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Replacing a steering cable 95’ Nautique

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8691
Printed Date: March-28-2024 at 8:19am


Topic: Replacing a steering cable 95’ Nautique
Posted By: aokcaldwell
Subject: Replacing a steering cable 95’ Nautique
Date Posted: October-11-2007 at 10:09pm
I have a 1995 Ski Nautique and the boat steers really hard. Has anyone replaced their own steering cable and do you have any tips or suggestions on how to do it? Also, I was told to replace the head end while I was at it? i.e. Buy the steering kit not just the cable.

Thanks,

AC.

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aok142
1999 NSS
GT40 Pro Boss



Replies:
Posted By: farmer
Date Posted: October-11-2007 at 11:34pm

I don't know if yours is the same as the cable in my 1977 mustang but mine was very easy to do.
If you call Southeast correct craft and ask for woody(although I talked to someone else and had no problem) he will be able to get you the right one. Skidim sells them a little cheaper and I'm sure they know what you need also.Don't forget the CCFan discount.
                               Farmer


Posted By: aokcaldwell
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 12:28am
Thanks Farmer. I also hope to speak to someone out there that has replaced the steering cable on their own 95 Ski Nautique. I will call Woody and appreciate the heads up on CCFan discount. I had no idea. Rookies!

AOK.

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aok142
1999 NSS
GT40 Pro Boss


Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 2:35am
I got mine at White Lake Marine.

Here you go:

http://www.shopwhitelake.com/steeringcables.html - Steering cable at White lake click here

$169.00
Use coupon code "PND" for a 10% discount. (thanks Planet Nautique)


Tip- tie a rope or clotheslinemto the end of the old steering cable (probably the end at the helm...) then, when you get the new one you can tie the rope to it and pull it through. Also good to have a buddy to help.

Whatever you do make sure you get the right cable!! don't try to cut corners with a generic, the CC cable are an odd size and you need the exact right length or you will have big problems.

Welcome to the site!


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique



Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 2:42am
BTW
I don't see any reason to replace the head end. if yours is the same as mine, it is a rack and pinion system and is all part of the cable. the helm end is just a wheel with teeth. you may want to make sure everything is tight though.

someone else can probably offer more/better input.



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique



Posted By: aokcaldwell
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 11:27am
Originally posted by Randy_in_Ohio Randy_in_Ohio wrote:

BTW
I don't see any reason to replace the head end. if yours is the same as mine, it is a rack and pinion system and is all part of the cable. the helm end is just a wheel with teeth. you may want to make sure everything is tight though.

someone else can probably offer more/better input.



-------------
aok142
1999 NSS
GT40 Pro Boss


Posted By: aokcaldwell
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 11:29am
Thanks Randy any input I receive is helpful. This is my first inboard. I just bought it in OH.

AOK.

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aok142
1999 NSS
GT40 Pro Boss


Posted By: aokcaldwell
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 11:29am
Originally posted by Randy_in_Ohio Randy_in_Ohio wrote:

BTW
I don't see any reason to replace the head end. if yours is the same as mine, it is a rack and pinion system and is all part of the cable. the helm end is just a wheel with teeth. you may want to make sure everything is tight though.

someone else can probably offer more/better input.



-------------
aok142
1999 NSS
GT40 Pro Boss


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 11:53am
Originally posted by Randy_in_Ohio Randy_in_Ohio wrote:

I got mine at White Lake Marine.

Here you go:

http://www.shopwhitelake.com/steeringcables.html - Steering cable at White lake click here

$169.00
Use coupon code "PND" for a 10% discount. (thanks Planet Nautique)


Tip- tie a rope or clotheslinemto the end of the old steering cable (probably the end at the helm...) then, when you get the new one you can tie the rope to it and pull it through. Also good to have a buddy to help.

Whatever you do make sure you get the right cable!! don't try to cut corners with a generic, the CC cable are an odd size and you need the exact right length or you will have big problems.

Welcome to the site!

This is the way to go- get the cable from White Lake. SkiDIM does not sell cables for Correct Crafts. CC uses oddball length increments and longer throws. Stick to a genuine cable.

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Posted By: aokcaldwell
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 12:49pm
I will definitely use a OEM CC cable and will have a second set of hands available. I am to remove the old cable from the helm, attach the new cable to old cable and pull it back. Anything else that comes to mind would be great. Sorry about the quotes, I wasn't paying attention to what I was doing.

Thanks Randy and Poobah.

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aok142
1999 NSS
GT40 Pro Boss


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 12:55pm
Originally posted by aokcaldwell aokcaldwell wrote:

I am to remove the old cable from the helm, attach the new cable to old cable and pull it back.

While this may work, you may find it easier to tie a rope to the old cable like Randy mentioned. Trying to remove the old cable and pull the new one through in one shot may prove difficult.

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Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 12:56pm
I wouldn't tie the old cable to the new. I would tie a piece of rope to the old cable, and pull the cable out. Then tie the rope to the new cable and use it to pull the new cable through in the opposite direction.

You will need to remove the back seat to get access to the cable where it attaches to your rudder. You may possibly need to remove the gas tank as well. I'm not familiar with your particular boat. BKH

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Livin' the Dream



Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 1:51pm
Originally posted by bkhallpass bkhallpass wrote:


You will need to remove the back seat to get access to the cable where it attaches to your rudder. You may possibly need to remove the gas tank as well.

Correct- he'll have to pull the rear seat. He wont have to take out the gas tank.

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Posted By: aokcaldwell
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 4:09pm
Thanks Poobah,

Glad the tank is empty!

AOK.

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aok142
1999 NSS
GT40 Pro Boss


Posted By: farmer
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 8:40pm

TRBenj. the cables sure look like mine in ski dim cat.my bad, but like I said mine came from CC. Also, my cable came with a nut that screwed onto the helm and the cable then snapped into the nut. The cable fed through the bilge and up the pvc tube easily without the nut in there to get hung up on things. Just tape the plastic tube (that comes on the exposed inner cable )to the outer part and it works out good.


                             Farmer


Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: October-13-2007 at 3:43pm
You will have to remove the back seat but you shouldn't have to remove the gas tank. the rope insures that you get it routed the right way, if it is not routed the right way it may cause the through to be off, and the rope make it easier to pull the cable through.

I pulled my old cable out with the rope attached and then left the rope in while I waited on delivery of the new cable. When the new cable arrived i was able to simply tie the rope to the new cable and pull it through while my buddy helped guide it. took less than an hour and pretty simple.

Oh yea, once you get your new cable in, don't forget to go out and turn the wheel back and forth a couple time during layup to help prevent it from freezing up.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique



Posted By: aokcaldwell
Date Posted: October-13-2007 at 4:06pm
Thanks. I am going to order the cable next week and remove the old one once the new one comes in. I assume there is no trick to attach it at the helm and the rudder.

AC.

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aok142
1999 NSS
GT40 Pro Boss


Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: October-14-2007 at 1:17pm
No tricks, pretty easy job. Just make sure to take care that everything is good and tight and installed correctly.

I had some loose screws at the helm also, so you may want to check that everything is tight up there also...

If your steering isn't right it could be a major safety issue!! so, take your time and double check to make sure everything is done right.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique



Posted By: Darrel
Date Posted: October-17-2007 at 5:16pm
95's are notorious for stiff steering, I put a zerk fitting on the rudderbox and its worked much better with a little grease.

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I'd rather have a drink on the rocks in the boat than have a boat on the rocks in the drink. Been there, done that, no bueno.


Posted By: aokcaldwell
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 12:41am
When I try to remove the large threaded bolt on the old cable at the stern the housing just spins inside the clamp. Is it clockwise or counterclockwise? Can I use visegrips?

AC.

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aok142
1999 NSS
GT40 Pro Boss


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 1:05am
Lefty loosey....Righty tighty
Channel Locks would be my tool of choice.

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: aokcaldwell
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 10:58am
Thought it might have been reverse thread. Thanks. Used channel locks. Found that CC stripped the housing the cable fits into and secures at the stern;starboard side. I'll call Woody and get a new one. Other than that no problems. This is a do it your selfer. The dealers around here (Northern IN) get about $575 to $625 installed!

While the center floor is out, is there any maintenance to the rudder?

AC.

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aok142
1999 NSS
GT40 Pro Boss


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 1:00pm
Originally posted by aokcaldwell aokcaldwell wrote:

While the center floor is out, is there any maintenance to the rudder?

Might be a good opportunity to change the packing while youre in there. Not sure of the size used in '95- might want to call Woody on that one. My '90 took 5/16" for both driveshaft and rudder.

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Posted By: aokcaldwell
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 1:44pm
Thanks, I'll look at it while it's apart!

AC.

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aok142
1999 NSS
GT40 Pro Boss


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 2:14pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:


Channel Locks would be my tool of choice.


Channel Locks: Or depending on how old you are and what part of the country you live in, you may call them "water pump pliers"!! Right Doc!!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 2:19pm
Did not want to "throw him a curve" with the phrase "WATER PUMP PLIERS"
Adjustable slip joint pliers, I think, is the proper term.
But the term is not the point..........

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 2:50pm
RIB joint 'doc!

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 3:21pm
For anyone who hasn't made a donation to the site, I think the Boat Dr. has a nice solution for those cumbersome pliers!

http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8681&PN=1 - The Boat Dr's Drivetrain Wrench

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 4:43pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

For anyone who hasn't made a donation to the site, I think the Boat Dr. has a nice solution for those cumbersome pliers!

http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8681&PN=1 - The Boat Dr's Drivetrain Wrench

Just to clarify, the Doc's wrenches are for the packing nuts, not the steering cable nuts.

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 5:57pm
I stand corrected, thanks TRB. Guess I was caught up in the promo. It's a cool thing Billy did.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 6:28pm
Just a note as to my intentions,
Did not do this for the kudo's
Did not do this for the attention
Did not do this for monetary gain
Did do this cause it felt like the right thing to do for This Site.......
Did do this cause I don't put the time into this site that Keith does.
Did this cause "Sharing Feels Good Too"

      Happy Joyous And Free


"You Can't Keep It If You Don't Give It Away"

-------------
boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: ellisaudio
Date Posted: May-25-2012 at 1:08pm
After reading a few discussion topics regarding steering cable replacement, and replacing my steering cable, I would like to offer my 2c.

The prevailing sentiment seems to be that pulling the old cable from under the dash should work best. It didn't work for me. My 89' 2001 has a curve in the cable routing tunnel under the drivers seat. I could NOT get the old cable around this curve. This is the result:



I managed to BEND the stiff end of the old cable that nominally attaches to to rudder. And, I never managed to get the old cable removed this way. BAH!!!

So, I decided to pull the old cable from the back and remove it successfully. I tied a rope to the old cable before pulling:



After I managed to remove the old cable I tied the rope to the new cable above the nut:



I then taped the rope to the floppy end of the cable to protect the cable and to provide a proper lead:



This method worked VERY well for me.

I apologize for the fuzzy pictures, I probably managed to get some grease on the camera lens of my phone.

So, for me, pulling the cable from the back and inserting the new cable from the back worked wonderfully well !!

Thanks to all that post in this discussion forum and contribute to the excellent Nautique heritage - especially TRJBenj



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David Ellis
1989 Ski Nautique
Perfect Pass,
Crane Ignition
Wide Band O2 - Tuned Carb


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-25-2012 at 1:14pm
David, glad to hear you got it done!

Not sure why you thought pulling the cable out from the front would be the preferred method though (unless maybe it was a R&P system). I would have suggested doing it exactly as you did. Much easier if you dont have to pull the bulky rudder end through the conduit.

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Posted By: ellisaudio
Date Posted: May-25-2012 at 2:49pm
I can't convey any of the differences with regard to the steering configuration. Most of the forum discussion(s) conveyed that guys would tie the rope to the rudder connection hole, then pull from the front.

And the steering is silky smooth !!

-------------
David Ellis
1989 Ski Nautique
Perfect Pass,
Crane Ignition
Wide Band O2 - Tuned Carb


Posted By: Polar Express
Date Posted: May-28-2012 at 1:19am
happy to see this thread...I have a '96, and my steering is heavy while at speed, but seems fine at idle. Maybe it's the cable... ??? hope so...

Since I haven't even looked at it yet, do the OE ones, or the replacements have zerks to grease them?

PE

-------------
1996 Sport Nautique



This is America, if you don't like it, go conquer another country, and start your own.

I'll keep my God, my guns and my freedom, Barry can keep his 'change'


Posted By: ellisaudio
Date Posted: May-28-2012 at 5:26pm
My new cable was a CC product, and did not have a grease czerk. I don't know if other aftermarket cables have a czerk.

I did add a grease czerk to my rudder housing last summer. I think this helped somewhat, but the impact was relatively minimal. I did notice a fair amount of scratchy wear on the rudder when I removed it. I hope the grease will minimize this wear.

Dave

-------------
David Ellis
1989 Ski Nautique
Perfect Pass,
Crane Ignition
Wide Band O2 - Tuned Carb


Posted By: johnsugar
Date Posted: October-20-2015 at 7:24pm
Thanks for those who have contributed here as it helped me replace my steering cable on my 95SN. Now I have a question and can't find out an answer after a search.

I want to put a grease zerk on the rudder box but want to add an 18" extension pipe with the grease fitting at the end so I can access it for lubrication easily. Anyone has info on how to do this? Thanks, John


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-20-2015 at 7:47pm
John,
Remote lube points are common when access to zerk fittings is blocked. I suggest copper tubing compression fittings and then a coupling or better yet a bulkhead fitting at the remote zerk. I don't recommend a rigid 18" extension since it would be to easy to break off.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: johnsugar
Date Posted: October-20-2015 at 7:52pm
Thank you! What I don't know is how a permanent extension would attach to the zerk. What part would go over the zero and stay on?


Posted By: ellisaudio
Date Posted: October-20-2015 at 7:52pm
I placed my zerk immediately on the post that houses the rudder. I simply drilled and tapped the post (without the rudder present) and screwed-in the zerk. This works fine and isn't too much of a hassle to access. I grease my rudder every 10 - 20 hours and this is probably overkill. I do think the zerk and grease makes the rudder move easier in the housing.

In my 89 Ski Nautique there really isn't a place to mount an external zerk an plumb a copper hose setup to the rudder housing.   I'd worry about breaking the plumbing hose for the zerk.

My 2c,

Dave

-------------
David Ellis
1989 Ski Nautique
Perfect Pass,
Crane Ignition
Wide Band O2 - Tuned Carb


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-20-2015 at 8:41pm
Originally posted by johnsugar johnsugar wrote:

Thank you! What I don't know is how a permanent extension would attach to the zerk. What part would go over the zero and stay on?

1/8" pipe thread is a common size for a zerk fitting. Drill and tap the rudder port 1/8" pipe, Then a 1/8" male to 1/4" tube compression fitting. The 1/4" copper tubing. Another 1/8" pipe to 1/4" compression. A 1/4" pipe coupling and then the zerk. There should be enough room between the zerk hex and the coupling for about a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum for a mount. Drill a 13/32" hole in it for the zerk and then holes for whatever screws you want to mount it with.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-20-2015 at 8:47pm
Originally posted by ellisaudio ellisaudio wrote:

In my 89 Ski Nautique there really isn't a place to mount an external zerk an plumb a copper hose setup to the rudder housing.   I'd worry about breaking the plumbing hose for the zerk.
Dave

Dave,
Enough room? You just haven't looked. How about several extra feet of copper and mount it next to the engine under the dog house? If you are worried about breaking a 1/4" piece of copper tubing, I suggest you never lift the dog house for anything.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: ellisaudio
Date Posted: October-21-2015 at 10:40am
Your poke is fair.

I have some issues, and a bias too.

I am complicated.

Issues:

I have a very mild oil leak from the valve cover gaskets that I already replaced. I lose some oil in the bilge and I wipe my bilge with paper towels every 5-10 hours of use. I don't want another floppy piece of hose that I have to wipe around in my bilge. This would simply be another tedious annoyance that I don't want to mess with.

I purchased a new grease gun http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKTFO/ref=pe_1098610_137716200_cm_rv_eml_rv0_dp" rel="nofollow - Lincoln Grease Gun for my Marine grease and the nozzle is darn stubborn. Either the nozzle leaks (too loose) or the nozzle is darn difficult to release (too tight). I don't have this problem with my other guns. Candidly, I really like my John Deere grease gun. // In any event, the nozzle for my Marine grease gun is so darn tight that I managed to pull a zerk from the trailer shackle bolts. It was press-fit and I managed to pull it out while attempting to remove the nozzle from the zerk. So.... my problem wouldn't be where to run the hose, but also where to MOUNT the zerk - in a very solid fashion. //   When the grease in the Lincoln gun expires, I will be tossing it in the garbage and buying another John Deere gun. Even with a good grease gun, I would feel the need to mount the zerk on some sort of angle iron bolted to the block. Sure, there is a way to do this, but why mess with it....

My bias:

Perhaps I should have been more direct (and thorough) initially...

Mounting the zerk on the rudder housing is soooooo easy and works sooooo well. I really don't see any valid reason to do anything else. Accessing the housing takes about 30 seconds and the zerk is very solid.

My 2c,

-------------
David Ellis
1989 Ski Nautique
Perfect Pass,
Crane Ignition
Wide Band O2 - Tuned Carb


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-21-2015 at 11:45am
David,
What type of valve cover gasket did you use? There's a possibility that you over torqued the bolts? The valve covers can get warped and cause a problem at times.

Sorry to hear about your problem with the Lincoln gun. I consider the brand to be the best but, who knows, maybe they too are having them made over China! Buy a new tip (zerk coupling) for it and see if it works better before going with the Deere. It too may be made over there now?

My suggestion for the remote zerk, was to build it using 1/4" copper tubing. I don't consider it to be "floppy". If anyone does go this route, I'd also suggest fastening the tubing to a stringer with tube clamps. Yes, keeping the zerk firmly attached and anchored is important for attaching and detaching the gun. A bulkhead fitting internally taped for 1/8" pipe anchored to a substantial bracket would be the ultimate.



It's great you can access your rudder port zerk so easily. Some can't. and the reson for the remote zerks.

Are we ever going to see some pictures of you boat?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: johnsugar
Date Posted: October-22-2015 at 10:23am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by johnsugar johnsugar wrote:

Thank you! What I don't know is how a permanent extension would attach to the zerk. What part would go over the zero and stay on?

1/8" pipe thread is a common size for a zerk fitting. Drill and tap the rudder port 1/8" pipe, Then a 1/8" male to 1/4" tube compression fitting. The 1/4" copper tubing. Another 1/8" pipe to 1/4" compression. A 1/4" pipe coupling and then the zerk. There should be enough room between the zerk hex and the coupling for about a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum for a mount. Drill a 13/32" hole in it for the zerk and then holes for whatever screws you want to mount it with.
Sorry it's upside down.

Thank you for taking the time to respond. I'm a greenhorn with this so I don't completely understand. I want an extension that is flexible so copper tubing might not be a good idea. My rudder box on the 95SN is hard to access with a fuel tank drop down right in front of it.
It will be hard to get the drill gun back there and also wrenches to drop the rudder but I will manage.. I just want to be able to grease the box without having to remove the floorboard. I intend to have a flexible hose that sticks out where there is a space just aft of the center floorboard and the fuel tank...it's a good spot that I can get to easy. Of course I can run a line to the engine compartment too. Am I putting in a zerk directly on the rudder box with an attachment that will stay on it or would I be attaching some other fitting on the rudder box?


Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: October-22-2015 at 12:11pm
Does this boat have a zerk fitting on the rudder box to start, or no?

Nautiqueparts does sell a ready made remote access kit. Albeit, it's pretty darn expensive for what it is. It looks like the hose would just thread in in place of the zerk, then you put the other end where it's convenient for you. I've considered getting the longer, V-Drive, version so I could run it all the way to up under my motorbox.

http://www.nautiqueparts.com/rudderportservicewhip51incbracket.aspx" rel="nofollow - http://www.nautiqueparts.com/rudderportservicewhip51incbracket.aspx


Posted By: johnsugar
Date Posted: October-22-2015 at 12:27pm
No Zerk.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-22-2015 at 12:32pm
John,
What is your though about wanting a flex line? Copper tubing is pretty flexible but rubber or plastic is an option as well.

Also, why do you want to grease the port? Not all like yours have the feature. In fact, when it comes to history, the greasable port on small craft is relatively new.

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: johnsugar
Date Posted: October-22-2015 at 12:36pm
Info from other threads says that SN changed to remove the zerk for a number of years due to environmental regulations. The rudder box eventually dries out and steering is stiff. Many owners have added a zerk. Thanks for the link. I sent my question to nautiqueparts as it looks like they may carry what I need. I will post here with what they say.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-22-2015 at 12:43pm
Originally posted by johnsugar johnsugar wrote:

Info from other threads says that SN changed to remove the zerk for a number of years due to environmental regulations. The rudder box eventually dries out and steering is stiff. Many owners have added a zerk.

So, the EPA want's you to pump grease into the lake? . What other sites have you been to where adding a zerk is suggested? BTW, none of my boats have EVER had stiff steering due to a dried out port. In fact, none of any boat I've ever worked on has had one ether? If your steering is stiff, have you isolated the cause? Cables are a known issue.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: johnsugar
Date Posted: October-22-2015 at 12:48pm
Sorry I didn't save the other forum messages. I have already replaced the steering cable and it is infact my rudder box that is dried out. It is apparently common for my model year as well as some others. I also read that the environmental concern was not valid and the zerk for greasing was re-introduced at some point. I'm not an expert, just passing on what I have found out.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-22-2015 at 3:31pm
John,
Have you done or considered a port repack?

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: jhersey29
Date Posted: October-22-2015 at 5:27pm
Several posts have been made referencing CC cables. CC does not make cables. They are mostly Teleflex/Seastar I just want to clarify this incase someone spends hours trying to find CC cables.


Posted By: johnsugar
Date Posted: October-22-2015 at 6:56pm
Yes I considered repacking. It's difficult to access so I decided to put in the remote zerk at the same time so next time (if there is one) it will be easy. The link you posted was perfect and is the part I need. I got my question answered. I must drill and tap a 1/4"-28 size threaded hole for the part. I'm all set.

Yes, CC doesn't make the cable. Teleflex makes one that is a perfect fit. I didn't have to modify or change a thing to my original set up. It's on this link in case anyone needs it.
http://www.nautiqueparts.com/steeringcableallnautiquesfrom1993to1997.aspx


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-22-2015 at 7:23pm

Yes, CC doesn't make the cable. Teleflex makes one that is a perfect fit. I didn't have to modify or change a thing to my original set up. It's on this link in case anyone needs it.

As you can see under their important note, all '95's are not the same. Always consult your parts professional I converted mine from the old narrower style to the newer one requiring a new helm base. If I ever need another new cable the wider style is the less expensive cable. It's also a good idea to lubricate your helm and base when you have it apart,mine was dry and added to the hard steering.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-22-2015 at 8:04pm
Originally posted by jhersey29 jhersey29 wrote:

Several posts have been made referencing CC cables. CC does not make cables. They are mostly Teleflex/Seastar I just want to clarify this incase someone spends hours trying to find CC cables.

You are very correct they don't make the cables. However, if you read farther, you will note that the cables are a specific length that are made for CC and only available from CC. Lets see, I don't think CC makes the vinyl, the resin, the fiberglass, the engine, the instrumentation, the windshield, all the bronze parts, the prop, the graphics, the rub rails, the carpet, the helm wheel, the batteries, the fasteners, the key pads, the bilge pump, the bilge blower, thr gas shocks, the hatch hinges, the helm throttle/shift, the exhaust tip(s) or the flotation foam. I'm sure I missed lots that CC purchases.

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: jhersey29
Date Posted: October-23-2015 at 2:16pm
Pete, you completely missed the point. But lets keep.the thread on track. I'm pretty sure CC doesn't buy anything but office supplies, accounting, computers etc. Nautique and their other subsidiaries might however purchase those items CC is a holding company.


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-23-2015 at 3:30pm
Sure now they are but the boats in question were.built by the Meloons

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: johnsugar
Date Posted: October-30-2015 at 7:49pm
Update.
Got the zerk and extension put in. Night and Day. I probably didn't even need to replace the cable. Dry rudder box was definitely the issue. The 95 is hard to access without tank removal but I was able to drill t and thread the hole without taking the rudder off at all. I don't recommend doing it as it would be easy to drill too far but it worked for me.


Posted By: ellisaudio
Date Posted: October-30-2015 at 7:57pm
Thanks for the update.

Your data point is very good to know.

I did my rudder grease zerk and steering cable at the same time.



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David Ellis
1989 Ski Nautique
Perfect Pass,
Crane Ignition
Wide Band O2 - Tuned Carb



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