Air Tique
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47493
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 1:05pm
Topic: Air Tique
Posted By: brantb
Subject: Air Tique
Date Posted: May-24-2019 at 12:20pm
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Hello all, If all goes well i am going to be picking up a very used 1999 Air Tique so i am going to have a lot of questions in the near future. For now just a few. I know the motor is on it way out and has most likely froze in the recent past(core plugs popped out). I am going to try to get them back in and run it on a fake a lake and see how that goes. Any tips at getting the plug that is around the motor mount back in? And for the fun question, what is too much hp/tq for the trans/shaft/boat in general? I was thinking potentially new short block, cam, gt40p heads, rpm intake, DUI distributer. The other option is to get a stroker, e street heads, rpm intake, DUI, ect which im guessing would be around 400hp/tq which just seems like too much. Props. Acme 422 the best option? I will be at 5-6k feet in elevation, the the current prop MAY be usable, but is in bad shape. Gel coat repair. Just looking for general suggestions here to fix some good size chips and scratches I will be looking for a 11A rudder/port, a tracking fin, and interior pieces if anyone has a leads Also, what is the prefered method of posting pic? http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47798&PID=573534򌁞" rel="nofollow - Prop pulling adventure |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-24-2019 at 12:31pm
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Brant, I suggest using a rubber expanding core plug where it's hard to get to. Then start the engine and hopefully you'll find there's no internal damage. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 10:34am
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Picked up the boat and got it into the garage late last night. Tonight after work i will be getting some core plugs, hooking it up to the fake a lake and firing it up. If the oil isnt milky i am going to check the compression again while it is warm. Overall it is going to be a fun, but long, project and in the end i should have a damn nice boat. |
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 4:34pm
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Hey Brant, congrats on the purchase! Sounds like the boat will give you some projects, but some great times in the future. It may be a lot of work getting her there, but trust me it will be worth it. First, you may want to check the original specs on your Air before you dive into that 422 ... I was thinking the V-drives had 1 1/8" shafts?? Also, pitch and diameter you will require are going to vary depending on your intended use, actual running weight and also the actual HP & torque of the engine you plan to drop in there. But perhaps some of the DD folks or the prop guys can chime in with a few recommendations for you. HP - in my opinion - isn't something that you should necessarily limit. And no, 400+ hp would not be too much, IMO  ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 5:13pm
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https://photos.app.goo.gl/xkGxz7wQQuy3GaxV9" rel="nofollow - https://photos.app.goo.gl/xkGxz7wQQuy3GaxV9 Here are some photos. As i begin my progress i will keep adding more |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 5:53pm
You should check the specs on a 99 Air Tique Joe. It's a 17 1/2 ft SN 176 with different trim . |
gt40KS wrote:Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 5:55pm
LOL, well there you go Ken. As I said I don't know much about "Air" ... I guess in this case it was nothing at all  So if it's just a 176 SKI Nautique, why do they designate it AIR?? To me that denotes a wake series.... ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 6:03pm
It had a taller pole and some of that clever marketing mumbo jumbo and you could get some air with it.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 6:08pm
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Joe, Taller pylon:  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 6:32pm
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I see that now Pete.... Big change at the time I guess. But it occurs to me that no one ever explained to Brant how to post pics. Brant, easiest is to leave the photos on your computer and load them directly to the site. You have to use the "post reply" button at the TOP of the page. at the top of the dialogue screen there are several buttons. One of them towards the right has a blueish "up" arrow. This is the image upload button. Push it and follow the directions. Pretty simple. Unless you are trying to post from a cell phone - the site doesn't react too well to those. And also Mac products I think?? Not sure about that, but definitely not from phones. You can also load from a 3rd party site, but you have to use the "insert image" button for that, the one just to the left of the upload button. ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 6:43pm
Brant, here is a start for you:    ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 10:17pm
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Got some work done tonight. Got a couple new core plugs put in place. They aren’t great, but good enough to run in the garage. After that and putting new plugs in the exhaust risers I ran it on the hose for about 20 minutes. Checked the oil and it was clean so maybe the block isn’t cracked. Anyone know the correct size for the riser drain bolts? I got some 3/4 brass pipe plugs. They went in a few turns, but didn’t feel great. It might just be corrosion thought. Thoughts on that. The heater was leaking for a few minutes, but it seems good now. The dash is trashed so if anyone is parting out a boat let me know. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 10:21pm
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Brant, The 3/4" sounds correct for the plugs. Yes, some chasing of the threads most likely is needed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 10:32pm
Here is a better image of it sitting in the garage. I know it is messy, but that just got pushed back Does this packing look normal to everyone? I have never seen it like this, but this is also my first time seeing it in person.  Here are some manifold bolts that are going to be a bear to get out. I saw another thread on here where someone had the same issue, so i will do what they did.  And some picture of some contributing factors as to why it was so cheap.   The good thing is the hour meter say ~422 hours. If that is to be believed this thing should have some life left in it. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 11:45pm
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Since you want to call the plugs core plugs and be technically correct, you might as well say "exhaust manifold drains" and not "riser drains" since the risers are what bolt to the top of the manifolds and be technically correct there too since the drains are in the manifolds And............if you got 3 turns on the brass pipe plugs, I wouldn't worry about doing anything else. That's plenty if they're not leaking.. Your "packing" picture is tough to see but it looks like a bunch of junk manila rope got wrapped around the coupling on the shaft. Needless to say, it ain't normal and shouldn't be there. I like the graphics except for the .BIG NUMBERS
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Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: May-28-2019 at 12:24am
  Here are a couple more pictures. I was thinking that it looked like roam got wrapped around it, but it does look rapped neatly so i wasnt sure. Definitely looks out of place though from pictures i have seen before. The giant letters will be coming off tomorrow. If all goes well i may try to drop it into the lake and see how it runs. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-28-2019 at 12:32am
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Whatever that stuff is, I'd get rid of it before heading out on the water. Looks like a big drip tray tucked under the transmission I wonder why that would be there? Good luck on the water test |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-28-2019 at 1:11am
| Berber carpeting? Possibly what once lined the drip tray... |
Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: May-28-2019 at 9:00am
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Going to need some of these now to finish off "your "boat! Except of course yours will be the correct shape.....   ------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: May-28-2019 at 10:12am
I will start pulling/cutting that out tonight. Also need to take the big numbers off the front. Im not sure why that drip tray is there, but it goes all the way under the motor. I dont think there would be a way of getting it out without pulling the motor. The boat did spend many years in England, so maybe it is a requirement there? |
Posted By: hal2814
Date Posted: May-28-2019 at 10:16am
| Great looking boat! Don’t put too much faith in the hour meter. It’s more likely that the hours meter is broken than it only having 422 hours. |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: May-28-2019 at 10:21am
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With those big numbers I assumed this was an overseas boat. ------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation 1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort 1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: May-28-2019 at 4:38pm
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Trailer was a dead giveaway it was European, Must have been a company paid transfer otherwise shipping would have cost nearly as much as the boat itself, lol ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: May-28-2019 at 5:19pm
Yeah. I am now rocking a 50mm ball on my hitch. The trailer in general is poor quality. No safety chains, no lights, no title, no bow winch or transom straps, but it holds the boat |
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: May-29-2019 at 12:47am
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I agree with Hollywood ... sure looks like berber carpeting to me as well. My guess is the original log deteriorated and one of the PO's performed a 'Homer engineering' repair on it with whatever they had lying around. If Carnac was around, I'd suspect he would say you're looking at dropping the rudder so you can pull the prop shaft and install a proper log & new packing. ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-29-2019 at 8:17am
 I checked with Carnac and he thinks it's just wrapped around the shaft in front of the packing gland and it's adjusting nuts and maybe just a repack without any need for shaft removal might be what's needed ..............maybe
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Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: May-29-2019 at 10:51am
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Whatever it was i cut it out. It was deteriorating and had obviously soaked up some oil in the past. It now looks like what i have seen in other pictures. Took a powerwasher to the carpet and bilge area and took a lot of grime off. Tonight i plan on filling the bilge and leaving it overnight to see how much leaks from where the shaft goes through the hull. I also pulled those numbers off. It was nice to get them off, but depressing to see how well the hull used to shine. That will most likely be many hours and a new thread over the winter. The wiring is horrible. Was messing with that last night and got the fuel gauge to work. I now have voltage, gas, oil, tach, and maybe temp. Best thing i found....the radio was wired to the blower breaker. Guessing the acc breaker for the radio broke, they pulled the dash and grabbed a breaker they deemed not necessary. Going to somewhat clean that up, but that too will be done correct over the winter. EDIT to add: The hour meter is still working. While i was messing with the wiring and had the IGN breaker switched on and key turned to test stuff and i heard and saw it ticking away. So it does have ~425 hours on it. Odd that they make it work without the engine running, but it is what it is. |
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: May-30-2019 at 12:50am
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Well Brant Carnac is probably correct, as usual. But I'd certainly heed his advice about repacking that gland Sounds like your wiring issues were about as bad as mine -- Good luck! ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: May-30-2019 at 11:57pm
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I tightened up the gland nut and the drip slowed from a monsoon to a few drips a second. That is close enough to take to the lake. I will have to wait around a week to test it based on shipping times. I need to have a class IV throwable which is in the mail. New(to the lake) boats always get stopped by the DNR based on past experience. They need to earn the paycheck....literally I have been working on the dash and i now have all the gauges working minus the speedo which i cant be sure of. The perfect pass is drawing too many amps and killing the rest of the dash so that will be disconnected. This winter i will get a +red and a switched+purple bus bar to distribute the load. |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: June-09-2019 at 9:05pm
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After some work i got the boat to where i thought would be a good point to test it on water. I had it running good on the hose and everything looked good. FIlled the bilge with water to make sure there werent any big leaks and the shaft packing was decent. Things went better than i thought, but worse than i hoped. The impeller was clearly shot and the motor got hot. There was enough pressure with the hose that the impeller wasnt doing any work. This is what i found when i pulled the impeller out of the water pump. I didnt think i would ever see one this bad, but here it is. Should have checked this before, but i gambled and lost.  When i was moving enough to force water through the system a decent leak showed itself and filled the bilge which made me nervous. The bilge pump got clogged up so it was barely keeping up. It was still a good day out on the water. Ordered some new water hose and an impeller. I also need to change out the prop. It was HORRIBLE trying to get the cotter pin out, but after about an hour and a half i finally got it. I was glad to be doing that on dry land. Anyways, if anyone has a prop puller in the denver area i could borrow that would be awesome. Otherwise i will end up buying one, but trying to save the $100 for other things i will inevitably need. Next time i take it out and there is less going on i will get some photos of it on the lake. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-09-2019 at 9:55pm
Brant, http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10725&KW=puller" rel="nofollow - The $10.00 prop puller thread ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: June-26-2019 at 12:19pm
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After a couple of tries i got the correct impeller. Ended up overpaying at a dealer, but it was quick, great people there, and the tech knew exactly what i needed when asking about a 20 year old boat. Took the boat to the lake to test it out. Fired it up and immediately checked for water flow. There wasnt any. Pulled the pump and switched it around and got it working. I guess what i thought was the logical way of putting it back in was backwards. Anyways, let it warm up on the trailer and now i have a small water leak out of the intake manifold gasket. Guess the motor got a touch too hot with the bad impeller. I said the hell with it and took it out anyways. It isnt running 100%, but it is enough to drive around the lake and enjoy it for the summer. I plan on pulling the motor this fall and rebuilding it, so not too worried about damaging the motor. I still havent been able to pull the prop, but have a buddy working on burning out parts for the $10 prop puller. Going to take it out again tomorrow and give it another go. After I know it is somewhat reliable i need to pick up a polisher and some compound and start working on cleaning up the hull. It is dull and very dirty from me working on it and climbing in and out. Any suggestions on polishers and compound? I havent polished/buffed a boat before, but figured with some youtube education and tips from here i can figure it out. It cant get worse. Also, the carpet is nasty, and i generally dont like carpet. Anyone out there tear it out and put down sea deck or something similar? EDIT: Thinking about picking up a DUI distributor. That is something i can add now that will transfer to the new or rebuilt engine. Are they worth it? I am looking at https://performancedistributors.com/product/marine-dui-distributors/ which is what i have read in other posts. |
Posted By: zwoobah
Date Posted: June-26-2019 at 2:45pm
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I've had good luck with a random orbital buffer, wool bonnet, and Meguiar's diamond cut compound (this was for an oxidized Whaler, not the Mustang). Start in areas with no graphics until you get a feel for it. Remember to topcoat the whole boat with wax after you finish compounding - so the oxidation doesn't come back. ------------- 1968 Mustang 16 - 351W powered |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: July-15-2019 at 1:44pm
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Quick update. I took the boat out again to cruise around this past Saturday. The starter is now staying engaged too long, or wont engage so that was interesting. The motor seems to be running stronger, and i finally got the majority of the unknown age gas out of it and put in some fresh non-ethanol. WOT seemed a little off. When i got back home i checked out the linkage. At > ~85% throttle the linkage was binding up with the secondaries so i took care of that. Might try to get out some day after work to run some more gas and some sea foam through it. Still need to get a photo of it on the water to post up. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-15-2019 at 2:25pm
| A picture of what the linkage issue was and the fix for it would be good to see |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: July-22-2019 at 1:23pm
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I will get the pictures posted up this afternoon. Took it out yesterday and now that the throttle can open all the way it isnt running as good. I am thinking that the secondaries arent open because they were being jammed up before and the diaphragm is probably bad. Also swapped out plugs, doing fuel filter today and going to check the diaphragm. Maybe i can get it locally, otherwise i will probably order one and give it another test this coming weekend. I really need to do the shaft packing. I have to run the bilge for 1-2 minutes every half hour so it is well over how much it is supposed to drip. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-22-2019 at 1:32pm
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A little voice in my head says your "fix" may be the reason it's not running as good. Pictures will be helpful |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: July-22-2019 at 2:02pm
 Here i changed the angle of the throttle cable so it can pull to WOT. It just changed the angle slightly.  Here the bolt was sticking about 3/8 of an inch out the back. At close to WOT it was hitting where the red arrow is. My assumption is that was stopping the secondaries from opening and over time caused the diaphragm to go bad. I will be checking that tonight after work. |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: July-23-2019 at 1:57am
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So....I noticed that "berber" carpet crap wrapped around the shaft log too. BUT..does anyone see the "shims" between the transmission and shaft coupler? Is that normal? THey almost look like pieces of 1/4" plywood or something. Maybe it's just me. Looks "odd" though. ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: July-25-2019 at 12:53pm
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I'm looking for the factory tall pylon and have a shorty if you don't like the tall pole....completely understand if you want to keep it but I'm scouring the web for possible trades :) nice boat! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: July-25-2019 at 5:26pm
I might take you up on that. I will send a pm if i decide i want the standard one |
Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: July-25-2019 at 5:28pm
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Sounds good. Send me an email mdvalant at gmail (sorry if I type it as it should be i'll get spammed) I don't hang out on the site much so just want to be sure I don't miss your message. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: July-28-2019 at 9:13pm
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Took it out today to test it with new plugs, gas filter and prop. The plugs made a big difference, the prop helped with cavitation and a little holeshot. Put a loose zip tie on the secondary shaft to confirm they are not opening. I have checked the diaphram and know that it is good. Blew some compressed air through the vacuum passage and know that it is clear. What could be causing the secondaries to not be opening? EDIT: It maxes out at about 3800 rpms at 75-80% throttle. Any more throttle and it starts bogging/dropping rpms. I am assuming this is due to the secondaries not opening and the primaries cant keep up with gas flow. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-28-2019 at 11:06pm
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Did you take the choke housing off so that you could remove the secondary diaphragm housing? Assuming that you did, there should be a small cork gasket where the housing seals to the body of the carburetor. Was that there and in good shape. The plugs making a big difference may just be a band aid since the plugs are telling you a story about the rest of the engine usually indicating a problem with something like the fuel or ignition system (or rings or valve seals etc) instead of the plugs just going bad for no reason.at all. |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: July-29-2019 at 11:10am
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I did remove the choke to get the secondary actuator off. The gasket looked like rubber. It was there and in tact, but was flat with the mating surface. Guess that was due to being mounted for so long. I was reading another post and people were saying that usually you cant get that gasket on its own, and usually have to get it as part of a rebuild kit. There was a little goop on one of the edges that i cleaned up, but nothing that was blocking the hole into the diaphragm. As far as the plugs, you may be right. The old ones were in bad shape and very rusty. They were also 764s vs 24s. The PO didnt maintain this boat at all. The motor will be pulled this fall and gone through. It was it rough shape when i got it. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-29-2019 at 2:22pm
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Being way up high in Colorado, do you know if the boat is jetted for high altitude? On it's best day your engine is down about 15% in power and you say it's not too healthy to begin with. It could be that the secondaries aren't opening because the demand isn't there. At roughly sea level the secondaries are probably right on the edge of opening at 3800 rpm or so on a good running engine. A rebuild of the carburetor couldn't hurt I don't think I remember seeing any timing numbers both at idle and at high RPM's so that you know it's advancing properly. This could be causing your problems if it's not advancing like it should. |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: July-30-2019 at 10:24pm
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Question time for those that have rebuilt carbs. Looking at either https://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/carburetor-kit-holley-for-351-ford-engines-newer-replacement-302-s-pcm-rn0120-1/ or getting the one off the holley site for the carb. Both say they work. Anyone know if they are the exact same? Does either come with reusable gaskets? I am ordering new GFO shaft packing from NP, and guessing the carb could use a rebuild. Also, i will check the timing when i can borrow or end up buying a timing light. |
Posted By: robertbruder
Date Posted: July-30-2019 at 11:12pm
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I bought the kit off SkiDim. Part # RNO120-1 Repair Kit for my Holley 4160 on Ford 351 with PCM Headers and Velvet Drive Transmission. Mine is a 1988 Sierra Supreme though. ------------- Current: 1988 Sierra Supreme Past: 1986 Correct Craft Martinique, 1984 Ski Supreme, 1984 Bare Foot Nautique |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-31-2019 at 9:12am
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Since you didn't link to the Holley kit you're talking about, why don't you take a picture of the front of the carburetor showing the list number on the air horn and someone could tell you what Holley kit would be for your carburetor. It will probably cost a fair amount less than paying for the PCM markup Here's a picture showing where to find the list number 
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Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: July-31-2019 at 10:42am
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According to holley's web site search i need a 703-47 https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/rebuild_kits/marine_renew_kit/parts/703-47" rel="nofollow - this one Some of them look like they have rubber gaskets, this one shows cork. I know the pictures could be outdated, but wondering if someone has purchased one recently. Basically 46+shipping from holley or 50 (55-10%) from NP where i already will be ordering from. The NP one says it doesnt include the base gasket though |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: July-31-2019 at 8:46pm
  Starter was either not engaging or staying engaged, Took it off to see whats up and the gear is loose on the shaft. Is there supposed to be a spring to keep it back unless spinning? It it repairable, or just get a new one? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-31-2019 at 8:49pm
I'd get whichever one you're comfortable with, I can't imagine that Holley would be selling a kit with the old gaskets still. The blue ones aren't rubber, but some kind of non stick gasket material. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-31-2019 at 8:56pm
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The solenoid on top of the starter moves a lever that shoves the gear outwards when energized and when deenergized it pulls the gear back. You 'll have to take the solenoid and the nose piece off the starter to access the lever and see what is worn. You can buy individual parts or just spring for a new Marine starter A good starter for your normal rotation engine is an Arco 70200 or anything that cross references to it. if you go the new route |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-31-2019 at 9:12pm
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The ink below has an exploded view of a Ford PMGR starter It's an automotive one and the parts you'd be replacing for the gear issue aren't any different between marine and automotive https://www.aspwholesale.com/images/exp_views/FD-PMGR.jpg" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: July-31-2019 at 10:02pm
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And KENO comes through again. The selenoid is beat up bad and will need to be replaced. Got it working for now if i decide to go out this weekend and dont get a new one in time. Is there supposed to be a spring? The arm is in good shape. Im guessing it popped off which was what allowed the gear to slide back and forth. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-31-2019 at 10:13pm
| No spring |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-31-2019 at 10:28pm
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I'd buy one before the weekend. cause you know it will act up again at just the wrong time Here's a link down below to one at Advance Auto Parts or you could find it at about any parts store, maybe next day pickup if it's not in stock. Nothing "marine" about the solenoid. it's a sealed unit https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-starter-solenoid-s5060p/3993930-P?searchTerm=starters" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-31-2019 at 10:40pm
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Brant, The return spring is inside the solenoid. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: August-05-2019 at 8:38pm
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Had a busy weekend. Decided to clean up some of the gel coat. I figured it would take me a few hours to do the entire boat and i was way wrong. I have never done it before and didnt realize how tough it would be. Before:  After a little progress. Worked the bow all the way through to get some much needed motivation.   Final:   I learned that there are very few flat surfaces on a boat. Also, it doesnt matter how much you read or the number of videos you watch, you have to do it to get a feel for it. And finally, I now understand why they charge so much to do this. Over the winter i will probably get some 500, 1k, 2k grit sandpaper and give it another go. And question time: Swapped out the shaft packing. Everything i read led me to believe that on a 176 it should be 3/16 packing. When i put it in it seemed easy, too easy. It wasnt loose in the nut, but wasnt tough to get in either. I ended up getting 4 wraps, each cut at an angle and separated by ~90*. Then tightened it up by hand until snug. Should the packing go into the nut that easy, or should I have gotten 1/4" GFO? Edited for bad grammar and spelling |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-05-2019 at 9:01pm
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The packing should be fine it compresses and flattens out Don't complain about a job going easy
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Posted By: stepper459
Date Posted: August-07-2019 at 3:37pm
A thought on whatever was wrapped around the driveshaft - maybe it was one of those oil absorbent bags that are made to sit in the bilge. If those get wrapped up in the driveshaft, they look like... that. AND you get lots and lots of pieces all over the place. Ask me how I know...  |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: August-07-2019 at 5:14pm
| Maybe. I cut that out right away and havent worried about it since. There is still that giant catch pan that is irritating when working on it. This winter when i pull the motor that will be coming out. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-07-2019 at 10:45pm
I thought I'd point out that in your picture above, if the primary throttle plates are closed, then your secondary throttle link rod (the goofy looking sort of S shaped linkage between the primary and secondary shafts) isn't adjusted right. You have about a 1/8 inch gap between the rod and the secondary linkage. This link is to ensure that the secondaries are never open more than the primaries. The way yours is bent, the secondaries can be open more than the primaries , so the link needs to be bent so that at idle it's just touching the secondary linkage to be sure the secondaries are shut It's a little hard to explain but you could google "secondary throttle link rod". It has no effect on you lack of secondary opening issue, it could have an effect on your idle though. |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-08-2019 at 12:20am
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Good call Ken I am almost certain that gap on the return rod I have seen many times, And has always been due to the idle stop having been turned way up after both idle fuel orifices have clogged in the primary metering block in order to get it it 'idle' again. So the engine is idling off the mains, now by getting fuel through the xfer slots. So for certain this thing is running at only a fraction as intended. Also an engine won't gag and fall on it's face if the secondaries don't open, something else is amiss, fuel delivery starvation or secondary metering plate is clogged, making the whole mix go lean. That would be a sight. Hey we're all for trying but that carb may not even deserve a kit. If the corrosion clogged the idle fuel orifices, it likely won't clear up, as they are not accessible like the mains Good chance new carb is on the short horizon, you'll have to decide how much fustration you can tolerate attempting to make that one right. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-08-2019 at 9:15am
| In addition to the concerns above, i have never seen such an improperly installed throttle cable bracket... what on earth is going on there? |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: August-08-2019 at 12:17pm
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I did have to up the idle screw to get it to run stable. Set it to about 700 rpms in gear. I have been looking around for another 4160 so if my attempt at a rebuild fails horribly i have a backup. TRBenj, i changed the angle of the bracket so it would actually pull to WOT. When it was parallel it would only pull to about 90-95%. The last little bit of twist of the primaries wouldnt happen. Either way there are bigger problems with this motor that will be addressed this fall/winter. Looks like carb issues are getting bumped up to sooner rather than later. Plan are to pull engine and clean it up replace heads/intake/cam, hopefully the bottom end is good DUI distributor 11A rudder/port replace 1 fin build/buy rear seats redo dash wiring replace/repair/remove heater and shower |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: August-08-2019 at 5:51pm
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I know you mentioned looking into a new distributor, but have you pulled the cap off and inspected yours, looked at the advance? That high speed stumble may very well be the carb, but you may be running out of advance too. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: September-19-2019 at 11:01am
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It has been a while since i posted an update. There were quite a few weeks where i was busy with a 4 month old, but i was able to take the boat out last weekend. I had a friend driving so i could watch the secondaries. As i had previously thought, they were not opening. I tapped them open and the stumble went away and we picked up about 350-400 rpms. After i tapped them open they started working on their own, so there must have been something blocking the vacuum port. I had manually opened them before without the motor running so i know they weren't seized up. I didnt check the gas before we headed out, so it was a shorter day. The boat was much better off the line, and the top end no longer had the stumble. Going to try to get out this weekend and make sure everything is still good. Some more exciting news is that i found a pair of gt40p heads and they are relatively close. I should be picking those up friday after work. Then i will be searching for an intake. Probably go with the proven edelbrock performer. Anyone have cam specs i should be looking for, or part numbers? I dont want something extremely aggressive, but dont want to stay conservative either. What are the opinions on roller rockers? Worth it to get them or just keep the stock rockers? I am shooting for 300hp and am hoping that is realistic. I am at 5k feet, so i figure that would be about 350hp at sea level. Plans for the winter: -pull motor and that damn tray under it -gt40p heads -performer or other intake -cam/lifters, maybe new pushrods -roller rockers? -DUI distributor -check the bottom end and clean everything up After that fire it up on the hose and make sure everything seems good. Then, -rebuild/replace carb -redo wiring -replace heater -if time/money allows tear up carpet and sea deck the floor |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: September-19-2019 at 11:54am
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hmm, 350hp at sea level is a bit optimistic without more work$ Well it appears you have a LH engine, so that opens up more Camshaft options. Rule of thumb is limit 5,12 max lift unless you do more work to those heads. The GT40P heads use the same rockers you have, Unless you chose heads that require stud rockers, i don't think there is sufficient HP/$ to warrant . Thats money that could go to a Rolller Cam easily if its a roller block, else Tie bar lifters, and have tangible improvements in power and longevity. My take is Intake duration 214-218 and exhaust 224-228 LSA112 seem to work very well and improve everywhere and don't disappoint those that do it.. But you won't be doing wheelies. But best report to us, how do you intend to use the boat? ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: brantb
Date Posted: September-19-2019 at 12:15pm
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From what i read the base 240hp motor was never a roller block. I will be skiing and tubing, maybe wakeboarding with the boat and general cruising. The lake i go to is extremely busy and has lots of wake boats so during the busy time I just park and we swim. What is the purpose of the tiebar lifters? From what i have searched up a retrofit roller cam is big money, At that point i would probably be better finding a roller block and starting from there |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: September-19-2019 at 12:50pm
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well, yes, a right hand roller cam is big money to source... But you cant throw a cat without hitting a Left hand roller cam.. Tiebar roller lifters are a drop-in solution that permit a roller cam in a block that wasn't cast as a roller (lifter bores not raised, and no boss for the spider) True a roller block is a good starting point, but anything used at this point will require machining and internal parts that were not on your list as well. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |