Stuffing Box ID and Adjustment
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39482
Printed Date: May-05-2024 at 10:29pm
Topic: Stuffing Box ID and Adjustment
Posted By: Poorhouse
Subject: Stuffing Box ID and Adjustment
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 4:27pm
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My stuffing box is leaking a bit. I'm getting a drip every couple seconds when stopped. I've read how to tighten and repack them. Seems straight forward. My issue is that the stuffing box in our boat does not look like anything I've found pictures of. I'm not seeing the adjustment nuts anywhere. Hoping someone here is familiar with what this is and how to adjust it.   ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Replies:
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 4:58pm
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Appears it might be this type from Glenwood Marine. %20" rel="nofollow - http://www.glenwoodmarine.com/Catalog/SHAFT%20LOG.pdf ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 5:06pm
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Jake, http://www.glenwoodmarine.net/Catalog/SHAFT%20LOG.pdf" rel="nofollow - Your link came up bad so here's a good one. It doesn't look like it's been greased in awhile? Pump some marine grease in it and see how long it lasts. It may not last that long since I feel the seal is bad from an alignment problem. Looking at the kink in the hose between the log and the "stuffing box", it's not good!! I'd say there's even a good chance that the shaft is rubbing on the log ID. When was the last time you checked the alignment? How's the strut for straightness? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 5:27pm
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I see what you mean about the kink. I think it is exaggerated in the photo but worth investigating. I have never checked the alignment. Quickly glancing at the strut I didn't see any issues. No vibrations when running. Boat is new to me as of this summer. Maybe I'll grease it for now and order a new seal. Then take it apart and investigate further. ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: lcgordon
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 5:39pm
| Personally I would atleast loosen the clamp on the hose that connects the hose to the log. Then slide the stuffing box and hose up the shaft and look if the shaft is rubbing bad on the log. You dont want to have to replace the log when the shaft wears through it is not fun. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 6:05pm
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Jake, If the grease doesn't slow down the drip for awhile, I would suggest getting a complete traditional gland. With the Glenwood design relying on grease for lubrication and easily washed away with water, I can't see where the seal would last very long. The retrofit dripless seals that are available, use a mechanical spring loaded seal the same design used on pump shafts and they have a continuous water supply. Big difference from the Glenwood! The Glenwood seal is also riding on the prop shaft surface. Bottom line is I don't feel it's a good design. I also notice the PVC elbow on your thru hull. Get a brass one on there before the PCV gets broken. It's below the water line!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 6:16pm
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I love this place! Never considered the PVC elbow. Will get brass on order and double check for anything else. So much to learn as a new boater. Thanks for pointing that out. I'll slip off the hose off the log and slide the assembly up tonight and report back. ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 10:24pm
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Took a look after work and noted a couple issues. There is a flap loose in the stuffing box seal. That warrants taking things apart to either replace the seal or the stuffing box with a traditional style. One hurdle to that. The heads for both lock bolts on the safety collar are broken off. I attempted to drill a pilot hole in the bolt shaft to use the EZ out. That didn't work, the drill bit didn't get purchase. I was tempted to put it off but I don't want to hurt the shaft. I have 2 ideas at this point. One is to use a cut off wheel to cut a notch into the shaft of each bolt and try to back them out with a screw driver. If that doesn't work I have a better start to drill a pilot hole for the EZ out. The second idea is a variation of the first. I'm wondering if I pull the prop can I pull the shaft out through the engine compartment. I'm guessing the strut won't allow enough angle to clear the transmission. I'm open to ideas on this one. ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 10:56pm
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Even if you get the two broken screws out I doubt you will be able to pull the collar off the shaft. Takes a lot of effort and a pulling device to free it. They are shrunk on with heat and a lot of interference fit. No the shaft won't go forward without pulling the engine/trans assy. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:29pm
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You could use a parting wheel to slice thru the safety collar in 2 places. You will probably gouge the shaft a little. You may not want to hear this, but cutting the shaft thru & getting a new ARE shaft would be the easiest route (but most expensive). ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:32pm
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Interesting. How is the seal serviceable with the collar in place? ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:36pm
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Jake, It sounds like you may not know much about the boats past. Even if the PO did tell you some things, he may not have told you the complete story so, I have a suggestion. Seeing the PO has got that odd ball shaft seal in it, I'd say something has happened to the shaft. Is it new or old? Is it straight or bent? First, check out the alignment video. There's a link in the FAQ thread in the maintenance forum. In it, there's some explanation on using a dial indicator clamped to the strut to check for shaft straightness. The shaft should be within .003" straight. Especially check at the aft end of the prop taper. If the prop has ever taken a hit, aft of the strut is where the shaft typically bends and that will show up. What I'm getting at here is if the shaft is bent, cut it out, forget messing with the safety collar and the heat shrunk interference fit of the trans coupling and replace the shaft with an ARE system. The ARE is a double taper shaft that makes it's R&R real easy! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:38pm
Sorry, but I sure wouldn't bother to mess with it due to it's poor design. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Poorhouse wrote:Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 12:25am
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Good advice. I'll look into a dial indicater. I'm still curious what the process would be to service either this seal or a packing gland nut. With the press fit collar the parts are captured. So from this point if the shaft is bent I cut it and start over. If the shaft is not bent I remove the collar, disassemble and rebuild with a new stuffing box. To salvage the remainder of the season I could reassemble as is with fresh grease on the seal. Maybe 6 -8 days on the water. Thoughts on that? ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 12:42am
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I don't think that I have ever had an EZ out work. You drill a hole start the ez out and as it goes into the hole you drilled it puts pressure and expands the part you drilled out. This is going to be a big job if you try to reuse parts IMHO. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 10:32am
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Re-reading this, I think there may be come confusion on which collar I am referring too. I'm talking about the small stainless collar just ahead of the stuffing box. Shown in both pics but more clearly in the second pic. I can't imagine it was pressed on. I'm guessing you guys were referring to the collar where the shaft meets the transmission. ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 10:42am
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Jake, I'm not confused! Check the shaft and then determine how to proceed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 11:02am
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You will also note that the set screws on the shaft coupler appear to be missing. I'm guessing that the shaft is not original. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 11:16am
LOL - Not you, I am clear on your advice. Any confusion is on my end, or in my misuse of terminology. Like the comment below.
The shaft coupler is the bronze piece at the end of the shaft where it meets the transmission output? There is a allen headed screw down in that hole. That is the piece I was referring to in my previous post. The shaft coupler, if I'm understanding correctly, is the piece that is press fit to the shaft. The small stainless collar seen in the 2nd photo is labeled "Lasdrop". From what I can find online it is a safety collar and would not have been press fit. That is the piece with the snapped off bolt heads. If I could remove that collar I could slide the whole mess up and take a look at the alignment of the shaft going through the log. Note: I did find some info that Supra fitted this type of stuffing box from the factory in the mid 80's. Not to say my shaft hasn't been replaced. Theoretical question - If a person were set on using this type of stuffing box how would they plan to service the seal? Does a double taper shaft slide out of the coupler? That is the only way I can imagine this making sense to use. ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 11:38am
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So are you trying to move the silver safety collar out of the way so you can remove the shaft boot to check and see how the driveshaft is running through the log? If that's the case, why not just cut the collar off? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 11:45am
Yes, exactly. That was my plan last night after the shaft alignment question was raised. I'm concerned about damaging the shaft and wanted to determine if the collar is servicing a purpose as is. ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 12:45pm
With the double taper ARE and the trans coupling held on with a taper, there's a ejecting nut that screws into the coupling popping the shaft out of the taper. Very easy R&R! As mentioned, that stuffing gland doesn't impress me at all. I would not bother even trying to fix it. I have a feeling Supra used it because of it's short installed length and they couldn't fir a good common stuffing gland in whereas your CC has plenty of room ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: lcgordon
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 1:02pm
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It also may have been the cheapest option at that time. Pretty easy to remove shaft and stuffing box. They are relatively cheap. Think I paid 60 bucks for a new one and it came with packing. |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 1:16pm
That is what I was hoping (assuming the shaft is straight). The DIY's I'm finding for shaft removal do not make it look easy. Removing the coupler looks like a bear of a job and can damage the transmission unless you have some specialty tools. Am I looking at the wrong DIY's? ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: lcgordon
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 1:35pm
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I dont see how you could possibly damage the transmission. Getting the 4 bolts out and the coupler unbolted from the tranny is easy. I dont know what kind of shaft and coupler you have. Im sure some of the other guys who have these boats could tell you exactly what to do. Mine is tapered so it came off pretty easy. Really the worst you will be out is 400 bucks. Its alot of money but compared to other boat costs its not that bad. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 2:18pm
Landis, Removing a single taper shaft coupling is BY FAR NOT easy with it's shrink to fit interference fit.!! You ether have a double taper shaft or your shaft and coupling were fretted due to bad alignment. Damage to the trans is extremely unlikely but, using the "long bolt and spacer trick" to remove the shaft coupling can distort the face of the coupling half on the trans. Jake, You are correct with the coupling removal and the reason to check the shaft first. If bent, cut it out!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: lcgordon
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 2:28pm
| Hmm not sure ive done it twice now. I think it looks like the same as the side that the prop is on. It came off not too bad once I put a socket on the shaft and used 4 long bolts to pop it off. Was not too hard. Idk what a double taper is? |
Posted By: lcgordon
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 2:30pm
| Oh mine is double taper. Its made by elberts just looked it up. Still dont know what double taper means. |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 2:43pm
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Double taper means both the prop side and transmission side of the shaft are tapered. Single taper would be tapered on the prop side. The transmission side would have the coupler pressed on. This is what I'm guessing I have. As you said unbolting the 4 retaining bolts is easy, and the shaft nut should be easy if there is clearance. Then you put a socket on the end of the shaft to press it out as you tighten the 4 bolts on the coupler. Tightening it to the transmission. This can damage either side of the coupler. Also unnecessary work if the shaft is bent and I could then just cut it. To you point $400 isn't big money to replace the shaft if necessary. That looks like it would buy me an ARE replacement system as well. I'm just amazed that an essentially unserviceable seal is used on this stuffing box. I'm also trying to determine what I should do right now to keep the boat in service for the rest of the (short) season. Finally, I need to find a dial indicator to check the shaft and would like to check the alignment. ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 2:55pm
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Jake, I just now noticed your signature with the Supra listed. All along I thought we were talking CC!! See what you get with a Supra - that cheesy stuffing gland!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 3:18pm
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LOL, no doubt. Couldn't find a good CC when I was shopping. The Supra was to good a deal to pass up on. Note that it has been taken apart and the stringers replaced. That more than anything has me curious about the alignment of the shaft. ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 4:41pm
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A few drips per minute is not bad, you might be able to grease that seal as advised and finish out the summer. Your full repair is a good off season job so you can take your time. The ARE Shaft is the best fix for sure and I bought one for my boat. With that said I have replaced 3 of the single taper shafts and they do come out without that much trouble if you are careful and logical. On my 78 Nautique I had to replace 2 shafts. On our 95 I replaced one. I unbolted from the tranny, Slipped a socket just smaller than shaft size in between the tranny and the coupler and used the 4 bolts to slowly and evenly tighten and push the shaft out. I may have needed longer bolts for this but it was a few years back and I don't remember. But it worked well and did not take long, 30 minutes maybe. This worked twice. On my 95 the boat ran so long with a bent shaft, previous owner, that the coupler slid off when I loosened the set screws.. It was worn out. Putting the coupler back on takes some thought but there is good advice on here to properly heat and install those and it was done for years prior to ARE but the ARE is really nice and easy to work with. |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 4:54pm
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I was expecting the ARE to be more expensive than a standard shaft. On Skidim the prices are about the same. ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 5:56pm
| But your shaft may be fine, check first, if a new one is needed ARE is a great option. |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 6:16pm
 ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 7:46pm
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It's not a safety collar ! It is the front half of your 80's Supra PSS. note the o-ring inside. (pic below) When your boat was new it had a rubber bellows instead of the straight hose it has now. Someone did some freelance hacking for you before you got there. I would take Pete's advice and replace the whole schmere with the traditional packing seal. And I think you already got the memo on the PVC.  Here's what it kinda looked like in '86 - except in the late 80's Supra did not have the water feed.  |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: July-27-2016 at 8:02pm
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Interesting info, thanks for sharing that. I'm going to put it back together as is, regrease it and run it for the rest of the season. Then I'll tackle measuring the shaft and either replacing the shaft and stuffing box or just the stuffing box. ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: May-23-2017 at 8:40pm
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Didn't get to this over the winter, had some other things come up. I ended up having to cut the shaft. The safety collar had to be cut off. I nicked the shaft in the process. I'll be ordering a new double taper shaft and shaft seal this week from skidim. I'm leaning toward a dripless shaft seal. I don't have a stuffing box. Buying a traditional set up isn't much cheaper than the dripless. Can I test the Cutlass bearing? Don't want to replace it if I don't need too. Any other "while I'm in there" things to consider? ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |
Posted By: fgroce
Date Posted: May-23-2017 at 9:52pm
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Cutlass bearing is cheap after everything else you are buying. If I was putting in a new shaft and drip less packing or seal I would also put in a new bearing. ------------- FGroce 88 Ski Nautique For 28 years Now 2002 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Poorhouse
Date Posted: May-24-2017 at 4:03pm
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Parts ordered including cutlass bearing. ------------- Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong. |