1995 GT 40 Start Problem
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51558
Printed Date: June-02-2024 at 5:46pm
Topic: 1995 GT 40 Start Problem
Posted By: craigmeade
Subject: 1995 GT 40 Start Problem
Date Posted: May-06-2024 at 2:30pm
Replies:
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-06-2024 at 8:24pm
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A fuel pressure gauge for fuel injected engines will come in kinda handy. A test kit from Harbor Freight is pretty reasonable and has the adapter for the Ford test connection. With the gauge hooked up to the test connection on the fuel rail, if you turn the key to the Run position, you should hear the pumps run for 2 or 3 seconds and then shut off because the ECM knows the engine isn't running. During those few seconds, the pressure should come up to 39 psi plus or minus a few pounds, so about 36 to 42 psi. You might have to cycle the key a couple times to get a good representative number. That 39 ish number will change if the engine is running. At idle speed it will be about 31 plus or minus 3 psi if you get the engine started When driving it around it'll vary between 31 and 39 depending on engine vacuum. I'd check your tether switch to be sure it's in place correctly and check fuel pressure as a starting point. If you don't hear the pumps at all when the key is turned to Run, then it's time to check the 2 relays near the ECM and the 12.5 and 20 amp breakers on the back of the engine that supply the 2 relays and the ECM. You need 2 good breakers and 2 good relays for the engine to run, so you cant just swap the relays with each other. Replacing both relays at the same time is the best way to do it The 12.5 amp breaker is for the ECM and the 20 amp breaker is for the fuel pumps. The ECM relay supplies power to the ECM and also supplies the control power for the fuel pump relay so both breakers need to be shut. and both relays need to be good for the pumps to run. The manual shows a 20 amp breaker for the pumps but later ones were 15 amp. Your 95 is probably a 20.
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Posted By: craigmeade
Date Posted: May-08-2024 at 10:04pm
finally took the time to do what i should have done earlier: looked over the electrical connections to the fuel pumps. i found a broken clip on the connector to the HPP that allowed it to loosen and separate. I taped it back in place and all is good! I wish they were all this easy....
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-09-2024 at 7:18am
Since you got off cheap and easy, now's the time to spend a little bit for a fuel pressure tester so that next time there's a problem, you'll be able to check pressure real easy as part of your troubleshooting 
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Posted By: craigmeade
Date Posted: May-09-2024 at 10:02am
| Funny you should that because I already had my new harbor freight fuel pressure gage in hand when I found the broken connector! On another note, any idea where I can order a new connector? It looks to be part of a harness so not readily available on the usual parts sites I shop on. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-09-2024 at 10:41pm
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No guarantees, none at all, well maybe a slight one, but for about 9 bucks, I'd give the connector in the link below a shot. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CQP8TS5K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A25OZ6XDPKENV3&psc=1" rel="nofollow - link It may look a little different but it fits a bunch of pumps that cross reference to your original that should look like the one in the picture.  If you get one, just promise to post here whether it works or not for your 95
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