Very Hot blooded Python, overheating 210
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39705
Printed Date: April-27-2024 at 6:54pm
Topic: Very Hot blooded Python, overheating 210
Posted By: alalor1
Subject: Very Hot blooded Python, overheating 210
Date Posted: August-17-2016 at 2:05pm
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Hello, I'm writing to see if anybody here can have some idea of what's going on with my engine. 1999 Super Air Nautique 210 with the 8.2L 502 Python engine stock, no mods, ran fine for the 3 years I owned it until now. The steering cable broke, and to replace it, I disconnected the hose that goes from the transmission cooler ot the raw water pump, so the suction side. After I put the new cable in, I forgot to connect this hose. When I took the boat to the lake, it overheated, of course, it ran about 4 minutes before we realized and stopped it. I put a new impeller in since I always carry a spare and connected the hose. Ran it and saw a lot of water coming out of the circulation pump. So we took the boat out of the water. I changed the gasket on the rear plate of the circulation pump because it looked like it had failed. I also took out some impeller pieces that had made it to the pump, though the majority seemed to be in the V-drive cooler, which I cleaned too. Ran the boat at home with a garden hose, no problem, took it to the lake, and the circulation pump was still leaking and the engine overheating. Back home, installed new circulation pump. Back to the lake and a few minutes later, overheating again. Hose from the circulation pump to the thermostat developed a leak. Hose not in stock anywhere, found that Marine Parts Guys had more leverage than I did with PCM and had them make a hose for me. Very dissapointed with PCM, I had 8 PCM engines over many years, first time they let me down. Put a new thermostat since I was at it. Go to the lake, idling fine, temp came to normal, start pulling, overheating again. Just to test, I took out the thermostat to see what happend, nothing changed. Overheating again. I started disconnecting hoses and testing, raw water pump pumps water; circulation pump seems to run well, both pumps are new. New J hose, I can't find any clogging anywhere. I am really confused as to what could be making my engine overheat, I came up with these options: -Broken impleller blade bocking some very important passage I don't know, anybody knows if there is one that could cause this? -Blown head gasket that lets compression escape to the water jacket but no water goes into the oil, big enough to do this but small enough not to be detected by a compression test, is this possible? -Spirit of dead wakeboarder jealous that we can still wakeboard interfering with my engine. -Most likely, something else that could cause this and I didn't notice. Any ideas are welcome. Thank you for your time reading this. ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Replies:
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: August-17-2016 at 3:06pm
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Overtightened clamp on the transmission cooler collapsed the end of the cooler causing an air leak? Most likely an air leak on the suction side somewhere, not a head gasket leak if you cant detect it with a compression test. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 1:04pm
I've been chasing a similar overheating issue on my '89 Ski. I finally gave in and took it to the dealer and they diagnosed it as a blown head gasket. No water in the oil and the compression is good. They said exactly what you said above "small enough not to be detected by a compression test, but enough exhaust gasses escaping causing it to run hot"...So according to my mechanic, yes it is possible, but some on this forum are skeptical of the diagnosis. They used a fluid block tester and plumbed a "T" into the hose between the exhaust manifold and tstat housing...Fluid changed color indicating exhaust gas in cooling system. I talked to Vince at Discount Inboard Marine and a rep at PCM and they both told me it is possible. I plan on doing some more diag on it before tearing it down, but the more I've researched the issue it seems more and more likely that it is indeed a bad head gasket. ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
alalor1 wrote:Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 1:22pm
what marine cooling system can hold 100+ psi? If you had a blown head gasket how would you not have sucked water into the cylinder by now? I'm just not buying that theory. I would be taking apart the exhaust manifolds and hoses looking for blockages. |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 3:19pm
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I can imagine that possible, the pressure inside the combustion chamber is really high, the water pressure inside the engine block is very low, usually below 10 psi, so it is a lot more probable for compression to go into the cooling system than water going into the cylinder. If a very small amount of water went into the cylinder during the intake stroke, it could be evaporated before it mixed with the oil, so it would be very difficult to detect. I still think my engine's problem is a blocked cooling passage I can't find. But I'm usually wrong. ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 3:26pm
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Do you get " steam" from the breather tubes/valve covers? ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 3:48pm
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Lots of things are possible, exhaust escaping out of a headgasket through an opening that is not detectable with a compression test making a boat overheat… is just not very darn likely. Stuff downstream from your melted impellor is more likely but more often seen as causing local overheating not system wide, a suction side leak is most likely. People overtighten transcoolers all the time, this boat just had the hose off the transcooler… ipso facto check the transmission cooler (and strainer) firstly and completely before doing the hard stuff. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 3:52pm
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yes, suction side inspection as joe already said is expected exactly what is your driveway running setup? |
Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 4:13pm
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Here is my question- and sorry to hijack the thread. From what I understand exhaust and water mix at the riser elbow, so if exhaust gasses are detected in the cooling system before they mix, wouldn't this indicate a bad head gasket? ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 4:23pm
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Perhaps you could explain exactly how a compromised head gasket could allow exhaust gas to enter the cooling system (that should be easy) without water entering the cylinder, either when the piston travels down -drawing a vacuum- (this will be trickier) or when the engine is off, in which case water will pool up around the piston and eventually drain past the rings (this will be harder). I don't quite see it either. Blockage or air leak seem much more plausible. But, i might be inclined to do a bucket test on the RWP too. Be aware that impeller pieces can and will travel backwards in the cooling system- so check the path all the way from the hull pick up. Also a dumb question- the new impeller is a quality part from the oem (jabsco/sherwood) or PCM, and not a Sierra or off brand, right? |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 4:29pm
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pressurized cooling system + intake stroke = water in cylinder evaporate schmevaporate. there is nowhere for this water to go once in the chamber regardless of it's phase. give it up already or pull the head and prove us all wrong. this would be the first documented case of such a condition |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 5:33pm
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Hello. Thank you for all your ideas. I will block the raw water intake hose right by the water pick up and pressurize it with my garden hose and that will show me if I have any vacuum leaks in the intake, I am hoping that is the case as many suggested. By the way, when I run the engine, I get plenty of hot water on both exhausts, so some water is getting all the way to the exhaust as it should, and the engine seems to maintain temperature well at idle, it starts overheating after it starts pulling. ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 5:52pm
Alejandro, This may or may not work. Pressure VS. a vacuum may have a different effect on hose connections. Also, water may not pass through a void as easily as air? Give it a try and report back. As suggested, I too recommend the bucket test. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 6:24pm
This is in the words of Yogi Berra kinda like deja vu all over again http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39615&PN=1&title=cooling-issue-blown-head-gasket" rel="nofollow - BB12's thread So BB12 haven't seen any additions to your thread, whats happening with your issue? Sounds like you're still on the head gasket bandwagon. That would be a pretty uncrowded wagon. |
Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 7:18pm
Haha I don't want to be on the head gasket bandwagon! I hope like hell its not a blown head gasket!! I haven't had a chance to mess with the boat yet...obligations, kids and work are getting in the way!! Hopefully this weekend I can pull it out and tinker. First test will be bucket test running straight from RWP to bucket. I wish I could find a known good RWP to test with. ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 7:39pm
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Tickets for that bandwagon are expensive too. I think I'd make the second test no thermostat at all out on the water running the boat normally. It won't be worse, might be better, but whatever the results are, it'll give you a data point to compare to your original numbers. It might run cool, like 120 or so but you won't hurt anything especially short term for testing. Oh and by the way, get back into your own thread with whatever stuff you do  KenO |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 10:08pm
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Hello, I tried with no thermostat, and it overheated too, but I will try it again anyway. Today's test I blocked the hose from the strainer to the intake and put water in the T I have right after the strainer for the garden hose, I could not find any leak, but I had water coming out the hose from the raw water pump to the thermostat housing, meaning the raw water pump was letting some water through. I took out the raw water pump cover, and the impeller seemed to be OK, all vanes there, bending the right way. I tried to take it out to inspect it better, but no luck with screw driver o with needle nose pliers (leatherman). Any tips for this? I will run water on different hoses individually to test them tomorrow when I have more water appropriate clothes. So, that's the progress so far. ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 10:17pm
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I forgot to answer Hollywood's question. Right after the strainer, I added a threaded elbow and a threaded T of the same size of the hose adapter (I think it was 1.5" but could be 1", what ever was there I respected it) and to the T, I put a reducer and a garden hose adapter with a ball valve, so I can connect the hose and open the ball valve to run the engine on the driveway, or I can close the ball valve to run the engine on the lake. When the ball valve is closed, I can't see any water coming through, so I guess there are no leaks there, but I could be wrong again. ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 10:47pm
The pressure from the garden hose will give you false results. Run the bucket test. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: August-18-2016 at 11:22pm
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THank you. I will run a bucket test. Should I also try to put a clear hose on the hose going into the thermostat housing and look for bubbles? ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: August-19-2016 at 12:56am
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That ball valve hose hook up...do you block the intake on the bottom of the boat? ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: scootdogydog
Date Posted: August-19-2016 at 9:26am
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I'd work on changing that impeller. You want to get a Sherwood 10615K. Did you put that model in it? I'm not sure how well this would work, but I'd also attempt an infrared thermometer at the crank driven RWP to see if that is heating up beyond idle ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=7183" rel="nofollow - 1999 Python 1980 Ski Tique 1968 Mustang WIP |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: August-19-2016 at 10:03am
Before or after you started having problems. Working at idle but not at higher speeds is classic to air leak, or restricted strainer on the suction side of the pump. I would remove it or at least cap it to make sure it isn't allowing air back through it... no pressure there so you wouldn't see a leak.. This thread needs pictures... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-19-2016 at 10:11am
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Air leak between pick up and RWP has always reared its head at idle (not on the hose though) but masked at higher speed, in my experience. Overheats at speed would indicate an obstruction or a RWP/impeller issue. Still, joes recommendation is a good one- look closely at all components that changed around the time you started having issues. You seem to be missing some key advice and are not answering some key questions. I would recommend reading this entire thread from the beginning and addressing all questions/concerns. I would bet that someone has already started pulling on the right string... |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-19-2016 at 11:00am
| And I'm not quite following what procedures you have done and are planning on following. |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: August-19-2016 at 9:19pm
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Hello I am checking every posting everybody made. I really appreciate everybody's input. I was skeptical on the vacuum side, I can see it being a problem at low rpm, but my engine overheats while pulling a wakeboarder, around 2500 rpm. But I respect everybody's opinion and I took apart every connection of the water intake, checked it and put it back. I am planning on putting a clear hose right before the thermostat housing so I can see if there are any bubbles, I think that should be a good test and shows I'm paying attention to everybody's input. So, what I've done in the order I did it: -New impeller from Buxton Marine -New Circulation pump -tested without thermostat -New J hose (circulation pump to thermostat housing) -Compression test: 135 psi on all cylinders except cylinder 3 (as per GM numbering) that had 155, Should have repeated this cylinder. -Pressurized water intake and looked for leaks -connected the water intake to a bucket, sucked all the water from the bucket in a few minutes with no issues. Today: -Ran water on circuit from raw water pump to thermostat (through v-drive cooler) , passed, no obstructions -Ran water on hoses from thermostat housing to exhaust manifolds, passed, no obstructions or back pressure (started the engine right after to clear any water that could have gone the wrong way due to lack of engine flow during the test) -Ran water from top of block to end of j-hose , no problem. Tried it backwards, same thing, no noticeable obstructions. I'm going to take the boat out tomorrow and test it with the clear hose if I can find a spring to keep it from collapsing or kinking. Maybe one of these things I did magically fixed it. It never overheated in my driveway. I'll keep everybody posted. If there's anything I forgot, and should have done, please let me know, I think I paid attention to everything everybody wrote. ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-19-2016 at 10:20pm
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Take some pics of everything while you're out there. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-19-2016 at 10:42pm
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-19-2016 at 10:52pm
How long is a "few" minutes? At idle, the RWP should drain the bucket in about a minute at most. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: August-19-2016 at 11:27pm
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Thank you How do I attach pictures? I did not time how long it took to empty the bucket. ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-20-2016 at 12:45pm
| Where you are putting the clear hose is the pressure side, it won't collapse. |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: August-20-2016 at 4:25pm
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Well, I could not find a spring to put inside the clear hose to prevent collapse. I tested for 15 minutes on the back yard, making sure there was water coming out the water intake, and when I reved up, less water came out, so it was sucking more. I noticed that the starboard exhaust put out more water than the port at idle, but it seemed to even out at 1300 rpm. But temperature stayed normal. So I went to the lake as is, without the clear hose. Ran 10 minutes at the dock, no issue, temp gauge got to 165 and stayed there. So I left the dock and went to wakeboarding speeds with the RideSteady (cruise control) at 21..5 my usual speed, no problem, I ventured further and further, still no issues. EVery time I brought it to idle and checked the temperatures with the laser thermometer, the port side of the engine ran hotter. Like the manifold was like 15 to 25 degrees C hotter depending on the section I tested and the rpm it had been running on. I tested manifold, riser, elbow and close to the end by the hose. Then I made a long run at 3000 rpm, like before, it was almost steady at 165. So, it looks like problem fixed, the cause of the problem is still unknown. And I will still check the port exhaust, maybe the starboard too. One of those ancient boat mysteries??? ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-20-2016 at 4:43pm
Well thats good news,it might have been a loose connection on the suction side. Think of a drink straw that gets a kink in it and starts sucking air,you have trouble drinking thru it since it's pulling air and drink. It seems that many have one side that runs a litter warmer than the other,I just put all new exhausts on a 302 PCM and one side has more water coming out. One word of caution though ,don't use the word Python and my usual speed of 21.5  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-20-2016 at 5:20pm
| Not sure what thermostat housing you have but some don't distribute as evenly |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: August-20-2016 at 6:24pm
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Holywood, I don't know how to attach pictures, but it is a much bigger thermostat housing than any of the 351w I had, looks kind of the one my fresh water cooled 351w had. I am going to take out the plug on the other side of the port manifold and flush it again, maybe if there's something blocking, ti will flush it out. I think there was some kind of blockage somehwere and when I took out all the hoses at the thermostat housing and flushed them, i cleared the blockage, I am hoping it's that anyway and not something else that will come haunt me back soon. I guess I could disconnect the two hoses that take water the the exhaust manifold and run the engine for a little bit and see if there is a difference in water volume to each side. Funny thing was that the valve cover was also a little warmer, but only like 5°C. ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: August-20-2016 at 6:30pm
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Gary, thank you, not sure what it was, maybe I will never find out. Can you please explain the reason for the caution and the usual speed? English is not my first language, I think there's something I'm not getting. By the way, if any of your northerners who helped me feel withdrawls this winter, I will be very happy to give you some pulls here, lakes don't freeze in sunny Texas, we ride year round, and with the 8.2L (I'm avoiding using the engine's nickname as per above recommendation), I would have no problem pulling any of those few left slalom skiers either. ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-20-2016 at 6:35pm
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It's great it's running even though the exact cause wasn't determined. I too have a feeling there was an air leak on the suction side of the RWP. They are easily overlooked. Yes, I also agree that some engines run hotter on one side. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-20-2016 at 6:37pm
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Alejandro, Gary's statement on speed wasn't a caution at all. He was just joking with you regarding running a Python at such a low speed since it's certainly capable of lots more speed!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-20-2016 at 8:04pm
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What Pete said. I was just joking with you,here you are with the largest production engine in a Ski Nautique going 21 mph. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: August-20-2016 at 8:49pm
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Well, I was happy with the 351w powered nautiques, actually, until then, all inboard boats I had in the past had had that engine. But I was boatless and found this deal and decided to try this monster, and on a day to day basis, you can't tell the difference because I put a big prop as soon as I bought it, so it turns at 2400 rpm at the said speed, saving lots of gas. Also, I don't know how many of you have had crashes at higher speeds, they hurt a lot more!!! I broke my ribs twice, in 4 weeks, behind a martinique at 23 mph ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: s_kelley2000
Date Posted: August-24-2016 at 11:27am
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The port side of my Python Super Sport runs hotter as well. It has been like this for the 5 years I have owned it so as others have said I suspect this is normal. What are you running for a prop? ------------- 1999 Python Super Sport |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-24-2016 at 11:44am
| Port side on a v-drive is starboard on a d-drive and hotter [v-d] port manifold is consistent with what I've seen on some thermostat housings. The raw water comes around up near cylinder #1 and diverts to that side exhaust without sufficient mixing depending on the housing. Some housings are better than others. I actually melted through one exhaust feed hose it was so bad but now I've got each side within 2 degrees. |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: August-25-2016 at 5:19pm
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Hello The port exhaust runs a lot hotter, i was wondering if it would help using the two plugs on the back of the exhaust manifolds (that is towards the bow of the boat) and putting a hose there connecting both, that would even out the water between both sides. I still see like a 20 degree C (about 36F) difference between them. Other than that, yesterday we wakeboarded for 3 hours and it ran good, at idle the temperature is about 162F according the gauge, and goes up quickly to around 175F when revved up, but just stays there, doesn't overheat any more. I don't remember it doing that before, but I didn't pay too much attention, it just ran well. ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-25-2016 at 5:24pm
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It shouldn't raise in temperature with RPM. It should actually do the opposite, more RPM = more cold water = lower temperature. You still have a problem (thanks tim, need coffee). I don't think connecting them will do much, it's more dependent on the water into the manifolds not out. The colder one will never warm up if it keeps getting fed cold water. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-25-2016 at 5:27pm
| Blockage not air leak. |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: October-25-2016 at 1:40pm
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Hello I want to give an update to all those who helped me when I was having the overheating problem. The good side is the boat is running. The bad side is that it still running the same way, even not that the lake temperature has gone down from 90°F to 76°, start it, takes a while to warm up, longer than before, temperature settles at 165°, then when we start pulling, it goes up to 175° in less than a minute, and when the rider falls and we go back to idle, engine water temperature goes down to 165° again. The behaviour has been very consistent, now that the water is slightly cooler, I can see some steam coming out of the exhaust flappers when I'm riding, but I used to see some before too, so I don't think I should worry too much (or should I?). We must remember this boat doesn't have muffler like the small bock engine boats, there's no room for it. ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-25-2016 at 3:23pm
The 10 degree temp rise is normal under load. I wouldn't worry about it. Water temps really don't make much difference. There are so many pounds of water running through the engine there's more than enough available cooling no matter what the actual water temp is. Remember, the specific heat of water is 1 Btu/lb-F, or one Btu per pound per degree Fahrenheit. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-25-2016 at 3:34pm
| So you're only instrument has been the gauge on the dash? You might not be actually hot at all. |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: October-25-2016 at 3:35pm
| +1^^^ |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: October-25-2016 at 3:52pm
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When I run my 383 stroker at 5100rpms my temp gauge goes up but it has no numbers so I don't worry ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: TRIP
Date Posted: October-27-2016 at 2:19pm
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I just want to see pics of the boat! Alejandro, make sure to hit "post reply", and not type under the thread in "Quick reply". From there you can post pics. ------------- http://www.flyzone-cr.com" rel="nofollow - FlyZone Costa Rica Wakeboarding http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=8406&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1997 Super Sport |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: October-27-2016 at 2:54pm
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Thank you for your messages and help to all of you (or to y'all as we say in Texas) Here are some pictures of the boat that some requested.       ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: October-27-2016 at 3:02pm
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Notes on the pictures. They are on Lake Bryan, The picture of us working on the engine is of one of the days it overheated. Many seats and backrests need new upholstery, it will be done this winter. That weird thing on the dash is a Hydrophase RideSteady, it is an alternative to other speed controllers, I like it more, the stepper motor works more smoothly, the throttle linkage is more reliable, the programing and speed change easier and the customer service is excellent. The dividers for the storage lockers (over the ballast tanks) and the engine are of my previous boat (a 2001 210 with a 351W). I have the board racks, I put them on when I need them, but I have to take them out to protect the cover. Last, three years owning this boat and I still don't know if I like or I hate the Super Air Nautique decals, they are so weird! ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-27-2016 at 3:14pm
| It's a lot harder putting the decals back on. They'll grow on you. |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: October-27-2016 at 3:30pm
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I would be more inclined to remove the 2nd set of reg numbers then those Kool decals. In case you are not aware, keep an eye on that tower, seen many original FCT like yours crack/break over time. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: October-27-2016 at 7:05pm
| Planet Nautique sells registration numbers in the Nautique font in white or black and in two sizes. I bought the smaller size. Very nice replacement for those red thingies. |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: October-27-2016 at 7:07pm
| https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/nautique-topics/general-nautique-discussion/25960-boat-registration-numbers-order-here" rel="nofollow - Planet Nautique Registration Letters/Numbers |
Posted By: TRIP
Date Posted: October-28-2016 at 6:37pm
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Awesome, keep the decals! My favorite SAN graphics, I like oldskool...! :) And sounds like you've used both PP and Hydrophase, right? One of the next things on my list, so good to know. ------------- http://www.flyzone-cr.com" rel="nofollow - FlyZone Costa Rica Wakeboarding http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=8406&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1997 Super Sport |
Posted By: alalor1
Date Posted: October-30-2016 at 11:32pm
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Hello, thank for the comment on the decals, so far I was able to live with them for 3 years, so I will probably keep them at least a few more years. I like the colorado registration, I think it's really cool to have a boat that worked in high altitude and it also helps justify such a massive engine on such a boat, and last, I love that they finish on GO I'm watching the tower carefully, and I'm ready to repair it. I know six boats with this tower, counting mine, only mine and a pro air didn't have cracks on top, right next to the welds on the inside of the curve, where they go flat. As most are so close to the curve and the cracks look like stress/fatigue cracks, I suspect it is due to the welder getting the pipe too hot and affecting the heat treatment of the pipe. I remember that when I fixed a FCT II tower that had been ran under a bridge, i was surprised to find that they made it out of 6063 to make it easier to form, but it makes it more flexible and more likely to fail due to fatigue, so I made my repairs (basicaly a whole new upper part of the tower that ended up being 4"taller) in 6061, and despite being taller, it was stiffer than the stock tower. Last, I had 3 PP models, one accu-ski and I checked carefully and tested and rode behind boats with Smart Tow, Zero Off and the systems in the new Malibus and mastercrafts, I was very happy with what I found out about the Hydrophase, so I went with it. I don't regret it, makes driving so much easier and relaxed, and also when I have a newbie driving when I am being towed, I know the speed will be steady. I have the GPS version because I ride on lakes, but I think it's really cool they also offer the paddlewheel version for people who ride on rivers with current. I will clean again all the exhaust systems again as soon as it cools down and start taking the boat out less often. Thanks again for all the input to y'all!!! ------------- 1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and opposite economist. 2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |