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1988 454 Ski Nautique

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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47362
Printed Date: April-27-2024 at 6:52pm


Topic: 1988 454 Ski Nautique
Posted By: 2001
Subject: 1988 454 Ski Nautique
Date Posted: April-16-2019 at 6:06pm
Hello everyone!


                   What 454 Parts work best for speed?



       *Has anyone put a 454 in a 1988 Ski Nautique?
   Now, I already know what you're gonna say; "Barefoot", RIGHT?!!

Nope, completely different V-bottom Hull
       Barefoot Nautique is V-Bottom.
       Ski Nautique is Semi Flat Bottom (Smaller wake)
       I assume given the same engine, faster?

Barefoot Nautique is basically a 454 Boat. And a
Ski Nautique Most likely was NOT ordered with a 454, Right?


*So, I suppose a 454 and a 1:1 Velvet Drive will just drop right in, Right?!!

AND What 454 Parts work best for speed?

Work in progress;
A nice 1988 Ski Nautique
Cracked Block or freeze damaged low performance 351.



Parts:
I do have a few 1980 2 Lefts and 1 Right Hand Mercruiser 454s laying around, another 1 pair of Peanut port Heads, 1 pair of Oval Port Heads, the 3 engines already have Oval Port Heads on em and a pair of Left and Right 1.91:1 Borgwarners which I know Can't use for this build.


Also,
I have some experience with 4 Round Peanut Port Truck Heads with 2 Mecruiser Magnum Cam 454s turning 4000 (My exact Target) rpm, in a 10,000 pound 1980 Searay 31 Foot 11'11" Beam Express, Straight shafts, turning 1.88 to 1 Borgwarners and 17-18 3 blade Props for 37 MPH on the GPS in flat water (Add 3 mph for a good Head wind and 2 foot chop water) and I except, the engine Parts are a good guess, the Searay is going faster than it ever Has and as fast as it will ever go for low budget Engines.
However, Is this the answer for a light 1988 Ski Nautique?




Thank you for reading!
New Dude



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1988 2001 Ski Nautique



Replies:
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: April-16-2019 at 6:14pm
Not sure about as late as 1988, maybe, but I know a few earlier 2001's came with factory 454s. Since you need a new engine and have 454s laying around, go for it. But I wouldnt swap a 351 for a stock 454 just to get great improvements in performance without having some other incentive, like you do. The 454 2001 I am familiar with was good for 50.xx mph. Not a whole lot more than the stock 351.    If you are going to spruce up your 454, go for it. There is a BFN on the site with a spruced up 454 that was good for mid 60s. Doubt you would get close to that in the 2001 hull, plus that was a very spruced up 454. I'll let the guys who spruce up engines pick up from here.....

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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: April-16-2019 at 6:30pm
                  Wow!
      Ok, new plan :)


   I thought MasterCraft Ski Boats had a Maxinum Hull Speed of 46 mph, then they plow caused by Hull design and Shaft angle but, different Boats! With this information, sounds like some haul lift is possible, I'll lighten it up with some Alum High flows, at least a HO Mercruiser Cam and maybe shoot for 46-49 mph.

Thank you for the good info and quick answer!



PS: No, If all was well, I'd go with at least GT40s if not trick flows, for sure 11:1s+, a 408 or really expensive 427 kit, some kinda Comp Cams proven for the set up, the Tallest Air Gap intake and take the pump belt off every run, run it dry outta the water before putting it way and NOT even care about reversion.


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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: April-16-2019 at 6:40pm
the aforementioned Barefooter.



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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: April-16-2019 at 6:47pm
    Very nice!
Music to my Ears!
Yup, that's the one, the Kind and what I'm talking about!
    You got it Good Buddy!





PS: IF mine sounds like that, who cares how fast!


     My Weekend? ...wasn't like yours!
    I like yours much Better...

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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-16-2019 at 6:57pm
Small block motorbox won’t fit over the 454. Need to check for cradle compatibility. Would want to step up to a 72c/10-18 trans. I assume your marine 454’s are Lefty? They’ll make your boat handle poorly IMHO. Or go 1.23 (more mods required).

Stock (330hp) 454 should be good for about 48mph in a late 2001. Obviously the ski wake would suffer with the 300 extra lbs.


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: April-16-2019 at 7:36pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Small block motorbox won’t fit over the 454. Need to check for cradle compatibility. Would want to step up to a 72c/10-18 trans. I assume your marine 454’s are Lefty? They’ll make your boat handle poorly IMHO. Or go 1.23 (more mods required).

Stock (330hp) 454 should be good for about 48mph in a late 2001. Obviously the ski wake would suffer with the 300 extra lbs.


Yup, about 375 pounds+ of old cast Iron Intake, Cylinder heads, Goose necks and Exhaust Manifolds will be changed out for Aluminum.

I'll measure the stringer distance between and see IF the engine Mounts will fit


Yes, I'll slap a 1.23 reduction on the right hand Trans I have and cut the Shaft!
               OR
What is this Transmission I have here bolted to the back of the Bell housing of this 351?

Yes, Right Hand rotation for torque to the left stabilized by driver's weight on the right and the other reason is no #%$^@& timing chain :)
I have left and right Transmissions but, they're geared 1:91 to 1
Don't know too much about those....   
Can I take the 1:91 to 1 Gear off and use as 1 to 1 some how?!!



Would this work for the Motor Box?
Last 454 I had, The Motor Box was cheaply set on top of a carpet covered 4" floor spacer STOCK.
That was a Bone Stock Truck head PCM 454 1988 supra bravura, Started out life with 14-12 Prop 35mph at RPM? screaming, Next 14-18 3000 RPM 40 MPH on Speed-o now we're getting places. I tried everything for props from 14-12, Bigger Carburetor helped most, Full speed advance helped too, and chucked that Holly for a Eldebrock 1411 (Rochester) for best 3800 rpm for a final very disappointing 2 mph at 42 mph with a 14-17 3 blade prop I think it was. Sold to the Highest Bidder!





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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-16-2019 at 7:57pm
Motorbox issue is primarily width but I’m not sure length wouldn’t be an issue also.

Stock small block trans is a 71c/10-17.

Stringer width is the same, motor mount width is pretty standard in the marine industry. It’s the longitudinal placement of the mounts that may not fall over the scalloped stringers (facilitating through bolts). It’s possible cc built the stringers the same for big and all block but you’ll need to confirm.


Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: April-16-2019 at 8:08pm
You could warm up and stroke a 351W and put out more ponies than a stock 454. Lighter and fixes the fitment issues....

JQ

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Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

Aqua skiing, ergo sum


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-16-2019 at 9:00pm
Originally posted by Jonny Quest Jonny Quest wrote:

You could warm up and stroke a 351W and put out more ponies than a stock 454. Lighter and fixes the fitment issues....

JQ

+ 1

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: April-16-2019 at 9:42pm
Originally posted by Jonny Quest Jonny Quest wrote:

You could warm up and stroke a 351W and put out more ponies than a stock 454. Lighter and fixes the fitment issues....

JQ


+2
Summer is already here, outta time
We'll get rid of some parts, get it all together first as a stocker
and the rest you and I mentioned we'll have to put next to the back burner
to keep the idea warm during the winter


***********************************************************************


Yes Sir I called it, When Mechanics go whiled!

Yes, the basic 351 parts ya wanna put on your Boat, are available now for instance a top kit makes a 351 amazingly better looking than a 454
(I have a new respect for FORDS)
However, a 427 is about as far as ya go and a 454 can go to a little beyond a nice light all aluminum 572!
Remember what The Teacher said in Gas Engines Class;
There are Substitutes and Substitute Teachers but, "No Substitute for Cubic Inches"!


   Well, the Fore and Aft Mount Measurement is 24.75" on centers for the 454 and IF they (The Boat and the 454) match...
Hopefully we can switch back and forth for indecisive decision making. lol
Yup, I'll be looking at Both some more AND 351s can be made to sound almost as nice!




Except, for right now The PCM 351 has almost ALL the wrong parts.
I have a really nice complete Left hand 351 a little rusty OMC
which is about as usable as the Cracked block 351 PCM for a build
I suppose I was thinking about this summer and was almost free!
So, for now we'll take the Cam and Cam timing gears, Aluminum Mallory Distributor, PCM Valve Covers, Oil Pan, Alternator, Water Pumps, Holley Single feed, Trans Cooler off the PCM 351 for the OMC 351 change into a PCM 351 plus change out the exhaust and intake I bought, call it good for the summer and look for some GT40s
and Comp Cam to bolt on while I use the boat until GT40 and Cam bolt on weekend.

In the mean time;
I'll be collecting my wish list in some much more needed parts.
1) Right hand Rotation SKAT 427 Kit including fat Flat Rods and Pistons
    May need to include an Updated Block for the collars of the tall Comp Cams roller
    Cam lifters     (454 already stroked)
2) Aluminum Oil Pan of some sort   
(454 has Aluminum Oil Pan plus windage tray, Main Bearing skirt and Water Oil Cooling)
3) Trick flow Aluminum Heads, Seems there are arguments (For Both 351 and 454)
4) 1.7 Roller rockers (For Both)
5) I have a cool High Rise Intake but, need one for the 454
6) Aluminum Exhaust or some kinda Headers for the Cool Mustang Exhaust note
    with water in it if that is possible.
(454 already has cool exhaust with nice note)   
7) Aluminum stringer to stringer wide sump Oil Pan...
(454 has the remote oil filter with cooler which can except, over a 2 quart+ filter)

8) 454 needs some Alum Heads and a cool Cam (I have Aluminum exhaust and Intake)
    Almost good to go...


     The FORD build will have to sit for now. Anybody selling parts 1 though 8?


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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-16-2019 at 11:28pm
Phil,
I happened to notice your signature line:
"1988 Antique I mean; Ski Nautique"
FYI, the "antique" class is pre WWII.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: April-17-2019 at 1:46am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Phil, LS
I happened to notice your signature line:
"1988 Antique I mean; Ski Nautique"
FYI, the "antique" class is pre WWII.


All About Me :)

Ok, I stand Corrected but, allow me to explain myself or rather indulge.
Correct Craft;
six years from being a 100 year old Antique Household name in Ski Boats and of course Unique!   See what I did there; Antique, Unique, Ski Nautique!


    You are so Right, But, this is 2019 and we're well into the next Century. So, lets take a look at the Cool Ski Boats and the really Cool engines that power them which came outta WWII and the last Century Case and point; Correct Craft which I'll tell you later has a history well into the last Century and that history will soon span 100 years not to Mention The very biggest engines, the PT Boat a very Cool Military Boat which was the start of another very cool Boat; the Cigarette Boat!

So, I wanna celebrate a little early and Cheers to waiting less than Six years for
Correct Craft's 100 year Anniversary!


Oh Man Now ya did it, I love Old Boats!
I chose a Ski Nautique Cause, of the classic Wood Boat lines, Lightest Hull I am familiar with, good flat planning hull and 1988 is getting to the end of the line, Last of the Old School Boats ya know all Chronical, no frills, no computer stuff and possibly still New enough the stringers might not need to be replaced. The engine Build part is all part of the Old School Boat thing, you know it, My thing! And a very large part of My thing is the sound an old boat should make at idle; Put-Pitchu-Thump-Put-Pitchu-Thump-Thump... kinda like a 1963 427 FORD Cammer or Twin Rows of Nine cylinders De Havilland otter, Ya know McHale's Navy PT Boat was another 1964, 1969 DZ 302 Z28 Camaro, 1971 350 LT1 and of course another favorite of mine is the quite literal side to side ROCK of a LS6 454, all cool sounding sounds from Engine exhaust of the 60s but, not exhausted and if you've heard the sound you'd know what I am talking about. As heard and seen in the above Video, with what ever engine, I am gonna bring it all back in My 1988 Ski Nautique using parts from the last Century, PCM Thermostat, PCM Air Baffle and PCM valve covers!

     With enough HP, Trust me, I'll make it fly right!     
              ...I'm gettin excited again!


Correct Craft - Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Correct_Craft
It was founded in 1925 by Walt C. Meloon as the Florida Variety Boat Company. Correct Craft is the oldest family-owned and operated boat manufacturer in the world. Correct Craft owns Nautique, Centurion, Supreme, Bass Cat, Yar-Craft, SeaArk and Bryant boat companies, Pleasure craft Engine Group, and Aktion Parks.


HISTORY OF THE COMPETITION SKI BOAT INDUSTRY
Waterskiing began in 1922 when Ralph Samuelson became the first American to invent
and ride a pair of water skis. The skis were simply crude wooden boards with rubber
foot straps and were roughly twice the length and width of today’s skis. Throughout the
1920s and 1930s, enthusiasm for waterskiing spread; in 1939, the American Water Ski
Association (AWSA) was formed as a nonprofit organization to promote the sport. That
same year, the first National Water Ski Championships were held. The towboat for the
first competition was an open wooden boat built of overlapping boards or strakes (similar to a wood johnboat) and powered by a four-cylinder outboard engine. The national championships were not held during World War II, and recreational boat manufacture was minimal during this time; after the war, however, interest and activity in the recreational boating industry increased as the economy boomed.
During the late 1940s and early 1950s, wooden inboard boats made by Chris-Craft
and Century Resorters, along with the Atom Skier by Correct Craft, were favored by
most skiers. These boats were the most powerful ski boats of the time, yet skier performance suffered due to the large wakes these boats produced. Boats with outboard motors had a smaller wake but did not have enough power until the advent of the twin rig concept in the early 1950s...

For those who Don't know Me, I love big engines, During the NASA/GE development of a Viable New engine of the future the GE36 I told em all GE36 won't work and My Patent US9810145B1 - Ducted impeller, changed the way Commercial Jets are Propelled, Propelled by Ducted Impeller, No longer Propelled by exhaust, Rather a New Twist on an old Turbo Prop idea, Every New Jet Aircraft out there uses but, silly Me was never paid, for My work was stolen by GE.
From that came the GE90, GEnx and GE9x for the 777-x...
I need a Better Attorney! Anybody?!!
Born in 1959, My life spans over Wood and fiberglass inboard Ski Boats. Most or even All the Wooden Inboard Boats I have came across during my formative years learning to water ski were actually Correct Craft plywood woodies which looked homemade and unidentifiable except for mistaken as homemade inboard Boats with Chrysler Crown, Hercules, Atomic... were some names of Flat Head Backwards Six engines in em least likely were twin Cockpit Century, Chriscraft, Reinell in that order and they all seemed to do an amazing speed of around 35 to 45mph.
I've never seen a Woody with a V8, including flat head, Nail head, over head and Hemi except in pictures.

I once owned a 194? Reinell woody with a Wisconsin Air cooled 10hp fully equipped with Neutral for My first Competition style Boat lol Yay, I made the Big time!

Yes, that's right, the fastest Boat I ever saw was a 45mph Boat until 1972 and My first Jet Boat ride in a Jolly Rodger with an All Aluminum 330 Oldsmobile engine for a Beat the heck outta Me, real flight of freight at 60Mph over Freighter waves just off Brace Point in West Seattle. That was it! I am hooked!

Correct and No argument;
A true antique is an item perceived as having value because of its aesthetic or historical significance, and often defined as at least 100 years old, although the term is often used loosely to describe any object that is old. An antique is usually an item that is collected or desirable because of its age, beauty, rarity, condition, utility, personal emotional connection, and/or other unique features. It is an object that represents a previous era or time period in human history...

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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-17-2019 at 11:05am
How about a picture of the '88?

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-17-2019 at 11:33am
Hello Phil,
     Welcome to the site. While there is no such thing as a 46 mph maximum hull speed, the hard chine on these boats combined with shaft angles and typical hook on the back of the hull can make for some dangerous conditions at higher than stock speeds. Loading makes a big difference in that you never want more weight in the front than in the back at higher speeds, and the prop design can also make a difference. I have one prop has planted the nose and spun around numerous times at 52mph, the one I run day to day doesn't get squirrely till 4-5 mph past that.   A following sea, deceleration coming down a wake.. all need to be taken into account but nothing magic about 46 except how much hp it takes to get past it.   I believe the 88 2001 has a bit more weight forward than the earlier models and my experience is mostly in earlier hulls so take a little extra caution with weight forward in your boat.   

This site is not the easiest to search, but if you go to google and do a correctcraftfan.com site search from there you should be able to find build results from just about every engine combination you would want, 351s, 408s, 427s, or 454s in hulls similar to yours.
Taking the gear reduction off your transmissions would probably be more expensive than sourcing a 1:1 72c transmission. If you have a rh motor ready to go probably about the cheapest you are going to get wet is with that motor, finding a transmission, and doing something to get a box over the motor. Glad to see you are excited about your project.


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: April-17-2019 at 6:11pm
indecisiveness

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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: April-17-2019 at 6:17pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

Hello Phil,
     Welcome to the site. While there is no such thing as a 46 mph maximum hull speed, the hard chine on these boats combined with shaft angles and typical hook on the back of the hull can make for some dangerous conditions at higher than stock speeds. Loading makes a big difference in that you never want more weight in the front than in the back at higher speeds, and the prop design can also make a difference. I have one prop has planted the nose and spun around numerous times at 52mph, the one I run day to day doesn't get squirrely till 4-5 mph past that.   A following sea, deceleration coming down a wake.. all need to be taken into account but nothing magic about 46 except how much hp it takes to get past it.   I believe the 88 2001 has a bit more weight forward than the earlier models and my experience is mostly in earlier hulls so take a little extra caution with weight forward in your boat.   

This site is not the easiest to search, but if you go to google and do a correctcraftfan.com site search from there you should be able to find build results from just about every engine combination you would want, 351s, 408s, 427s, or 454s in hulls similar to yours.
Taking the gear reduction off your transmissions would probably be more expensive than sourcing a 1:1 72c transmission. If you have a rh motor ready to go probably about the cheapest you are going to get wet is with that motor, finding a transmission, and doing something to get a box over the motor. Glad to see you are excited about your project.


                      Thank you!

       
Your Boat I think is for the most part same as mine, More very good information!
               Yes, I can see these things getting squirrelly.

   Yup, we're gonna go back a forth 454 and 351, while I accumulate parts;
The PCM 351 is going back in 1st after a Patch job (no machining) for now.
This Summer I can't go without a Boat and I have all the 351 Parts for free-free-free!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs" rel="nofollow - Hole Shot!

    !indecisiveness!
Wow, After seeing your uncanny Holeshot Video...
Same 408 stroker?
I just can't see a 454 doing that?!!   454s need a little time to build up Manifold Vacuum.
The 454 most likely WILL NOT stay in the Boat for very long.



Yes Sir, working on that avatar picture... I don't have, a good Side shot, Yet
Wait... I think I got it! Yes, There we go




      











   



1986 Magnum Skier, Had to sell cause, it would get all My Best Looking Friends Wet at Idle when going over it's own wake and we can't have that.


1991 190 with a 1999 350 Vortec, Roller Cam, 1:5 and 14-16 four blade; beat the fastest Jet Skis outta the Hole but, I couldn't get the Bow to lift up So, 46MPH plow hit a wall of and Stopped right there no faster. Sold to the Highest Bidder!

1988 454 with Truck heads Supra bravura, Cool Boat, 42MPH adjustments only no modes, I thought too heavy and Gave up. Sold to the Highest Bidder!

1980 454 Oval Port Century Coronado No Modes   Speed? Was lifting outta the Water pretty good and Beat most Jet skis. Sold to the Highest Bidder Still in Down town Snohomish!

Here's a good story; Flying Cloud 1980 Sea Ray Express, Came from Lake Union got it from the owner of https://dopemagazine.com L/R 454 twins Truck heads I think the secret is the mismatched 049 Intakes, 1.88 to 1s, for 37MPH on the GPS



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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 87sn
Date Posted: May-26-2019 at 1:19am
Hi, I have a 1987 Ski Nautique 2001 that was factory ordered and delivered with a 454. It’s not the barefoot model, but rather the ski model. This very boat was originally the tow boat of the University of Minnesota ski club team.   It’s a lot of motor in this boat. Sounds awesome. Let me know if there are any specific questions I can answer for you. I’ll do my best. Thanks

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Current Inboards:
2019 Malibu Wakesetter 23 LSV
2005 Supra Launch 21 DD
1987 CC Ski Nautique 2001 (454 cid)
1957 Century Resorter

Outboards:
Dozens of vintage outboards. I love them. Have a few fun play


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: May-26-2019 at 2:34am
Originally posted by 87sn 87sn wrote:

Hi, I have a 1987 Ski Nautique 2001 that was factory ordered and delivered with a 454. It’s not the barefoot model, but rather the ski model. This very boat was originally the tow boat of the University of Minnesota ski club team.   It’s a lot of motor in this boat. Sounds awesome. Let me know if there are any specific questions I can answer for you. I’ll do my best. Thanks



HI!

Boy, am I glade to Meet YOU!


My fear is;
I've had some boats of lesser design, 454s included, which nose drive into their own wake when turning around to pick up a downed skier, take the wave right over the windshield into My lap and down the observer's back or in the case of the Supra, water would go across the Bow deck and leak down into the Cuddy cabin through the Bow Deck hatch.

UPDATE and thanx to you, not really a question, Now

See, the original question or thought was;
I don't have a right hand 351w laying around but, I do have a right hand 454 (and a Left hand 351W/OMC).
Can a 454 go into a 1988 Ski Nautique 2001?
I don't really wish to be the first to put the right engine in the wrong boat, continue my fear and have everyone tell me "That engine doesn't even belong there"!
Looks like you answered my question, thank you very much!

Soooooooooooooo, WAS looking like I bought the wrong year. I Usually go for an older boat but, I thought I'd keep up with the Jones and Buy a Newer than my usual antics Boat, with no consideration for a 454. I thought 88 no problem. I got to thinking after I bought the 1988 Ski Nautique 2001. Fortified with All I know and found out here, before your information, was 454 up to about 1981 ish (Correct me if I am wrong as you can see in my thread here).

*****UPDATE*****
Regardless, looks like the Mounts match, removed the Cracked Block 351W from the 1988 Ski Nautique 2001. Went to work on test running the already complete 1976 Mercruiser 454 sitting in My Barn and the 454 ran horridly, with extreme blow by...
I thought, huh?!! OMG! I never did get it to run right.    

So, with last winter being a really cold one, I bought another Cracked Block but, this time a Left Hand 351W in 1990 Seaswirl Spyder Skier (to use My left hand 351W/OMC in) last week AND a recently rebuilt RIGHT HAND FWC 351W with all the trimmings Yesterday 5-24-2019 Yay! You know, who wants to change Distributor, Cool Cam, Oil Pump, Sea pump impeller Direction Plus GT40 Heads... Hope it all works and make it all NOT leak Oil again?!!   



Ok, Everything is ready, Now! Rain came, rained all day today, I caught a Bad cold and have not installed anything as of yet but, things are looking up for next week, I think


****New Question******
Even though My 454 Project is on the back burner, now...
Ok, here goes, My question for you now is;
With Driver, Observer up front in their respective seats and one extra passenger, Dose your Boat occasionally take a wave over the windshield?

...I'm thinking 454, with a large bilge pump, the Spyder Bow rider area will suck all the water inside the boat, instead of over the windshield and just get everyone's feet cold and wet



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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 87sn
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 6:42pm
Wave over the bow, it can happen it you don’t pay attention. I had a Supra Mariah from the late 80’s that would swamp all the time. Open bow and low rise. Had the 351 in it. I learned quickly to get a little gas and get the bow up in the air when crossing boat Wake rollers. It probably became habit as I do the same with the 2001. As such, I don’t take waves over the bow.

If you go by the 1988 correct craft brochure, there’s only 200 lbs difference between the barefoot natique with a 454 vs 351. My guess that same could be true for a 2001 with the 454 vs the 351 all things being equal. 200 lbs isn’t enough to squat the boat much. That’s about an average adult riding in the center of the boat. If your put 6 more people in, then yes, that extra 200 lbs will be noticeable. With just a driver and a spotter, can’t say I see the boat sitting any lower in the water than it should.

-------------
Current Inboards:
2019 Malibu Wakesetter 23 LSV
2005 Supra Launch 21 DD
1987 CC Ski Nautique 2001 (454 cid)
1957 Century Resorter

Outboards:
Dozens of vintage outboards. I love them. Have a few fun play


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: May-27-2019 at 10:28pm
Originally posted by 87sn 87sn wrote:

Wave over the bow, it can happen it you don’t pay attention. I had a Supra Mariah from the late 80’s that would swamp all the time. Open bow and low rise. Had the 351 in it. I learned quickly to get a little gas and get the bow up in the air when crossing boat Wake rollers. It probably became habit as I do the same with the 2001. As such, I don’t take waves over the bow.

If you go by the 1988 correct craft brochure, there’s only 200 lbs difference between the barefoot natique with a 454 vs 351. My guess that same could be true for a 2001 with the 454 vs the 351 all things being equal. 200 lbs isn’t enough to squat the boat much. That’s about an average adult riding in the center of the boat. If your put 6 more people in, then yes, that extra 200 lbs will be noticeable. With just a driver and a spotter, can’t say I see the boat sitting any lower in the water than it should.



You are so right and thank you for that information!
   Lifting fully dressed 454s in the past and lifting the 351w from the Donor Boat the day before yesterday and into the 1988 Ski Nautique 2001 Yesterday; I haven't noticed much difference in weight on the hook.    More to come on this subject, in the future

*Update*
I wanted to get things done today for My Birthday is today but, Taking a break
(Here's a shot of the 351W in the 1988 Ski Nautique 2001) cause, I ran short on bolts
I bought Bar Exhaust Manifolds which take eight 4" long bolts, I'll get em tomorrow...









-------------
1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: June-04-2019 at 4:41pm
*Update*
I know I started this thread out saying 454 but, figure when you're changing things Retro-fitting from stock as ordered; "Retro-fitting" is TIME and MONEY!

Was hard enough finding a matching year Marine PCM 351W but, I am glade I did change the 454 direction back to original PCM 351W;
I know you're suppose to take the whole running gear out but, I went the risky route cause, I am pressed for time. So, separated the original engine from the boat at the bell housing and Block to engine mounts (Risky cause, the bell housing alignment dowels are usually rusted in on the way out and clutch splines need to line up with trans splines on the way in plus the mounts are in the way for this but, it all slipped out and back together like a good plan), worked great for back in and alignment. The replacement PCM 351W has all the marine gear on it PLUS FWC cooling for HEATER and all those wish list aluminum updates, no retro fitting, No drilling holes, changing mounts or Fuel filter side AND the Engine Electrical harness just plugged in.

Done?!! No!

I spent more time on setting up an Electronic Mallory distributor, chasing why the engine would NOT shut off (Needs the original ignition resister voltage drop to shut off) and of course the infamous clogged fuel line. Added spin on filter but, need to get a shorty filter spin on so cover will close easier. Hint; The fuel tank pickup screen is inside the Fuel pickup tube where the tube separates from the Tank 90 degree fitting, removed the Filter element, using original filter housing as a settlement bowel ONLY and added a Mercruiser spin on filter which matches the original filter bolt locations.

I think or hope I am done now?!! and going for water test soon...



-------------
1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-04-2019 at 5:08pm
Originally posted by 2001 2001 wrote:

*



I spent more time on setting up an Electronic Mallory distributor, chasing why the engine would NOT shut off (Needs the original ignition resister voltage drop to shut off)



I'm not feeling too smart today, cam you explain this statement?


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: June-04-2019 at 6:43pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by 2001 2001 wrote:

*



I spent more time on setting up an Electronic Mallory distributor, chasing why the engine would NOT shut off (Needs the original ignition resister voltage drop to shut off)



I'm not feeling too smart today, cam you explain this statement?



   Mallory Electronic wants the Higher Voltage attained before the ignition resister, prefered and this works great but, When ignition switch is turned off and or the Rest set switch on the dash is tripped at High Idle; The Alternator "Exciter" (is Missing a Zener Diode and this being an isolated case? For sure, a "Retro fit" issue) actually back feeds the ignition (See Schematic).

I believe, the Mallory Electronic CAN operate with the low Amperage output of the "Exciter" which dose NOT directly explain the inner workings of how the "Coil" is able to produce a spark in this Case?


Also, on the wiring note, a word of caution, like it or not (No safety fusable links or fuses exist in the entire electrical system), the 30 to 50 amp RED RESET switch absolutely HAS TO BE IN THE CIRCUIT! The dash reset switch is a good idea too but, I think two clear glass tube fuses one to feed the ignition and one to feed the dash and an actual Marine RED Perko Battery disconnect would be safer and more reliable in keeping with Marine standards.


Note: I think the exciter side of the Alternator needs to be energized periodically to maintain the Alternator Polarity, Bridge rectifier and Diodes.

https://www.amazon.com/Perko-9601DP-Marine-Battery-Disconnect/dp/B00144BF9Q/ref=asc_df_B00144BF9Q/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584070138128089&psc=1




-------------
1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-04-2019 at 7:07pm
Originally posted by 2001 2001 wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by 2001 2001 wrote:

*



I spent more time on setting up an Electronic Mallory distributor, chasing why the engine would NOT shut off (Needs the original ignition resister voltage drop to shut off)



I'm not feeling too smart today, cam you explain this statement?



   Mallory wants the Higher Voltage attained before the ignition resister, prefered and this works great but, When ignition switch is turned off and or the Rest set switch on the dash is tripped at High Idle; The Alternator "Exciter" (is Missing a Zener Diode and this being an isolated case?) actually back feeds the ignition (See Schematic).

Also, on the wiring note, a word of caution, like it or not (No safety fusable links or fuses exist in the entire electrical system), the 30 to 50 amp RED RESET switch absolutely HAS TO BE IN THE CIRCUIT! The dash reset switch is a good idea too but, I think a clear glass tube fuse and an actual Marine RED Perko Battery disconnect would be safer and more reliable in keeping with Marine standards.

https://www.amazon.com/Perko-9601DP-Marine-Battery-Disconnect/dp/B00144BF9Q/ref=asc_df_B00144BF9Q/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584070138128089&psc=1




So go find that missing diode wherever it went or get an alternator that functions as it should and you won't have to blame things on the distributor or the ballast resistor

You said it yourself "it's an "isolated case" because of your alternator


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: June-04-2019 at 7:39pm
[/QUOTE]

So go find that missing diode wherever it went or get an alternator that functions as it should and you won't have to blame things on the distributor or the ballast resistor

You said it yourself "it's an "isolated case" because of your alternator[/QUOTE]


   There ya see, imagine what I'd have to figure out for a 454 retro fit!

Correct! And Yes, your answer seemingly being the best solution!
However, I think a stock solution is always the best;
Power or wire the Electronic Distributor as shown on the Schematic.

A Marine electrical system WAS a careful balance of resistance, amperage and properly sized wires rather than the LATEST ECM, Diodes and Electronic relays.
This why I think the "Ballast Resister" is serving a dual purpose in doing the work or Job of the Diode with Voltage drop.

We'll also look into a
good quality Balmar Marine Alternator to see if the Diode exits or what their solution is.

A water test will tell some too. ...More to come



-------------
1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-04-2019 at 10:00pm
So what kind of alternator do you have on that thing?



Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 3:10am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

So what kind of alternator do you have on that thing?



   -Uncertain-
Looks like the typical Alternator PCM, Indmar, Mercruiser, OMC, Volvo... used at the time with External Regulator on the Back.
The Identification plate is not legible.
Delco Remy?


*UPDATE*
Water test today 6/4/2019!
My Humble opinion; Except for the Dash reset switch, missing The Starter Solenoid Ballast resister by pass circuit and missing a Perko Disconnect switch, The wiring diagram is Marine standard correct for the 1980s, the Boat is wired correctly per the Wiring diagram shown above or uploaded in previous Message here in this forum and the Boat runs, shuts down and starts superbly.
Also My Humble opinion, during the water test I have concluded, the Ballast Resister
is the only thing keeping the Back feed of the Alternator Exciter circuit from allowing Engine run on after ignition shut down.

Note:
The Starter Solenoid resister by pass circuit is not used, most likely for the same reason.




-------------
1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 8:42am
Phil,
Regarding the engine not shutting down, you have mentioned you feel the ignition is still getting the volts when the key switch is turned off.. What voltage are you reading and where? have you tried disconnecting the alternator?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 9:02am
Originally posted by 2001 2001 wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

So what kind of alternator do you have on that thing?



   -Uncertain-
Looks like the typical Alternator PCM, Indmar, Mercruiser, OMC, Volvo... used at the time with External Regulator on the Back.
The Identification plate is not legible.
Delco Remy?


*UPDATE*
Water test today 6/4/2019!
My Humble opinion; Except for the Dash reset switch, missing The Starter Solenoid Ballast resister by pass circuit and missing a Perko Disconnect switch, The wiring diagram is Marine standard correct for the 1980s, the Boat is wired correctly per the Wiring diagram shown above or uploaded in previous Message here in this forum and the Boat runs, shuts down and starts superbly.
Also My Humble opinion, during the water test I have concluded, the Ballast Resister
is the only thing keeping the Back feed of the Alternator Exciter circuit from allowing Engine run on after ignition shut down.

Note:
The Starter Solenoid resister by pass circuit is not used, most likely for the same reason.




Funny that you think PCM used a resistor bypass circuit for starting on their 351's back then and it somehow was left off the diagram.

Funny how some companies used the bypass and others didn't

Funny that you don't know what you have for an Alternator.

Funny that some alternators will always backfeed through the exciter wire and others won't since they're built differently

Funny that nobody else with a correctly functioning Motorola or Mando alternator that came on the mid 80's PCM 351.s has this problem

Also funny that you feel the need to tell everybody how PCM should have done the wiring

I can understand how and why the resistor is letting the engine shut off, but if your alternator is backfeeding through the exciter wire it's easy enough to prevent that and still bypass the ballast resistor, but I'm sure you can figure that out, since you seem to think you have everything else figured out.



Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 2:16pm
Phil,
Barbs aside, get us some more info so we can possibly help with your engine continuing to run problem. As previously mentioned, get some voltage readings and then disconnect the alternator and see what happens. Also, take a close look at the ignition switch and Ohm it out to see if the problem could be as simple as a bad switch.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 4:06pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

[QUOTE=2001] [QUOTE=KENO]Funny that you think PCM used a resistor bypass circuit for starting on their 351's back then and it somehow was left off the diagram.

Funny how some companies used the bypass and others didn't

Funny that you don't know what you have for an Alternator.

Funny that some alternators will always backfeed through the exciter wire and others won't since they're built differently

Funny that nobody else with a correctly functioning Motorola or Mando alternator that came on the mid 80's PCM 351.s has this problem

Also funny that you feel the need to tell everybody how PCM should have done the wiring

I can understand how and why the resistor is letting the engine shut off, but if your alternator is backfeeding through the exciter wire it's easy enough to prevent that and still bypass the ballast resistor, but I'm sure you can figure that out, since you seem to think you have everything else figured out.





My comments are True and My intent is correct.
You need only to sit back relax, read correctly, understand and learn.
These comments come at a time when you thought you couldn't be taught!

Not so very funny, YOU have misread my Text and have come to an entirely different conclusion when so many rely on your opinions for better running boats.

YOU are a Hysterically Funny Man! Are you short?
YOU have become deflated in misreading my comments, have taken My comments YOU misread personally as if YOU wrote the Correct Craft Book and are now incorrectly reflecting or Mirroring your misunderstandings back at Me as if YOUR issues are My issues?!! I am NOT the one with issues, here LOL!
A typical in-confident entry level Manager 101 mistake but, this IS funny LOL!

Common to 80s Indmar, PCM, Correct Craft and Supra

I'll state it again so as you can understand;
In The Mallory EI case, The lower voltage is need to stop making and breaking...
The EI is an update not common to the 80s, IF and when the updated EI schematic
(I uploaded here) is followed correctly there is no problem! Duh! LOL!

However, it is what it is, schematic flaws and differences aside;
The dash ignition reset button is problematic and Unprecedented, the missing resistor bypass circuit is unprecedented AND the missing Perko disconnect switch is unprecedented and entirely unacceptable.
As stated here and above, Physically on the Boat AND as written in the Schematics common to those Manufactures noted above.

Noted: In an Earlier post in another forum, a user shows where he has bypassed the Resistor. For boats since they are not used very often, build up condensation under the distributor Cap, Condensation at the center High Voltage Coil connection... The extra heat generated from the Engine AND ignition components burning up could possibly help evaporate off Marine condensation LOL!

Yes, You SHOULD feel short, now! LOL!

-------------
1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 4:10pm
I’m trying to pinpoint the socio/psycho condition you obviously have but am coming up short at the moment.


Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 5:30pm
HW/KENO

I don’t know why 2001 has come to our peaceful site and attempted to destroy the peace and harmony we live by, but maybe we could all see this coming. I know I did and surely others. When you come here to tout your engineering prowess and technical aptitude but wind up insulting some of the most helpful people I’ve ever encountered, you’re going to be swiftly discounted and tossed from the great Rolodex of cherished contributors. 2001, you need to find another forum to show off your moderately unimpressive skills and knowledge. In other words, take a hike.


Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 5:53pm
Pete,
Stop, I just made popcorn ....

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05' SV211 TE
73' Martinique
had:96' SNOB
had:76' Nautique
had 77 Tique

       



Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 6:11pm
Phil,
I suggest starting over leaving out what you feel is technically wrong and concentrating on the problem. I feel we can help if you simply tell us what you have tested and the results.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 6:15pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Phil,
I suggest starting over leaving out what you feel is technically wrong and concentrating on the problem. I feel we can help if you simply tell us what you have tested and the results.


Bulleted points vs PhD dissertations might facilitate understanding of the problems. Just sayin'

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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 6:33pm
Originally posted by 75 Tique 75 Tique wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Phil,
I suggest starting over leaving out what you feel is technically wrong and concentrating on the problem. I feel we can help if you simply tell us what you have tested and the results.


Bulleted points vs PhD dissertations might facilitate understanding of the problems. Just sayin'

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Phil,. As previously mentioned, get some voltage readings and then disconnect the alternator and see what happens. Also, take a close look at the ignition switch and Ohm it out to see if the problem could be as simple as a bad switch.


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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 8:13pm
Originally posted by tryathlete tryathlete wrote:

HW/KENO

I don’t know why 2001 has come to our peaceful site and attempted to destroy the peace and harmony we live by, but maybe we could all see this coming. I know I did and surely others. When you come here to tout your engineering prowess and technical aptitude but wind up insulting some of the most helpful people I’ve ever encountered, you’re going to be swiftly discounted and tossed from the great Rolodex of cherished contributors. 2001, you need to find another forum to show off your moderately unimpressive skills and knowledge. In other words, take a hike.


Peter Don't worry about me, I got me some of that boiler plate thick skin with an extra layer of rhino liner on top

Old white haired Pete Phil obviously has it all figured out, just ask him and he'll tell ya'
he doesn't need any help, he said "it starts, runs and turns off superbly" doing it his way

And Phil, i get the feeling you know a lot but just like the rest of us, there's a lot you don't know too so stick around and you might teach people some good stuff and you'll learn some good stuff too.  And don't call me short.......I'm exactly 4 ft 11 inches tall in heels 

And MOJO, I hope you didn't make a big batch of popcorn


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 10:06pm
Keno, you took one for the team, I might have blown a fuse on this one.

As already stated, many forums are nothing more than a lot of attitude thrown around, this one has been blessed by helpful advice, it is not 100% accurate every time but it is the very best available for the high price of FREE and eventually everyone has received quality help and got back on the water. 2001 read quite a few old posts on any subject and you will learn I speak the truth on this.   




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Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: June-05-2019 at 10:12pm
I kinda feel like....“Who care if me eat carrot or collard greens? Me also like broccoli and lettuce and lima beans. Me still Cookie Monster. That not a sham.

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: June-06-2019 at 3:13am
Ladies and Gentlemen, the Grand Poobah!
Ya gotta love that Guy!
Ain't he great?!!
Lets give him a big round of Applause, Yay!
Grand Poobah! Everybody, Yay!

   Thank you, I like it here

Keep in mind these Boats I speak of, were made when Boat Towing was absolutely free.
And now, ya Absolutely need towing insurance!

Let's change that Antique Ski Nautique and make it live up to it's Name "Correct Craft".

Lets make everyone's day on the lake, the best it can be!

So, let's be straight, lets try and point out the corrections or updates, these boats should have to make them as Reliable and Beautiful on the inside as they are on the outside.
Like we all know a Holley is way prettier and performs better than a Rochester but, with just one cough, spit or sneeze guess which is more reliable?   Right! The Ugly Rochester/Edelbrock and Carter/Quadrajet/Spread Bore.
Another one is; Spin on Filters, Only! Toss or Cram the original Fram filter.
Sorry, Fuel injection People but, it is what it is and you are stuck with what ever that is.
The Tank pick up needs to be checked regularly.
Another one is; Chevy style Starter (Solenoid relay, Bendix and Starter together) can be ran in conjunction with original Ford style starter relay
Another one is; While Starting, the momentary Resistor bypass circuit needs to be there for lightning fast starts!
Just to name a few...

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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-06-2019 at 9:03am
Why stop there, if it's just a few?

How about a little something on your alternator belt alignment, must be some little known reason to run it so crooked

Must be another reason to mount the fuel filter horizontally other than dumping a bunch of gas in the bilge when you unscrew it

Just call me "eager to do some learnin' "   




Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-06-2019 at 9:42am
Some learnin:



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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: June-06-2019 at 4:22pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Some learnin:




Yup, Quick draw install!   
I took the picture in that direction to see if you'd notice, very good

This was a running engine in a Twin Screw 34 foot 1984 Carver, ran this way from Ballard to Everett (The Sea Marie Ballard Wa) figuratively without tossing either Belt
(thought I'd avoid problems being already installed in a Boat, NOT!).

Yes, The belt problem needs to go away immediately before the Boat goes in the water
again.

   Last registration for the Boat was 2008;
There is gonna be a heck of a lotta New filters purchased in the near Future!
All the Gas spilling and there is also gonna be a heck of a lot of Gas spilling,
has to be done where the filter is now.
So, as the Gas can run out the Plug hole, out of the Boat, into a pan on the Ground, a towel will wipe up the bilge mess and notice the Vent hose will pickup the fumes, hopefully.
The filter has no place to go yet... Until the Fuel problem is cleared up.
Vertical, upside down or sideways, I can't get a spin on filter off without spilling Gas.
So, sideways it is, with the towel the Filter comes off, I can keep an eye on Gas leaking out at anytime with a short lift of the cover and I can get a hand on the filter without a Filter wrench









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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-06-2019 at 7:14pm


I'm the same way with filters


Posted By: rosconole
Date Posted: June-10-2019 at 1:54am
There nothing wrong with the belt or the filter. except for everyone crying about it.

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1989 ski nautique ,1991 barefoot nautique, 1993 Mustang Cobra 1998 5.0 Magazine shootout invitee


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: June-10-2019 at 4:34am
Originally posted by rosconole rosconole wrote:

There nothing wrong with the belt or the filter. except for everyone crying about it.



You're right or rather you would normally be right!
Woulda been fine, I am sure others are like this and look at the pump side
if ya tighten the belt too tight, same thing happens on all of em. Be ware!
But, Ya see, I-I-I have been meddling, with the Boat and I don't wanna leave anything I know about to chance.

So, it IS my fault not the Boat's fault. Lol!
Good conversation and practice though, ain't it great

1) I think the Engine assembly I chose, was in and outta the Boat it was in a few times,
someone dropped and Bent the Alternator bracket     ...Since it's case Iron, I don't know
   how it didn't break off?!!   Hey, on the water test the Alternator belt stayed on but,
   tossed the pump belt instead. I couldn't wait to try it as was.
   Oh yeah and I thought the bigger 105amp Alternator would be cool!
   But, looks like the original 50amp Alternator needs to go back on cause, the engine
   wiring looks like a short run of about #8 set up for 40amps with a 50amp reset switch.
    Damn!

2) The Engine came from a different Boat but, I thought I'd be ahead of the game
   since it was all set up and running, WRONG. These things, new or used never go right.
   There is always the unforeseen going boat to boat or New to Boat.   
   I'm still saving time over the 454 swap! I would of been done on May 27Th but, I got
   sick with a weird Cold.

So, I found another check valve in the Fuel line (Other than the one on the Fuel tank)
a couple days ago (I can't believe that Stuff?!!). The Valve was actually singing a high pitch tune to me. Definite different fitting than all others, common only to check ball fittings, has a rather long Nut area for the check ball.
I took a picture in case other people run into a similar problem and a snap of My Pulley alignment. I checked the fuel tank pickup screen, Fuel tank dirt seems clean enough to pass the screen, now... We'll be changing those corroded looking parts out but, for now; Time for a filter change, water test and tune. Yay!







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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: June-10-2019 at 4:53am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:



I'm th e same way with filters



Thank you, Keno!
I don't leave home without em





Speaking of filters, Ya know, paddling comes to mind...
There's 10 miles to the gallon but, With the price of Gas,
I bet a pair of Oar locks and really long Oars would work well!
Use the engine cover as a comfy rowing seat. Nice!
...Competition Row Boat

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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: June-12-2019 at 2:26am
****UPDATE*****
Sea Water pump bracket is flimsy

Recommend
Mercruiser Marine
Sea Pump Bracket attachment
               -or-
Volvo (and Indmar) Marine
Harmonic Balancer attached
Both are FORD
I don't know the part numbers yet


Also allows a Better Mercruiser Sea Pump


              -or-



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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: June-16-2019 at 1:40am
*****UPDATE*******
I should of included this one with the Fuel filter and Check Valve Post but,
I thought, I should post it separate Because, it deserves emphasis and the best should be last or next to last! Also, I wanted to look through the site to see if anyone else... ya know.



This is the holey Boaters gripe of all time and I am NOT religious or anything but, an opening comment must be said to all Lol
Paul's Greeting to the Ephesians. 1 Paul, an apostle of Christ Jesus by the will of God, . To the saints in Ephesus, a the faithful in Christ Jesus: 2 Grace and peace to you from God our Father and the Lord Jesus Christ.. Spiritual Blessings (Romans 8:28-34)3 Blessed be the God and Father of our Lord Jesus Christ, who has blessed us in Christ with every spiritual blessing in the heavenly realms.


Ok, here goes... I stated before I am not fond of Holley Carburetors IE: Power Valve, Dual Metering blocks, One metering Block, Dual feed, Single feed, Double pumper, Single Pumper, Dual metering blocks, Externally set float, NO externally set float,,, Christ Jesus by the will of God, Just make it one way!

For all you Boaters out there in Boater land who have rebuilt your Carburetors
and now your Boat runs great after spending $300.00 to $800.00;

     !Surprise!


The other Inline fuel screen (NOT a filter) is located where the Fuel line connects to the Carburetor on most Carburetors (Besides the Tank screen).

The screen (in Holley's case) is soooooooooooo small and fine there is NOT enough area to actually pass gas for more than 600 hours MAX and if it doesn't get plugged with Dirt then it will get soooooooo rusty, the rust won't pass Gas either and or both.
Note: Most other Carburetors utilize a filter in this area.

IMHO: Simply Just remove the fuel screen, clean the fittings and carefully reconnect the fuel line (Leaving the screen out) so as to NOT cross thread or crack the Metal fuel line flared end (The fuel line from Pump to Carburetor is METAL if this is not the case then get some transmission cooling tube and bend up yourself a new Steel fuel line).

The New spin on (water) filter (built for the new fuel injected Boat engines) you just installed will do the work of the screen from now on.

Also, your engine will now most likely run at least fair even if needs rebuilding and the Carburetor spacer leaks. A little starter fluid squirted at the Carb base will tell all with RPM surge if it IS leaking.
I know Starter fluid is dangerous but, the most you'll get is a flash burn as long as you spray it while the engine is running in short bursts and NO puddles.

Now that the Boat runs!
Nothing to do now but, Enjoy your Nice Hot Summer Weekends!







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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: June-16-2019 at 12:10pm
Originally posted by 2001 2001 wrote:

Also, your engine will now most likely run at least fair even if needs rebuilding and the Carburetor spacer leaks. A little starter fluid squirted at the Carb base will tell all with RPM surge if it IS leaking.
I know Starter fluid is dangerous but, the most you'll get is a flash burn as long as you spray it while the engine is running in short bursts and NO puddles.

I'd stay away from ether for that purpose, use carb cleaner instead, quite a bit safer.

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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: June-17-2019 at 10:59am
By evidence, crap in the fuel system and one blames the carb?

They do know the largest size debris their carb will successfully pass. hence the screen

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: June-24-2019 at 2:14am
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

Originally posted by 2001 2001 wrote:

Also, your engine will now most likely run at least fair even if needs rebuilding and the Carburetor spacer leaks. A little starter fluid squirted at the Carb base will tell all with RPM surge if it IS leaking.
I know Starter fluid is dangerous but, the most you'll get is a flash burn as long as you spray it while the engine is running in short bursts and NO puddles.

I'd stay away from ether for that purpose, use carb cleaner instead, quite a bit safer.


Right, Maybe we all should forget that one!
We don't wanna burn up a Nice Boat.
How about a 2 Foot long Hose held up to your ear...
Works like a stethoscope, move the other end around the Base of the Carburetor
and listen for leaks. You won't believe what ya can hear!
Works for Valve taps, Ignition zaps from Bad spark plug wires (turn off the lights works better)...

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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: June-24-2019 at 2:42am
*****UPDATE******

Used Indmar exhaust Manifolds on the Ski Naugtique DONE and FORSALE $5k!
Jump forward, using the same on the Spyder (AKA MasterCraft Tristar) 351W left hand rotation PCM Engine. Replacement Engine, already installed, during the "jump Forward".


Not saying the Indmars perform better (The Marine Industry says the PCM smaller port is for low end torque and less Gas) but, I am saying the Indmar exhaust Manifolds are way heavier than the PCMs and with that said, the Indmars are less likely to Leak exhaust at the cylinder head ports where they attach, later down the lake.
For the performance end?   ...We'll see, The GPS will tell all, LOL!


   -Indmar vs PCM-


Ya know how we've talked about performance issues before. Lol!
There is a Forum some where, asking your best Boat speed but, I don't know where it is.
I was surprised to see the wide variance in GPS readings for the exact same STOCK boat...      



I found a rather large performance issue
    


No harm in information, Just information, take it, use it or round file it.
Don't get me wrong, I am not a Mastercraft fan at all!
Mastercrafts are still ugly right up to 2020 but, I'm sorry, it is what it is



                   Just might have a little something to do with the "variance"



   While digging up another set of Indmar exhaust Manifolds for my Spyder project and Besides being expensive... Wanna see what I found?!!

    
   Without deviating from STOCK parts;
Here is a Block off plate for a 454 Mercruiser Elbow, it IS the Biggest elbow STOCK port I know of (For the Obsolete "log manifold"), shown against an Indmar Manifold (seems to disappear because, the 454 Mercruiser Block off plate ALMOST FITS the Indmar exhaust Manifold elbow 3" x 1.75" port), shown again aside the Indmar (So, ya can see the 454 Block off plate vs the Indmar Exhaust Manifold port) and again against a PCM Manifold's 2.9" x 1.38" Port. .
FYI: Indmar Manifold's have four long bolts and PCMs have eight short bolts a side for EZID (Possible the actual casting May say something besides PCM ...maybe Barr).







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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: July-02-2019 at 1:16am
https://youtu.be/cTGo442N1VQ
Hopefully, A Guy is coming by Tuesday 7-2-2019 with $6500.00 and then I'll continue on the Spyder!

Grand Poo Bah was right, ALL Apologies!
After I put a new Battery in and both the Boat and I were all charged up! The System voltage went all ca poof and the engine wouldn't shut down again (Not Diesel related).
The correct PCM Alternator popped back on in a flash, the Power wire for the EI and Hour Meter went back to before the Resister and Problem vanished!



There's too many variables to say (Like the Long block isn't broken in yet, I think I am still missing one or two MPH after 45 mph for lack of fuel pressure.) IF the Indmar exhaust is faster but, I think it IS louder AND just might be a little quicker outta the hole but, no proof there.

I'll say everything I got after 41 mph was all due to Full speed advance dial in.

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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: July-23-2019 at 2:42am
Put a 2 speed dual fan Red Dot Heater in the 2001 (Really HOT),
FYI everyone; fits nice and flush in the high side of the driver's Toe board (Away from damage), just to the right of the Fire extinguisher!

New problems and questions;
The Spyder's a no run situation
Cause, of the DISTRIBUTOR LH MBI MALLORY Unilite Module.
Heads Up! The Mallory Unilite Module is sensitive to voltage spikes. Really?!! Go figure!
So, I blew $121.00 plus tax for a replacement for
Unilite Module C.A.R.B. E.O. D-70-9 (27/02/12)
2/27/2012? I guess that means it's too old also, right?
I'm buying the Isolators too for $70.00 x 2
All For a $650.00 Distributor x 2
I figure, I'm paying for the configurable attributes and not reliability?!! Right?

Still have the Ski Nautique 2001 and I am working this problem and fuel consumption;
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14512&title=total-timing-351w

Running same as Spyder's Mallory but, opposite rotation Distributor on the 2001 with different issues; Timing Curve and I think the total advance (What ever it is set at) is too much cause, I got a High Speed Kick back, Carburetor Pop or spit on Lake Washington today. Scary! Hope I didn't damage my better Holley.

There's a Mallory 24 degree total Timing set Key but, I'll guess cause, I don't have one.

Anyways, The 2001 situation is; when dialed in for High Speed, at idle I get a Thud Thud Thud… and when I dial the timing in for low speed, I get the Carburetor pop at High Speed.
Soooooooo, when timing set correctly, pulls really really nice outta the hole, Top speed is fair at 45 Mph (I think she's still sand bagging me) but, Thud Thud Thud… at low speed in gear. Fuel consumption seems ok, at about 3.6 mpg at 20mph figured by Full tank From Kenmore Boat Ramp to The shallow marker in Juanita Beach, shut down for an hour, Continued to Moss bay and ended up at Caroline point Gas dock, filled up with 3 gallons in about 11 miles. And for the return trip 5 gallons with four short WOT tests. Return trip; From Gas dock Ran along 520 Heading west, Right turn North passed Kurt and Courtney Love's old place, to Nordstrom's Members Dock, back South to 520 and North past Sand point Boat Ramp, back over to the East side (Juanita Beach point), straight back to Kenmore Sammamish Slough, with one last High Speed Turn from the Slough, West along the Kenmore Water ski course heading south and back heading east to the Kenmore Slough boat ramp again or 8 gallons total for 3 hours total run time and about 27 miles (Filled up at Home 5 gallons).

Question; For Fuel Consumption; That's about right, Right?

I've become accustom to 3 mpg for small Blocks Chevs up to 21 feet and then mpg falls off sharply there after 19 feet toward 1 mpg for 23 feet is the worst I've seen
(Doesn't really change too much for speed).
Someone somewhere said; 10 mpg?!! I'm not seeing how this is possible.

Also, Thank you for recommending to keep the Boat STOCK, she's got a nice FORD sound kinda sorta a Big block exhaust note, a little loud and over all BEAUTIFUL!




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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-23-2019 at 9:17am
It's either a Unilite or a MBI(magnetic breakerless ignition) but not both, so you have a Unilite obviously.

You also have a lighter wallet than you really needed to have, because you could have bought a Mallory E Spark module which only costs about 1/2 of the Unilite.

According to Mallory the only difference is that the Unilite was put together by humans and the E Spark was done by automated machines.

Being naturally cheap, I like the E Spark myself

And speaking of 24 degree keys, the width of one of those is 0.22 inches, so I'd start with that measurement for your advance limiter setting

I think your fuel consumption numbers sound OK.


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: July-23-2019 at 1:40pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

It's either a Unilite or a MBI(magnetic breakerless ignition) but not both, so you have a Unilite obviously.

You also have a lighter wallet than you really needed to have, because you could have bought a Mallory E Spark module which only costs about 1/2 of the Unilite.

According to Mallory the only difference is that the Unilite was put together by humans and the E Spark was done by automated machines.

Being naturally cheap, I like the E Spark myself

And speaking of 24 degree keys, the width of one of those is 0.22 inches, so I'd start with that measurement for your advance limiter setting

I think your fuel consumption numbers sound OK.


   In my defense;
Would have made things a lot easier using two of the three other stock FORD points distributors (One right hand) I have laying around here but, they are so rusty...
Must be the Seattle, Washington Air.
So, I just tossed on (as set) this USED Mallory, The Best I have.
The previous owner must have molested this one for over 30 degrees advance,
go figure

Yes, Unilite
Ooooppss!
Copy that, very nice Key Dimension (7/32 Drill), Very nice Advance curve too (Most Excellent hole shot) and Thank you!      

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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 2001
Date Posted: July-25-2019 at 7:51pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

It's either a Unilite or a MBI(magnetic breakerless ignition) but not both, so you have a Unilite obviously.

You also have a lighter wallet than you really needed to have, because you could have bought a Mallory E Spark module which only costs about 1/2 of the Unilite.

According to Mallory the only difference is that the Unilite was put together by humans and the E Spark was done by automated machines.

Being naturally cheap, I like the E Spark myself

And speaking of 24 degree keys, the width of one of those is 0.22 inches, so I'd start with that measurement for your advance limiter setting

I think your fuel consumption numbers sound OK.




Ok, Using your Numbers and Thank you very much, Grand Poo Bah!
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14512&title=total-timing-351w

Today,
I got the number I was actually looking for with a 454, and that number is 46 with a SBF!
Still starving a little for fuel on the Top end, might get 46.5 mph when that is remedied.


So, to all, if ya wanna get your boat to run right;
I would recommend anyone to use Grand Poo Bah's ignition Numbers here but, I would consult again for the GT40 and... higher performance engine numbers.






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1988 2001 Ski Nautique


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-25-2019 at 10:47pm
Umm............They were your numbers, I just gave you the measurement of the key for setting a Mallory YH advance mechanism to have 24 degrees of advance on top of the base timing.to fill in a little of your knowledge deficiency 



Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-25-2019 at 10:51pm
Originally posted by 2001So, to all, if ya wanna get your boat to run right;<br />I would recommend anyone to use Grand Poo Bah's ignition Numbers here but, I would consult again for the GT40 and... higher performance engine numbers.[/QUOTE 2001So, to all, if ya wanna get your boat to run right;
I would recommend anyone to use Grand Poo Bah's ignition Numbers here but, I would consult again for the GT40 and... higher performance engine numbers.[/QUOTE wrote:




The GT40 is a whole different animal, the timing is set totally different than a standard 351


The GT40 is a whole different animal, the timing is set totally different than a standard 351



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