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Mustang 17 rebuild

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=38009
Printed Date: April-29-2024 at 3:22am


Topic: Mustang 17 rebuild
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Subject: Mustang 17 rebuild
Date Posted: January-24-2016 at 3:32pm
I have finally finished up the stringer and floor replacement job in my '78 Mustang. Not ready to do another one of these for a while. Will be building seat frames next. Re-gel top and bottom and then it will be on to updating and freshening the engine. Last pic is of the other "Mustang" I work on a 1979.

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)



Replies:
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: January-28-2016 at 3:14pm
Front seat frame is fabricated all but the aluminum sheets for the upholstery to go onto. I will weld them into place and then clean up the weldment. Used 1 X 1 X 1/8 wall aluminum tubing. Hope to have rear seat frame done Friday and then deliver to upholstery guy Saturday. MUCH lighter than the original. Opted for a full front seat instead of 3/4 because it will fit our needs better. More pics to come. Duane

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-28-2016 at 4:47pm
Duane,
Nice fab job. keep the pictures coming.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Chevy350
Date Posted: January-28-2016 at 10:10pm
Seeing this makes me want to get my dad and I to redo the floor on our mustang.

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1972 Mustang


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-04-2016 at 3:15pm
Heading to upholstery shop with the front seat. Pics show frame only and frame with rigid backup foam. Original foam to go back in..

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-05-2016 at 6:07pm
Was busy today punching holes in the rear seat back. Punched over 200   1 5/16 dia. holes Trying to keep everything as light as possible without compromising strength. Will try to do the seat bottom tomorrow. The back seat bottom will hinge forward so as to access rear bilge area. The seat back "keyholes" in on some pins. Ordered upholstery material yesterday. Blue.


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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-21-2016 at 3:23pm
Been busy since dropping stuff off to the upholstery shop. Fabbed up an engine cradle. The original setup was nothing more that a chunk of 2 X 4 cut on a 15 degree angle and lag screwed to the stringers. This set up will get cross bolted and lagged to the stringers. I will bed the cradle to the stringers with thickened epoxy prior to bolting down. Going to glass bead my mounts also. Should be a lot stronger and will spread the load out.

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: February-21-2016 at 3:37pm
I like the cradle. Why not fab it up to brace the pylon too, wouldn't be much more effort?

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Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-21-2016 at 3:56pm
Originally posted by Orlando76 Orlando76 wrote:

I like the cradle. Why not fab it up to brace the pylon too, wouldn't be much more effort?

Pylon mount already in place under floor. Bedded in and bolted down and in socket in hull


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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-21-2016 at 4:03pm
Finished shot of pylon


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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: February-21-2016 at 5:15pm
Love the fab work,


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-22-2016 at 12:43am
Wish I could weld like that.

Nice work!

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โ€œBeer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.โ€

Ben Franklin


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 2:42pm
Been busy making wood shavings instead of metal for a change. Made my new dash panel from some Poplar that I've had in the loft to 25+ years. Planed it down and then put it on the mill. Stain, acrylic urethane, sand and buff. Glove box cover is not sanded or buffed yet. Wiring will start soon.


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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Fabcon
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 9:53pm
Very nice fab work.

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1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1984 Barefoot Nautique (Parting Out)


Posted By: Kristof
Date Posted: February-26-2016 at 10:18am
That is some nice craftsmanship!!



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- Gun control means: using BOTH hands!
- Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle...



Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-26-2016 at 2:41pm
Thanks for the compliments.

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: February-26-2016 at 6:18pm
That's some sweet aluminum welding partner. I'd be more specific but I know what happens when I use language like filet weld and butt weld.... Quinner has some sort of alarm system that goes off and, well.... You know what I mean.


Posted By: fanofccfan
Date Posted: February-26-2016 at 10:47pm
Nice work. Both the metal and dare I say it? Wood.....works!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-26-2016 at 10:50pm
Great looking work Duane.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 8:55am
DAYAM!!!!! That's some nice work. Very sweet.

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When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



Eddie


Posted By: Smithfamily
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 9:24am
Very impressive! When we gonna have her in the water? Summer is approaching!!

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Js


Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 10:11am
Looks like maybe I shoulda took another couple of years of woodshop back in High School. Beeeeeeeeeeeautiful! Nice Persian rug too!



On a second note.....I was looking at the stern pictures a little closer at the top of this thread and noticed the OEM air ducts back there. I replaced mine with flexible RV waste line I got at Walmart. It's basically the same stuff that's in there just black. Copper wire reinforced and TOUGH Vinyl.. It was a chore getting it on the scoops but I won the battle. Mine was mildewed real bad and dry rotted just as bad.

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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 11:11am
Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:

Looks like maybe I shoulda took another couple of years of woodshop back in High School.

Yes but one think they wouldn't have taught is how to use a insert fly cutter in a vertical mill (Bridgeport) on wood!!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 11:36am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:

Looks like maybe I shoulda took another couple of years of woodshop back in High School.

Yes but one think they wouldn't have taught is how to use a insert fly cutter in a vertical mill (Bridgeport) on wood!!


Pete, You have a clever eye. Also when we were in wood shop they had not invented the insert carbide cutter yet!! As I had told you in a PM, that I also built that insert cutter years ago. Bridgeports and wood don't really go together, do they? LOL

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 11:42am
Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:

Looks like maybe I shoulda took another couple of years of woodshop back in High School. Beeeeeeeeeeeautiful! Nice Persian rug too!



On a second note.....I was looking at the stern pictures a little closer at the top of this thread and noticed the OEM air ducts back there. I replaced mine with flexible RV waste line I got at Walmart. It's basically the same stuff that's in there just black. Copper wire reinforced and TOUGH Vinyl.. It was a chore getting it on the scoops but I won the battle. Mine was mildewed real bad and dry rotted just as bad.


I made a note of your suggestion on RV hose at Walmart when you first posted it and even went there to check it out. Found two thicknesses of hose. Thanks for the suggestion and big thanks to you and all others for compliments.
Rebuilding these old boats is like eating an elephant, one bite at a time and you'll get there

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 12:01pm
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

Pete, You have a clever eye. Also when we were in wood shop they had not invented the insert carbide cutter yet!!   

You must be a couple years older than I since I remember the inserts were just coming out. Back then, we would have had to been creative at the tool grinder and use one of these:



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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 1:22pm
When I was doing the Chris Craft Wenfound some ducting the local race teams (nascar) use to cool the breaks - if I recall it was 3" black and pretty stout (yet flexible). Spendy though when it is sold by the foot

Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:

Looks like maybe I shoulda took another couple of years of woodshop back in High School. Beeeeeeeeeeeautiful! Nice Persian rug too!



On a second note.....I was looking at the stern pictures a little closer at the top of this thread and noticed the OEM air ducts back there. I replaced mine with flexible RV waste line I got at Walmart. It's basically the same stuff that's in there just black. Copper wire reinforced and TOUGH Vinyl.. It was a chore getting it on the scoops but I won the battle. Mine was mildewed real bad and dry rotted just as bad.


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'05 206 Limited
'88 BFN


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 2:32pm
There's a reason Correct Craft used dryer vent,when you say boat,airplane or racecar you know what that does to the price

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95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: March-12-2016 at 2:06pm
Interior is all at the upholstery shop so I started working on the engine some. Went with FLOTEK heads. They are a really nice piece. Very little core shift. I have port matched them and did a mild port and polish job. For the money they are hard to beat plus you save about 40 pounds over stock heads. They can even be painted blue to suit the original folks..


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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: March-13-2016 at 6:54pm
Port matched and opened up the exhaust manifolds/heat exchangers. The ports were really restricted. Have to be careful not to thin the walls too much. First pic shows how small the port really is. Second pic is opened up considerably, the shadow in the rear makes it look like a big restriction in there but is only a shadow

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: farmer
Date Posted: March-14-2016 at 11:00am
wow,I thought I had done a lot of work on my Mustang ! Looks great.

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Watch your fingers.









Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-14-2016 at 1:53pm
Got back in town and back on the project. Engine in pretty well buttoned up and will post pics later. Now working on the hull. Mike on Dirty Jobs should take on a re-gel job!! This has got to be the nastiest job going in boat rebuilds. You can see in the pics just how bad the blisters are. Look like potato chips glued to the hull. Fortunately only the area below the water line is affected. Hope to shoot gel this next week. Have to finish grinding then patch, veil, fair, sand and prep first.


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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: lcgordon
Date Posted: April-14-2016 at 2:02pm
Awesome work


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-14-2016 at 2:48pm
Engine is "mocked up" while I degree in the camshaft.
Specs:
302 bored .060 over, Sealed Power pistons and rings
Comp Cams custom ground cam shaft .486 lift
Edelbrock Performer type dual plane intake
New Holley marine carb
FloTek alum. cylinder heads, ported and polished
Intake and exhaust manifolds port matched
Needle bearing roller rocker arms
Mallory ignition w/ Flame Thrower coil
Cleavite 77 bearings
High volume oil pump
I realize it ain't stock or original but with the motor cover down who's to know??

   

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: lcgordon
Date Posted: April-14-2016 at 2:50pm
Looks awesome great work. I bet it will rip now


Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: April-14-2016 at 4:54pm
you better check your flame arrester clearance to bottom of dog house I have a tricked out mustang that had clearance issues had to make a spacer on bottom. btw nice work.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-14-2016 at 5:19pm
Duane,
Wow! It sure looks and sounds like you built up one H of an engine! Watch yourself when you get out in that boat. Why the high volume oil pump?

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-14-2016 at 5:59pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Duane,
Wow! It sure looks and sounds like you built up one H of an engine! Watch yourself when you get out in that boat. Why the high volume oil pump?


Pete, Advice on the "Watch yourself" is well taken. I will heed your advice as that has been on my mind also. The boat has had no ill manners before and hope it stays that way. Of course that was before removing about 300-400 pounds of saturated foam. Engine will be about 75 lb lighter also. I am looking more into acceleration rather than sustained WOT runs. The hull has about 1/8" of hook in the last 24". I can either leave it as is or flatten it out.    I made two battery box locations, one standard under the seat and another in very rear. That will allow me to move weight around if needed. Am sure open to suggestions on the hull configuration (hook or flat). High volume but standard pressure pumps have always been my choice in cars I have built. They tend to work well on "seasoned" engines. ie: lifter bores,side clearance issues on reground cranks ect. It's just cheap insurance.

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: April-14-2016 at 6:16pm
Trust me Duane, I know how dirty that job is. What did you use to grind off the old Gel? Did it leave you with a lot of fairing?

You could finish 10 projects to my 1 at this pace.

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Craig
67 SN
73 SN
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport
85SN


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-14-2016 at 6:24pm
C-Bass,    Using a 9" Milwaukee disc grinder with 24 grit disc. I plan to fair the entire hull that was below the water line. That is where the blisters are. Taking it down to bare glass because of fear that they may reappear. Hope to shoot gel by first of week. Grinder gets HEAVY.

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: April-14-2016 at 8:53pm
I am not sure this is the place to ask this but.... with Hussler trying trim tabs, people grinding hook out of the early hulls. has anyone thought about what actually catches the water and causes that god awful bow dive and steering wheel ripping out of your hands as it exits right. or left. is it the (forgive me for the wrong terminology) those hard sharp chines? if so can the hull be modified with the idea of top speed safety instead of a small wake? Is there something else in the fiberglass that can be restructured other than weight distribution, hook, and prop strut design?


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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-15-2016 at 6:49am
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Duane,
Why the high volume oil pump?

High volume but standard pressure pumps have always been my choice in cars I have built. They tend to work well on "seasoned" engines. ie: lifter bores,side clearance issues on reground cranks ect. It's just cheap insurance.

Duane,
It's always been my opinion that high volume pumps are used on engines with larger than normal bearing clearances and not needed on a fresh rebuild with clearances to spec. I sure may be wrong and it sounds like you've rebuilt more than I so fill me in on your ideas.


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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-15-2016 at 7:14am
Originally posted by peter1234 peter1234 wrote:

I am not sure this is the place to ask this but.... with Hussler trying trim tabs, people grinding hook out of the early hulls. has anyone thought about what actually catches the water and causes that god awful bow dive and steering wheel ripping out of your hands as it exits right. or left. is it the (forgive me for the wrong terminology) those hard sharp chines?

Peter,
My understanding of what happens is pretty basic and along the same lines as your idea. The bow takes a nose dive planting the hulls stem and keel in the water and then any hull roll causes the chine to catch the water. When that happens you get the violent aft to bow turn the same that's intentionally done with the "180's" or what I call the bat cave turns. The difference between the two is when the turn is done intentionally, the power is chopped whereas with the unintentional the power is maintained. With the maintained power and the chine catching (locking) the hull continues the roll and then the worst is a hull flip. This is what happened to a friends overpowered Chris Craft reproduction. The Grand Crafts copy of Chris's hull and then with a modern high power engine isn't a combination to take lightly. In fact, I seem to recall Grand Craft has some law suits on this problem.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-15-2016 at 7:37am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Duane,
It's always been my opinion that high volume pumps are used on engines with larger than normal bearing clearances and not needed on a fresh rebuild with clearances to spec. I sure may be wrong and it sounds like you've rebuilt more than I so fill me in on your ideas.

Pete, You are correct on your thinking. Seasoned engines tend to have clearances toward the high side because of wear in lifter bores and side clearances on the crank due to regrinding the journals (also if you have drilled .016 holes in the oil plugs to lube the timing chain better).. Clearances between bearings and journals diameter is in spec. Not crazy about High Pressure pumps but I like idea of extra volume to make up for any leakage. High pressure is only needed when you are running a lot of compression and need that extra cushion of oil. Just one of my habits I guess and pumps are cheap. I always use new pumps on rebuilds.
Race team mentality I guess as we go thru LOTS of parts per weekend. (8000 hp eats parts)

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: April-15-2016 at 9:20am
Pete .Do you then on that line of thinking feel there is a potential to modify the hulls to cet the odds of it happening? I know its not original but if someone is so hell bent on taking these boats to a level speed wise .maybe some grinding , reglassing and general reshaping?


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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-15-2016 at 10:04am
Originally posted by peter1234 peter1234 wrote:

Pete . if someone is so hell bent on taking these boats to a level speed wise .maybe some grinding , reglassing and general reshaping?

It can be done however I feel it takes plenty of experimenting and guessing. If you think about the evolution of the hull all the way from the start with simple displacement hulls to what's out there today plenty has happened. Back in the "gentlemen's" racing days when they were putting BIG HP's in displacement hulls, there was plenty of the experimenting and guessing and plenty of crashes too! All the boat manufacturers including CC have gone through the changes and the risk. Several, including myself have mentioned the riskiest are tabs on a high HP Mustang hull to intentionally plant the nose.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: April-15-2016 at 10:05am
I have the same issue with my mustang, at wot in light choppy waters it can violently turn on you if your not paying attention. the boat has been fitted with a 360 Chrysler pushing over 400 hp. the hull is bone stock, it has happened 2 times now, the second time it tossed 2 passengers totally out of the boat. we were very lucky.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-15-2016 at 10:16am
Look at any boat of the era including CC and you'll see they all ran bow high and for a reason. Even as the HP's were increasing, they kept the engine towards the aft to keep the bow high.



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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 67nautique312
Date Posted: April-15-2016 at 1:03pm
WOW....Nice work all the way around!!

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1963 Classic (handed down to my daughter)
67 Riviera
68 barracuda
1971 Ski Nautique Promo
86 Silver Nautique
1995 Ski Nautique


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: May-13-2016 at 3:40pm
Been a while since updating so I thought I would share a few pictures. Am very close to making some noise. Have to finish plumbing and wiring. Oil is in and pre lubed. Need to hang tranny and starter and odds and ends. Hoping to bolt it up to the dyno for the run in if we have the right brackets. Exhaust usually goes out thru the roof, that won't work with water so may have to figure out something with buckets and pumps. Gauge panel on rear of engine contains the oil pressure, starter solenoid, main breaker, hour meter, remote starter and kill switch. With the doghouse down it all looks original Anyway here are the pics.



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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: May-17-2016 at 1:14pm
Just finished the initial run in on the engine. Rather uneventful other than a couple of water leaks. One on the RWP (gasket), the other the back side of the water pump. That one will entail a fair amount of work. Oil at idle around 45psi and at rpm was around 60+. That is where I like it. Water ran at 135. Exactly what the stat is. Sounds strong, we will know how strong soon!! Still a month away from initial voyage. No tranny creep either. Duane

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: November-11-2016 at 1:12pm
Finally racing season is over and I can concentrate my efforts back to the Mustang. Hull faired out and ready for gel


Ready for wet sand and buff


As soon as my masks arrive I can apply stripes and Mustang 17 to the sides. Still up in the air as to whether use paint or gel for the graphics and then clear. Have 1 gallon of clear gel coat on hand.

Recommendations ???

BTW: Gel coat is a major PITA

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: November-11-2016 at 2:25pm
Looks good Duane. You manage a much quicker pace than I did. How did the gel application go? I agree that re-gel is a PITA. I remember that dust all too well.



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Craig
67 SN
73 SN
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport
85SN


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: November-11-2016 at 7:49pm
Originally posted by C-Bass C-Bass wrote:

Looks good Duane. You manage a much quicker pace than I did. How did the gel application go? I agree that re-gel is a PITA. I remember that dust all too well.


Craig, Once I figured out what I was doing it went much better. Shot with a 3.0mm tip. Last coat thinned with more Styrene than the build up coats and orange peel was tolerable. Sanded next to last coat and then layed down several thinned coats. Last one with wax additive. That makes sanding much easier. Hope to flip the hull over soon. The deck should be easy in comparison to hull. The hull had blistered badly below the water line..
Duane

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: December-01-2016 at 7:40am
Started on graphics on the Mustang. All of the hull is now new gel coat. Painted the stripes on the transom. Blue matches the interior. "Mustang 17" stencil masks have arrived as well as the registration number masks. The side stripes will need to be laid out by hand and masked. As soon as I get them shot then I can flip the boat and finish the gel on the deck.



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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: December-01-2016 at 10:39am
Great work, that's going to be a sharp boat.


Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: December-01-2016 at 11:02am
Duane,
We've got to see this thing in Green Lake next summer !!!!!


Moj'

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05' SV211 TE
73' Martinique
had:96' SNOB
had:76' Nautique
had 77 Tique

       



Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-01-2016 at 11:10am
Duane,
I sure agree that it's looking fantastic!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 67nautique312
Date Posted: December-01-2016 at 1:16pm
WOW...Nice work!!

Paul

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1963 Classic (handed down to my daughter)
67 Riviera
68 barracuda
1971 Ski Nautique Promo
86 Silver Nautique
1995 Ski Nautique


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: December-07-2016 at 6:13pm
Got one side shot now. Will wet sand in a day or so and then buff it out. Move on over to the opposite side next.





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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: December-14-2016 at 7:29am
Getting ready to shoot the port side. Masked off finally. Prep work takes much longer than actually painting. Word of advice for those wanting to have a sign shop make their masks: have them make them in a contrasting color. Nearly impossible to see the font with white mask on white hull. Live and learn! (Learn means " I'm not doing another one of these!!!)

Hard to see the Mustang lettering


You can see what I mean with the number mask


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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: December-14-2016 at 7:56am
Nice work.

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'05 206 Limited
'88 BFN


Posted By: Kristof
Date Posted: December-14-2016 at 8:50am
Very nice indeed!

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- Gun control means: using BOTH hands!
- Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle...



Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: December-14-2016 at 6:19pm
Productive day. Painted stripes and lettering on port side today. That should wrap up the paint work. Give it some time to harden out and I can wet sand and finish buff the hull sides and bottom. BTW I have the font graphics on file if anybody else needs them. Any sign shop should be able to convert them to their file type. Not perfect but very close to original.

First "tack" coat shot


Painted and masks pulled


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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-14-2016 at 6:30pm
I like it! Fantastic Duane.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: December-14-2016 at 9:20pm
Thanks for the kind words!! Hope to flip it back onto it's feet soon. Hope the Reunion listings will start showing up so I can plan on attending some events. Duane

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: December-14-2016 at 10:08pm
That came out awesome.

Nice job



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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: crabman
Date Posted: December-16-2016 at 1:55pm
Awesome Job so far!

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https://youtube.com/shorts/D6xrs4xlDVY?si=uOaaduvSAlFcLOAU


Posted By: swilliams
Date Posted: December-16-2016 at 5:53pm
Awesome! How about doing a Martinique in Cincy?LOL..seriously that is very nice!


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-16-2016 at 11:33pm
Nice job Duane! Hope to see it in person someday

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Alex47
Date Posted: December-20-2016 at 6:15pm
WOW!

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5444&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1977 Ski Tique


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-02-2017 at 8:23pm
Well back on the hull again. Flipped it back on it's feet again. Prepped the deck and shot the gel coat. Hopefully that is the last of the gel to shoot. Ground out a lot of stress cracks and filled them in along with numerous screw holes that are no longer needed.   Give it a few days to cure out and then wet sand and buff. Appointment with the interior guy to lay the carpet in a week. Busy week in store.

Prepped and ready


Gel shot


I stripped the vinyl off the 3 scoops and they are in such good shape I a considering shooting a quick coat of gel on them instead of recovering. They could be used as is except the color might be off a bit.

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-07-2017 at 6:25pm
Sneak preview of what's been going on with the Mustang project. More to come after the sanding and final buff.

If I leave the scoop gelled then I will carry the stripe thru. Otherwise may cover it back with vinyl. (which is the same color as stripe)   Thoughts????


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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-07-2017 at 9:59pm
Hi Duane

How about solid blue gelled scoops front and rear?

I think that would look good, but then I'm not looking at it in person

Aren't there lotsa screw holes in those scoops? I don't remember..


Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: February-07-2017 at 10:32pm
I vote for the recover of the scoop

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'05 206 Limited
'88 BFN


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-08-2017 at 8:09am
I say leave it gelled with the stripe going through it.



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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: March-19-2017 at 7:47pm
Well 15 months from the time I pulled the engine till it sits back on the mounts today. Did not even take time to clean out my tools and mess before I took a pic. Lots of work yet ahead but light at the end of the tunnel now. Will post more as I clean up the mess and start buttoning it up. Wiring is all run and just a few wires to hook up on the engine. Wiring was a big concern but it went well. 100% rewired.   . Duane



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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-09-2017 at 10:46pm
Almost 16 months since she was in the water.   New stringers, gel coat, floors, no foam except underside of bow cap, new .060 engine with many mods.   Anyway made it to the lake today and lake conditions were terrible. White caps 3 feet high. Launched and finally found some decent water. Running an ACME 540 prop. Have a 5400 RPM rev limiter chip in the MSD box. Made a few passes to get a feel and then made several aggressive passes. I have a set of manually adjustable trim tabs that I will photo in the morning that were set flat, with no trim added.   Boat porpoised some at around 45 - 48 mph.   Not bad but noticeable. It easily drove thru them and at 5200 RPM was showing 56 MPH on first pass. Return pass was up to almost 60 MPH. Acceleration was unbelievable compared to the stock engine. Never did let the boat run on out since the engine has such low hours and the 5400 chip. Really don't want to exceed 5400 anyway.   I will put a little trim in it and try some more. I can see where more prop would help or just live with what I have and not push the envelope.
Now the bad:    Lost reverse somehow. Will trouble shoot that tomorrow and see where that leads. 1200 hours on the tranny so it may get a total rebuild.
Temps and pressures were right where I want them on the engine. More later,   Duane
FloTek heads must be doing their job!!


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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 12:21am
Way to go it's got to be a great feeling Duane. Now you know what they say "Pictures or it didn't happen"

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 3:51am
Nice to have some power on tap for when three or four friends all want to barefoot at once! 60 mph. Dang. Wait until she's broken in.

Reverse. Yeah. Time for some rebuilt action. Better now and DIY than mid-season. I'm really impressed with your craftsmanship, Duane.

How do any of you get rid of that bounce without risking planting the nose?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 5:59am


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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 11:10am
Looking forward to seeing and taking a ride in this boat at lakes James in July.


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 11:19am
Few more shots of the rebuild. Still have a floor panel to install along with the engine cover. Lot's of finish work to do and also the final buff and polish on the new gel and graphics. Now the first order of business is to figure out the tranny issue. Sounds like I will be rebuilding it. Might as well as everything else in the boat is new.









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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 11:24am
Carb is setting perfectly flat now. Milled the intake manifold as much as the casting would allow and then machined a wedge spacer to make it level. Quite a bit of wedge added to achieve getting it where I wanted it.







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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 11:39am
More Mustang 17 shots. Rear shot show the trim tabs and the 3 1/2" exhaust turn downs. They have flappers built into them also. Built them here at my shop.
ps. gathering parts for the new trailer also.










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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 11:44am
These are the manually adjustable tabs. Milled pockets in the hull so they sit flush when not deployed and will create no drag. They are attached at the front and you just loosen the wing nuts and move the rear down and relock. They are approx 6 inches square. May never use them but they are there to play with. Exhaust flapper is visible also.







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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 12:31pm
Sounds strong Duane, but how were you measuring speed? A stock 540 isn't going to overturn much, if any- it'll run darn close to 1:1 speed vs rpm. I can't fathom how you'd get 60 if you're only turning 5400.

Also, be very careful with those tabs- at higher rates of speed, keeping the nose high is an important safety concern... if it porpoises then you're in the safe zone. Forcing the nose down can cause very dangerous behavior.


Posted By: SWANY
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 12:34pm
Very impressive. My hats off to you


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 12:54pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Sounds strong Duane, but how were you measuring speed? A stock 540 isn't going to overturn much, if any- it'll run darn close to 1:1 speed vs rpm. I can't fathom how you'd get 60 if you're only turning 5400.


Used the AP on my phone. Strong winds so not sure how accurate because I didn't do back to back opposite direction runs Even yet it runs very good. Acceleration is awesome compared to the boat before rework. Prop bought used and the previous owner said he had it worked on and didn't like it so I bought it. The tranny is original and I should have rebuilt it while the boat was down. Lost reverse. Just trying to gather as much info as I can so I can tackle the rebuild. Any suggestions are appreciated. Duane

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 1:19pm
Bummer on the tranny. Bring a real GPS along next time, or download the Navionics app, that has proven to be accurate.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 1:30pm
Hi Duane

Most likely, your reverse clutch plate broke. There is only one in the transmission.and when it cracks, it spreads a little and the teeth no longer engage the ring gear and it's kinda spooky when you put it in reverse and nothing happens, no warning, no funny noises either.
Some were made of fiber and some were made of metal. I think the fiber ones break easier.

It could be adjustment or a spool valve issue also but chances are it's the clutch plate,

A Borg Warner manual is in the reference section here on CCF

You can find rebuild kits with a pretty wide range of prices.

Some of the kits have fiber forward clutch plates and some have sintered bronze

Some have a fiber reverse plate and some have metal.

By the way, don't listen to anything Pete says about transmissions, he thinks there's only one person in existence who can rebuild one and he isn't doing it anymore.

That outfit is run by somebody else now, it's Fantastic Finish Marine in Medina Ohio.

You should have no trouble rebuilding one knowing your capabilities.



Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 2:59pm
found this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B001IVPUR8/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

or should a guy go for this one with a new pump??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Velvet-Drive-Marine-70C-71C-72C-1017-1018-Transmission-Master-Kit-Stage-4-/261564903942?hash=item3ce67bb206:g:eW8AAOSwuWVWEvU6&vxp=mtr

Hate to not have the new parts in front of me when I tear it down, tend to forget too much in between.

There are others also that are on e-Bay.   Which ones are the good ones and which are not???

TimB,   yes to the good GPS for true readings. Not really too concerned cause it goes good enough to suit me, but real data is nice to have.

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 3:07pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Hi Duane
By the way, don't listen to anything Pete says about transmissions, he thinks there's only one person in existence who can rebuild one and he isn't doing it anymore.

Dropping a clutch pack in isn't a rebuild! Even you can do that.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 3:12pm
Here is another place but you'll have to do the homework as I have no experience with them or the parts http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/apps2/master/showparts.php?COM_NAME=71C,%2072C%20Direct%20Drive%20Illustrations&MODEL=9&IMAGE=104&ITEM_ID=138" rel="nofollow - ebasic

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 3:29pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Here is another place but you'll have to do the homework as I have no experience with them or the parts http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/apps2/master/showparts.php?COM_NAME=71C,%2072C%20Direct%20Drive%20Illustrations&MODEL=9&IMAGE=104&ITEM_ID=138" rel="nofollow - ebasic


I would bet these guys sell more velvet drive parts than just about anyone.. and certainly I would buy their kit before the sierra ones listed on your amazon link (i have bought more than a dozen kits from them).   The pump likely didn't cause your no reverse issue so I don't know that I would buy one just to have it... I wouldn't invest a lot of money into getting parts for it until after you have opened it up and know the failure mode as you may have broken something too expensive to fix.   The kits don't include the roller bearings either but they usually don't need to be replaced unless there has been water/debris/ or alignment issues so wait on those too.. Also be sure that you have shifted by hand at the transmission into reverse and found it still not to work before you pull it apart.

Its not rocket science - the service manual is in the reference section and assuming you have a decent press there you will be all set... if you end up fabricating any of the special tools you can sell them to me when your done - I use an ugly mish mash of stuff to press and it slows me down enough that I usually try to rebuild 3 at a time.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 3:37pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Here is another place but you'll have to do the homework as I have no experience with them or the parts http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/apps2/master/showparts.php?COM_NAME=71C,%2072C%20Direct%20Drive%20Illustrations&MODEL=9&IMAGE=104&ITEM_ID=138" rel="nofollow - ebasic


I've used a kit from ebasicpower like what Gary linked to.

Also used genuine Borg Warner stuff

Really saw no difference in how the transmission worked with genuine B/W or generic at least with stock HP levels

There are a whole bunch of generic kits for these things usually with steel or sintered bronze plates

Just me, but if the pump was working and the front seal wasn't leaking I think you're OK without a new pump.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 4:22pm
Hi Duane

Just went and looked at my kit in the garage, it's the same kit as Gary's link.

Alto 023901. made in the US of A

Steel and sintered bronze plates



Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 6:07pm
[/QUOTE] Dropping a clutch pack in isn't a rebuild! Even you can do that. [/QUOTE]

OK Pete, here's your chance to fill me in on what a rebuild consists of. I plan to pull the tranny and put it on the bench for an autopsy.

I appreciate all the help and assistance I can get from everyone..

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 7:09pm
Full rebuild-



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: April-10-2017 at 7:33pm
So true, Gary!!!!๐Ÿ˜‰



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