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Weeding the Pumpkin patch

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9543
Printed Date: May-04-2024 at 6:13am


Topic: Weeding the Pumpkin patch
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Subject: Weeding the Pumpkin patch
Date Posted: February-02-2008 at 2:09am
Here's where I'm starting. Does anyone have any tips on removing the floor gently. I'm concerned about breaking the outside edges loose from the hull because they aren't loose?!!? Only loose on the inside.




This part is solid, but yall know me by now...


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Replies:
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-02-2008 at 12:19pm
take measurements of everything you can, including the battery box, the old floor will act as a guide for the new, a sawzall to me seems to be the easiest, a skil saw set at the proper depth will also help along, the floor youi see is glass over foam and some wood strips

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-02-2008 at 12:30pm
Eric, that probably makes sense to someone who's done it before, but could you be more specific for me? I'm kinda 'slow' too! LOL

What I'm asking is how to separate the floor edges from the inside of the hull without damaging the hull. I can see me sticking a sawzall in there and ending up with half the boat I had before.

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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-02-2008 at 12:46pm
use a long blade right against the hull, you wont cut in, dont clean that edge though because you need a guide for the new floor, your a glutton for punishment, wear long sleeves and duct tape the sleeves, your gonna think you gotta bad case of the crabs, its probably not a good idea to cut the air box out up front, cut right to it then determine if you need to do work to it, there is a lot of vent pipes and drains in that area,plus the battery cables,

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-02-2008 at 1:17pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

use a long blade right against the hull, you wont cut in,


Greg, Just to clarify, the sawsall blade will flex and follow the hull side. It is a scary process because it is only the "feel" or resistance in cutting that guides you.

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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-02-2008 at 1:49pm
If it was me I would use a circular saw with a blade depth of about 3/8" deep and run it about 2"-3" away from the outside edge all the way down. It will take maybe 15 minutes that way or you an hour or more with the sawzall.

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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: February-02-2008 at 1:50pm
Hey Chris: Did you see the message I sent ya last nite on a post?

john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: skicat
Date Posted: February-02-2008 at 1:57pm
On my 71 nautique I did, I used the circular saw like 79 said.

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Greg

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2427&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985" rel="nofollow - 86 BFN


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-02-2008 at 2:02pm
my tool of choice for this operation is a 036 stihl, sledge hammer and pick lol, contrary to using the skil saw, it leaves a jagged cut and that means you have to grind some more, and once you start itchin them nuts you say...i shouldve made a nice clean cut with the sawzall, they both are effective, it just depends on how much grinding you want to do

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-02-2008 at 4:46pm
Hammers and chainsaws aside...it still sounds more brutal than I'm up for?!!? I can get a good flex from grabbing the inside of the floor...if I make a relief cut, will it snap off?

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-02-2008 at 5:08pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

my tool of choice for this operation is a 036 stihl,


And look at the results!!



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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-02-2008 at 9:53pm
buffalo, it is a job you soon will not forget, it really doesnt tear or snap off, the glass strands prevent this and i know if you can build a BBC, you can tackle this job, it is messy it is itchy but when your finished you will have the sense of a great acomplishment, what im really trying to say is better you than me


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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-03-2008 at 9:11am
Eric, if you were giving the halftime pep talk the team would stay in the locker room?!!? LOL I spent some time under the boat a few years ago working on the strut mount area, and I know all about itchy and scratchy. Slash(hasbeen), you do nice work and you clearly knew where to start from your pics...gonna help a buffalo accross the street?


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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-03-2008 at 12:00pm
I'll sit on the bench and watch

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-03-2008 at 12:22pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

I'll sit on the bench and watch

A wise old man warned me about kibitzers...

From wiki: (intransitive) To give unwanted advice or make unhelpful or idle comments, especially to someone playing a game. [or trying to fix an old CC]

Eric, please don't take that the wrong way...pack youself an overniter and show me! I'll sit on the bench and kibitz?!!? And to show you that my heart is in the right place, we'll let Amy do the cooking.

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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-03-2008 at 12:27pm
would that be southern cooking? i have a ton of pics from 87's that i was just looking at, if i could figure out how to get them to you i will e-mail them to help you along. you know you can also call anytime, post your e-mail and i'll have the better half send them

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-03-2008 at 12:59pm
Hi Eric,

It's Amy(aka Ms. Buffalo), from where I come from in central Kentucky (Lexington), we were "fence sitters"/a border state so I can cook either way. Just let me know what your favorite is, when you'll be here, and I'm sure it will be among the best you've ever had...can you tell I love to cook, especially for friends?.?.

Ms. Buffalo,
(Mrs. Buffalo after we return from Jamaica this spring!...looking forward to getting married on the beach.)

P.S. I've followed this site so much and having been raised on the Kentucky River (Clays Ferry) we even had Christmas on our houseboat growing up, learned to ski at 6 or 7 jumping over or plowing through big houseboat/cruiser wakes, then learned to barefoot here on Lanier in my 20's. Now it's Greg's turn to teach me to wakeboard!!!

Guys, I think I need my own "handle" for this site, any suggestions?




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"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-03-2008 at 1:01pm
chicken paprikash? we wouldnt want your handle to be Buffalo, how about gazelle?

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-03-2008 at 1:16pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

chicken paprikash? we wouldnt want your handle to be Buffalo, how about gazelle?

LOL Thanks...I think?!!? I was thinking something like SouthernClassic. She is a classy gal and our new 63 classic is for her. I'll ask her when she gets back from the store...she's getting pork knees and oppossum jowels for the superbowl!

ROFL

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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-03-2008 at 1:21pm
I never did see a pic of you, pork knees and oppossum ...are you .....
impossible, not water lovers

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-03-2008 at 1:22pm
Eric, BuffaloBFN=millman1@bellsouth.net

I think it's a good thing you have a 'better half' to look after you! Lord help us otherwise?!!?

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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-03-2008 at 1:31pm
the better half is from the politically correct generation, (she's younger than me) she scolds me alot..

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: February-04-2008 at 2:12am
You probably need all the scolding you can get.

Greg; Got your message...did not want to bother you Sunday afternoon or during the game. Just got home from watching it at my sister's. Will talk to you tomorrow evening.

john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: skicat
Date Posted: February-04-2008 at 10:51am
Ms Buffalo,
Clays Ferry is my old stomping ground as well. Learned to ski on the KY River (did quite a bit of drinking there as well). Had friends with a houseboat that they kept just down from Boonesboro park. The memories of Admirals Day weekends!

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Greg

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2427&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985" rel="nofollow - 86 BFN


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-04-2008 at 11:37am
Greg, looks like we're almost family. LOL When are you going to be up for dinner? I'm sure a southern guy like you is due for the knees and jowels?!!?

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"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-04-2008 at 11:40am
Originally posted by jbear jbear wrote:

Greg; Got your message...did not want to bother you Sunday afternoon or during the game. Just got home from watching it at my sister's. Will talk to you tomorrow evening.

John, I'm usually early to bed and early to rise...before 7pm would be best if that works for you. And I'm lookng forward to talking with another CCFan legend!   

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"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-04-2008 at 2:03pm
Amy said 'tell skicat that I’m a former Admiral’s Day Queen (the black and white pic in our bedroom is from that day) and a certified Kentucky Admiral.

After the Clays Ferry Boat Dock closed we moved our boats to Riverview Marina which is probably where he is talking about just down river from the park. Dad’s friends owned the Riverview Marina until about 2 years ago. Had a really cool restaurant and bar called the “Boathouse” with live music on the water right across from a huge limestone cliff and it made for some really cool acoustics.

Ask him if he ever went to Lake Cumberland, Herrington or Cave Run. Dad and Dee used to own a house at Cumberland down around Mill Springs/Monticello area.'




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"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: skicat
Date Posted: February-04-2008 at 3:50pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

Amy said 'tell skicat that I’m a former Admiral’s Day Queen (the black and white pic in our bedroom is from that day) and a certified Kentucky Admiral.



I have a few pictures of those Admiral Day queens myself!

I was up that way back in the fall. We went to an EKU football game & went to Halls on the river to eat afterwards.
All of my younger foolish boating days were spent on the river or on Cave Run.

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Greg

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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: February-05-2008 at 3:49am
Greg: Just saw this message...I also e-mailed you. Before 7 it is then, tuesday evening.

john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-06-2008 at 10:23pm
Has anyone used a http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100355577&N=10000003+90401+502104+1676 - Roto Zip with or without the zipsaw attachment for floor removal?

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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-07-2008 at 10:24am
oh yes, i have one but it creates to much damn dust..

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-07-2008 at 1:49pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

oh yes, i have one but it creates to much damn dust..

You mean the spiral cut bit? Have you tried the zipmate attachment? I don't see how that would be worse than a skill saw...but I suppose I'm procrastinating anyway?!!?

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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-08-2008 at 10:20am
Greg, i needed a nice cut yesterday on a swim platform so i pulled out the roto-zip, within 10 minutes i broke 3 blades, so i had to pull out the skil saw...i itched all night, i did notice the skil saw throws quite a bit of dust. no matter how you attack it your gonna itch. the sawzall definitely keeps the dust down....did you start the floors yet?

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-08-2008 at 10:21am
my wife tried sending some pics, i dont know if they made them though, i might have to put them on a CD and mail it to you

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-08-2008 at 10:51am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

within 10 minutes i broke 3 blades

3 spiral bits or 3 of the circular saw attachment blades?

Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

did you start the floors yet?

Nope, I ve been out several times to study it and tug on it to see what moves and what doesn't. I'm still not comfortable with the sawzall(don't have one either, but could borrow)...I do have a nice jigsaw I may explore with or I may go to a skilsaw. I was asking about the zip attachment because it's smaller and I hate skilsaws?!!? LOL

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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-08-2008 at 11:42am
on the way to work i was listening to Niel Young and thought for some strange reason that you are a Niel Young fan, the sawzall is probably your best bet, with a 12" fine blade, there is not much against the gunnels,so drill a hole near the sides and the blade of the sawzall will guide itself on the curve of the side of the hull....dont be afraid, once you start you will say this is easy    Eric

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-09-2008 at 10:41am
the laws of Physics always kick in....I did an estimate on a swim platform, it pretty much was cut and dry....remove, repair and re-install. I got it back to the shop and the backing was so rotted i had to split the 2 halves ( they are made like a boat) its a fiberglassing night mare. the only reason i removed it was because 3 brackets were cracked, the mounting holes against the transom had cracks and they needed repaired and painted,
I guareentee any other shop would of made those easier repairs and hung the platform back on and collected the doe...

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-09-2008 at 11:31pm
Well, I thought the krptonite joke would get a rise out of you...and I do like some of what Neil Young has done, especially with CSN&Y. I grew up with the hair bands and got a pretty good taste of the legends as well.

On to 'bidness' and speaking of old music, I cut out the 2 long sides of the floor to see "if there were any cooties in there"?!!?   

I didn't find any 'butta' or field mice, but it is a mess and a fertile ground for other assorted micro-organisms.

Seriously though, the closest thing to dry wood I saw was just forward of the pylon. The foam is not soaked, but it is wet along with all of the wood I've uncovered so far...and there is a lot more wood in this boat than I expected. Some of the wood is clearly rotten and some looks to have some structure left to it...maybe enough for a pattern?!!?

You guys were right about the sawzall..once I jumped in. I'll be spending tomorrow coming up with some boat stands. There's no way I'd find any around here...the dry stacks are full and so are the marina parking lots from the lake being down!




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"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-09-2008 at 11:55pm
My floor comes out tomorrow, I fear the same fate awaits me...

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Posted By: Bremsen
Date Posted: February-10-2008 at 12:20pm
Wow, its crazy how different the BF is to the Ski, for being so similar in appearance on the water. It's tough to see in the pics exactly how the stringer system is laid out. Is there foam between the main and secondary stringer?

I wish I was still in the ATL area; I'd definately come up to check this out. Good luck with the project, I'll be following this thread for sure. I'm figuring this will be our winter project for 09.

How's Lanier doing anyway? I know it was probably the hardest hit in the SE. Our lakes have come up a tiny bit, but we're still a long way off from any resemblance of normal.

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-10-2008 at 1:18pm
Originally posted by Bremsen Bremsen wrote:

Wow, its crazy how different the BF is to the Ski, for being so similar in appearance on the water. It's tough to see in the pics exactly how the stringer system is laid out. Is there foam between the main and secondary stringer?

Howdy from the south Ryan. It's laid out just about the same as a SN, but it has a good bit more wood in it compared to other pics I've seen; and there is foam in every void above the bilge. This is my first stringer/floor job so I don't have much personal experience to speak from, but I did have a friend in the fiberglass business, so I've seen a few taken down, but I didn't ever see the wood I see in this. I do realize it has to hold the pumpkin above water...but $#@$! LOL

Originally posted by Bremsen Bremsen wrote:

How's Lanier doing anyway? I know it was probably the hardest hit in the SE. Our lakes have come up a tiny bit, but we're still a long way off from any resemblance of normal.

We've had a liitle rain recently, but we're still around 19' down.

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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: February-10-2008 at 3:02pm
Well you finally took the leap. Wish I could come up and help too.

I know it looks bad but now you know what you are up against. Bet you wrestle it to the ground and beat it!

As always...keep them pictures coming.

john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-10-2008 at 6:07pm
Greg, Knowing you, the more wood in the hull the better!

Are you going to re foam?

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-10-2008 at 10:20pm
Originally posted by jbear jbear wrote:

Wish I could come up and help too.

Volunteers are most welcome and enjoy the best of sounthern hospitality!

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-10-2008 at 10:38pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Greg, Knowing you, the more wood in the hull the better!

Any other time I'd have to agree. I'm about to turn 40 though and don't want to have to do this again! I've read about a few materials here including coosa board and another that escapes me now, but the bottom line is that wood will eventually rot in a boat that gets used. Assuming I still have it in 30 years I know the oil will look like it just came out of the bottle...how cool would it be to have that peace of mind on the hull as well?

I do like the 'knowing you' part...thanks.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Are you going to re foam?

So far I'm thinking yes. I think I know how this was done at the factory and I'm thinking of trying to duplicate it. My big decision is on what to use for stringers and other wood parts. There is a literal 'boat load' of wood in this thing and it's all wet and roughly 40-60% soft/rotting, and I haven't decided on my best path yet. I will say that the removable deck in the back will be redesigned. It needs a proper 'seat' so that it doesn't bust up the water barrier to the stringers.

Film at 11

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-11-2008 at 9:07am
Greg, Here's where I stand on stringers. Keep in mind that they are only my opinions.

I really don't feel that CC (or any boat manufacturer) made a big effort to keep water out of the wood. I've seen bare wood (no glass). Screw holes drilled into the stringers for seats, engine mounts, etc. compromising any water barrier. I know that there isn't a true water barrier when it comes to solid wood but with the best process that wasn't done at the factory will provide at least 3 or 4 times the life.

I'm not yet convinced that a "drop in" composite is available that matches wood. The ones that are as strong as the wood are heavy.
I would stick with some nice clear fir. (no treated)

CPES is a great product that all wood should get a couple coats (end grain 3 or 4!) before it goes in the boat plus any holes drilled later need the CPES injected in them. It has become one of the favorite tools of the wood boat builder/restorer. 5200 on the screws/bolts at finial assembly.

Epoxy isn't hygroscopic like the polester resin the factory used so it is a must for the complete project. The polester over time will slowly allow water to get to the wood.

I don't care for the fiberglass floor skins. People jumping in the boat and with the foam support degrading with time will cause it to fracture allowing water to get in the outside areas of the bilge. CPES then epoxy coated ply is my choice.

If you foam, I prefer the injection method over the pour in. Injection foam self skins on the outside providing a water barrier. With pour or spray in, you always end up cutting the tops off opening up the cells in the foam. I know that it is a closed cell foam but feel it makes a difference. Carefull sealing the injection points with epoxy is important.

If you don't foam and add more foam for bouyancy say under the decks and gunnels, then provide drainage on the bottom edges of the stringers.

I'm going to try to find the thread about new stringers/floor that someone did that was really damn close to the exact process I'm describing. I remember him even using temporary screws to hold the ply down until the epoxy he used to bond it down cured. Then removed the screws and injected the holes. I can't remember who it was but I was impressed. I'll come back in and provide a link when I find it.

Edit: Greg, it's in this thread but I didn't read that he presealed the ply with CPES - important! He did use pour foam but with the injected, there is less waste. You only inject as much as is needed and don't need to mix too much like with the A-B foam.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9096&KW=screw+holes - ply floor

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-11-2008 at 10:18am
Pete, you make a solid case as always and thanks for the info. I went to bed having this discussion with myself! LOL

I do like the idea of staying with wood for several reasons, and I probably wouldn't stay up nights worrying about it with the CPES on it. If I can sort out all of the things you guys have done so well and maybe avoid some of the pitfalls...! Brian(FINS), do you have a pic of the pvc bilge system you described in the linked thread? Has anyone else used this meathod? All comments and criticisms are welcome!

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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-11-2008 at 11:23am
Pete, if you're using CPES, do you really need to coat with epoxy? Might that hold water in the wood and not let it breath? My brother's 1980 Resorter has wood framing below the floor that is painted or covered with something that is flat black. It is not encapsulated with any type of resin and there are no rotting problems, even after 27 years. I'm assuming they used some kind of treament on the wood.

My 88 Malibu Skier has all the wood covered with resin, and I have replaced all the seat frames and part of the floor, and have been babying the area under the rear seat for about 10 years with Git Rot.

I'm still in the planning phase for the Mustang, but lately been wondering about not using resin.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-11-2008 at 12:01pm
Bruce, Once you use the CPES, you are stuck with the process of trying to keep water out of the wood by sealing it. Remember that the CPES is a epoxy that is just thinned with solvent to get it to penetrate. There are really two thoughts here. One is to make a effort to completely seal the wood and the other to allow the wood to breath. The breathing wood has long been controversial and really comes down to giving the wood a chance to dry out occasionally. When wood "breaths", it also breaths water moisture so I lean towards keeping the water out. I have torn into wood boats where the surface of the wood looks good but where it can't breath or dry out, there is rot! Your brother I feel has been lucky without getting any rot but Century also treated the wood with Penta. It was banned along time ago because it was proven to cause cancer. Here's the picture of the Century's bilge. You notice that there are just some small "straps" of glass holding the wood to the hull. I can honestly say that the hull of the Century is twice the thickness and the stringers are there to hold the engine and the floor so the little straps work.











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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-11-2008 at 12:22pm
That's a great shot. Steve's friend is sure going to town on that boat. Century were really well made. That pic will help me with the framing of my boat as I'm going foamless.

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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-11-2008 at 8:43pm
Riley & Pete - If the foam isn't replaced under the floor, would some ventilation be in order - to dry out any moisture that accumulates? Maybe a few duct passages?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-11-2008 at 9:28pm

Chris,

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


If you don't foam and add more foam for bouyancy say under the decks and gunnels, then provide drainage on the bottom edges of the stringers.


With everything glassed and the drainage, water won't be a problem.

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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-12-2008 at 11:48am
IMHO,

A boat that gets daily heavy skiing use will destroy a coated plywood floor overfoam no matter how well sealed at every screw hole, I had 6 or so attempts to get that system right on boats for the summer camp I worked for and none of them lasted through thier 4th summer completely intact. I've had better success with pressure treated plywood uncoated but that was not over foam.

Coosa board is currently "the" replacement for grady's, mako's etc in the floor and the transom in these areas its as strong as plywood (in the direction strength is required) and slightly lighter.

Stringers are both easier to seal completely and harder to do right with any of the composites and so there I agree that fir is almost always the best idea.

Just my opinion



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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-12-2008 at 12:09pm
Joe, Just wondering about the summer camp failures. Rough service to say the least!! The ply that failed, did you just resin coat it? With polyester or epoxy? Any CPES? Did it rot or delaminate?

I certainly agree with you that the Coosa board is a excellant product. It's just more money!!

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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-12-2008 at 1:01pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Joe, Just wondering about the summer camp failures. Rough service to say the least!! The ply that failed, did you just resin coat it? With polyester or epoxy? Any CPES? Did it rot or delaminate?

I certainly agree with you that the Coosa board is a excellant product. It's just more money!!


I never did just resin, was always topped with at least one layer of cloth typically two early attempts were with polyester although fairly high end polyester, at first I just encased the plywood resin and one layer of glass, eventually we were thinning west systems epoxy with acetone and painting the board a few coats before we encased, then we tried thinning by heating and encasing, the last one we used the CPES, we had a few shots at it. The last one is actually going into year 5 but it is soft in a few places and frankly they don't use the boats quite as hard as we used to.

The biggest issue I believe, besides the boats being constantly wet all summer was that with all the banging around (there were no days called on account of waves) it was just impossible to keep them crack free and all the screw holes from loosening up just enough.

They would typically rot, drivers seats were the worst areas, ski lockers second. As these were I/o's or outboards that usually came to us from donations (not typically well taken care of boats to begin with) we would usually destroy the original floor/seats after one season, put in a new floor over the off season start repairs after the second season with the new floor (more and larger screws, expoy), more serious repairs the third season (backing plates etc).and the fourth season the boat would generally be on its way out with one or more seats non functional.   

I think covering these boats at night actually did considerably more harm than good they would be hot and moist in there by 8 in the morning.

My boats don't get used quite this hard but they do get used alot when I am healthy and usually go to bed wet after twilight skiing. I am 210-245lbs depending on the year and most of my skiing friends are 225-265 so we put stress on the seats and floor, and with a 10 mile lake we see our fair share of bumpy rides looking for skiable water.

The only thing worse than doing a floor stringer replacement is being around to see it fall apart again.

Probably none of this is an issue for the average ski boat that lives on a trailer is "adult owned" and doesn't spend much time bouncing around in the waves. My 83 certainly made it a very long time with the original wood over foam construction before it rotted, but the 550 hours on it is less than what it would have gotten in two years of camp service.

Basically all this is to say if you abuse your boats you might want to consider coosa instead of plywood...

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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-12-2008 at 1:46pm
I think the only cure for a heavily used boat is maybe the rino lining type products applied then carpeting over it.

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 10:22am
I'll call around to see about the coosa price and availability. I think I'm sold on it unless it's cost prohibitive. Good practical info Joe. I think I'm also sold on using fir for the stringers after studying the size of the beams in this boat. My limited experience with composites tells me that composites are much harder to shape than wood, and there will be a good bit of shaping.

I've been following a couple of threads in hopes of not forgetting anything...thanks all for the helpful info. I finished these last night and wound up putting a little more into them after a post from Bill(skibum). I even recycled 4 old head bolts, an old inner tube, and a TV stand my grandfather must have built in the 60's...old heart pine sure makes the shop smell good.




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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 10:32am
Greg, I notice at the bottem of the stands that you didnt round the corners, so i am going to give you a b minus on them   lol
Insanity is a fine line

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 10:54am
I'll take a B minus from you...and that fine line is why I didn't put the finishing touches on 'em, but part of me wanted to?!!? LOL When was the last time you saw pine like this?




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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 12:11pm
Greg, You have crossed that fine line on this one!!!!!

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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 12:17pm
the last time i saw pine like that was last nite lmao

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 12:18pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Greg, You have crossed that fine line on this one!!!!!


Shhhh, don't tell anyone?!!?   LMAO

It's a heavy boat...and they'll get used again!

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 12:21pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

the last time i saw pine like that was last nite lmao


They're coming to take you away, oh my!

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 2:35pm
Pete, I guess it's a good thing I didn't tell you that they're adjustable!

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 3:05pm
Greg, Now that you spent probaby 6 hours just sanding the parts, you might as well varnish!! If you use a marine spar varnish, it will give it that nice amber tone of reclaim Heart Pine

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Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 3:29pm
Buffalo,

I think I'll post that picture in my garage and save myself from all those "overkill" comments I've received over the years. "Compared to this guy . . ."   BKH

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 3:31pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Greg, Now that you spent probaby 6 hours just sanding the parts, you might as well varnish!! If you use a marine spar varnish, it will give it that nice amber tone of reclaim Heart Pine

I spent about 6 hours making the parts and maybe 3 on assembly; jointer, planer, and table saw, no sanding. If it was a finish project I'd add in at least 8 hours of sanding! LOL I saw several stands available on the net that would be around $500 with shipping for 4...I spent just over $3 on a few grade 8 nuts and washers.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 4:01pm
Ok, sorry I couldn't see the grade markings on the bolt heads!! Grade 8 has a psi tensile of 150,000 and grade 2 60,000. You didn't feel the 60,000 was good enough?? I thought that I was the only one who over designed before knowing you!! Socket head caps have a 174,000 tensile. I think you need to change out the bolts!

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Posted By: Bremsen
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 4:41pm
I'll give you $6 for them when you're done double your $$ just like that

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Posted By: Big Pappa
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 5:10pm
Nice job on the stands. I am about to build something similar for my boat project. Are these just to brace the hull while the boat is still on the trailer? Make sure to post some pics once you have the boat on the stands.

Kris


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 5:28pm
Originally posted by Big Pappa Big Pappa wrote:

Nice job on the stands. I am about to build something similar for my boat project. Are these just to brace the hull while the boat is still on the trailer? Make sure to post some pics once you have the boat on the stands.

Thanks Kris. I think I'm going to leave the trailer under it for now, the fender makes a good step. As for the rest, I'm still thinking about some other posts I've read and how I'm going to set everything up.

When Pete and Eric get done rocking my boat, maybe we'll both know?!!?

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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-14-2008 at 12:04am
if your lazy like me and dont want to make stands, spare tires (on the rims) make a great workbench to set a boat on, they offer support and spread the weight depending on how many you use, and it does feel safe when working in the boat

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-14-2008 at 8:26am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Ok, sorry I couldn't see the grade markings on the bolt heads!! Grade 8 has a psi tensile of 150,000 and grade 2 60,000. You didn't feel the 60,000 was good enough?? I thought that I was the only one who over designed before knowing you!! Socket head caps have a 174,000 tensile. I think you need to change out the bolts!

You got me professor! LOL

I did try to get the hardware at a big box when I was there checking out the wood blade for the roto zip...no 7/16" at all?!!? And the roto blade is just what Erick said it was, a dust maker; or at least that's my take without actually using it.

Good one Bremsen, but it was just over $3 in hardware so you're beating me up on my margin?!!? LOL

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-14-2008 at 8:48am
My plan at this point is to put the stands under the 4 corners with just a bit more than static support and then start on removing foam. So far I've only removed the long sides of the floor on each side of the engine well. They were already loose, so I don't think I've made any problems for myself yet...or at least not any new ones.

This is Bill's post that concerns me. IIRC he removed 1 stringer at a time and still had this hull movement.
Originally posted by SkiBum SkiBum wrote:

One thing I wish I would have done: After I cut the floor and removed the foam all that remained was the rotting stringers partially attached to the hull. What I did not realize was that despite the fact the boat was on the trailer, it was not shaped correctly. I found out (quite by accident) that I had to raise the sides of the hull foreward of the engine compartment in order to bring the boat back into the proper shape. At the factory it would be in a mold. I ended up placing blocks of 2x4 and small wedges to raise the bottom of the hull until it matched the bottom of the stringers.

It is important to level the boat as much as possible. Try to get it level left to right and back to front.

I suppose the best thing would be to brace the boat before you cut out the floor and remove the foam.


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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-14-2008 at 10:32am
Greg if you did use tires you would lay them horizontal, if you put them vertical the boat may roll away on you

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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-15-2008 at 10:33am
i will put tires under the keel, i have some tires with no rims on them and innertubes inside them and you put the desired air in for support, and then solid stands on the side.....any updates greg?

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-15-2008 at 10:42am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

i will put tires under the keel, i have some tires with no rims on them and innertubes inside them and you put the desired air in for support, and then solid stands on the side.....any updates greg?

That sounds pretty good with the rimless tires under the keel. I'll remember that when the trailer needs to go away. Right now I'm chasing a spread bore to holley carb base gasket so I can bend a new fuel line and finish painting the pumpkin. What I have works great with the wedge plate installed...it's pretty tall that way though.

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-15-2008 at 10:23pm
She's up on stands. I'm happy that the engine cradle came up dead level, but I do still have to level it front to back. We'll save that for tomorrow because somehow 1 project always seems to lead to another. I had to move the fridge, workbench, and the cabinet above it for the boat and car to fit in the garage and for me to be able to work around it. The lighter side is that the cabinet had to be cleaned out and it was overdue!




P.S.-That is Amy's hard hat on the wall...not mine?!!?

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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-25-2008 at 5:14pm
Well lets see the damage....

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-25-2008 at 5:32pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

Well lets see the damage....

Are you looking forward to seeing how much trouble I'm having?!!?   LOL

The hawk must be patient whilst the grasshopper forages!
(ancient southern proverb!)

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-25-2008 at 5:34pm
A side note for anyone wondering about their foam, etc...   Drilling a core from the top will not show the whole picture!

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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-25-2008 at 5:53pm
Its that old misery loves company deal, I cut out part of my floor over the weekend... have I ever mentioned how very much I dislike the use of wood in foam filled floors...

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-25-2008 at 9:47pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

have I ever mentioned how very much I dislike the use of wood in foam filled floors...

Joe, we gotta talk. I was about ready to go back with good fir, but now...?!!? I'm also not convinced about my foam not being a structural part of the boat. It's a pita to get out and is the strongest part to stand on?!!?

This pic shows a trowel stuck in the 'better' foam(halfway up and forward of the pylon). The bottom is wet all around, and I found pockets holding water. All of the wood would almost blow away if it was dry...and floating ribs?



Both of the vent pipes in the back corners were almost crushed closed, and I found a yard tool a little more rounded than a pitch fork.



This one shows the glass that never made it more than half way up the plywood and was folded over.



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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-25-2008 at 11:16pm
Greg are you digging into your stringers?
Im waiting for you post to where you kneel on a straight up sticking screw....be patient if it has'nt happened yet.....it will

i wish i was there right with you, but i gotta hang nail so i wont be able to make it

you may get a thigh badge of honor too when you get the grinder out..
I'll keep up the pep rally

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-26-2008 at 9:12am
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

I'm also not convinced about my foam not being a structural part of the boat.


Greg, I know it has been discussed before but this is my stand on the foam. I agree that the foam does add to the structural of the hull but do not feel it was part of the engineering that CC put into the design. It was a added extra. If it wasn't for the floatation requirments they wouldn't have gone to the added expense of putting it in.

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-26-2008 at 9:50am
Pete, I said what I did because it looks to me like the foam was picking up any 'slack' left behind by the rotted wood. In my other related thread, Chris(79) said I might have just caught it in time when he saw the old cam; the same can be said here. Most of the wood in this hull has gone back to what it grew in.

If I step in between the secondary stringers, the floor flexes a little. I didn't put my 200lbs on it of course, but it does move a bit. I know glass flexes, but I expected the bottom to be more rigid.

An old friend made the 6' ramp I use at the dock out of a dock box lid. It wouldn't have been strong enough even for a little kid until he glassed in some pink foam(in sheet form and looked like 3/4" insulation) on the bottom. When he brought it over I was skeptical, so he grabbed a full 28 quart cooler and jumped up and down on it. It acted just like a diving board. My point is, why couldn't I cut foam like that and then glass it in? I might even want to glass some flat to the hull to increase strengh?

I still have a long way to go, and I'm sure to learn more as I go; but I'm thinking I don't want to put wood back in it after seeing this mess.

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-26-2008 at 10:01am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

i wish i was there right with you, but i gotta hang nail so i wont be able to make it

Come on down...I can fix the hangnail!

Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

I'll keep up the pep rally

2 bits, 4 bits, 6 bits, a dollar...   
Yall be carefull with that image, it already got me!   LOL

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Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: February-26-2008 at 11:38am
Buffalo,

I've stepped between the stringers with the full force of my 230 lbs many times over the last year with no damage. As you suggest, the hull flexes a bit sometimes, but I've seen no gel coat cracking, etc. I don't climb in and jump up and down, but I've not worried about stepping on the bottom of the hull.

FWIW. BKH

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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-26-2008 at 11:55am
i dont think you guy's realize how strong glass really is...remember once a boat is in the water you are displacing weight very equally, when it sits on 4 stands you are concentrating the weight on those 4 areas, once in the water the 1000 pounds per square inch goes down to 10 pounds per square inch (roughly Pete, i dont have my calculator) use a flimsey row boat as an example..no foam...it was never intended as structural, but possible used that way once it was put in and some genious said lets put a floor on top of it. foam has no benifit except for safety reasons and rotting boats and watterlogging them

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-26-2008 at 12:02pm
Pink or blue insulation foam is cheap, seems stiff, easy to find, no problem to work with... and yet... A huge risk. One drop o gas makes it to that stuff and you then have hollow stringers or whatever else you made out of them. It can be used as basically a molding tool but you would need to be sure to have a layup that would take the entire load as that foam cannot be counted on.   

Now if you wanted to go with what I would consider a structural foam, one that can be counted on long term to add strength and stiffness what your really looking at is Crosslinked PVC's, tricky to work with as they dont bond well with all epoxys without foambond or the like added but the real issue here as this stuff makes coosa board look like a deal.

In my mustang I used 1/2 inch Crosslink PVC for the secondary stingers, covered with 5 layers of 10 oz glass oriented parallel,45,parallel,45,parrallel, the first three wrapping the stringer, the second two overlapping the floor after I bedded and beaded using expoy,epoxy mat and chopped strand filler. I then ran a layer of 6 then 8 inch tape over the joints. The resulting stringer is incredibly stiff for a secondary stringer, however they were incredibly expensive I didnt do the math but you can use that layup and you will find out what it is. The floor was also the same foam, two layers of 10oz glass on the bottom, 3 layers 10 oz on the top, plus a layer of stitched coremat material one up from the foam. This was pretty stiff, but no more so than a 5/8 inch sheet of plywood with layer of glass on both sides... still should be supported with cross supports. Again very expensive and this was a small boat. For the primary stringers I cheaped out and used heavily glassed blue insulation, here I did not wrap the foam as I was working more for a structural hat section of fiberglass, there are a dozen layers of althernating woven roving and 10 oz cloth there, more towards the center, less towards the bow/stern, a good quarter inch buildup, with 5/16 aluminum backing plates at mounting points.

All that adds up to a lot of time and expense, every bond is critical and you still dont have a floor you can screw things down to (have to glass in blocks or inserts to attach seats and the like). This time I try the coosa...     

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-26-2008 at 12:07pm
Oh yeah I didnt use any pour in foam on the mustang, just some water drainage channels

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-26-2008 at 12:19pm
Joe, Sounds like you built up the Mustang for the Navy so they could use it as a gun boat! Wow!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-26-2008 at 12:44pm
Well as stated before I have done a lot of floor jobs that I lived to see fall apart and since the mustang was my only cc at the time it got a lot of attention. If I only had a workshop then things life would have been a lot easier. Either way the poor thing only got run one week after I did that work along with the last round of engine upgrades (when the video in my sig was made) after that week I decided it was a little loud and fast for daily skiing use, so I bought the 83 with a blown motor in it pulled the motor out of the mustang put it in the 83 and have been playing with the 83 since. The mustang sits covered waiting for gelcoat, interior, and its continually upgraded 302 back, sad really.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-29-2008 at 9:27pm
I have my hull just about cleaned out. I got the cables and wiring out today. I'm still not sure of my plan though. The main stringers don't run parallel with the floor/secondary stringers. This makes it hard to level the boat...not that anything is level or true in there?!!?

My current thinking is to level the mains as they are most important. I left an edge of the old floor since it wasn't separated, so I'll level the floor off of that edge.
Pete, did I miss the check valve again?

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: March-01-2008 at 12:54pm
Guys, I'm decided on going back with fir. This keeps me in my comfort zone with the woodworking, and I won't be soon leaving it with a foot of water in the bilge.

Pete, this may end up as an example of your advice in action...better make any changes you want to now?!!?

Joe, please don't hate me. I'd rather use something that won't rot, but I think that may be out of my league for now.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: March-01-2008 at 1:58pm
No hate here, each man follows his own path to boating nirvana.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: March-01-2008 at 8:57pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

No hate here, each man follows his own path to boating nirvana.

Hate was too strong...I meant it as a backwards thank you for all of your input. Yes, I'm going back with wood after all of your advice, but I will be using some of your pointers as well! And since your brought it up, http://www.nirvananegril.com/index.html - Nirvana is where we're getting married.

Back to business, what do you guys use for aggressive glass removal? My meathod works but is slow.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: March-01-2008 at 9:04pm
A good grinder a shop vac tyvek suit respirator and face shield.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: March-01-2008 at 9:11pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

The thing about that pic that gets my attention is that the floor and strigers seem to be on the same plane. This is not the case with my boat.

Yep, the BFN and its deep-V hull allow the motor to sit down lower. Most CC's have main stringers at floor height.

The engine not only sits lower, but its 'bed' and the floor's 'bed' are not parallel. The stringers 'point' lower than the floor if that makes sense.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: March-01-2008 at 9:13pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

A good grinder a shop vac tyvek suit respirator and face shield.

I have all but the suit. Any particular type of blade/disk?

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO



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