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Antifreez test

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47170
Printed Date: May-04-2024 at 2:37am


Topic: Antifreez test
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Subject: Antifreez test
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 10:33am
Per Ken's suggestion ("goating") , I ran a test on -50 RV antifreeze overnight. We only got down to a -28 but it was still cold enough to get a good test. Here's the test set up:



The results were very obvious. The full strength was slushy and showed no signs of any expansion. The 25/75 was fairly hard and did expand. The 50/50 was the worst and it was rock hard .and did expand. If ether the 25/75 or the 50/50 were confined, I'd have to say the expansion would do some damage in a hard vessel.

My recommendation for winterizing a block remains the same. Always drain first and then add the antifreeze. As an additional step draining some of the antifreeze out of the low points to see if there's any water is still in the block is a good practice. If you have a refractometer, take a test to see what the freeze protection is. The bottom line is water mixed into the RV antifreeze is bad. Those of you that suck especially without draining are taking a BIG chance. The recommended procedure in the manual is to remove a hose and pour the anti in. Pretty simple!!! Every spring we seem to have someone post a problem with something on his engine or even the block that froze.

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Replies:
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 10:46am
Good work Pete. I've never understood what's so hard about just draining everything.


Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 11:30am
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Good work Pete. I've never understood what's so hard about just draining everything.


What's even odder is how belligerently some people will defend not draining. From PN last fall...




30 liters....yeah, that's money well spent.

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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 11:56am
A fool and his money.


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 12:03pm
I concur. Drain

I use pglycol in a bucket mouse trap over the winter.
Even the modest of dilution would mess it up and make a hard slush

shudder what pizpoor ratios develop on a water-filler block.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 12:05pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Per Ken's suggestion ("goating") , I ran a test on -50 RV antifreeze overnight. We only got down to a -28 but it was still cold enough to get a good test. Here's the test set up:



The results were very obvious. The full strength was slushy and showed no signs of any expansion. The 25/75 was fairly hard and did expand. The 50/50 was the worst and it was rock hard .and did expand. If ether the 25/75 or the 50/50 were confined, I'd have to say the expansion would do some damage in a hard vessel.

My recommendation for winterizing a block remains the same. Always drain first and then add the antifreeze. As an additional step draining some of the antifreeze out of the low points to see if there's any water is still in the block is a good practice. If you have a refractometer, take a test to see what the freeze protection is. The bottom line is water mixed into the RV antifreeze is bad. Those of you that suck especially without draining are taking a BIG chance. The recommended procedure in the manual is to remove a hose and pour the anti in. Pretty simple!!! Every spring we seem to have someone post a problem with something on his engine or even the block that froze.


Pete

I think you meant to say "goading" not "goating"

Here's a definition of goading
"provoke or annoy (someone) so as to stimulate some action or reaction".

I not sure what you do with the goats on a cold winter night up there, but that's between you and the them

I am pretty annoying   

But anyways....... on to the antifreeze discussion

We had a mild 2 below zero night last night and I took a glass bottle filled with a 50/50 mix of the minus 50 F stuff capped it and set it outside during the afternoon and let it sit till this morning.

I figured maybe the bottle would break but this morning the bottle was intact and the cap had deformed enough that the seal wasn't great and there was frozen pink stuff around the cap area on the outside. Kinda like a freeze,casting,core or whatever else you might refer to it as plug that was pushed out but the cap threads kept it from coming all the way off.

I figure that burst protection at this temperature was marginal at best so all those southern boys that don't drain and just suck up 5 gallons might be protected down to a little below zero for burst protection...........maybe

Also did the same with a bottle with a 75% antifreeze/25% water mix and like expected, it froze and had no effect on the bottle or the cap seal area. This would be kinda like getting most of the water out and pouring in some of the minus 50 stuff

Like has been said on here for a long time and Pete said again, if you drain first, it's really hard to screw things up no matter what you do after that.





Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 12:21pm
Originally posted by 75 Tique 75 Tique wrote:

Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Good work Pete. I've never understood what's so hard about just draining everything.


What's even odder is how belligerently some people will defend not draining. From PN last fall...
.

Funny that PN came to mind after both of these posts!   

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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 12:21pm
Can't imagine the residual water in a block is any more than 8 oz, which is only about 3% if you add 2 gal on top of it.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 12:29pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Can't imagine the residual water in a block is any more than 8 oz, which is only about 3% if you add 2 gal on top of it.


Sounds reasonable. I just picked a worse case number like 25% water.

Which is probably why your way and my way of winterizing which are pretty much the same work for us with no issues


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 12:32pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Can't imagine the residual water in a block is any more than 8 oz, which is only about 3% if you add 2 gal on top of it.

But Bruce, the 2 gal. isn't completely mixing with the 8oz..

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<


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 12:36pm
Not only is it miscible but PG is denser that water.


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 2:16pm
So if you just drained & left the plugs out, spent the saved $5 on good beer, should the beer be chilled to 35F or 45F?

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 2:34pm
Originally posted by 75 Tique 75 Tique wrote:

30 liters....yeah, that's money well spent.


Those guys on PN have alot of money though Larry

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Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 3:12pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:


Those guys on PN have alot of money though Larry


Clearly. Plus I have other priorities. For example, It costs a lot for water, soap and electricity to wash my clothes. So everyday, after I wear them, I throw them out and buy new.

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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 6:45pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:



Those guys on PN have alot of money though Larry


apparently.

Showed up in a thread about "your garages"





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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: Faceplant
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 8:48pm
Showed my sweetie the garage pictures . Have a feeling that it's " NOT going to happen ".
I tried . LOL

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Feels like I am hanging 10 but in reality - probably hanging 6.


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: January-31-2019 at 9:32pm
We built a house like that for a customer literally on Lake Dora. First floor was all boat house and deck that had similar concept but instead of a boat cradle their 34’ Tritoon was parked directly on the composite decking and the entire section of deck lowered into the water with hidden hydraulics and the boat drove off. Then upon return he pulled the boat into the slip and a remote control raised the deck out of the water and toon rested on it.

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1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-01-2019 at 9:18am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Can't imagine the residual water in a block is any more than 8 oz, which is only about 3% if you add 2 gal on top of it.

But Bruce, the 2 gal. isn't completely mixing with the 8oz..


and that would explain a popping freeze plug in a SBF many years ago before we started purging the water out. We winterized 2 boats this winter by draining and then pouring 1/2-3/4 gallon into them and letting that drain out and leaving them empty. The rest got filled with -100. after draining. I won't disclose how many gallons of -100 we bought last fall, but we would like to cut down on our consumption. We're not losing any sleep though, even if it goes down to -50. I got to think if you did your test with -100, none of the samples would have a problem.


Posted By: Smithfamily
Date Posted: February-01-2019 at 9:40am
Originally posted by Orlando76 Orlando76 wrote:

We built a house like that for a customer literally on Lake Dora. First floor was all boat house and deck that had similar concept but instead of a boat cradle their 34’ Tritoon was parked directly on the composite decking and the entire section of deck lowered into the water with hidden hydraulics and the boat drove off. Then upon return he pulled the boat into the slip and a remote control raised the deck out of the water and toon rested on it.


Which house is this Todd?

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Js


Posted By: Smithfamily
Date Posted: February-01-2019 at 9:40am
Very interesting research Pete.

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Js


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-01-2019 at 10:26am
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Can't imagine the residual water in a block is any more than 8 oz, which is only about 3% if you add 2 gal on top of it.

But Bruce, the 2 gal. isn't completely mixing with the 8oz..


and that would explain a popping freeze plug in a SBF many years ago before we started purging the water out. We winterized 2 boats this winter by draining and then pouring 1/2-3/4 gallon into them and letting that drain out and leaving them empty. The rest got filled with -100. after draining. I won't disclose how many gallons of -100 we bought last fall, but we would like to cut down on our consumption. We're not losing any sleep though, even if it goes down to -50. I got to think if you did your test with -100, none of the samples would have a problem.

Bruce,
You are one that all should follow.

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<


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-01-2019 at 10:46am
Oh geez, don’t encourage him Pete.


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: February-01-2019 at 12:15pm
I would purge twice, just to make sure you nap as well as you sleep at night.


Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: February-01-2019 at 1:44pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:



Pete

I think you meant to say "goading" not "goating"

Here's a definition of goading
"provoke or annoy (someone) so as to stimulate some action or reaction".

I not sure what you do with the goats on a cold winter night up there, but that's between you and the them

I am pretty annoying   

But anyways....... on to the antifreeze discussion



Damn KENO! You just made Diet Coke shoot out my nose. Note to self: NO DRINKING while reading KENO's posts on CCF.

JQ

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Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

Aqua skiing, ergo sum


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-01-2019 at 8:58pm
Glad to help keep your nose cleaned out Jonny


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: February-03-2019 at 4:29am
So what is the reason for filling with antifreeze rather than draining and leaving empty.
Trying to protect against rust?   Heck they rust all Summer when filled with water from the lakes.
Nice work Pete, might end up in a College somewhere.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-03-2019 at 10:01am
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

So what is the reason for filling with antifreeze rather than draining and leaving empty..

Many still do just a drain only. It was the ORIGINAL way to winterize! I've done plenty and still take care of a neighbors Chris/Hercules that just gets drained.

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<


Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: February-03-2019 at 11:20am
Hi peter. At what temps do you recommend winterizing. Unfortunately I’m in California near coast gets into low 30’s , if it rarely got into 20’s I would put heat lamp or heater in boat for the week. Your thoughts?? Thanks


Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: February-03-2019 at 12:10pm
Originally posted by 67 ski nat 67 ski nat wrote:

Hi peter. At what temps do you recommend winterizing. Unfortunately I’m in California near coast gets into low 30’s , if it rarely got into 20’s I would put heat lamp or heater in boat for the week. Your thoughts?? Thanks


Gloating vs goading vs goating.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-03-2019 at 12:49pm
Originally posted by 67 ski nat 67 ski nat wrote:

Hi peter. At what temps do you recommend winterizing. Unfortunately I’m in California near coast gets into low 30’s , if it rarely got into 20’s I would put heat lamp or heater in boat for the week. Your thoughts?? Thanks

Daryn,
It sounds like you have a technique that works. I have no fears of you having any issues or worries. Even when the temps get into the 20's, it takes several days for the engine to see the temps. The trans cooler would be the first to be susceptible. The light bulb trick you use is taking care of you.

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Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: February-03-2019 at 10:56pm
Good to know. I have hose bib that freezes once every ten years I’ll watch then thx


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-04-2019 at 6:16am
Originally posted by 67 ski nat 67 ski nat wrote:

Good to know. I have hose bib that freezes once every ten years I’ll watch then thx

Daryn,
You don't have frost proof hose bibs in California?



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Posted By: Nautiquehunter
Date Posted: February-04-2019 at 9:47am
we don't have frost proof bibs here in Georgia.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-04-2019 at 10:26am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by 67 ski nat 67 ski nat wrote:

Hi peter. At what temps do you recommend winterizing. Unfortunately I’m in California near coast gets into low 30’s , if it rarely got into 20’s I would put heat lamp or heater in boat for the week. Your thoughts?? Thanks

Daryn,
It sounds like you have a technique that works. I have no fears of you having any issues or worries. Even when the temps get into the 20's, it takes several days for the engine to see the temps. The trans cooler would be the first to be susceptible. The light bulb trick you use is taking care of you.


SkiNat

I'm glad that Pete can figure out from the info given that you'll be fine doing nothing except throwing a light bulb or electric heater in the boat if it's getting into the twenties.

From a fairly recent post it seems like maybe you keep the boat in a 10 by 17 plastic enclosure.

There are a number of people on CCF that are from your general area that could tell you what they do or don't do.

I figure when you get that unexpected cold snap with a power outage and one of the variety of natural disasters you seem to have in California thrown in, then you can scramble around in the cold and dark with a flashlight trying to figure out how to drain the engine or you can do it ahead of time and not have to worry about the engine.
Then you'll only have to worry about the outside faucet.

Those corny sayings like

"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure " "Better safe than Sorry" or the Boy Scout motto "Be Prepared" might be handy to think about.

Here's an old thread from Planet Nautique with people who do nothing and others who drain. Some of the names are/were familiar names on this site.

That heat lamp or heater may or may not be explosion proof in an enclosed area either.

https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/nautique-topics/maintenance-technical-discussion/15493-winterize-in-nor-cal" rel="nofollow - old PN thread     


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-04-2019 at 11:28am
Daryn,
Of course the "what if's" as Ken mentions can always happen. I now fear you could freeze up you complete house if your power goes out. Then if you have a generator, it too can fail. You'll end up with a house that looks something like this:



Don't worry about getting a frostproof hose bib ether.


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<


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: February-04-2019 at 11:52am
My power went out at home Wednesday at around 5am when it was in the minus twenties . Had to "winterize" the house. I did hold off on draining the hot water heater, luckily the power came back after only a few hours.


Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: February-05-2019 at 11:14am
That’s a trick hose bib never seen before. Thx


Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: February-05-2019 at 11:25am
I’m like my toys to be clean and well maintained. So probably will drain and change oil just to get old dirty stuff out. Should be ok with actual cracked block but that cooler does look venerable. Pretty easy got a little screw at bottom. Thx daryn


Posted By: oldskiboat
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 12:16pm
My Southwind has a heat exchanger in it so the block is filled with 50/50 automotive antifreeze all the time. This works for me in our area where it does not get that cold and when we were in NC it also worked fine. I do use RV palatable antifreeze in the raw water feed, Bar headers and exhaust system by running the boat and sucking in about 3 gallons of the stuff.

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Gary
The Villages Fl.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1392&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975" rel="nofollow - 75Southwind 20


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 12:22pm
Originally posted by oldskiboat oldskiboat wrote:

   I do use RV palatable antifreeze in the raw water feed, Bar headers and exhaust system by running the boat and sucking in about 3 gallons of the stuff.

Very poor advise for people that live were it gets real cold. Have fun and it's good you live in a warm area.

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Posted By: oldskiboat
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 12:32pm
Well I would hate to use the poisons automotive stuff and when using the RV type straight all I see coming out the exhaust is the antifreeze and in my case all that is being protected is the raw water intake, filter, raw water pump inside the heat exchanger, bar headers and exhaust.. What type of antifreeze would have to be used in colder areas of the 20 below temperatures?

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Gary
The Villages Fl.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1392&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975" rel="nofollow - 75Southwind 20


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 12:41pm
Originally posted by oldskiboat oldskiboat wrote:

Well I would hate to use the poisons automotive stuff and when using the RV type straight all I see coming out the exhaust is the antifreeze and in my case all that is being protected is the raw water intake, filter, raw water pump inside the heat exchanger, bar headers and exhaust.. What type of antifreeze would have to be used in colder areas of the 20 below temperatures?

What does the refractometer tell you about the antifreeze you get out of the exhaust?

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Posted By: oldskiboat
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 12:47pm
Excellent point, I'm not sure, but like I said in my area if it gets to freezing it is cold. I'm about an hour north of Orlando, FL.   So, in the case of a block with automotive antifreeze and a heat exchanger just be sure it is mixed to the correct formula for the area you live in , Correct? and then what would be done for the raw water end?

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Gary
The Villages Fl.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1392&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975" rel="nofollow - 75Southwind 20


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 12:50pm
DRAIN first and then add the antifreeze is the only way to properly winterize anything. The bottom line is the suck up method without draining is poor advice because of the potential dilution.

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Posted By: oldskiboat
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 12:52pm
Okay, thank you for your help.

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Gary
The Villages Fl.

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Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 1:02pm
Originally posted by oldskiboat oldskiboat wrote:

Excellent point, I'm not sure, but like I said in my area if it gets to freezing it is cold. I'm about an hour north of Orlando, FL.   So, in the case of a block with automotive antifreeze and a heat exchanger just be sure it is mixed to the correct formula for the area you live in , Correct? and then what would be done for the raw water end?


I don’t know why you bother winterizing. You can ski all year long!


Posted By: oldskiboat
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 1:05pm
Just in case, we do get below freezing at times. And the stuff is cheap

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Gary
The Villages Fl.

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Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 1:15pm
Wouldn’t Quick drains on any raw water be a quicker fix and you could just do it after you ski?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 1:23pm
Originally posted by oldskiboat oldskiboat wrote:

And the stuff is cheap

But a tube in shell and exhaust manifolds aren't!! They both have drains so why not drain?

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<


Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 1:26pm
Originally posted by tryathlete tryathlete wrote:

Wouldn’t Quick drains on any raw water be a quicker fix and you could just do it after you ski?


Even way up north in NC, that is all I do, as I do periodically go out for a winter ski. Takes about 3 minutes to:

Open 2 drain cocks
Pull hose off thermostat housing
Pull hose off raw water pump
Blow water out of transmission cooler via the two unhooked hoses
Done

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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: oldskiboat
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 1:32pm
Remember I'm in Florida.   The benefit of RV antifreeze is it prevents rust also. I have had the bar manifolds on it from about 96 and they are in great shape inside, just about no rust. I used the RV antifreeze in both NC and in Florida and have had no issues with the raw water components, but I also see nothing wrong with draining these. What ever is best for the boat.

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Gary
The Villages Fl.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1392&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975" rel="nofollow - 75Southwind 20


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-22-2019 at 2:13pm
Meanwhile here we are in the depths of winter and it’s 85 out. The down side is I’m going through impellers and gas. Think I’ll go winterize myself

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