Gel Spraying Techniques
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5288
Printed Date: June-04-2024 at 6:24am
Topic: Gel Spraying Techniques
Posted By: SkiBum
Subject: Gel Spraying Techniques
Date Posted: December-01-2006 at 10:41am
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What type of sprayer should I use to apply gel over a large area of the boat? I'll guess and say not an automotive sprayer.
How do I make sure it is the right thickness? Can I apply several thin coats or does it need to be all in one spray? Worse yet, is this something that can only be done at a boat yard because of the extensive amount of equipment and experience required? ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-02-2006 at 7:12am
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Skibum, The spray gun isn't anthing special but it does have to be set up for the gel coat. The fluid tip, nozzel, air cap, etc, needs to be the correct combination for the viscoscity. A gravity feed gun can be used but the problem with this type is it doesn't hold much material so you need to refill it offen. A 2 quart pressure feed gun with remote cup is better. A siphon feed gun can be used but the gel needs to be reduced so much and the air pressure real high to get it through the gun that I wouln't recommend it. The film thickness will be recomended by the gel manufacturer and how much the gel has been reduced but generally is greater than 22 mils. There are film thicness gauges available to check it. If you haven't sprayed much, this is not a job that I would recomend you practice on. Pete ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: December-04-2006 at 11:06am
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if you can find a shulz (im not sure of the spelling) its used for spraying thicker viscosity liquids, I use this type of gun for spraying undercoatings and bedliners and I'll even mix resin and spray it that way but you do have to clean the gun in a hurry ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: December-04-2006 at 7:26pm
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When applying the gel, is it all done in one 22 mil thick spray? ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: Tomski
Date Posted: December-05-2006 at 4:35am
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I know you guys are still using imperial in the states, but 22mm is some thick gel, you'll be lucky to get that on without a few runs!
Skibum, has the old gel been removed? If not then paint it, gel is a nightmare to work with if you are going about it backwards, ie gel last, it's a pain in dea$$ to sand if you don't get it right first time. ------------- Easily Parted From Money |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-05-2006 at 12:36pm
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Tomski, Yes, 22 mil is quite heavy but the gel needs to be quite heavy. It doesn't have very much pigment in it like paint does so it has very low hiding qualities. All repairs must be color matched as close as possible. You also need quite a build since it does require a lot of wet sanding to remove the orange peel. With a pot life of better than 3 hours, several coats can be applied with time between the coats to allow the vehicle to flash off. Pete ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-05-2006 at 12:45pm
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Tomski, I just noticed that you questioned a gel thickness of 22mm. Please note that I had posted the gel thickness of 22mil. which is .022 of a inch or in your case .5588mm , Pete ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: December-05-2006 at 6:30pm
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The gel is still on the boat. I have not yet began to grind/sand/whatever to remove the gel. My first inclination was to repair the areas with spider cracks and fix a repair from the previous owner. Somebody posted that it may be better to just remove all the gel and start again. I have also been told I could actually use automotive paints, finishing with several layers of clear coat. I have painted several cars/trucks but never sprayed gel. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: Tomski
Date Posted: December-06-2006 at 5:17am
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8122,
That expalins it! Transatlantic communication issues! I think we'd call that 22thou here. Britain is a terrible place for measurement as we are part metric and part imperial. It's becoming more metric, but older people still work in imperial and people of my age (mid 30's) use both. I tend to just use what is most convenient for whatever i'm measuring. Skibum, I say paint it if it star cracks and old repairs. Pretty much all coloured boats of any size are painted from the factory - sunseeker, princess etc. Awl Grip (american, i think) is the stuff, not easy to spray (but still a lot easier than gel) anf very tough and a fantastic shine, especially in dark colours. ------------- Easily Parted From Money |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-06-2006 at 7:25am
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Skibum, If you are going to do all the repairs required to paint the whole boat, then I would lean towards gel instead. If you have sprayed paint before then it may not take much to learn to spray the gel. Yes, the poly paints are fantastic but they are still paint. My background is mostly in wood boats so I'm very aware of the care and caution required on a painted / varnished surfaces.
The reference to removal of all the gel was if you have lots of blistering, spider and stress cracking that tells you the whole gel surface is bad. It's going to be a judgement call on your part but remember that if it's gel or paint, both depend on what's under it. Tomski, I think you should move over here and then the communication issue wouldn't be a problem!! Ha Ha, we have to deal with 2 systems as well! Pete ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: December-07-2006 at 11:29am
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Jumping in this thread late (and only read part of it, so sorry if I am repeating what others have already said). I personally recommend automotive type suction feed spray guns. Anything larger than the typical auto gun will be very problematic as you will have a hard time spraying more gel before it hardens in the gun. I tend to spray only a 1/2 pint at a time. The gelcoat MUST be thinned with Styrene (and ONLY Styrene) to a consistancy compatible with the auto spray gun. The gel is not harmed by thinning with Styrene and will harden just fine. If you have a large area, do NOT add wax to the gelcoat, so you can simply spray on the next coat. Add wax to the gelcoat on the final coat. A bit more catalyst is required when thinning gelcoat, so I suggest a test spray before the first time.
I also found that the small touchup spray guns worked the best, and I ended up using the small gun exclusively. I found the gun the held just the right amount of gel to not worry about the gel hardening in the gun before I could get it all sprayed. I honestly forget what pressure I would spray at, but if memory serves it was about 35psi. Just make sure all the seals in the gun are good and tight (especially around the tip rod)and the gel will draw just fine. A final thought: do NOT apply gelcoat in temperatures below 65 degrees. If you do, you will be wiping most of it off with Acetone as it will most likely not cure. If you catalyze the gel so it will harden below 65 degrees, then you will boil the gel and it will most likely harden in the gun within minutes. A final final thought: When spraying gelcoat, it is best to apply the gelcoat in a overlapping circular motion...sort of like welding. This differs from spraying a car with a side to side overlapping motion. So, this means a more circular pattern out of the gun is preferable to a wide fan pattern. You are trying to build thickness without runs. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-07-2006 at 12:38pm
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David, Thanks for the input. I must be spraying larger areas than you! What kind of pot life are you getting? I get my shop and work area up to at least 75 degrees so maybe I'm not catalyizing as much.Pete ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: December-07-2006 at 12:54pm
I only mix a quantity of gelcoat that I can spray in 30 minutes. After that, I start getting nervous. Then I have to have time to clean the gun  Again, I think a quantity that can be held via a normal suction type automotive sprayer can be used, but larger quantities and man I would be a nervous wreck or try to work too fast and make more work for myself later.
The largest area I sprayed was the front half of the port side of my '93 SN...or just in front of the "S" to the tip of the bow. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-07-2006 at 1:29pm
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David, Now I remember your post and the repair you did on your 93SN. Nice job,looks great,Pete ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: December-08-2006 at 4:50pm
Where do you get your gel, wax, and styrene? ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
David F wrote:Posted By: David F
Date Posted: December-08-2006 at 5:16pm
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http://www.uscomposites.com/ - US Composites ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2006 at 7:51am
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skibum, U S Composites are good for matching late model CC gel. You may have to buy a gal. if they need to mix a color. Mini-Craft of Florida has a standard line of hundreds of colors as well as matching gel pastes for patching both available in qts. If you are doing the whole boat, then a gal. is the way to go. Pete ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: December-09-2006 at 4:10pm
Applying gel to the entire boat. Do I spray multiple layers over the entire boat until the desired thickness is obtained ... or do I build a small area, say 24-36 square inches at a time. Also, when I tape over an area because it will be a different color, once I have sprayed the other color, do I somehow trim off at the union of the two colors - or is there a trick? ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-10-2006 at 8:12am
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Skibum, The entire boat is sprayed with the base color then the accent color is masked and sprayed just like you would do a car or truck. For bild, mutiple lite coats can be sprayed with time between them for the vehicle (solvent) to flash off.
I don't recall you ever posting what year and model boat are you doing? Keep it original, Pete ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: December-10-2006 at 9:03am
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Pete,
She is an 87 SN. Next week I start the floor/stringer repair. When I finish, I hope to tackle the stress and spider crack repair. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-10-2006 at 3:19pm
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Skibum, Am I correct that the boat has two colors of gel and then vinyl stripping between the two colors and then the "2001" is in vinyl too? If you can't find OEM vinyl grafics, a sign shop can duplicate it from a tracing of the old. I just picked up some on Friday that I had made for my 77 Tique. It's amazing what they can do by scanning the tracing and then with CAD clean it up and add any colors and borders etc. Pete ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: December-10-2006 at 9:20pm
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You are correct. What do you think about this plan? The base color is some light grey. The main stripe is a blue. The blue is in very good condition. I was thinking about using a dremel tool to carefully trace around the SKI NAUTIQUE and 2001 decals, remove the decals, then remove the remaining gel. Next, I would paint the background of the lettering silver and apply gel with metal flakes into the carved out lettering. The lettering would become an integral part of the boat finish. Then I would grind off only the grey and apply new gel. Once finished, I would wet sand and buff the whole thing, bringing out the origional beauty of the blue, blending the new gel lettering and grey gel.
Is it a great idea or what? ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: December-10-2006 at 9:26pm
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I have to quantify the clear gel with metal flakes spraying technique. By painting the base silver, it provides the base for the color. Then, I would cook up a batch of clear thick with metal flakes and apply a uniform coat. The remaining coats of gel would be only clear. That way the metal flakes would not be toward the surface. But the flakes would shine through. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-11-2006 at 6:04am
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Skibum, I think that your idea is "easier said than done". Although recreating the hull grafics in gel rather than vinyl is a sound idea but not original (the purest in me again) I don't think you can rout by hand without some kind of template close enough. You may have a steadier hand than I but I think you should go the vinyl route. Pete ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-11-2006 at 6:43am
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Skibum, One thing to keep in mind about "customizing" is that I feel it may not look as good to other people that it does to you. It may even affect it's resale value and it's saleability. This is why I always suggest originality as close to as it was from the factory as posible. There are instances especially on older boats where the materials are no longer available but close matches can be made. I've see some real bad jobs out there that the first thing that comes to peoples minds is "why the @!# did he do that" The worst I think is a 1958 Atom that has been fibergla$$ed and painted. He probably didn't know what he was doing to a cla$$ic wood boat!
It sounds like you have made the decision that the gel is in bad enough shape that it's got to go. When fairing the hull be careful what you use for filling/fairing since gel may not stick to some epoxies. Pete ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: December-11-2006 at 9:11am
You can apply on color over the next, but you will be left with a ridge or step between the two colors. This step will show through the vinyl stripping. So, what I did was mask off the line between colors. Sprayed one color then immediately pulled the tape. If you leave the tape until after the gel starts to kick, then it will tear the gel and leave a ragged line. Once the first color cures, wipe with acetone and give it an initial sanding to remove the orange peel. Then tape off the edge and spray the second color next to it. You will most likely not end up with a perfect line, but it will be coplaner and the vinyl will hide it perfectly. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-11-2006 at 4:37pm
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Skibum, David F is correct that masking tape will tear the gel line if it is removed after the gel cures BUT I always leave mine on the boat. Since you need to wet sand anyway, you can sand off what gel is on top of the tape untill the tape edge is exposed. This method keeps you from sanding beyond the area into where you don't want to sand plus if you need to give it another coat of gel, you won't need to remask. The tape will come off with a sharp clean gel line. Always use FINE LINE tape. If you are putting vinly over this line, the ridge from the gel can be knocked off with some wet dry. Pete ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: December-11-2006 at 7:03pm
I understand that by deviating from the origional there are many risks. I also realize that it will be very difficult to cut the letters out. All valid arguments against such an endeavor.
The boat suffers from a lot of spider cracks and long stress cracks. I will fix the floor and stringers. I have not yet decided to apply new gel. Previously I planned to patch but there were a number of people who said if there was enough cracking, then just do the whole thing. I certainly appreciate all of your input. I am much more informed now. Thank you. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: CC Fan
Date Posted: December-14-2006 at 8:52pm
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8122pbrainard where did you get the vinyl for your tique done? I have a 78 tique that I need vinyl for and there is not enough lettering left to make a trace.
Roger ------------- 1978 Ski Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-15-2006 at 5:42am
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CC FAN, You may not have a problem if there isn't enough of the original to trace. You can get some of the tracing off one side and then reverse the paper and get more from the other side? Do you know anyone in your area with the same boat? The more the grafics the CAD operator has to work with the better. I do know they can do wonders with cleaning up and "fudging" in. The tracing does not need to have continuouse lines on it. They will connect the missing areas. It may cost more since more time is required at the computer and you may want to be there when it's being done. Do ask to proof the work before they cut the vinyl. Look for sign shops and/or firms that do grafics for trucks. Where are you? Pete ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: January-14-2007 at 8:46pm
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What has to be done to prepare the surface for the polyester gelcoat? I have been told poly does not stick to epoxy. Is that only for resins?
Thanks ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-15-2007 at 6:17am
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SkiBum, Stick with the epoxy for structural repairs and the polyesters for the gel repairs and you won't have any problems. If you do or have used epoxy for the repair of cracks in the gel, then you will need to prime first with a vinyl ester before the poly ester gel. Call your supplier and tell them exactly the products you have used to make sure what to apply next. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: January-15-2007 at 9:20am
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The boat has more repairs than a 1972 Harley Davidson on a cross country road trip. I am thinking grind, sand, then use the vinyl ester primer as a foundation for the polyester gelcoat. Thanks. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: January-15-2007 at 9:32am
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The polyester gel coat will stick to epoxy repairs a$$uming certain things have been done:
1. After the epoxy has cured, wipe it down liberally with Acetone to remove the oily residue that forms on the surface of cured epoxy (I forget the name of this residue). Do this before sanding so you do not sand the residue into the surface. 2. Roughen the surface of the epoxy with 60 grit or heavier paper to provide tooth for a good mechanical bond with the gel coat. 3. Wipe again with acetone to remove sanding dust, etc. Now you can apply the gel coat without worries. When the boats are constructed, the gelcoat is first sprayed into the mold. Then, before the gel coat has fully cured, the fibergla$$ composite is laid up. This result in a chemical bond between the polyester gelcoat and the polyester resin. However, with epoxy resins, you cannot create this chemical bond. Correct Craft uses a modified epoxy resin that will chemically bond with the polyester gel coat. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-15-2007 at 10:36am
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SkiBum, I feel the vinyl ester primer is the way to go. It will stick to the epoxy and the poly ester gel will stick to it. It is one of the steps used to repair osmonic blistering on boats that sit in the water year round. The primer can also be tinted close to the finish color of the gel so you won't be trying to hide as much (repairs) with the gel only.
David, I think the word you are looking for is a "amine blush". It is by the way water soluable so it can be washed off with soap and water. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: January-15-2007 at 10:51am
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Yep, that it...important thing is to get rid of it. ------------- |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: January-15-2007 at 1:42pm
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Amine blush can be greatly reduced or eliminated completely by using a heat lamp if the surface can be heated to 100* f until fully cured 24 hr. or so. (Epon 828 10% DTA) ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: January-15-2007 at 2:34pm
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The smart guy at US Composites was in favor of the vinyl ester as well. I keep the garage at a min of 80 f but I don't have a way to get 100 f. For my stringer repair I have been using acetone to clean the areas I used epoxy but I did this after sanding.
Thanks for the help. I'll start in an area that cant be seen and work my way out into the open. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: January-15-2007 at 6:07pm
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If it's cool in my garage I bag the repair by taping a tarp around it . Then use a spring clamp portable light fixture with a 125 watt heat lamp it keeps the area warm overnight.It will keep the whole interior "toasty". ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: January-15-2007 at 7:16pm
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Just might have to try that. Thanks ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 8:36am
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Started spraying gelcote on the inside of the boat (where it would be covered by combing pads and the back seat when the boat is put together). I have a few questions:
1. How long do I wait before spraying the next coat or layer of gelcote? (While it is still wet? Only after it dries?) 2. Can I do something that will minimize the amount of orange peel that results? 3. When sanding, can I first use an orbital sander and knock down the orange peel, then wet sand? (If not, what is the roughest paper I should use to wet sand?) Thank you. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 8:42am
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Bill, you can definitely be more aggressive than the 600 youve been using. I went down to 320 on my deck to restore the color. ------------- |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 9:25am
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Bill:
Nothing can be done to minimize orange peel. You want to thin the gelcoat with Styrene only as much as is necessary to let you spray it and no more. I start sanding with 120 grit to knock down the orange peel. I use: Tracer, 120, tracer, 220, tracer, 320, tracer 400, 600, 800, compound, polish, wax. Sanding block until 400 grit. If you find that you sanded through the gelcoat or have a low spot, then I suggest that you continue sanding with at least 320 grit and make sure ALL the tracer is removed, even if you have to sand without the block. Do NOT gelcoat over any remaining tracer, or it will show at the blend line. BTW, I am a fan of only hand sanding as the sanding machines can get you in trouble quick. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 10:38am
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Skibum, You're finally getting to the spraying. Great progress. I've been watching what you have been doing and feel you've gone beyond what most would do. Great job!
2nd coats of gel can be sprayed as soon as most of the solvent (styrene) has flashed off. This can be in as little as 20 minutes but it depends on the heat and humidity. David is right that nothing can be done with the orange peel except sand it off after it cures. If you reduce it too much, you will not get the dry film build that is needed. The stuff doesn't like to be sprayed. It's like trying to spray a solvent based contact cement. The wet sanding is going to be time consuming. You will need to get a feel for what grit paper you can start with and feel comfortable that you won't sand too far. Only HARD block sand untill the orange peel is removed. This can be tricky on concave and convex surfaces. I have used all sorts of things laying around to use as shaped sanding blocks. If you use your orbital first, you will be left with orange peel bumps. Go with the hard block wet first. When you get the orange peel knocked off, there are 2 products that woodworkers supply carries that I have found to be very helpfull. They are hook and loop sanding pads that will go on your random orbit electric sander that can be used wet. They are available from 320 to 10,000 grit. I gave up on my air DA sander simply because I don't have a 20HP compressor to keep up with it! With the electric in one hand and a spray bottle of water in the other, it really speeds this up. You also don't sand off the skin on you fingers! I've done so much that I don't think I have any finger prints anymore!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 11:01am
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I should have included that I start wet sanding at 400 grit. My material of choice for a hard block is varying lenghts of wood corner moulding. Corner molding has rounded edges that will not dig in and the 90 degree angle gives me two sanding surfaces and a great hand hold.
On flat surfaces, I have a used a palm sander with good results. Still, 90% of the sanding on my project was done by hand. ------------- |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 11:13am
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Thanks to both of you. I really appreciate your expertise. I do not know what "tracer" means. Can you explain that one to me? Thank you again. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 11:39am
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Tracer - you spray a very light light coat of black spray paint over the gel, to expose the low spots. Than as you sand it down you can tell if the surface is becoming flat. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 7:30pm
Okay, got it. Thanks. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: February-25-2007 at 8:21pm
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I am in the process of grinding the gelcote off the boat. I take it all of the way to the gla$$ where there are stress cracks. In the other areas I grind it until I start to see the gla$$. Then I sand with 40 grit in preparation for the new gelcote.
I have two questions. First, do I need to take all of the gelcote off or is it sufficient to grind it to almost nothing. Second, when bare fibergla$$ is exposed, do I need to apply something to the surface before applying the gelcote? Thanks in advance. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: February-26-2007 at 9:38am
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No to both. I agree that you should sand to fibergla$$ where there are stress cracks. If no stress cracks, then you really only need to take off the surface of the existing gelcoat...i.e the oxidized part. If there is an area of significant stress cracking, then you may want to consider what I did. Since my boat was involved in a collision with rocks, the fibergla$$ that was not destroyed was severly flexed to the point the gelcoat was crazed/cracked like broken tempered gla$$. I ground off all the gelcoat and then brushed on very thin epoxy resin. I applied heat with a heat gun as I applied to make it flow better. My theory was that the thin and flowing resin would fill the stress cracks that were no doubt present in the fibergla$$ composite. Hopefully, this method would produce a strong enough mechanical bond within the composite to prevent future stress cracks within the new gelcoat. Two years later so far so good. The thinned resin was then faired out with bondo providing the final fairing. I found that grinding off the gelcoat created a very bumpy and irregular surface. bondo took care of the issue. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-26-2007 at 10:31am
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bkh- its a guide coat, the longer the sanding block the better, dont use a DA you'll have a tendency to dig with the edge of it and create valleys.make sure you use a good filler epoxy primer and blast it on there with 3 heavy coats, let it tach up between coats, then block sand with 180 then re-coat again. This makes it laser straight. this is what i do and i am not saying this is the way to do it, im merely just making suggestion and through trial and error over the years this what i found to work the best ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: February-26-2007 at 1:04pm
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I am not sure if I understand correctly, but here is my plan. On the exposed fibergla$$ I will apply thinned epoxy resin. Over that I will use Bondo filler. I will not sand all of the gelcote to the gla$$, only that with cracks. But I will apply resin to the areas where the cracks are located.
When grinding the gelcote I am able to make a reasonably smooth surface. Any indentations are taken out with the 40 grit. Now, there are low spots extending to the gla$$ that will need to be epoxied and filled. Eric, when you talk about using a long sanding block are you refering to sanding the new gelcote? ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: February-26-2007 at 7:58pm
I am going to build some boat stands. I did not have a chance to drive out to the lumber yard today. So, instead of grinding and sanding on the bottom I decided to work on the stern. My poor old boat has a ton of gelcote cracks. They are caused by the cracks in the fibergla$$ below the gelcote. I figure I am going to have to grind to the gla$$ on most of the boat. The stringers were terribly rotten and the floor was coming apart. I grinded, sanded, cleaned the garage, then used 202 and wiped the stern. I applied a layer of epoxy resin. I will scrub with a scratch pad and clean water when cured. Then I'll fill with Bondo and sand again. If I get away from work at a reasonable hour I'll pick up some materials to make stands. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-26-2007 at 8:49pm
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It almost looks like it's had part of the transom replaced at one point in time. Looks like distinct line in the gla$$ on both sides like a panel waas installed in the center. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: February-27-2007 at 7:48am
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I found major damage in the hull inside the boat during the stringer/floor repair. I also noticed that there was repaired damage under the boat. That probably accounts for all the cracks in the gla$$. Should be able to fix her up though. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-27-2007 at 8:11am
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Bill, I wonder if the cracks in the gla$$ below the gel were caused by moisture? Also keep in mind that Bondo is a polyester and it too will absorb water. For fairing, I think I would stick with the epoxy with a filler that is sanded easily. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: February-27-2007 at 9:19am
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Chris:
I believe the lines you see in that picture is the wood laminated into the transom from the factory. Whenever CC needs to mount something to the hull, they laminated in plywood so the screws would not penetrate the hull. The wood is installed early in the lamination process and I believe you are simple seeing the "print" through. If it was a previous repair, the blend line would not be straight. Bondo is a proven fairing compound under gelcoat. I do agree the majority of the fairing should be done with thickened epoxy, but the final fairing (fill minor low spots)with Bondo is acceptable. Remember, gelcoat is nothing more than glorified polyester resin. Bill: That lip/curl under the deck flange is a bear. Do not loose faith, you are making great progress. ------------- |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: February-27-2007 at 12:38pm
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You can definately see that where the wood was laminated into the stern the cracking is substantially reduced as apposed to where there is no wood backing. I applied one layer of epoxy resin to the stern. I'll do two more layers followed with a thin layer of Bondo that will be mostly sanded away. Will this create adhesion issues with the polyester gelcote? ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: February-27-2007 at 1:18pm
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You will be fine. However, I think after the first coat of VERY THIN epoxy is applied, any subsequent coats will have no added benefit as you have already sealed off the cracks. What you want to do is get the epoxy to flow into the cracks. Hence heating the epoxy, after application with a heat gun will help it flow better and get down into the cracks. ------------- |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: February-27-2007 at 9:43pm
I know it is a bad picture. Worked late tonight but I was determined to get the boat on stands. It was not the best job of boat stand making in the world. Two stands in the back, two toward the front, and two sets of blocks; one under the front and one under the back are supporting the boat now. The boat is stable, the system isn't pretty. Made a lot more room to work around the boat. David, I understand what you are saying about the heat gun and the epoxy. My first layer was 635 thin epoxy 3:1 with no fillers and the garage was 80f. I will start using a heat gun in future epoxy applications. I will keep plugging away. Thanks for all the help. I am sure I'll be asking more questions time progress. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-27-2007 at 10:14pm
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Bill you might want to make one more stand that you can adjust some. Your going to have to move them to get the spot under the current stands. Or just extend the boom on your hoist and then lift at the lift ring on the bow and then stern one at a time. Looking good though keep it up. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: February-28-2007 at 9:08am
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Pretty stands do not matter, function does. I am a bit worried for your safety that the stands appear to not have any fore/aft bracing. I am a bit concerned for the potential of the boat racking forward or rearward, especially if you remove the center blocking. ------------- |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: February-28-2007 at 12:05pm
This is a quick fix to the lateral brace issue on the stands. I will just have to make new stands with a wider base. 
My work days have increased from 12 to 16 hours a day. I am pressed for time for working on the boat. I managed to grind most of the driver side gel off. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: February-28-2007 at 9:12pm
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For the blue color I bought a gallon of nuetral gelcote and a 5oz jar of this blue stuff. There were no instructions. Do I just pour the blue stuff into the gallon can and mix the whole gallon at one time? ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 6:36am
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I would mix the colorant in all at one time because then you will not have to worry about all the color matching. It can sit forever like that because you haven't catalized it yet. Is the 5oz recomended for the whole gal.?
Wow Bill, You are sure making progress!! But now the fairing will slow things down some what. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 9:42am
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8122... is right. Mix a batch of gel in a sufficient quantity that is more than what you think you will use. If you have to mix more later, the color will NOT match. Use more or less colorant depending on the tone you are after. There probably is a maximum colorant to gel ratio, but I cannot remember what that might be. A gallon can handle the entire jar. I assume it is a jar that fits in the palm of your hand...say about 3-4 oz.
Your entire boat will use more than one gallon of gel. If you need to mix more than one gallon, then add the same amount of colorant to each gallon, then mix the gallons together and then you return the gel to the original gallon containers. Trust me on this...buy more than you think you will need. Alot of the gel is wasted for many reasons...cleaning equipment, not using all of the catalyzed batched, etc. ------------- |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 8:29pm
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David,
The primary color will be white. I have two and a half gallons on hand. The stripe will be blue. I have one gallon of nuetral and the 5oz jar of colorant. The US Composites guy said to pour the entire gallon into another container, then mix in the colorant, stir thoroughly, then put it back in the origional container. I know just the white gelcote work I did inside the boat on the gunnel consumed half a gallon of white gelcote. How much do you think it will take to do the boat? ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: March-02-2007 at 9:06am
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That is hard for me to say with certainty. I assume you are using pure pre-mixed white? If so, the color from can to can will be consistent enough to not worry. I am guessing you will ultimately use 5-6 gallons.
If one gallon of blue is enough, I am not sure of the need to mix in a seperate container and then return to the original container. Seems like a wasted step to me. If mixing more than one gallon, then sure that is the way to do it. ------------- |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: March-02-2007 at 9:16pm
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-02-2007 at 9:25pm
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87BFN, she gonna look good when she comes home tho..............boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: March-02-2007 at 10:05pm
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: March-04-2007 at 6:54pm
Managed to get a little work done today. Grinded off all the old gelcote on the driver side from stern to bow and halfway from front to back on the bottom. The passenger side is grinded to the front of the windshield none on the bottom yet. The stern was done some time ago. After three coats of epoxy resin (scrubbing with clean water and a green scratch pad each time) I applied a thin layer of Bondo on a small area. Once it cured I sanded. Turned out really good, so I applied Bondo to the remainder of the stern today. Should be able to sand in a few hours. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: farmer
Date Posted: March-04-2007 at 9:36pm
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Skibum,how many people are working on that boat of yours? You're making great progress.Keep plugging. Farmer |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-05-2007 at 5:31am
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Bill, What did you end up doing about a spray gun? Did you need to get a new one or did you get larger fluid and air caps for a exsisting? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: March-05-2007 at 8:00am
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I am the only one working on the boat. SkiBum Jr, SkiBum Juniorette, and Mrs. SkiBum don't want any part of the project. Well, Mrs. SkiBum has been very generous with the check book.
I actually bought one of those gelcote spray guns from US Composites. No need to thin the gelcote. Easy cleanup, just wipe the plate and swab the nozzle. Haven't yet figured out the best PSI and other adjustments. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-05-2007 at 10:16am
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Wow, I'll have to look at the gun.
I took a look at the gun. It sure looks simple. How's the spray pattern? It needs quite allot of psi per the stats so I would think it needs lots of air. How's the overspray? Keep me informed because I know what a pain it is to clean a conventional gun. Good luck and keep up the fantastic work. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: March-05-2007 at 8:13pm
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: March-05-2007 at 8:28pm
Here are the most recent pics. Grinded off the remaining gel from the left side of the boat. Now all that is left is under the boat, bow, and stern. Bow and stern will be easy. Under the boat sucks. As for that spray gun from US Composites. It is incredibly easy to maintain. There is a removable disk with a hole for the nozzle. Simply run the included brush through the nozzle and wipe the surface of the disk. I bought a pack of disposable "yogurt" cups that clamp to the gun. I have been trying to use 60psi, the lowest recommended. Any lower and the material does not want to come out. The gun gives a nice circular pattern that builds thickness quickly. My complaint is that from the high pressure it seems to create excessive orange peel. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-05-2007 at 9:20pm
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Jim, those shopping sprees can be expensive,but divorce even worse. Karen say's the same thing,she calls it girls day out. That Mom /Daughter thing. I am happy to do my time looking for daughter a car.
Speaking of Hi-Tek I an going polished too..boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-06-2007 at 8:29am
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Bill, Maybe you shoult try reducing the gel with some styrene and see what happens. You will never get rid of the orange peel totally but it may help. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: March-06-2007 at 8:54am
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It is worth a try, perhaps by thinning the gelcote it would somehow flow more smoothly. I would prefer to have all of the grinding, filling, and sanding finished before I start spraying. So it will be some time before I am spraying again. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: March-06-2007 at 8:02pm
On the side of the hull I used 26 grit fiber disks to grind the gelcoat to the glass. There are numerous stress cracks in the hull. I repaired the stringers and floor first. So I think that will prevent further cracking. After grinding the side of the hull I scrubbed it with a green scratch pad and clean water. Then I wiped it dry with paper towels. Next, I cranked up the heat in the garage to 85f. Then I applied a generous coating of vinyl ester resin. I chose this instead of epoxy for two reasons; first, the polyester gelcote and epoxy are not a good combination; second, I was hoping the vinyl ester resin would have more of a chemical bond seeping into the cracks. Tonight I applied a thin layer of Bondo to the side of the hull. Once sanded, I will have a very smooth, level surface that will bond well with the polyester gelcote. Or, I wasted a lot of effort. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-06-2007 at 9:27pm
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well lets hope all that effort was for a great end result, Keep plugging away at it little over two weeks till spring Bill. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-07-2007 at 6:25am
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Bill, Have you considered a coat of vinylester on top of the Bondo as a seal coat? I know the stuff is quite porous. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: March-07-2007 at 6:30am
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I imagine that would assist in the adhesion of the polyester gelcote and perhaps seal in the bondo...sounds like a valid idea. Is it over-kill? I know that not much Bondo will remain once I sand. I really dont know. Never done this before. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-07-2007 at 6:51am
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I have never used Bondo because I was always worried about its water absorbsion. Always stuck with the epoxy (then vinylester as a "conversion" before the gel) I know you will end up with quite a mil build with the gel but I think it will be sort of like painting a repaired wall without priming the patch first. The paint sucks into the area because it wasn't sealed. I know you will not be left with much Bondo after fairing but you may want to think about it to create a even surface before the gel. I know , it's another step that will involve time but you've done so much already. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: March-07-2007 at 9:15am
The only chemical bonding that will or has occurred was the day the boat was made. After that, all repairs are a mechanical bond whether using polyester or epoxy resin. Epoxy resin is by far the better adhesive between the two and that is what you need. The gelcoat will stick to the bondo without issue. You will not notice any difference between the areas that have bondo and the areas that do not. As far as bondo absorbing moisture, I never thought or read or heard that this is a problem. However, if the boat is stored in the water for long periods of time, I suppose this could be a problem as moisture will eventually find its way through gelcoat if the boat is left in the water. This is the main reason for gelcoat blisters. But, bondo is simply thickened polyester resin...so to me it will behave just like gelcoat which is also mainly polyester resin. So, in summary, the only place for polyester resin is the bondo and gelcoat; otherwise, stick (pun intended) wtih epoxy resin, especially when trying to seal the composite cracks. ------------- |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: March-07-2007 at 9:23am
This is not an issue...the gelcoat does not absorb into the bondo and if the bondo is faired properly, it will be impossible to tell where the bondo is once the gelcoat is applied. Remember, Skibum is using bondo as a final fairing, which means it is being used to fill minor low spots in the fiberglass due to the imprecision of grinding. He coated the entire surface as he does not know where those low spots are. He will sand through most of bondo using a long sanding block to bridge the low spots. Bondo is must easier to sand than thickened epoxy resin. Furthermore, bondo is a proven fairing compound (not just by me) when repairing fiberglass boats. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-07-2007 at 10:20am
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David, Thanks for the input. Like I said, I have never used the Bondo on fiberglass. I do use the epoxy with a fairing type filler / thickener that is as easy to sand as the Bondo. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: March-07-2007 at 12:53pm
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I suppose this is why people like me should not be allowed to use power tools. Kinda like giving a driver license to a six year old.
I still have not ground off the gel from all of the bottom. Once I do that is this the correct sequence? 1. Thin epoxy resin 2. Vinyl Ester resin 3. Bondo 4. Gelcote Do I need to sand all the way to the glass and then apply resin on the areas I already used vinyl ester resin then start over? ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: March-07-2007 at 1:48pm
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If it were me, I would just do the following:
1. brush on thinned epoxy resin and apply heat to help if flow into any cracks. 2. Clean off blush and sand with 80 or heavier grit. 3. Apply Bondo as fairing compound. Sand ending in 120 grit. 4. Clean and apply gelcoat. ------------- |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: March-07-2007 at 8:38pm
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Sounds like a plan. Thank you. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: March-07-2007 at 10:01pm
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: March-09-2007 at 9:21pm
Sanded the Bondo on the rs of the hull. Then I realized that I still have to apply Bondo to the lip just below the rub rail location. I grinded that already but skipped the Bondo. That will take a minute to do. I filled the other side of the boat with Bondo. Start sanding that tomorrow. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-09-2007 at 10:08pm
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Bill won't the rub rail cover up any waveyness in that area any way? the underside that is. I was looking at them the other day and alot of the vynal (sp)/rubber ones have a lip on them that would extend and cover it up. Just a thought. Your making progress and the end is in sight. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: March-11-2007 at 7:08pm
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I was actually talking about the lip on the side of the hull where it actually curves upward and out as much as two inches. One side of the boat is finished. The other is sanded with 40 and 80 grit and halfway down with 120 grit. The stern is sanded down to 120 grit as well, including the lip. Not much left until I can start spraying gel. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: March-12-2007 at 8:47am
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Bill:
That lip is a royal pain to sand. What is your plan to terminate the fairing compound and gel coat at the joint sealant? Personally, I avoided covering the sealant with boat. This required that I dig out most of the sealant and spent considerable time trying to clean the area of the silicon...not easy and I am sure not very effective ultimately. Still, I ended up without gelcoat covering sealant that I was afraid would cause it to peel away. Keep up the excellent work. ------------- |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: March-12-2007 at 9:31am
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I have encountered some silicone strings along that joint. I never really thought much about it until you brought up the problem. Perhaps I could mask just the very point at the joint or once the gel is applied sand it all the way down at the joint. Still have a bunch of grinding, filling, and sanding ahead of me. Thanks for the support. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: March-12-2007 at 6:41pm
Finished grinding away all of the gelcote on the topside. Brushed, cleaned, rinsed, and used 202 for prep. Applied resin and it is cooking right now. Finished putting bondo under the lip all the way around the boat. Just need to sand that off. Plenty of grinding left under the boat. Really wish I could have flipped it over. Would have made things much easier. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: jon4pres
Date Posted: March-14-2007 at 9:56am
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SkiBum, You are my hero. I can not wait to see your finished boat. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1801&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980 - 82 2001 jon4pres@gmail.com Fort Scott Kansas |