Print Page | Close Window

1990 Ski Nautique Overheating

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41074
Printed Date: May-03-2024 at 9:36pm


Topic: 1990 Ski Nautique Overheating
Posted By: Greektique
Subject: 1990 Ski Nautique Overheating
Date Posted: May-15-2017 at 10:50pm
I am new to Nautique. I previously owned a Mastercraft with similar engine,, but I was lucky and never had any issues with it from date I'd purchase to resale.
I placed boat in water and left on trailer to check it out. The engine began overheating immediately. Turned off took to hose and connected to intake hose to cool motor. Nothing happened. Shut down motor and drive it home to let cool. I ordered a new raw water pump impeller and installed per instructions. Connect water hose to outlet hose of strainer because I could not get intake hose off again. The boat ran great and maintained 153 degrees. I reconnect system and took to lake. Put in water and noticed it. Engine to go passed 153 degrees. I shut it down and inspected and found the strainer empty so is was not pulling water. I'm lost at this point. Please help



Replies:
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 12:00am
Check all hose clamps before the raw water pump,tighten them with a nutdriver not a screwdriver. Then remove the strainer bowel and check to make sure there is a gasket between it and the strainer assembly. Make sure raw water pump is on correctly since it can be mounted either way and one of the ways won't pump

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 12:09am
How do I know if water pump is installed correctly. According to instructions the screw on the side of the pump should face motor. It does. Does it matter how the impeller is installed. I installed it per directions but the fins have a slight bend to them. Could I have installed impeller incorrectly if so how do I determine the correct orientation?


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 12:19am
You have the pump correct then. Might just want to put a new impeller in on a new to you boat,use a genuine Sherwood impeller #9959 for a G-21 pump. http://www.sherwoodpumps.com/FileAttachments/Marine-Distribution/en-us/MPG_3047_09959_TECH.pdf" rel="nofollow - Here is the assembly pdf for those pumps

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 12:27am
thank you for the quick reply. I installed a new sherwood impeller after the first outing when it first showed signs of over heating. Installed and connected hose to outlet hose of strainer. Boat cooled and when I rev'd engine in neutral, the water pulled faster than the hose could supply so I set to idle: at idle temperature gauge held to about 153 degrees.
based on that can I assume intake pump is good and that there might be problem prior to outlet of strainer. Can I take strainer out and just put in a temporary hose fitting to eliminate the strainer as a potential problem.


Posted By: velde99
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 12:37am
Check impeller is installed properly. Check for any clogged hoses, and then I'd check the thermostat. If Iran not opening all the way- engine may over heat?


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 12:44am
Are there any pics of impeller installed correctly I have a pic of how I installed that I can compare to.


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 12:48am
Just hooked hose up to intake.
Started engine and then turned on hose The water is flowing through the engine and it is heating up. It is controlling at about 155 degrees. The risers and manifold outlets are cool and water is coming out of the exhaust I rev the engine and I can see the water hose start to collapse and I return to idle so as not to starve the pump of water is there anything I should look for while doing this that will tell me what the problem is when in the lake



Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 12:49am
Yes you can eliminate the strainer and test in the driveway to see if that's your culprit. I wouldn't put it in the lake without it though.

Run the boat in the driveway by filling a 5 gallon bucket full of water and stick the intake hose in it. You'll have to keep the garden hose running in it to keep it full. Once you get your overheating issue resolved you can install a Timmy T.

-------------
1989 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 12:55am
Ok thanks everyone. I just started following the hoses and found that the transmission cooler has a small leak on the bottom side of the cooler near the hose connection. Water is spraying out a fine mist. I had my girlfriend rev the engine and the leak stopped I think I found the problem Correct me if Im wrong but a leak that disappears when I rev engine means that the raw water pump is pulling more water and thus reduces the water available to leak pout and would allow for air leak into the system at the lake thus breaking the suction. Does that sound right?


Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 12:57am
The cooler itself is leaking or the hose connection?

-------------
1989 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 1:04am
The cooler itself the hose connect to the cylindrical end, and then the cylindrical end forms a cone the attaches to the body of the cooler. There is a seam there and a similar seam at the top The bottom seam is leaking, I checked transmission, no water in tranny. No Tranny oil in water either. so it looks like I need a new tranny oil cooler or can I braze that seam and seal it?


Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 1:07am
If it were me I would just get a new cooler. They are a fairly inexpensive part...Nautiqueparts.com or SkiDim has them.

-------------
1989 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 1:08am
Originally posted by Greektique Greektique wrote:

and would allow for air leak into the system at the lake thus breaking the suction. Does that sound right?


Yes much like trying to drink thru a straw with a hole in the side of it. Impellers can go in any way,if the vanes are backward to the rotation they will quickly flip over with no harm done.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 1:09am
Thanks, Just ordered from SkiDim. What is a Timmy T?


Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 1:13am
Go to google and type in "Timmy T correctcraftfan"

It's basically a homemade hose adapter you can plumb into your cooling system to easily run your boat out of water. Pretty handy and costs about $12 to make.

-------------
1989 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 1:14am
Check http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35646&title=advice-for-reviving-a-87-sn-2001-after-10yrs" rel="nofollow - here about 5 posts down---

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 1:25am
I will install new tranny cooler and get back to this thread with results.
Can anyone verify which tranny cooler I need for a 1990 Ski Nautique.


Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 1:46am
I believe you need PCM # R147003, the 5" one, but someone else will confirm... or call Vince or Richard at SkiDim in the morning.

-------------
1989 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 1:56am
Originally posted by Greektique Greektique wrote:

... I rev the engine and I can see the water hose start to collapse and I return to idle so as not to starve the pump of water is there anything I should look for while doing this that will tell me what the problem is when in the lake.



Your raw water hose is starting to collapse? The hose from the water intake should be a wire reinforced water hose. The purpose of the wire reinforcement is to prevent hose collapse.

Hose collapse and air leaks are a good recipe for over-heating.

JQ

-------------
Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

Aqua skiing, ergo sum


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 3:29am
water hose = garden hose?


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 8:04am
Originally posted by Greektique Greektique wrote:

The bottom seam is leaking,so it looks like I need a new tranny oil cooler


If you decide to pitch it, then pitch it my way. I will pay shipping charges.     Duane

-------------
Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 11:51pm
Sorry, the garden hose was what was collapsing. The intake hose was fine.


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 11:53pm
I had a friend braze the seal. He is bringing it by so I can have as a spare if it holds. If i change my mind you can have it.


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-16-2017 at 11:58pm
I also had a friend that gave me an oil cooler from his mastercraft PCM with a powerslot transmission. Its longer, and thinner than mine but it has the same fittings. Can I use it so I can take the boat out sooner. not tags on either tootle me about pressure or cooling capacity.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-17-2017 at 7:13am
Originally posted by Greektique Greektique wrote:

I had a friend braze the seal. He is bringing it by so I can have as a spare if it holds. If i change my mind you can have it.

I suggest pressure testing before you install it on the engine. The typical failure is from freeze damage from improper winterizing. Even though it's the outer shell that seems to split first, you what to make sure the inner tubes that circulate the ATF are good. so you don't end up with water in the trans.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-17-2017 at 8:59am
Great point about pressure test


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-21-2017 at 11:10pm
New oil cooler on. New RWP impeller installed All hose clamps tightened and Strainer seal   done. It still does not suck water up from the bucket. Any ideas? on what I can Check Can back pressure come from thermostat not opening. I have not replaced thermostat, but plan to tomorrow. Intake is open and clear. All hoses are open and clear. .


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-22-2017 at 12:25am
No back pressure since all extra water goes out thru the exhausts,thermostat only lets water out of the block.. What I'd try before I'd take anything else apart would be to remove the hose that the red arrow points to, put it in another bucket . Connect and fill your bucket connected to your intake hose,start the engine and see if the raw water pump is pumping. Don't run it long, just enough to see if its pumping and report back.



-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-27-2017 at 11:58pm
Does the hose from the intake have to go under the tranny to the strainer or can it go over the tranny to the strainer. It seems to be a mute point because the pressure wold not change, but i want to make sure


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-28-2017 at 12:00am
does the intake hose have to go under the tranny on its way to the strainer or can i take it over the tranny to the strainer and then to the transmission oil cooler.
'


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-28-2017 at 6:50am
Thrace,
The hose route doesn't matter.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 12:19am
I have a PCM 351. I have a sherwood raw water pump. I looked at a previous post it said the cam screw on the side of the pump should face the engine. Then today I found a post the had a sketch that showed the cam screw on the outside for a RR351, and The screw on the inside for a LH(GT-40) How should I have the pump installed?


Posted By: Greektique
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 12:24am
It is a 1990 Ski Nautique I am not certain how to state the rotation


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-29-2017 at 3:00am
Being a 1990 you probably have a LH rotation engine and a RH prop due to your transmission being a PCM 1:23 to 1

Looking at your transmission fluid thread, it doesn't say for sure what you have but the 1.23 to 1 is pretty likely.

If that's the case then you look at the picture at the LH drawing and the screw head will be facing in.

Keep in mind, If you have it installed backwards, it won't move any water

To verify your ENGINE rotation you could look and see which way the pulleys are turning.

Looking at the pulleys from the front of the engine they will turn CLOCKWISE for NORMAL rotation

If it's reverse rotation they'll turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE.

There are other ways too, but this works and is easy to look at with the engine running.

Based on what you've posted earlier in this thread, it sounds like you have it installed correctly.




Print Page | Close Window