and in fact if you try it can severely reduce the life expectancy of that battery. Cranking batteries were designed to be able to supply large amounts of power very quickly, yes - but only for a very short period of time. When you push them into continual high demand service, such as with a high demand audio system, they will fail very rapidly and you'll get the same pulsing and a very short usable charge. If/ when the charge drops below 10V you're damaging the battery and reducing it's life expectancy. Do that a dozen times over the course of a summer, even with a brand new battery, and it's likely going to be toast.

Deep cycle and dual purpose batteries for the most part will do the job and there are those that are purpose built for the task. And unlike cranking batteries, they can be nearly 100% discharged time after time and never reduce their life. They can also handle the riggers of high demand for long periods of time. Purpose built deep cycles can also provide the same, or near same performance right up to the very end of their charge, unlike typical batteries who's performance would slowly decline as the charge declines.

Just a bit of research from the old boat. It's actually come in very handy many times now.

Wisky Badger wrote: It looks great. Where did you order your carpet from and what Oz. is it?

Thanks ! I ordered carpet from Christine's. They have two oz options: 14 and 30(ish). I ordered the 14 because I was going to be cleaning up and reusing the carpet molding which on my era SN will only accept up to 16oz. And really, though it sounds good to have thick plushy carpet, in practical use it isn't a good idea because it stays damp much, much longer. My last boat had fairly thick carpet like that and it took forever to dry out. Didn't hurt anything really, but it was snap-out installed on a full fiberglass self bailing inner liner and it had rubber backing. But on a glue-down that's not very advisable even with my fiberglass floor - the excess moisture can breed mold and mildew in the right conditions

It looks great. Where did you order your carpet from and what Oz. is it?

Just occurred to me Saturday I'd better get all the wiring for the amp and tower speakers done now, before the engine and interior get in my way.



Since I had to make new panels for the driver kick panel and side anyway I extended the side out to accommodate the long amp and extended both upward to move the bolt-ons higher to help avoid future damage.





Went ahead with the installation of the #2 battery - with the switch it can be isolated so it shouldn't interfere with the engine electronics installation. That way I could check out the new amp, make sure all is well. And all is well - sounds great with my 1 installed speaker! Can't wait to get the rest in ... but that'll have to wait till after the engine is in and running