83 New Stringers & Floor
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42472
Printed Date: April-25-2024 at 9:27am
Topic: 83 New Stringers & Floor
Posted By: jterr
Subject: 83 New Stringers & Floor
Date Posted: March-07-2018 at 9:23pm
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Figured I would just try a thread on my 83 project if OK with y'all Motor is OUT  |
Replies:
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-07-2018 at 9:33pm
Cut the passenger side floor partly out |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-07-2018 at 9:38pm
Tank and exhaust out
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-07-2018 at 10:30pm
Don't look good
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-07-2018 at 10:37pm
Took some Foam out in big chuncks Then this mess 
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Posted By: MechGaT
Date Posted: March-07-2018 at 11:19pm
 keep it up!------------- '92 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-07-2018 at 11:34pm
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Just a note for foam removal doubters. This boat has not been used in over a year. Every piece of foam I have removed is wet. the part next to the battery box actually had water on the floor, below the foam. I was gonna leave some cause it looked and felt dry-WRONG- it's all coming out |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-08-2018 at 9:31am
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A question--As long as I leave the stringers in can I remove all the floor? And any suggestions as how to get that carpet out, man wish I could find that glue to use today??_LOL |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-08-2018 at 10:21am
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John, You will want to remove all the flooring and the stringers down to the bare hull. Do you have the boat on the trailer? You may want to consider some extra support if hull shows any signs of flexing or "oil canning". http://www.wwhenry.com/content.aspx?id=130&View=Product&cID=93&pID=130&ProductID=84" rel="nofollow - The Henry 263 is a "pro" grade that's waterproof in 2 hours. It's harder to find than the typical Henry 663 you find at most stores. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-08-2018 at 10:33am
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[QUOTE=8122pbrainard] John, You will want to remove all the flooring and the stringers down to the bare hull. Do you have the boat on the trailer? You may want to consider some extra support if hull shows any signs of flexing or "oil canning". I was asking about floor as I read should do one side first. So can I take the complete floor out and leave stringers until I do one side and keep the hull OK??? I think I'm asking this right Boat is on trailer. Thanks for glue info. |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: March-08-2018 at 2:35pm
| Yes you can remove all of the floor, it wont hert anything. If you remove your primary stringer and secondary on one side at a time you should be ok. But if it was me I would build up a couple extra supports if you remove both primary and both secondary stringers you need to have supports on both sides of boat if you're going to leave it on the trailer |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-08-2018 at 9:20pm
| Got to the thing that looks like a footrest on drivers side. Is it necessary to take this out also?? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-08-2018 at 10:11pm
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John, The stringers (and the foam) extend forward under the kick so yes, it needs to come out too. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-08-2018 at 10:38pm
| Oh boy getting harder and harder |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-09-2018 at 1:51pm
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I read to not pull motor bracket with motor, when can I take it out ? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-09-2018 at 2:17pm
John, I'm assuming you are referring to what some people call the engine cradle. You can pull it out anytime after the engine. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
jterr wrote:Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-09-2018 at 2:20pm
Correct Thanks |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-11-2018 at 4:41pm
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Got the Pylon and Motor cradle out .. Still chopping Foam, actually found some dry foam and wood in back. Question- Should I try and save these boxes??? Tried to load a picture, biut said Upload error not enough space on disc..What disc??? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-11-2018 at 4:56pm
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What "boxes" John? If you are talking wood, I don't feel it's worth the effort to scab in new to old. Regarding the disc, the site is having problems this morning. Keith and family are probably off on a spring ski trip and can't do a reboot!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-11-2018 at 4:59pm
The 2 battery boxes in front of the pylon? 
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-12-2018 at 3:08pm
I got them out and am almost to front....Notice puddle of water with no where to go
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-13-2018 at 3:30pm
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I know I'm nowhere ready to put stringers back in. I was wondering can Oak be used as a stringer? Have alot and my neighbor just got a saw mill.... |
Posted By: rolleronariver
Date Posted: March-13-2018 at 4:53pm
I know some guys will chime in on this that know more than me but I would be concerned about the oak rotting. Douglas Fir is what I went with in mine. It really isn't that bad expensive. Some people struggle to find it but I luckily found it in our hometown very quickly. Just call around to some lumber yards. Also, make sure it's moister level is low before you fiberglass it in. ------------- 92 Sport nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-13-2018 at 5:03pm
White or red? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-13-2018 at 5:19pm
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Mostly Laurel Oak, also have some Hickory. Just curious.. Thinking about the composites also.. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-13-2018 at 5:26pm
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John, No on the Laurel Oak and a definite no to the Hickory. Both are not at all resistant to rot. Even with CPES, I'd worry about them. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-13-2018 at 11:50pm
| Yea the more I read the more I'm leaning to the composite |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-16-2018 at 10:53pm
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Update: Cleaned the mess so I could see.Next will get in and cut out the front..   |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-17-2018 at 10:16pm
| Question- What is kcel for floor replacement, might be spelled wrong?? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-18-2018 at 12:16am
Probably klegecell. If you google it, you'll get a lot of info |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-18-2018 at 12:42am
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http://m.kayco-composites.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kayco-composites.com%2Fkc_kaycel.html#2933" rel="nofollow - http://m.kayco-composites.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kayco-composites.com%2Fkc_kaycel.html#2933 At a glance, looks similar to Coosa and airex pxc. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-18-2018 at 9:15am
Then again maybe not, Sounds like Tim found the stuff you're referring to 
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-18-2018 at 3:32pm
Got it just looking at all my options. At 73 I need easy to do stuff, that bending, climbing , tripping and falling out of boats is a killer 
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-23-2018 at 6:23am
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Found another problem as I was thinking of lifting boat off trailer. The rear lift eye is just about rusted away. I can't tell what it looks like and is their a fix or just cover hole?? Anyone got a picture of what it should look like?? 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-23-2018 at 8:27am
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John, The lifting ring bracketry will need rebuilding before you do any lifting. You can do it now before the stringers if you really want to get the hull off the trailer. Have you looked at the forward ring bracket? That too is a concern especially since some of it is hidden in the glass at the stem. Why do you want to get it off the trailer now? If you want to get it lower, remove the wheels of the trailer. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-23-2018 at 10:29am
Understood. Where can you find that bracket, I saw some eyelets on line? I assume those 2 wood pieces are next to the hull at top??? |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: March-23-2018 at 11:07am
You won't find them. The angle iron piece is glassed into the transom. The lifting part is no more than a piece of all thread. 5/8-11 IIRC. Plywood is against the deck on the inside. The lift ring threads onto the all thread. As Pete said, check the front lift pieces also. They are most likely shot also. Most of the damage to them maybe under the floor and not visible. I have detailed shots of the front but not the back. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-23-2018 at 11:20am
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John, As Duane mentions, you'll need to get some angle. The threaded rod at a good hardware store, big box or on line at McMaster. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-23-2018 at 11:42am
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Front looks ok, but may replace when I start the rear. Post those pics if you would and will compare. Also you said the bracket is glassed in, but it looks as there may bolts sticking out... I'll get under there and look closer. I had a thought that if I were not going to use it for lifting could I just replace the Eye and wood and not even use the bracket. Not planning on leaving in water.. |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: March-23-2018 at 1:00pm
Fix it right. Does not take that long or that much effort. Lift rings are just that To Lift. How about the next guy that does not know that it is just ornamental??? Pics of front  ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-23-2018 at 1:01pm
John, I feel you will sooner or later regret the convenience of being able to use the lifting rings. You are doing a stringer job and will have all the supplies at hand so why not fix the eye?? Also, before you discovered the bad eye I asked:
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-23-2018 at 1:03pm
You end up with a nice hole in the aft deck and possibly someone injured!!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-23-2018 at 5:44pm
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Not being a smart ass, but if I did I would let the next guy know. But it will probably be one of my grandchildren...LOL I just decided to just fix as I have to replace the wood on the transom anyhow, what's a little more work. |
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: March-24-2018 at 1:09pm
I know I'm very late chiming in here, but for the benefit of others as well, NO, DO NOT use any type of oak. The various types of oak, walnut, pecan, ash, and so on are what is known as an 'open cell' or open grain wood. While usually very hard and dense woods, they are generally markedly heavier and the open cells of the wood will trap any moisture that can only dry out if it exposed to open air. That's pretty much the case with about any wood, but the open cells multiply the problem and accelerate the rotting process, which is why the lighter, closed cell woods generally do much better for applications like this. There are a few closed cell woods that also have a natural resistance to rot as well, some better than others. One of the best is of course redwood, followed by cedar and Doug fir to name a few. In the case of stringers though, you're looking for the sweet spot - rot resistance and strength but in as light of material as possible. While redwood is the lightest and best by far with rot, it also has the weakest grain strength of the 3, followed very closely by the cedar. The fir is actually much one of the most dense "soft" woods there is which makes it ideal because it retains high grain strength while still being a closed cell and having natural rot resistance. ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-24-2018 at 3:48pm
| I'm 75% going with Sea Cast on the stringers ; Kay-cel and Coosa board all covered with glass on floor and transom areas. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-24-2018 at 4:04pm
It looks as though the bracket/angle iron(I got it out what was left) was at top of that section. Do I need to cut the whole piece out from top to bottom?? |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: March-24-2018 at 4:40pm
I would only cut out the angle iron part. BUT if it were me, I would weld a couple of vertical straps to the new angle that would hang down several inches and screw those to the transom as well as the angle piece. Then glass the whole works to the transom as good as I could. The angle needs the hole for the all thread also The bigger the wood blocks on top the more they distribute the load also. ; ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-24-2018 at 5:12pm
Joe, I disagree with your thoughts about open grain woods especially White Oak. It is the most sought after wood for boat building and has been used for many years due to it's strength but more so its rot resistance. Resistance has nothing to do with open or closed grain. You are also forgetting the recommended CPES step!! BTW, do you know what type of wood was used to build the USS Constitution (Old Ironsides)?  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-24-2018 at 6:11pm
Roger That I'm waiting now for the rot to dry and clean that part out and then proceed. Thanks |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-24-2018 at 9:48pm
| Well I'm down to the bottom of the thick wood at top and it is all rotted. Tomorrow will drill down lower and see if any good wood left... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-24-2018 at 10:19pm
Hopefully you will be removing all the old wood! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-24-2018 at 11:16pm
| That would be the best thing to do I think..My neighbor has alot of Galvanized angle and threaded rod to make a strong metal part then use the Coosa composite and glass.. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-24-2018 at 11:17pm
| Beginning to wonder if this boat had sunk with all the rot and rust high up in the boat.... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-25-2018 at 8:13am
 John, I don't understand what you're thinking. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-25-2018 at 2:20pm
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-25-2018 at 2:21pm
| well that didn't work, I think you got it..LOL |
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: March-25-2018 at 3:35pm
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Yeah, I can tell you I'm glad that's one thing I don't have to think about. I agree Seacast is IMO the best thing you could do. Even 'Old Ironsides' will rot, eventually (with or without the CPES) ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-25-2018 at 10:52pm
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One more thing why I now think this boat has been under water. When I went to finish cutting out the section for the rear hanging eyelet, about a inch or so down I hit water. Decided to make a cut at bottom and probably got a quart of water out of that cavity. The only way for it to get in would be at the top which is tight under the top deck-Sunk.. At least I don't have to replace the outside skin, but most likely all the wood mounting places  on transom.
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-25-2018 at 11:31pm
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Typical of all older Correct Crafts with foam,does not have to have been sunk,could have happened if it was even left uncovered. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-27-2018 at 12:33pm
| Before I start cutting everything out of transom is there a easy way to check the wood areas covered in glass without just cutting them out?? |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: March-27-2018 at 12:39pm
use a small hole saw to remove part of the skin in few locations to check the shape of the wood behind, if it was dry and happy you can just patch later, but the pieces that have holes in them for things like exhaust hoses or brackets are likely compromised... but cant hurt to check. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-27-2018 at 12:55pm
Plus 1 and make sure the pilot drill on the hole saw isn't extended very far! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: March-27-2018 at 1:08pm
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cut it all out and replace including the ruder block. I made my rudder block out of coosa and ran to the back to cure the dip in the hull behind the rudder that holds water. I didn't use backer for exhaust nor the platform, simply laid some 1808 there . Bolted exhaust instead of screws. I also did run floor all the way to the back so was also able to bolt the platform instead of screws. all sealed with 5200. Lifting ring bracket got a coosa backer with glass |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-27-2018 at 9:20pm
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Oops made my first bad cut. As I was cutting out more of the floor drivers side I went into the hull, but not through. Is that repairable or a concern?? |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: March-28-2018 at 12:53am
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You didn't go though...probably not a worry. Once you start glassing you can sand a little around the cut, acetone the area, fill with thickened epoxy and throw some glass over it. Sand it smooth (if you need to) and done. ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-28-2018 at 11:03am
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I would build it out past flush with increasing sized layers. That will spread the stress out further. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-29-2018 at 3:17pm
| Results of Compression test;-118-117-112-119-120-120-118-118 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-29-2018 at 3:44pm
I'd be happy with those cold numbers, not much variation. from high to low And you didn't need to squirt any oil
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Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: March-29-2018 at 4:00pm
| Pretty good for cold numbers. Interested to see how they change when hot. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-29-2018 at 7:08pm
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Found in a old post ,but now can't find again-Hell to get old... Will these work for my 83? 
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-29-2018 at 8:51pm
| No |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-29-2018 at 9:37pm
Yea just got back from measuring..oh well |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-29-2018 at 11:48pm
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Leaning back towards the Coosa board for stringers...HELP
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Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: March-30-2018 at 11:09am
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You can template the old stringers with paper and cardboard. You mainly want hull contour. You may also want to make some cross member jigs across the gunnel and measure the height to top of the old stringers where the engine sits and the deck. Some adjustments may need to be made if you use coosa for the deck as I did, , the top of the stringers will have to be lowered to to allow the deck to be the same height when installed. Making the stringers an exact match is not that critical. The engine mounts are adjustable so if you are off some then so what. Engine cradle will only mount one way with ski pylon installed. Fits into the mount in the floor. Top of stringer is basically notched to allow for thickness of the cradle. Calculate the amount of glass that will wrapped over the top of the stringer. Recommend 2 layers of 1808 which will be 3/16 or so with resin. You can also lay up some chop strand mat on the old stringers to make a temporary repair so that when you cut them out they will not fall apart thereby making a template, wish I would have done this. Also I did not block the hull when I took them out which was a mistake. I do recommend taking them out and replacing one at a time to help hull maintain form. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-30-2018 at 11:49am
Great info Thanks |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-30-2018 at 3:43pm
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When using the Coosa board would it be better to buy it in 1/2" and then bond together for the main sringer? Also I guess it only come in 4x8 sheets, so how to connect to make it 12" long?? |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: March-30-2018 at 3:56pm
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3/4 coosa Blue water series for stringers. its pricy. you sandwich it together with chop strand mat in between. stager the joints. outside stringers are one piece and simply join together with mat material. you can use half inch on floor and lay up 1708 on top. I used 3/4 on the floor. Again a little over kill. Going to take 4 sheets to do the job, stuff is pricy unless you have a source. I was fortunate to have a friend at CC factory that could sell to me what he paid for it. You are going to need 30 feet of 1808 and about 30 feet of 1708 glass, 48" wide I think. I used 25 gallons of ame 6000 resin, again I went overboard. Likely 20 gallons would have been sufficient. Guys here have used less material than I did and had a very good result and also made boat slightly lighter, I made my heavier by 100 lbs or so at least I think. One day ill weight it |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-03-2018 at 12:07pm
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Question on the rear transom hanger. It looked as if were 2 pieces of plywood where the angle was attached. Should I just glue the 2 pieces together then glass over or use glass between? Also should there be glass between hull and pywood .. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-03-2018 at 12:26pm
John, I'd suggest a mat between the wood and the glass. This will fill any irregularities/gaps between the two. Also between layers of wood, I'd suggest a layer of glass and resin. Besides it bonding the wood together, it will add strength. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-03-2018 at 12:27pm
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You are just making the hull thicker by adding more glass behind right? The plywood holds the fasteners the glass holds the plywood. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: April-03-2018 at 12:32pm
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Transom is curved, you need to shape the backer to the curve of the hull the best you can. use chop strand to assist bonding it to hull and reduce or eliminate any air gaps bevel the face edges to the hull so that when you lay the sheet of bi ax to it and overlap to the hull it will also not have any air gaps. Not sure why you need double plank as a backer for the bracket though it could be to help center the hole in the bracket with the lifting ring. May need some adjustment as you go such as putting shim behind the angle bracket to help align it. Get some pvc board from home depot to make shims with etc. easy to grind down. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: April-03-2018 at 12:41pm
 I added glass to the center to even out the transom then put the coosa backer. I also made the rudder backer plat all the way to the transom to eliminate the pocket were water use to sit. I did lay up 1808 over bother backers and tied them together which I admit was way over kill and added lbs to the thing. I did however do a considerable amount of grinding before I put the stuff in place and did remove original layup glass so I did replace what I took away but did it quite overkill. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: April-03-2018 at 12:45pm
| Sorry I don't have any photos of the final product but what is can remember is that I laid up double sheets over both backers and lapped them over each other and I believe I overlapped the sides of the lifting plat backer 10" each side with on sheet and 6 with second one. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-03-2018 at 12:48pm
This just showing the wood was rotted from top to bottom.
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-03-2018 at 9:44pm
So I don't have to go to the floor on the lift bracket, and if I need to do rudder part how do you repair that? I doubt I will be able to afford all that Coosa, what is down there-Plywood?? |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 10:39am
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Any thoughts on this idea.. Want to take boat off trailer: 1- Would be a hellava lot lower 2- Do trailer work while it was out or not being able to do boat work Would use 2 scissor jacks on the rear corners, could control the level and 1 jack at the front eyelet where you hook trailer. Yea or Nay any ideas ,suggestions |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 10:49am
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Not as simple as it sounds. 1 Block up the back very solidly (after it is raised) as it will tend to move around some. 2 Jack it up under the keel board and move trailer forward till the crossmember contacts the jack. Then use another jack to re-support the keel as far forward as you can and then remove the first keel jack and move trailer forward. Kinda of a leap frog type deal Repeat 2 till you are clear Be very careful as it is heavy and dangerous ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 10:51am
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It is not hard to get off trailer. I lowered tongue to floor, then placed concrete blocks (holes up) with 2x4 & carpet pads at stern corners. Then raise bow as much as you can, I used floor jack to get extra high. Then you can support keel with blocks, stand or jack. Level trailer, then boat weight will be off trailer. You will need to move keel support several times. Just have redundant support & you will be fine. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 11:18am
Taking it off the trailer is a pretty good idea generally if for no other reason than the trailer supports the boat under the stringers and when there are no stringers that is a lousy place to support a boat. Putting it lower to the ground is a laudable goal but adds a few steps on the removal and when you put it back on. I have used the method above many many times, if you have concrete under the boat and a decent cherry picker (rolling engine lift) then you can do this in a couple minutes. Tongue to the ground cyinder blocks topped with 4x4s under under the stern, then use the cherry picker to lift the front of the boat by the lifting ring. At that point you can pull the trailer out by hand as far as possible till the wheel gets to the legs of the picker. Plop some blocks down to support the keel just in front of the fins while you lower the picker and replace it behind the wheels. lift the boat with the picker by the front ring again and walk the trailer the rest of the way out. Replace the front blocks and you are good to go. You can then use the picker to alternately lift the back and front rings and take out blocks as required to get a height you desire. Whatever you do I prefer to pull the trailer out by hand as you can pretty easily with a truck not notice that you are pulling the boat off the blocks. AS ALWAYS - Try not to Die - or wreck your gelcote... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 11:29am
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I've done the blocks thing with floor jacks or 1 engine lift at the bow. Now I have 2 engine lifts. Much, much safer. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 11:36am
| Thanks for the input. Think I better fix the rear lift ring before in case I need it.. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 12:04pm
| Yes, block it. I found out the hull does change shape when you pull the stringers, even pulling them one at a time. My boat rides even with driver only now as a result. it does pitch left with a spotter. Weight distribution in mine is now opposite of what it was new. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 12:11pm
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John, The benefit of leaving it on the trailer is the wishbone design of the trailer bunks is a great method of supporting a stringer less hull. Take the wheels off the trailer and see if that will lower the hull enough for you. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 12:18pm
I call BS on this one - mustang probably, 2gen SN maybe - 2001 hull too flat, too much distance to the hull sides and not super duper thick hull. If you were going to leave it on the trailer while replacing stringers I would block the stern/sides and keel towards the front at a minimum. The wishbone trailer design is great as a trailer for a boat with stringers and with the weight of the drivetrain on the stringers but a flat bottom boat without stringers not so much. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 1:15pm
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What did Correct Craft set the bare hull on while the boat was built? ------------- 1994 Ski Nautique "Riot" 1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun" 'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!" |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 1:36pm
You typically would not take the hull out of the mold until after the stringers are mounted ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 2:47pm
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Boy Howdy , Maybe better find someone that knows what to do with this, as I get more confused on the plan as I go..... |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 3:10pm
I get that. My question remains. ------------- 1994 Ski Nautique "Riot" 1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun" 'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!" |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 3:33pm
| CC left hulls in the mold until they laid up the stringers. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-04-2018 at 4:44pm
| And then they went wishbone dollies |