Trans fluid whats best??
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=38120
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 12:53am
Topic: Trans fluid whats best??
Posted By: throttle out
Subject: Trans fluid whats best??
Date Posted: February-17-2016 at 3:55pm
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My local parts shop has regular 20w oil and I'm wondering if which is best for my trans, 20w or ATF. Everyone seams to going ATF because no one seams to stock 20w anymore, but given a choice, what would yall run? Thanks!! Sammy ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 351 PCM w/ 1-1.23 |
Replies:
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-17-2016 at 4:13pm
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ATF Sammy . There was a reason PCM changed from 20w to ATF but I cannot remember ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-17-2016 at 4:16pm
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The ATF's high detergents keep the internals clean. It's primarily to keep varnish from building up on metal parts like clutch plates. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-17-2016 at 4:21pm
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Sam, http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21178&title=transmission-fluid-for-a-95-pcm-transmission" rel="nofollow - Here's a link out of the FAQ thread in the maintenance section titled "which transmission fluid". It has some more info. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: February-17-2016 at 5:06pm
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From CC several years ago: Hi Sean Thank you for bringing your question to us. The simple answer is Dexron III is what PCM currently recommends. PCM first used 20W oil (commonly found in motor cycles and farm equipment) and this likely is what came in your transmission when new (when your owners manual was printed). While Dexron has a 20W viscosity, it cannot be mixed with oil. To switch from 20W oil to Dexron, drain and fill your transmission with Dexron, run the engine until warm, then immediately drain and fill again. Please feel free to call or write back if you have further questions. Regards, Jim Jetmore Customer Service Correct Craft, Inc. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Customer Service, > > I own a 1992 Ski Nautique with the PCM PRO BOSS engine and PCM-40A > 1.23/1 transmission. The plate on the transmission and the boat > owners manual both specify to use 20 - 20W engine oil in the > transmission. Because I couldn't find 20-20W engine oil I spoke to a > Nautique dealer and another marina that services Nautiques and they > both said to use Dextron III ATF. What oil should I be using ? > > Thank You, |
Posted By: throttle out
Date Posted: February-17-2016 at 5:31pm
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nuff said! Thanks Fellas!! ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 351 PCM w/ 1-1.23 |
Posted By: Blamey
Date Posted: February-17-2016 at 6:16pm
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Is there a way to tell whats in the transmission (oil or ATF). I want to change my transmission fluid in the spring and don't know what the previous owner put in. ------------- 96 Super Sport Previously: 95 Sport Nautique, 1980 Ski Supreme |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: February-17-2016 at 6:23pm
| New automatic transmission fluid has a bright to dark red, translucent color. The red color is the result of dye that is added to the transmission fluid for identification. |
Posted By: NCtique
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 10:06pm
| I have a 1985 ski nautique. The boat had been in storage for 13 years until last summer when I got it running and starting taking it out. I figured a transmission service is necessary. it calls for type a fluid according to the sticker on the valve cover (looks like and engine oil color). Seems from this thread that I will be changing to dexron III?? I own a vacuum evacuator I am wondering if it would be best to put it in the lake and pull out what i can and fill with the dexron and do that a few times until it looks like the dexron? Or is it worth trying to drain and fill a couple times?? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-29-2016 at 10:33am
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Jarrett, You don't need to put the boat in the water for a trans fluid change however, you do want to do at least two changes Some will do three changes since unless the trans is out of the boat, you can't suck out all of the fluid. So, do the first, get it out on the lake to get the ATF mixed in with the old type A and then do the second change. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: March-03-2016 at 10:22pm
Here's the story in case anyone is still interested. In 1989 when PCM came out with the 40 Series transmissions, the 40A, otherwise known as the 1.23:1, had a whine in the reduction gears. We at CC complained bitterly to PCM, as did our customers to us. PCM decided to change the recommended oil to 20 weight motor oil. Then we found out that not only did it not help any on the whine issue, but also that it is very difficult to find in the southern states. (I know.... that wouldn't be the case nowadays with many new automobiles using it. I cringe whenever they put it in my truck, but that's what the dealer says it has to have) Anyway, back to the PCM story. They made stick-on labels to put on the transmission ID plates saying to use 20W. When the above was discovered, they went back to ATF. Some of those old stick-on labels are still around. Truthfully, the transmissions don't care which you put in them, or you can mix them if you want. The friction factor in the clutches might be slightly reduced with the motor oil, but there has been no discernable reduction in life or performance when it was used. The now-current 80 series transmissions are far better units than the 40 series, and they are Made in the USA! ------------- "Art" |
Gary S wrote:Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: March-03-2016 at 10:50pm
Art, could you fill us in on these new units? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: March-04-2016 at 10:46pm
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The internals of them look a whole lot like a Velvet Drive / Warner Gear, and many of the parts appear to be common with the AS1 71 series later known as the 1017. The 80s are in an aluminum case, making them a bit lighter than the 40 series equivalents. They are completely retro-fittable, same dimensions all over as the corresponding 40s. . Warner sold their marine division many years ago, and it was picked up by a couple of different owners after that. Currently it is known as Velvet Drive division of Richmond Gear and they are located in Liberty, SC, which is located probably not coincidentally close to Little Mountain, where PCM resides. I strongly suspect that they are building the 80 series gears that are branded as PCMs. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-04-2016 at 11:14pm
| Pretty sure the 40's are also aluminum cased, Art... They sure are a lot lighter than the velvets- 30-40lbs at least. I think Eric suspected the 40's were made by ZF. Interesting that the 80's may be different... I assume the rebuild kits are not compatible between the 2? |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: March-04-2016 at 11:26pm
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Yes, the 40s are definitely aluminum cased, and many internal parts are aluminum also. The 80s have a lot more iron parts inside. A 40A (1.23:1) is 68 lbs.. and the 80 version is 92. A 1017 is right at 100. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: March-04-2016 at 11:29pm
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I didn't pay much attention to the compatibility of the gasket sets. All I have seen thus far is a cutaway 1 to 1 Series 80 unit that PCM brought to a service school at CC last week. There is no parts book or repair manual yet that I know of. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: March-05-2016 at 10:41am
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The 40 is a ZF design, it was made in italy also. Eric has always noted the 40's as a "wallmart transmission", not so good for high torque apps, I think one of the reasons for a tougher transmission are the G-series boats and the newer more powerful engines for heavy loaded wakeboard/wakesurf boats. They had some transmission issues with the earlier boats as well. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: March-05-2016 at 10:56am
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True, the 40s are (were?) made by ZF.in Italy. ZF also makes other brands of marine transmissions. One of the biggest problems with the 1 to 1 40 is its intolerance of poor shaft alignment, which puts side loads on the forward clutch drum, causing the rotating aluminum drum to contact the aluminum case, resulting in galling of the aluminum and damaging the seal between the drum and the case. This causes loss of hydraulic pressure and failure of the clutches. The 1.23 suffers from similar problems. If the drum and the case are damaged, the cost of the two parts plus the labor adds up to far more than the cost of replacing with an 80 Series. PCM sells a very nice kit that includes the transmission, a new oil cooler, and a drive plate. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: March-05-2016 at 11:42am
| Are the PCM 1:1s the same as the Hurths that Indmar used? They were made by ZF in Italy as well. We haven't had any problems with ours, but it does not shift as smoothly and is no where near as quiet as a Velvet Drive. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-05-2016 at 12:10pm
Don't know how you can tell Bruce. I think it's pretty safe to say anything with a Velvet has straight pipes  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: March-05-2016 at 12:35pm
I don't think the transmissions are interchangeable. To the best of my knowledge, the 40I 1 to 1 was a proprietary unit only sold through PCM. I'm not familiar with a Hurth that's identical. Just top clear up the terminology a bit, the 40 i (as in like the letter "I" stands for "inline,." as in the input and output shafts are in line with each other. The 40A, which we call the 1.23 to 1, is an "Angle" unit' the input and output shafts are at 5 degrees to each other. (or is it 9 degrees? My brain is still in neutral! ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 1:25pm
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Could someone advise me on ATF? On the '98 Sport I know to use Dexron III, but now when I look in stores I see either Dexron VI or Dexron/Mercon as the two options with Dexron in the name. Is either OK? One better than the other? Any reason I should be searching for Dexron III? ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 1:43pm
| Dex/merc |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 2:27pm
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Dexron III or any higher number. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 3:34pm
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Wait ..... so either, or are you guys disagreeing on which is best? ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 3:50pm
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I always used Dex/Merc ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 4:04pm
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http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-Dexron-Mercon-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid/15125788" rel="nofollow - Just bought one of these at Wally World or use Dexron VI it's backwards compatible |
Posted By: bwinn
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 4:06pm
| I believe the consensus is dex/merc atf fluid Non-synthetic |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 4:23pm
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Why non synthetic? In ATF? Lay some learning on me. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 4:39pm
| Too slippery for a wet clutch transmission is what I had been told (2nd hand from PCM). |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 4:54pm
Correct. The automatic in your car or truck is not a wet clutch. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 4:59pm
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Thanks Tim. I think Ill call Transmission Marine to verify. I've been running Amsoil since rebuild on mine +- 300 hours with no issue. Its time for service so now is when to know. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 5:05pm
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OK, to quote "Bill" from Transmission Marine in Fort Lauderdale: "I have never seen or heard of anyone having a problem running synthetics...BUT... Not one marine gear manufacturer recommends synthetic oil for their reversing gears. Dextron Mercon will be fine". There you have it. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 6:00pm
| The story I was told was that PCM started seeing premature transmission failures during testing (800-900hrs?) with synthetic. Supposedly this is a well understood issue in the motorcycle/dirt bike world, as they use wet clutch trannies too. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 6:13pm
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Again I agree with Tim. My best man in my wedding waaaay back, owned a Honda cycle dealership and has always been and still is very involved with the cycle world. He would never use nor recommend a synthetic in a wet clutch trans. John, How many hours do you have on the trans since you started using the synthetic? Hopefully it's not getting close to the 800 mark!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 6:19pm
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About 350, only two seasons. I called TM just to make sure as I had never heard that before. Not being old enough to know everything, I enjoy learning. And today I did just that. I guess Ill flush it out and run the Dextron. It will save me a few bucks as well. I'm still running the Amsoil in the engine though unless Y'all can tell why that is also a bad idea? My boat is barn kept and I'm not allowed to do oil changes so that means it gets put off for way longer than many of you would be comfortable with. The Amsoil gets me longer life at twice the price. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 6:52pm
So Pete Can you explain how an automatic works with dry clutches? I think you need to refresh your brain cells on how an automatic works and what the fluid is for. They use discs of basically the same material as a Borg Warner. KenO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 7:18pm
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Ken, http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+does+an+automatic+transmission+work&view=detail&mid=2B5142DB5B61CA2541822B5142DB5B61CA254182&FORM=VIRE" rel="nofollow - Here's how they work. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 7:42pm
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Hi Pete I stick with what I said before KenO |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 8:18pm
+1. This was true for every motorcycle I've ever owned. We sold out '92 last summer with over 1800 hours on the motor and trans and she ran like a top. Always used Dex/Merc for the trans. No slippage or dirty neutral. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: March-08-2016 at 9:10pm
Pete: Very informative, Well done! After you were done filming did they let you keep the flag and that jaunty cap? ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: throttle out
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 9:11am
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I genuinely found that video to be one of the best I've seen for things like this, but I'm not a very smart man lol. ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 351 PCM w/ 1-1.23 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 11:03am
Ken, I am admittedly ignorant on the inner workings of transmissions, so what I was told could have been misleading or oversimplified... And I could also be misremembering to a degree! What was clear was that synthetic was not ideal for PCM trans, and I took that to apply to the velvets as well. The comparison was definitely made to motorcycle/dirt bike transmissions, though it appears "wet clutch" may not be the specific common design element... Anyone who knows transmissions a bit better may school us on the specifics that make this a valid comparison- or debunk it! My information came from a source I trusted at the time, though I cannot recall who it was that gave me that info... It's been almost 10 years. |
Posted By: bwinn
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 11:32am
Agreed automatic transmissions have wet clutches. Standard transmission are driven by a dry clutch. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 11:38am
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Isn't the above argument missing the point, when motorcycles are referred to we're talking about wet clutch standard tranny's, nobody really is thinking wet clutch automatic transmission for cars? The PCM's we have are closer to those cycle wet clutch arrangements than a car auto tranny. Or am I missing the point? Thanks for all the discussion after my question, interesting. Eric Lavine would be very helpful if we could ever get him to log in again! ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: bwinn
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 12:13pm
| Sorry I was referring to automotive |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 12:56pm
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Once again we went along way down the wrong road The original post was 20w or ATF in a PCM trans. I remember Eric saying ATF. Motorcycles are completely different,spring pressure not hydraulics control plate pressure. Motorcycle clutches live in a completely different environment too, Many use one oil throughout the system requiring a oil that needs ZDDP for the cam and being able to resist the shearing of the transmission gears and the action of the clutch. In the 60's and 70's when I was active in motorcycles you could and we did run automotive oil in them, not having much choice. When I got back into them in the 90's I found that when using automotive oils in my Honda that when it sat for a week the clutch plates would be stuck. Switched to Honda's branded oil solved the problem. Bottom line use a quality oil change it often. In the scheme of things it's cheap. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 1:15pm
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Gary, the early PCM transmissions (89-90, possibly later) specified the use of 20w oil. This may have been partially to address a low speed buzzing, for which an external fix was later added to the symptomatic boxes. After the hardware fix (internal on later trannies), switching over to ATF is fine. My 90 has the external fix and I switched from 20w to ATF soon after I bought it 10 years ago. Looked great inside so the 20w was not doing any harm (1100+ hrs). Quality fluids changed regularly is half the battle but you gotta run the right fluid too! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 4:10pm
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Ken, I found some time since you got me going on a research/education mission and I've come up with some important differences in wet clutches as used in automotive and marine applications. So here's some opinions from an engineering standpoint. First is the fact that in a marine, there isn't the typical torque converter as in a car. The torque converter allows slip or a cushion so the primary wet clutch doesn't see all the engine torque at once. A marine see's all the torque from the beginning all the way to WOT and, as you know must maintain that torque at all times to keep the hull on the top of the water. Next the initial loading on an automotive is drastically reduced at the start via the reduction planetary gearing. A marine only sees this initial loading via prop slip. With the automotive secondary wet clutches on the planetary reduction gear sets, they are there simply to engage the planet set to the main hub so, the hub is seeing all the torque rather than the wet clutch. The physical size of these clutches is relatively large just to clear the center hubs so they have plenty of capacity. In my research, I also came across lots of information regarding early GM and some Ford automatics run on synthetics. Evidently they too suffered from slippage due to the low coefficient of friction with the synthetics. I may be wrong with my ideas and am certainly open to comment. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 4:24pm
The 20W was intended more to quiet the whine than the buzzing. It didn't work, so they went back to ATF. At the time, you couldn't find 20 in FL unless you paid motorcycle shop prices! Haven't we thrashed this topic to death by now? I think we're setting an endurance record. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 4:28pm
"trashed" ?? I thought this a forum for discussion! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-09-2016 at 8:48pm
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Glad to help you with a little learnin' Pete, You 've more to do though. Now as far as the answer to the question about synthetic ATF, it's probably the same as the answer to all those other questions like What's the best oil out there What's the best filter what's better an Acme or an OJ prop and six million other questions that everybody has their own opinion on. but....that's just my opinion  KenO |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: March-10-2016 at 10:44am
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FWIW, our old tranny friend Eric always said "NO Synthetic" in our boat trans, IIRC for the same reason as Timmy previously noted, "too slippery". ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: March-10-2016 at 6:07pm
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Good enough for me. I have other stuff to worry about. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: ScottZ
Date Posted: March-11-2016 at 12:38am
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I just changed the trans. fluid out in my mother's 05 Super Sport that has around 1400 hours. I put in synthetic fluid thinking I was making an "improvement". This boat has close to 100 hours a year put on it. I will change it out soon. ------------- Scott Zuelzke Lake Mitchell , AL 1984 Ski Nautique 1972 Skier |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: March-24-2016 at 12:32am
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Not sure if this will add anything, I just flushed mine and put in castro dex VI. Not sure if it is prop singing or tranny wine Did not notice the noise before as much. I will be flushing again and going back with valvoline III and about 6 to 8 oz of lucas , ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-24-2016 at 6:15am
Mike, What's the Lucas? A "stop leak"? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: March-24-2016 at 10:54am
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Here's a link to the Lucas page with their tranny products: %20" rel="nofollow - http://lucasoil.com/products/transmission-products Mike, Lucas makes fine products but not sure they apply to this application. I think your idea of another fluid change makes sense, but not so sure the additive is a good idea. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-24-2016 at 11:06am
David, http://lucasoil.com/products/transmission-products" rel="nofollow - Your link doesn't work for me so here's another to Lucas Mike, What Lucas are you adding and why? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: March-24-2016 at 11:21am
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Thanks Pete, but your link doesn't work for me! And mine doesn't work for me either! Oh, well. Here's one that (hopefully) works for all. http://lucasoil.com/products/transmission-products" rel="nofollow - Lucas ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: March-24-2016 at 11:34am
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Hi, Not really sure why I put the lucas in, but no leaks and tranny is holding up well. Cant see where it would hurt anything. ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-24-2016 at 12:11pm
| Any additive beyond ATF isn't going to help, it can only harm. Don't. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-24-2016 at 12:30pm
Mike, I agree with Tim. You mention no leaks. If the additive is a leak stopper, keep in mind what Eric our trans expert always said. He would comment on how it swelled up all the rubber to the point where particles would contaminate the trans. I too suggest not using any type of additive. Yes, it will do more harm than good! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: March-24-2016 at 1:58pm
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Thanks again, I will save some money. No additive ------------- Lakedog55 |