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Just Bought this H&M Mustang

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37415
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 8:39am


Topic: Just Bought this H&M Mustang
Posted By: jake613
Subject: Just Bought this H&M Mustang
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 1:05pm
I just bought this Mustang and couldn't be more excited.
I have always wanted a Holman Moody powered Mustang and finally bought one this week.

Good news is it appears to be mostly complete and original with 294 hours, Bad news is needs stringers, floors, and interior.

I need some recommendations on midwest based stringer repair shops, I really want the best work possible and cost not important. I have seen some of the fantastic work by members of the forum here that makes the boat better than when new and that is the kind of job im looking for.

Any recommendations greatly appreciated.

Some pics



Replies:
Posted By: juniorwoody
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 1:07pm
that is nice

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The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 2:02pm
Also would appreciate everyone's input on anything not original looking.

Want to get it as lose to original as possible.



Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 4:43pm
Welcome to the HM Mustang Club. Have you had it out on the water and if so, how does it go?

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'05 206 Limited
'88 BFN


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 5:11pm
Jake,
The Mustang looks pretty original to me. The idea of keeping a boat original is always a pleasure to hear. Keep the pictures coming. The only thing I spotted was the trailer painted brown!! You asked in your PM about someone to do the stringer job. I'm sorry but I can't help you with that. Have you considered doing iy yourself?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 5:11pm
Congrats. As to the best midwest shop it would be your garage. No one will do anything near to the work you desire than yourself. As to whats wrong possibly the distributor has been replaced,HM seemed to favor the flat caps maybe just the cap has been changed but I'm not sure a flat cap fits all distributors. Valve covers look like they have been changed too because they are missing the spotwelded on sparkplug wire guides. And the hard line from fuel pump to carb has been replaced with rubber. Other than those minor things you did good. Parts for the Jabsco raw water pump are getting hard to find so be gentle with it. How about some dash pics?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 6:00pm
I am confident in doing the mechanical work and repair but no good at glass work.
It strikes me as much an art and skill as a science. I cant even draw a straight line on a piece of paper, so forming and sanding a stringer and keeping the hull square would be WAY past my skill set.

I really want to make sure this one is done right and have no confidence in my ability to do the job.

This is the boat I have dreamed of owning since I was a teenager and I want to do everything possible to make sure it is done right. I am also on the heavier and tall side (6' 3" and 300#)and have serious concerns about causing damage o the hull during the process.


Hoping someone here can point me towards a reputable midwest located person or shop who can do the job right, price is secondary.


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 6:12pm
I don't think you'll have any luck. If you do you better do your home work first and get good references on their work,costs,materials and completion success. You have waited this long for the boat,go take a community college course on woodworking.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 6:26pm
Jake,
You mentioned you are confident in the mechanical work so to me, it sounds like you do have a skill level that can handle the stringer job. It's really not hard and as Gary says, just do some home work. There are some fantastic links in the FAQ thread in the maintenance section. Some of them by members who also questioned their own ability. Take some time and read through them. We're always around as well in case something comes up. We've also seen a couple instances were so called "pros" have made total messes and the member took over starting back on a bare hull.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 6:32pm
Vondy and Keegan come to mind and Kegan didn't even have a garage.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 8:52pm
Front loading bars are later era, but, I wouldn't let that bother me.

I would re-route the plug wires away from the carb and throttle cable.

Nice find !



Posted By: The Godfather
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 9:48pm
Nice looking ride. !!

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Jbear, said to me wow if it was'nt for this site we would never had met for this to happen....


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 11:17pm
Thanks, this is the boat I've wanted since I was a teenager!

I haven't been on the water yet lots of rotten wood on the floors and stringers are soft. I was able to get the engine turned over and started after running fresh gas to the tank and some cleanup work on the carb.


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 11:20pm
Dash pic.

I questioned the throttle control setup, most ive seen have the round wooden ball style.



Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 11:28pm
Your profile says Kentucky but not where. If you are west, just fyi, previous owner of my southwind had it all redone at Indy Covers in Indianapolis, could be maybe 4 hours ?depending where you are. Excellent work, can send pics on request



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1974 Southwind 18
1975 Century Mark II


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 11:51pm
Lexington, KY so I am willing to travel pretty much anywhere in OH, IN. IL. southern parts of those states would be closer. Cincy, Indy, Columbus all pretty close.are all an esy drive, Chicago are and Cleveland are doable but further.



Indy covers looks great for the trim work, nice work and fair prices.



Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 12:07am
Originally posted by jake613 jake613 wrote:

I questioned the throttle control setup, most ive seen have the round wooden ball style.
Jake,
I really can't see much in the picture. Is there a foot throttle on the foot board? Is there still the Morse control for the shift?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 12:33am
Jake: most would say tackle it yourself, but if you would rather have it done that is quite expensive but understandable, not everyone has the time, tools, patience, or talent to undertake such a project. I can't personally vouch for indy covers as this was done by the previous owner, but I will certainly vouch for the excellent quality of the work as I see it

Mine was not a complete stringer re-do, but was repaired as necessary per PO's request for what was necessary at the time. Interior was also completely redone and they did an awesome job. I have plenty of pics and all the original indy cover receipts I can forward if you'd like



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1974 Southwind 18
1975 Century Mark II


Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 8:59am
John,
You could reach out to Pat Crusse (www.crussenclassics.com) in Mooresville NC and inquire with him. While his speciality is classic woodies he also does some very nice glass work as well.
Not sure what his interest / schedule looks like but his work is fantastic.
Ok to tell him I referred you.

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'05 206 Limited
'88 BFN


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 9:20am
Nice boat! I concur, very close to original. I think al mentioned the crash pads from a slightly newer cc trailer (79+) but I wouldn't change it either. The pylon is slightly newer than the boat too (76+) but it's very close to the original '73 (just a larger diameter) so that wouldn't bother me much either. I am guessing the ladder was added, the curves look to have larger radiuses than the standalone ladders cc used... And it most likely would have been incorporated into the rear grab rail like my '73. Previous owner of mine found the same brown trailer paint.

Agree that your best chance of getting a quality stringer job is to do it yourself. It's not hard, just time consuming and labor intensive. If you're not in a rush, reasonably handy and willing/able to put in the time, it's well worth the effort. Many first timers here have turned out very impressive work. Read, read, read.

Welcome!


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 10:50am
I think brown is the original repaint color for Correct Craft trailers look at my diaries pictures--- Tim is that the right steering wheel ? TimBobs is what 2 years older and has the drilled wheel

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 11:02am
The trailer under my cousins Stang was repainted brown too, wth?

Yes, original wheel for a '73. 71-72 and some '73's got the wood grain wheel... Other 73's got the black rimmed wheel pictured (mine has the same).


Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 2:40pm
I would suggest leave the boat at JoeNY's shop near Alburn, NY. He has about seven boats ahead of yours but eventually he will get to it and he can do a composite (Cosa) for you that will be highly engineered.

Just kidding.

Like everyone else stated, to do it right, you will need to do it yourself. Use Douglas Fir and Epoxy or Composite and do not argue about materials.

JMO,

Donald

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1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens
2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S.
1968 Ski Nautique, Project.


Posted By: Fabcon
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 4:31pm
Very nice find, I really like the color.

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1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1984 Barefoot Nautique (Parting Out)


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 10:36pm
Sad news on the stringers I really hoped to find a reliable shop because I really have my doubts about being able to pull it off.

Ladder close ups


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 10:40pm
No foot throtle, teeleflex on the throttle.
pic of throttle


and another


Posted By: Hansel
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 11:33pm
Another CCFan in Lexington?!

Beautiful boat! Love the color. It reminds me (including the HM) of Donzis of the era.

If you need a hand on the boat or drinking a local brew let me know. I'm much much better at the latter rather than the former, FYI.


Posted By: kytom2
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 11:35pm
You can replace those stringers yourself. Plenty of people here more than willing to answer any and all questions. Plenty of documented pictorial threads to help guide you thru it.
I did mine 4 years ago, took me from Feb. thru Sept., Did I make a few mistakes sure I did. It is time consuming and dirty, but in the end it was worth it. Mine you could literally fall thru the floor, just ask Tim.
Just do some reading on here, look at the pics and take your time. Mine did not look like a skilled craftsman did it, like some on here ,but it looked better than the factory job.

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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: September-28-2015 at 1:06am
kytom's is solid and drives well. So what if it doesn't look like a 'skilled' guy did it...it is covered up by the floor anyhow. We have had some jobs on here that look like they were done by furniture builders.....but they all get covered up.

awesome find tho...gonna be cool when you get her done!



john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: September-28-2015 at 1:23am
Hansel View Drop Down
Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Today at 9:33pm
Another CCFan in Lexington?!

Beautiful boat! Love the color. It reminds me (including the HM) of Donzis of the era.

If you need a hand on the boat or drinking a local brew let me know. I'm much much better at the latter rather than the former, FYI




Lexington, You must have heard the screams of anger and frustration as my wife realized she had lost her garage spot all winter, to "Another Dam Boat"
Love to get together sometime, West Sixth or Country Boy, Why not say both!

Could sure use a hand at stringer cutting time and love to show you the boat and have a beer.in my garage.


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: September-28-2015 at 1:37am
Took a few more dash engine shots






Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: September-28-2015 at 1:43am
There was a guy on CCFAN in the last 12 months that owns a shop in Coastal South Carolina that does stinger work and boat restorations and repairs. Several of the members here had differences of opinions as to some of the modifications that he was doing to some older Correct Craft Boats which lead to a big discussion from him about doing what his customer had requested and how much time they were willing to pay for. Lets just say it was very educational. You may be able to find him via a search and others may remember his shop. If seems like he was working on a Barracuda and then was moving to a 85 ish 2001 ski Nautique. However, he is not in the Midwest. , but in the Southeast. .

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1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens
2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S.
1968 Ski Nautique, Project.


Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: September-28-2015 at 8:54am
Nautilus Restorations.com

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1974 Southwind 18
1975 Century Mark II


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-28-2015 at 9:02am
Jake,
I have seen some other CC's with the Teleflex helm throttle/shift so I'd say it's original to your Mustang. CC went through some tough times so it was common for them to use any component they could purchase at that time. I can't comment on the stern ladder/railing. Tim or someone else may be able to fill you in. Is the ladder stainless?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-28-2015 at 10:48am
Throttle/control is original, I have seen many of those (almost all were '73's). Reid has/had several.

I think Pete's guess on the ladder being stainless might be right. The rest of the rail is aluminum. Here is what my original ladder looks like.



Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: September-28-2015 at 10:53am
Nice looking boat. Great project to find.


Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: September-28-2015 at 12:41pm
Hey we are forgetting about Zach and N3 Boatworks in Indy. If you are serious about having someone else do the stringer work, I have seen some of Mark's work (he is their fiberglass guy), it is TOP NOTCH. It will be expensive though. Maybe you could save some money by doing the demo work before you deliver it up there. Would be worth a call to see what you can work out.

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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-28-2015 at 4:05pm
It's not Mark.

Jon Swaim of "Indy Marine & Auto Body" is the shop connected to their dealership and does most all of their stringer/glass/gel/paint work.


Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: September-28-2015 at 4:08pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

It's not Mark.

Jon Swaim of "Indy Marine & Auto Body" is the shop connected to their dealership and does most all of their stringer/glass/gel/paint work.


Yep got my names crossed...

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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: September-28-2015 at 5:42pm
John Swaim redid my boat, it looks new, He is outstanding!


Posted By: randall
Date Posted: September-28-2015 at 6:03pm
Love me some orange.    Looks like the mustang in the 73 brochure.

If I can ever be of reference to you, don't hesitate to PM me.



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1973 CC Mustang


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: October-03-2015 at 3:45pm
Originally posted by randall randall wrote:

Love me some orange.    Looks like the mustang in the 73 brochure.

If I can ever be of reference to you, don't hesitate to PM me.



Awesome CC you have there, and very original.

Thanks, I'm starting dis-assembly this weekend, Bagging and tagging and marking with masking tape. I figure if the stingers turn out to be to much for me having the hull prepped will save time and money.





Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 1:01am
I have read through many threads on stringer replacement but haven't seen much information on what measurements to make. I don't want to get to far along taking things out. I am especially concerned about motor mounts and the angle of the engine and transmission. Any input would be welcomed, and sorry if this has been covered previously.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 9:43am
There are 2 important things to get right on a stringer/floor job... First and foremost is engine position. Height of stringers in the engine area is critical, less so in other areas. Also distance from transom. Take a lot of measurements from fixed reference points- through hull fittings that won't change, pylon mount, outside transom, etc.   The 2nd (and less important thing) is to get the floor height right, as it will change seat/interior position if it ends up different. It's not uncommon to leave a small ledge as a reference point upon disassembly which can be removed once the stringers are in (before the floor install).


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 10:11am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

It's not uncommon to leave a small ledge as a reference point upon disassembly which can be removed once the stringers are in (before the floor install).

Dave
Just so you follow what Tim is talking about, the ledge is where the old floor meets the hull sides. As well as taking measurements from the hull, I also like to lay a board across the gunnels and measure down.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 10:41am
I was also able to save the remnants of my old stringers to lay over as a template and as for the hull when i cut the stringers off there were lines left to sort of profile the new stringers .

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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 1:35pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

It's not uncommon to leave a small ledge as a reference point upon disassembly which can be removed once the stringers are in (before the floor install).

Dave
Just so you follow what Tim is talking about, the ledge is where the old floor meets the hull sides. As well as taking measurements from the hull, I also like to lay a board across the gunnels and measure down.


Great suggestion on the board over the gunnels method.

Thanks


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 1:40pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

There are 2 important things to get right on a stringer/floor job... First and foremost is engine position. Height of stringers in the engine area is critical, less so in other areas. Also distance from transom. Take a lot of measurements from fixed reference points- through hull fittings that won't change, pylon mount, outside transom, etc.   The 2nd (and less important thing) is to get the floor height right, as it will change seat/interior position if it ends up different. It's not uncommon to leave a small ledge as a reference point upon disassembly which can be removed once the stringers are in (before the floor install).


Great help,thanks! I am not sure I understand engine position as to height and angle.

Forward, aft and port starboard seems fairly straightforward to measure. not sure on how measure angle.


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 1:54pm
I would do what Pete suggested & place a (straight) 2x4 over the gunnels. Then measure directly down to the engine mounts, both L & R. Do this for both front & rear. Then 4 months later remember where you put that little slip of paper with that data!

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 2:36pm
Originally posted by jake613 jake613 wrote:

   not sure on how measure angle.


Just like framing a house. Go to Lowes or Home Depot and pick up a Carpenter Square. It will look like a funky triangle, but set at 90 degrees.   You can also take out your middle school protractor. Dust it off first.

You really need to dig up Keegan's Thread from about four years ago when he did a Red and White Skier in his driveway. He works (IT Web-Site) for a Harley Dealer in Asheboro, NC and he would be a good guy to pick up the phone and talk to. He did a real nice job, but has not been around much since he works a lot of weekends and does not get to boat much. I think he is in the witness protection program since he dropped off the map.    

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1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens
2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S.
1968 Ski Nautique, Project.


Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 7:28pm
a smart phone camera and someone measure everything you can with a tape and some blue tape reference marks you can revert to the phone all through the project

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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 9:21pm
I used to think that was a good idea until I jumped in at Quinners,lost quite a bit of stuff

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 9:57pm
Originally posted by jake613 jake613 wrote:



Great help,thanks! I am not sure I understand engine position as to height and angle.

Forward, aft and port starboard seems fairly straightforward to measure. not sure on how measure angle.

I re-read what I wrote and confirmed I didn't mention angle?

If you get the height of the stringers correct where the engine sits, and put it back in the same place, then you will be close enough to align it. Engine angle is a function of stringer height and mount design/location. Don't worry about it.


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 10:06pm
Originally posted by Donald80SN Donald80SN wrote:

Originally posted by jake613 jake613 wrote:

   not sure on how measure angle.


Just like framing a house. Go to Lowes or Home Depot and pick up a Carpenter Square. It will look like a funky triangle, but set at 90 degrees.   You can also take out your middle school protractor. Dust it off first.

You really need to dig up Keegan's Thread from about four years ago when he did a Red and White Skier in his driveway. He works (IT Web-Site) for a Harley Dealer in Asheboro, NC and he would be a good guy to pick up the phone and talk to. He did a real nice job, but has not been around much since he works a lot of weekends and does not get to boat much. I think he is in the witness protection program since he dropped off the map.    


Great reference on that thread, I hadnt read it yet, lots of good information there.
Still confused on refernce points for engine angle, used home depot protractor like device to measure transom and stringer angles but unsure how to determine the angle on engine mounts. Ill snap a picture of my mounts, they have a triangle shaped wooden spacer aft and mount to the stringers forward.


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 10:14pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by jake613 jake613 wrote:



Great help,thanks! I am not sure I understand engine position as to height and angle.

Forward, aft and port starboard seems fairly straightforward to measure. not sure on how measure angle.

I re-read what I wrote and confirmed I didn't mention angle?

If you get the height of the stringers correct where the engine sits, and put it back in the same place, then you will be close enough to align it. Engine angle is a function of stringer height and mount design/location. Don't worry about it.


Ok got it, If the position is exact only one angle will work.

While taking pictures I tightened all the engine mount bolts and they all seemed to hold. There is no way I should get my hopes up on stringer condition.


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 10:21pm
Also have an unexplanied hole towards the front of the engine and roughly centered in the hull.



Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 10:36pm
The drain plug? How familiar did you say you are you with these boats?


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 11:00pm
Not very, Thanks

I'm up to speed on mechanicals but lots to learn on CC particulars.

I do apreciate all the help though, I wouldnt have even considered this project without all the good information and good people here.


Posted By: JDD33
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 11:10pm
The area around your mount doesn't show any signs of rust streaking and I don't see any areas of de laminating fiberglass. Have you tapped and poked around both stringers?
Maybe pull out a couple lag bolts from each side and see how they look/feel... Who knows till ya look!
Did the previous owner tell you it needed stringers?

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Old school goin back to school!


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: October-04-2015 at 11:16pm
These little bad boys can be quite helpful at setting the engine angle. Pretty cheap too. $10 at your local home depot.







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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-05-2015 at 12:35am
I have seen worse and most seem to have trouble around the pylon like yours.The rest looks pretty good. Get yourself a powerwasher,clean her up try it out and see what you have.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: October-05-2015 at 1:43am
I am allowimg myself to get slightly hopeful here. Pylon and floors are shot and coming out. Ill start testing the stringers tomorow and see what things look like. maybe drill a few test spots.
Last pic of the day



Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: October-05-2015 at 10:43am
I'm a bit late to this party but welcome to the site John and congrats on the 'new' and soon to be restored Mustang. I had seen this boat on a E-bay thread that a member posted and was seriously considering adding it to the Morfleet so that way each daughter would have a HM Mustang....One orange and One Sublime Green.
Seeing as how it was left outside in the manner that it was I doubt that you will get lucky enough to avoid stinger replacement but hey ...you don't know till you dig into it and get it cleaned up to see what you got. Dirt can be your friend as it can indicate cracks in your glass but also cover them up. Give it a hard looksee before you pressure wash it to see what you have.

Doing an inspection on my 72 I found the stringers and floor to be solid but will have to do a web replacement just in front of the battery box. It's rotten as the glass is disbanding from it and I could easily push a screw driver thru it if I tried with little effort.. I'll be sure to document it in TimBobs/Foots Mustang thread.

Glad you found us, glad to hear you're restoring it back to orginal. You'll have a head turner for sure when you get finished and after the first two WOW's you'll be glad you did. Look forward to watching this thread as you go. You came to right place for all your CC needs.!

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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"


Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: December-12-2015 at 1:53am
Finally got this project moving a little.

Got the boat off the trailer and sent the trailer to be sand blasted and painted, new bunks, bearings all new crash pad hardware and carpet.











Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: December-12-2015 at 1:59am
A couple more










Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-12-2015 at 6:00am
John,
The trailer looks great. It will even look better with a restored orange Mustang sitting on it! Are you planning on new tires and rims?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: December-12-2015 at 7:05pm
The new tires are on it.

The lighting just doesnt show them well, I was trying to get close to an original look and went with these rims http://www.etrailer.com/p-AM20242.html" rel="nofollow - Rims

http://www.etrailer.com/p-TTWTRTM1758013C.html" rel="nofollow - Tires

The whole package was about $170 shipped


A better shot of the tiresand rim setup




Note the expensive pile of douglas fir on the shop floor for phase 2


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-12-2015 at 8:19pm


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-21-2015 at 4:41am
I like what I'm seeing here.

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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!



Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-21-2015 at 4:00pm
I like what I'm seeing here.

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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!



Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-24-2015 at 7:08pm
Beautiful boat! I just took a little time to look closely at your engine and noticed some differences between it and the two I have. The most notable are yours has a circ pump, your alternator is mounted on the port side, your water inlet is very different from mine, the absence of a block off plate for the circ pump requires a different engine lifting loop, and both of my engines have a 2 belt sheave on the balancer, but only one is used and the alternator has a single belt sheave. Was this a 2V or 4V engine. I would like to see some more photos including the H/M tag located on the bell housing that includes the CR. According to my H/M book they ordered the 302s from Ford with 351 heads at some point after mine were made. One of the benefits of the H/M was it's lighter weight over the standard 289/302. The aluminum bell housing, no circ pump, the very small and light Jabsco raw water pump, and aluminum exhaust manifolds saved something around 75#. I have seen photos of H/M 351s and they look more like yours with a circ pump. The engine design could have changed sometime between the 69/70 boats and yours, or the engine could have been replaced at some time, I really dont know. Maybe someone with more knowledge will chime in. The 260/ 289/302 Interceptor also had aluminum manifolds IIRC. You can also save about 30# by using a lithium ion battery over an optima (at significant cost) too. When dry the Mustang is already a light boat. Here are a few photos of my 4V engine for reference.

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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!



Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-26-2015 at 2:49pm
I apologize. I was unaware that H/M changed the design of their 302 sometime after 1970. I hadn't seen one before. A case of foot in the mouth. Sorry.

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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!



Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: December-26-2015 at 2:49pm
Best pictures I have for now of the H/M data plate


Its a 4V and the hour meter shows 297 hours but anything could have been done over the years. Not sure what you mean about the raw water pump?

Thanks for the thumbs up, I have wanted a H/M powered CC since I ws a teen and the Orange 1970s color put me over the edge.

I have the stringers out and pulled about 200# of water soaked flotation foam out of the hull (just like everyone else who does one of these) over the last few days. Ill try an post some pics later this weekend of the engine and bell housing.



Posted By: jake613
Date Posted: December-26-2015 at 2:51pm
So should this engine have the 351 heads?


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-26-2015 at 3:02pm
Yes, most likely 351w heads- which isn't necessarily a good thing. As I believe ReidP has pointed out previously, the HM's got a few of the changes JohnB noted above around '72- circ pump being the most obvious. I believe they started getting standard 351w heads at that time, as did all other marine/HO 302's of the time from other companies (Waukesha/Palmer/Conq-Crusader/etc). This likely dropped the compression ratio down into the 9's or high 8's, and you'll notice HM no longer printed the CR on the data plate. The official hp rating stayed at 235hp, but I wouldn't be surprised if its closer to the more common 215-220hp that the other marinizers were rated at.

FYI, I may be interested in those old trailer wheels if you'd be willing to part with them.


Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: December-26-2015 at 11:42pm
That ladder looks to be off a 60's century resorter. If it is it should be chromed brass. If you plan on removing it I would be interested


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-22-2016 at 7:56pm
Any update?



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