GT40 No Start
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48012
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 10:21am
Topic: GT40 No Start
Posted By: BlueDub
Subject: GT40 No Start
Date Posted: September-05-2019 at 8:37pm
| I have a new to us '99 Air Nautique. This boat was so great for the first 50 hrs this summer, correct hull and storage for our family which has grown to 4, and the GT40 EFI which gave an amazing pull. I was hoping that it would be super safe/reliable compared to the '83 2001 that we have used pre-kids. But after 50hrs of phenomenal skiing it just started to die intermittently (at first after sitting for an hour or two of rest after morning sets while trying to go for round 2) then it just died and would not restart at all. I did the things that I saw as inevitable which I didn't mind: relays, cap and rotar, fuel filter, checked pickup in tank and antisiphon, had alternator tested, then I started getting a little more serious, putting pumps, regulator, even got ahold of a known-to-be-good ECM but to no avail! I do not have access to a STAR tester. At that point I got frustrated, brought it back to the dealership and three weeks later they told me they were going to put in a HP pump to which I said don't bother and took the boat back. Now mechanic #2 (good guy so far) has told me that the fuel pressure is just not there and he is also feeling stumped. My question is what do I do? I am going to meet and talk to mechanic tomorrow after work to talk about the plan/options. Anyone around Norther Illinois that can get this sorted out? Do I need to get my hands on the STAR tester to get to the bottom of this? What specifically could cause the pump to not run? I saw the info about the heat sinc (TFI) and the symptoms described in that post are resembling my scenario almost exactly. Please help, summer is slipping into fall and away.... |
Replies:
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-05-2019 at 11:36pm
|
Curious as to what dealer around here that would work/know whats gong on with a 20 year boat? Have you tried jumping the safety lanyard switch ? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-05-2019 at 11:55pm
| Nautique dealer we bought it from, only one around. The lanyard button definately activates the low pressure pump, and it cranks, would the HP be somehow controlled separately by that?. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 1:09am
|
Here is the link to the gt40 diagnostic http://www.correctcraftfan.com/Downloads/Pro_BOss_GT-40_Service_Manual.pdf" rel="nofollow - manual Page 6-8 is the fuel pump circuits. Both pumps are controlled by the same relay. You can make both pumps run by supplying a ground on this side of this plug in the picture below-  I would check to see if each pump runs on it's own. After testing the LP pump I'd disconnect it's feed and then check the HP, If it does not run then check to see if it is getting power at it's plug. If it is then open the FCC,I have heard of the pumps wires getting disconnected especially if you have the old threaded FCC. I also think that the lanyard only controls the pumps meaning the starter will still operate with the lanyard pulled. Maybe in the morning Ken will have a thought or two also. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 96SNEFI
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 2:46am
|
I think you said the pumps prime and the engine cranks. Are you getting spark? I experienced similar problems and it turned out to be the coil. Standard automotive coil will work. |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 8:55am
| Yes, forgot to mention in original post that I did the coil also in my early rage of throwing parts at it. And the mechanic has said that it runs when he feeds it fuel (I'm imagining he has a spray bottle to squirt into the intake) but I have not witnessed that. I really appreciate the attention from everyone. I'm going to print the manual to have when I go talk to him today. Any other tips or info are welcome and I will update after I see the boat today. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 9:18am
I woke up with only a small amount of brain activity this morning Gary but here's a thought about something to consider.  See the link below from Boneflier a short time back dealing with those cleverly hidden, seldom thought about diodes in the fuel pump/ECM wiring http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47911&title=1997-gt40-quiting-sporadically" rel="nofollow - link Another thought, keep in mind that the 301 page manual is more specific to the OMC/Volvo Penta versions of this engine that it is to a PCM GT40 even though it says PCM on the cover. One example, If you're reading about the round 10 pin wiring harness connector to the boats wiring harness, it's really a rectangular 8 pin connector There are other things but this is the biggest it seems. |
Gary S wrote:Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 11:12am
|
In the manual, the wiring diagram on page 6-8 and the legend on 6-9 show the diode (#12) and you can see that if that has no power to it, neither does the ECM (ECA) or the fuel pump relay. I think he (boneflyer) really meant to say close the relay instead of open the relay in his description in the link and I'm not sure what "brown" wire he's referring to, but a small jumper around the diode would tell if that's your issue. It wouldn't be hard to jumper from the solenoid "I" terminal to the purple wire going into the relay to accomplish this. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 11:30am
|
Would it not be easier to see if he has power to the hp pump first, all you have to do is unplug the connection place the ground jumper and test? I think that diode is in the mass of wiring under the ecm mount ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 1:17pm
|
Thanks guys, keep it coming. I'm going to print this thread with the service manual to bring to the shop this afternoon. Sidenote, this engine only had 450 hrs on it when we got it, that sealed the deal. And when I put it on the trailer to get this sorted out I pulled all the upholstery and had it redone, now said interior is sitting at my house waiting to get back in the boat. Can't wait to post a photo of this, my dreamboat, back together in the lake for y'all. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 1:32pm
I suppose so but I figure if it's intermittent then the jumper will get rid of the "intermittentcy" I think I just created a new word
|
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 1:52pm
I know you know what it is Gary, but just so he knows what that plug is, it's the STO plug with nothing normally plugged into it and it's just hanging back there. Page 2A-11 in the manual has info on doing this grounding to start the pumps, and also mentions that the key needs to be on while performing the test |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 2:17pm
|
The jumper trick used to get my ‘95 up and running when the pump over heated (heat soaked) (different fuel pump I know) He hasn’t mentioned any fuel pressures, I would gather that info prime pressure, while it’s running and running when it dies. That info could help steer you in the right direction. Also need to check for spark when it dies, could be in the distributor (ground, PIP) Need more info. |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 3:15pm
|
Last time I got details like that from the mechanic was via text. He said "has injector pulse, spark, but only 5 psi of fuel pressure and can get it to run by feeding gas through throttlebody" Any other info that I can request or suggest to help him/us figure it out? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 3:45pm
|
Sounds to me that like you already thought -the HP pump is not working. That 5 pounds is from the LP pump. Jumper it like above and see if it comes on. Like I said before if it does not verify if you have voltage at its connector, if it does trouble is between that point up to and including the pump. If there is no power then it just may be that diode. If you were ambitious/mad as Ken you could wire up the HP pump to run direct as you try to start it and see if it runs ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 5:25pm
|
Have you already replaced the HP pump once? In your first post in this thread it seems to say you put in pumps (plural), regulator and tried a known good ECM in it. Like Gary said, the LP pump is around 5 psi so it does seem like an HP pump issue. With the key on engine off fuel pressure should be between 35 and 45 psi according to the manual (page 4-1) if both pumps are working right so if you did the jumper test Gary mentioned you should get numbers in that range if you have a gauge hooked up. Edit That's the spec listed but on pages 2b2 and 2b3 you'll see reference to 39 +/- 3 psi while cranking and the same numbers at full throttle. At idle it'll be regulated to 31+/- 3 psi. |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 8:50pm
|
Yes, both pumps have been replaced. I just got back from talking to the mechanic. I gave him a link to this thread so he can use your suggestions, and we will provide the info requested. He is going to try jumping the pump tomorrow morning and see what happens. I mentioned that it is worth checking the connection within the HP pump canister to be sure it remained connected during re-installation. Circling back to information I gathered from another GT40 thread: We did not discuss the concept of the heat sink. I tried to research it in section 2C-1 of the diagnostic manual but it was not explained in as much detail as the other components, PIP and and Hall effect. The name makes me wonder that some thermostatic function operates it, and my initial intermittent issues did appear to be related to temperature. After running the boat it would sit for an hour or so and then when we tried to take off for another set we would get a few hundred feet from the dock and it would die. This happened a few times and it would restart after waiting. I would bring it back home and then it worked again fine for morning skiing the next day but after resting and trying to get going again the same thing happened. After a half dozen of these episodes it just wouldn't restart at all bringing us to the present conundrum. That seemed to be related to temperature. When I imagine the concept of heat sink I figure it is heat spreading because there is no cooling happening. What control of the fuel pump would this component actually have? And am I close in my inference based solely on its name? What exactly does it do? |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 9:05pm
|
The High Pressure pumps when failing will sometimes respond to tapping on the housing. They can restart and run again but will always fail again soon after. The trick can sometimes allow you to start and drive back to the dock. Better than being towed. As you are doing all your testing make sure to not test run the pumps dry. Running electric pumps with no fuel in them can burn them up very quickly. The pumps are actually fuel lubricated so running them without fuel flow does fast damage just like running your engine with no oil in it. Keep us posted on what you find. ------------- |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 10:37pm
Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're asking but the piece of equipment that is called the heat sink is a piece of finned aluminum that the TFI4 ignition module mounts to. It conducts heat away from the module to the surrounding air to keep the module cooler than it would be if mounted direct to something like a steel bracket on the engine with no fins. It has no moving parts |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 11:00pm
| Thank you KENO, you are not misunderstanding, rather I am just scrambling for info and definitely overthinking things in this case. The question is would any part of the TFI somehow interrupt power to the fuel pump? |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 11:11pm
This made me realize something, during the early stages of intermittent failure I did hook up a fuel pressure gauge on the dock after I got it home from "an episode". When it was running it had only about 20 psi, 12 with key on. I had to crank it more than a little to get it going at that point. That is what led me down the chase of the HP fuel pump to begin with. But I never saw a measurement of pressure higher than 12 psi with key on not running. *I thought I would only get up to 30-40 while running, so it is expected to get that with key on engine off?* I did try testing voltage on the lead to HP pump with key on and got nothing. Tried to crank with my voltmeter on HP pump wires and only saw a spike in voltage but nothing continuous, I concluded that it must only stay powered if engine runs. I may be grasping at straws here, but just recalling the small details of exactly what was happening while I was trying to figure it out on the lake. And if you want to cut me some slack in regards to my slow recall of details I can say it was nighttime, also a flashlight and lots of useless bugspray were involved. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-06-2019 at 11:27pm
So now we’re getting the info that we need to separate fuel from spark. Yes what Gary said if that’s the pressure your getting I doubt your HP is running either at all or it may be intermittent and leading to what Ken mentioned. More testing info please. Edit: before we rule out spark isn’t there a ECM program that shuts down the pumps if the computer isn’t seeing a spark command? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-07-2019 at 1:40am
|
Paul page 2A-15 of the book says - A pair of green/yellow leads from the relay then carry voltage to both fuel pumps. One green/yellow lead also acts as a fuel pump monitor (FPM) and connects to ECA pin 8. It tells the ECA whether or not the pumps are operating. In the event of pump or circuit failure it will input a service code into the ECA memory. Then this is what I think what your thinking of- Page 2B-4 - When the ignition switch is turned to the on position both fuel pumps will operate. If the switch is not turned to start position the ECA will not receive a PIP signal and will shut off the fuel pumps after approx 2 seconds. The ECA will operate both pumps when the ignition switch is in the start position providing fuel while cranking and will continue unless the engine stops ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-07-2019 at 1:44am
|
If there's no PIP signal it'll start and run for about 2 seconds. The PIP signal tells the computer that the engine is rotating. The test jumper at the STO connector runs the pumps whether there's a PIP signal or not Edit.......a little slower than you tonight Gary
|
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-07-2019 at 2:14am
|
thats ok been a long day ...... I have to work tomorrow too ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-07-2019 at 2:37am
| Just clarifying to check my understanding. The photo of jumping the pumps is not actually giving the pump power, but rather tricking the pump into thinking the engine is running by sending artificial PIP signal? Or is this another classic example of me overthinking it... and now that I reread that it sounds absurd. Thanks again for all the help guys. I really do want to understand this stuff. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-07-2019 at 3:29am
|
No. I’m not an electrical engineer but for some reason several things on these engines have power in them at all times. When the computer sends the command to work it completes the ground circuit. So the fuel pumps have power and when they get the signal a ground is provided to turn them on. That jumper just provides a physical ground to easily run the pumps. Comes in handy when you change filters and need to refill the FCC. Fuel injectors for example are exactly same. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: SharkSN
Date Posted: September-08-2019 at 6:32pm
|
Just to confirm again the low pressure pickup pump has been looked at/replaced? There is a tiny screen on the inlet of that sucker and easy to clog. The PCM Fuel cell and pump (that is the "high pressure") has been pulled apart or replaced?It has a filter around it. Obviously you'll hear the PCM Fuel cell pump spin up ( to build pressure) and stop on just key-on. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-08-2019 at 10:01pm
Just a side note - there isn't supposed to be a screen in the inlet,but there is a screen inside a chamber under the top cover.  Ken on further review that diode supplies the relay with power so therefore if it were bad both pumps should be down right? I still say if this was me I'd unplug both pumps and check to see if I had power to the HP pump connection. If I had it to there then I'd open the FCC and check the spade terminals that connect to the pump and go from there -it's telephone 101 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-09-2019 at 11:15am
|
Dead diode also means a lack of power to the ECM (at least part of the power) in diagram 6-2 and no power to either fuel pump. The diode was mentioned because it seemed he had tried everything else and was stumped
|
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-09-2019 at 12:56pm
|
No problem Ken I realize it gets frustrating and confusing for Kyle having to relay all this to his mechani . Did not realize how the diode had been wired up but I was curious so I looked at the diagram ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: DAC 207
Date Posted: September-09-2019 at 3:12pm
| I just went through a similar problem with a functional low pressure pump and in intermittent lack of output from a new HP pump. I had a failing kill switch that would allow the fuel at start then die allowing the motor to run for 2 second then stop. Jumping the kill switch fixed the problem ( new switch will be hear in two days). |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-09-2019 at 3:43pm
Maybe you should update your other thread that says the issue was the high pressure fuel pump Here's a link to it http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47962&KW=&title=engine-cuts-out" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-10-2019 at 7:24pm
| I picked up the boat from the mechanic yesterday and got on it in the driveway last night. He is confident that everything is working and the HP pump is just bad (maybe defective from out of the box). Frustrating because the assumption that it was good for it was new potentially led us on a wild goose chase. Anyway, before ordering another pump I wanted to poke around and see for myself. I jumped the pumps like in the picture, they both made noise. I unplugged LP to clearly hear HP humming, it was. I disconnected the return loop hose and it was squirting fuel with both on, but with the LP pump unplugged and jumping just the hp no fuel comes out of the hose. It is making noise, but seems to not be moving any fuel. |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-10-2019 at 7:31pm
| Thanks Dac. I’ll jump the kill switch for safe measure before swapping pumps. It does crank and when you push it you can hear the pump so it appears operational, but at this point I see assuming things is not a good strategy. I do regret not tackling this thing myself from day 1, but I just really hoped the pros would just make short work of it and get us back to skiing. Anyway live and learn, lifetime of CCF learning makes my future bright. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-10-2019 at 8:06pm
|
[QUOTE=BlueDub] I just really hoped the pros would just make short work of it and get us back to skiing. QUOTE] Don’t think there is anything wrong with that thought. The problems we have are a short season anyone good wants to work all year. Then the fact that for the most part they have been pretty reliable so there is less experience and are now also obsolete so no support. Now throw in the fact the youngest ones are pushing 20 years doesn’t help either. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: September-10-2019 at 10:15pm
|
Take a close look at the hose leaving the HP pump. they have been known to fail and that would just pump all the fuel back into the FCC. ------------- 84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-11-2019 at 8:51am
You need to put a pressure gauge on it or you will just be guessing that it's working as it should be. It's simple to hook up, they don't cost much and can keep you from throwing money and parts at it. |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-13-2019 at 12:50am
| New pump is in. Starts and runs for a second or two then dies. Is it maybe the PIP keeping it from running. It won't stay running with it jumped either. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-13-2019 at 8:52am
It seems to me that you still haven't put a fuel pressure gauge on it recently. Without knowing the fuel pressure with the key on engine off and jumpering the pumps with the STO plug, you really don't know much at all What's the pressure with the newest HP fuel pump installed You could randomly throw a distributor in it as the easiest way to resolve a PIP issue if there is one, since the distributor has to come apart completely to change the PIP sensor Or you could randomly throw a TFI 4 module at it too, but they're all shots in the dark. So............I'll yell it kinda loud WHAT'S YOUR FUEL PRESSURE? |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-13-2019 at 9:29am
| The gauge I have is not great but it shows near 12 psi with key on and jumper attached. New pump no difference. I'm going to open the fcc later and check the wiring inside because the 12 volts I was able to measure was at the plug outside, I'm thinking maybe the lead that goes through the fcc maybe? Or that hose in there, but I inspected that and it looked good. Hope to have time after work today. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-13-2019 at 9:55am
|
It should be 39 +/- 3 psi. You probably have a fuel injected car hanging around that you could test the gauge on to see if it's accurate if you know what the car system has for a pressure spec. Or you could get a loaner gauge from a parts store and compare readings. |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-13-2019 at 3:31pm
| I’m at work on lunch planning my attack for when I get home. I suspect that this wire pass through is not delivering power to the pump, because I do get that 12 volts right up to that plug outside of the fcc. Planning on checking the spade connectors inside as soon as I get home. But this plug available on SkiDim does not look exactly like the one I have on my fcc. http://https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RF121085" rel="nofollow - https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RF121085 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-13-2019 at 3:48pm
|
There had been a change over the years because the older style could leak. I’m sure skidim has the picture of latest version ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-14-2019 at 5:00am
| I figured it out! Will post details in the morning. |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: September-14-2019 at 3:19pm
| Waiting with bated breath, for the answer to the problem. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-14-2019 at 7:08pm
|
Looking at the time he posted, maybe he was having a dream He was just logged on at 4:26 pm with no update to be had. I think I'll just assume he's too busy driving it to do an update right now |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-14-2019 at 8:24pm
|
Unfortunately we are no-wake everywhere around here because of the recent storms, I was lucky enough to have my mom come and hang with the kids today so I could get out there and install the new interior and do major detailing. I was not dreaming last night, I was up all night until the wee hours cleaning up the mess made by 8 weeks in two different shops. Which leads me to the explanation of the problem. Here is my conclusion and process last night which led me to it. I will attempt to present it somewhat completely but it was quite an ordeal as you know. Started by checking voltage from lead all the way to the HP pump itself along the way refreshing connections as nicely as possible. 12 volts to the HP pump without a doubt. So why is it not moving fuel? Inspect that little hose, it is in tact but somewhat soft from sitting in fuel, notice that it has a little crease from where it might have been folded/twisted, simulate what might happen if the filter binds in the can when it is being screwed on and sure enough that thing folds like it was stuck that way for about 8 weeks.  So I flipped it, (this was about midnight so I'm not going to ACE to buy fuel line) thinking it will not likely kink spinning in the opposite direction. I also trimmed a bit off the end to have a nice tight fit and be sure it didn't bottom out in the can and push up to kink also. Screwed on the can so carefully that I was sure the filter didn't bind. Now I have positive without a doubt voltage to pump and no way that hose is the problem. Why is the fuel not dumping out the return in the tank?! I decide that I need to go back to square 1, lots has happened in two months and who knows, better start at the beginning. Check the screen in the fuel pickup in the tank. That is where I notice the most disturbing thing, there is no anti-siphon on the pickup! Look at the return and there it is, someone (not me) took them both apart and reassembled with that on the return, no way for fuel to flow into the tank. I am so excited I am sure that I have figured it out, make them correct, turn the key to hot and the fuel is dumping out the return. Yes I have done it, time to celebrate, turn to start and nothing. Are you kidding me!! Maybe if they had that wrong what else did they do? Look carefully at the fuel lines routing from the FCC to the injectors, try to remember what I read, it goes passed the regulator and then to the Schroeder valve? or the other way? I'm delirious because it must be 1 am but I'm going to flip those to see, what is the worst that could happen? Hit the starter and it starts and runs like new. Run into the house to tell my wife, get reprimanded for smelling like gas and sent back outside, go back outside shaking with excitement from the accomplishment. Wow. So after that I spent some time winding down and preparing to put in the new interior cleaning up the mess and whatnot. Sidenote, that was Friday the 13th and there was a full moon so I walked down to the lake to sit on the dock and enjoy. I noticed the neighbor's jetski was not on the lift, and I am the guy he usually asks to pull it and I haven't yet. So I go grab my light and find it floating down the way, take a walk down the shoreline to secure it then, finally, take in the view, what a night! Lessons learned. When you are stumped, take the time to restart from the beginning, do not assume anything. I admit that it is likely when I installed the new HP pump at the very beginning that I could have twisted that tube and that is all it was all along. Do I regret going through all this? Heck no. I needed to pull the boat to do the interior and this was the golden opportunity, that is why I threw in the towel so willingly and passed it off at the start, the timing was perfect. Also, when we bought it I wanted it to like new for next year, engine gone through thoroughly, many shakedown cruises and no bugs, and for the interior to get done. I can now say that goal has been met for sure. I have always loved looking at this site, but mostly soaking up info without much opportunity to use it, but after the support I got from everyone here to figure this out I feel a deep and sincere appreciation for the Correct Craft Family and have never been prouder to be a par of it. Thanks to all of you. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-14-2019 at 8:33pm
|
Kyle, Congratulations!!  No wake again on the chain due to high water? Happens every time Blarneys opens the valve to dump the urinals directly into the lake! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-14-2019 at 8:38pm
| Good one. It is probably pretty high up by you guys too, but much more swim-able no doubt. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: September-14-2019 at 8:49pm
|
It is working. Good Work! What a bunch of hurdles thrown in the mix. ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-14-2019 at 9:10pm
Yea Pete we got 3" Wednesday night so it was no wake on the upper and lower river,then Thursday night we got 2.75 and they closed everything. With the multiple restrictions and my mother in law in and out of the hospital this season it wasn't worth putting the boat in at all  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-14-2019 at 9:11pm
|
But there's one big unanswered question left here. Did you take a shower before you snuggled up with the wife?
|
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: September-14-2019 at 9:15pm
I’ve burned about 250 gallons of gas on Deep Lake so far this season. The chain has been a nightmare the last few years with rain and flooding. Good thing you’re on high ground, Gary! Maybe Quinner will throw a party and I’ll see you again soon! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-14-2019 at 9:24pm
It's always been a nightmare without the high water.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-14-2019 at 9:25pm
Wishing the best. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-14-2019 at 9:55pm
| Say what you want about the chain, our lake is as far removed from it as one can be, and our dock is in a huge nowake zone so it is safe for the kids. Also, when you are a teacher like me on summer break skiing weekday mornings is as good of glass as anywhere. I get the Chain O lakes rap, but we actually have it real nice where we are at. |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: September-15-2019 at 1:09am
|
At least you can ski at sunrise to sunset and then some—and weekdays are Golden if you’re an early riser! |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-15-2019 at 10:06am
I suppose only you know what the condition of that hose is, but if it's been twisted/kinked enough to stop or highly reduce flow like your simulation in the picture, I'd be replacing that hose pretty quickly even though things are OK right now
|
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-15-2019 at 2:50pm
|
I’d go and get PCM’s kit anyway, it’s a heavier hose and clamps to match. Used to be a dollar didn’t see how they could do it for that, it’s now 12 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: September-15-2019 at 4:27pm
I was thinking of how a collapsing fuel line could cause this problem but that’s not the line I was thinking of. Wow. Imagine how much fuel goes through that little sucker! |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-17-2019 at 11:04pm
| I was planning on asking your opinions on fuel hose to replace that. I have bought fuel hose before for random stuff from ACE, they have a good selection of hose. But when I bought marine grade for the fuel line on the 83 I went to a boat supplier and it was not cheap, but that stuff is way beefy compared to that little hose. It looks to me like ordinary automotive fuel hose. |
Posted By: BlueDub
Date Posted: September-17-2019 at 11:09pm
You know how stiff those are when they are new, and I did not twist it hard to fold it like that, it must have wound up in a knot in there when the can was being screwed on. That just shows how soft that thing had gotten from sitting in the gas. Also demonstates how they are prone to failure like you guys said. |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: September-17-2019 at 11:29pm
| When I bought my SS, I had a dealer replace the HPP and hose before I brought it home. I had to replace the LPP about a month into ownership. The hose is much heavier than the one yo showed us all. That thing looks horrible. |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: September-17-2019 at 11:37pm
| http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27375&title=pcm-gt40-58l-efi-abrubtly-barely-runs |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: September-17-2019 at 11:54pm
|
https://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/internal-fuel-hose-for-fcc/ If you look at the picture it’s way harder to twist than whatever you showed us all twisted up |