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Winterizing

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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37413
Printed Date: April-29-2024 at 6:27am


Topic: Winterizing
Posted By: forvicjr
Subject: Winterizing
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 11:36am
Well its a sad day today. Going out in a few min to start the process. I have new oil and filter, plugs, rv antifreeze, some fuel stabilizer, 3/4 tank of fuel and fogging spray. Also have a new pump impeller to install as mine is toast. Then its off to the storage till spring....

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“Tact is the ability to step on a man's toes without messing up the shine on his shoes.” ― Harry S. Truman



Replies:
Posted By: Blamey
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 1:28pm
I have a question, that's not clear from what I have been reading about winterizing.

If I run anti-freeze through the engine, should I drain all the water first. If not, are there items that should be drained of water?



Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 1:35pm
Winterizing is good to do, because it shows you care for the boat. But - it is a sad thing to do. Good bye, summer.

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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow


Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 1:39pm
Originally posted by Blamey Blamey wrote:

I have a question, that's not clear from what I have been reading about winterizing.

If I run anti-freeze through the engine, should I drain all the water first. If not, are there items that should be drained of water?



No, just put in the anti-freeze (if you are using the bucket method). No pre-draining required. You will be replacing water with anti-freeze solution everywhere. Then complete your winterization.

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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow


Posted By: tnplicky
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 1:53pm
forvicjr:   Why not wait until spring to replace the impeller?   That way the vanes on your new impeller won't potentially take a set during the winter months of storage. It probably doesn't make a lot of difference with a new impeller, but I always wait until spring to replace mine, and if I am re-using the same impeller the next season, I remove it from the raw water pump housing for the same reason.

Blamey: Every boat can be a little different, but on a typical engine there will be a drain plug on either side of the block, on the bottom of the raw water pump (RWP) elbow, and on the back of the exhaust manifolds. If you have a water strainer, you should empty the water from that as well. I usually disconnect the water line from the transmission cooler to the RWP since that is a low spot and doesn't drain.

If you winterize using the bucket method, you don't necessarily need to pre-drain, but I personally would run the engine with water until it is up to temp to ensure the t-stat is open before filling the bucket with marine/RV anti-freeze.


Posted By: forvicjr
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 2:12pm
I just have pulled the pump. Ill keep the pump out of the boat and install in the spring. Im pulling the manifolds too. Going with new gaskets. Im a tech for toyota and most of my tools are there. Ill carry the pump and manifolds to work and get them ready and reinstall in the spring.

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“Tact is the ability to step on a man's toes without messing up the shine on his shoes.” ― Harry S. Truman


Posted By: Airfooter
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 3:07pm
Originally posted by KRoundy KRoundy wrote:

[QUOTE=Blamey] I have a question, that's not clear from what I have been reading about winterizing.

If I run anti-freeze through the engine, should I drain all the water first. If not, are there items that should be drained of water?



No, just put in the anti-freeze (if you are using the bucket method). No pre-draining required. You will be replacing water with anti-freeze solution everywhere. Then complete your winterization.[/QUOTE

I feel that it depends on the climate that you live in as well. If there's potential to see temps in the teens or fall below zero for days or weeks on end, there's no way that I would not attempt to drain all of the water first especially if you're using -50 degree antifreeze that has a freeze point that's in the low teens above zero UNdiluted (meaning that what's left in the engine or components is not mixed with any residual water). I personally drain all of the water, tell my wife that we're not going to be able to go out to eat for a week, and then spend $45 on 3 gallons of Starbrite -200 antifreeze. I then dilute and mix the -200 antifreeze 2 parts solution to 1 part water for a -120 burst protection and a -80 freeze protection, and run 4.5 gallons through the engine and other components using the bucket method. I sleep really well during the winter months when the arctic waves roll through.     

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1992 Nautique Excel


Posted By: forvicjr
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 3:14pm
Im draining and just filling the block. Im removing the manifolds as i type. They need riser gaskets and the drain plugs are frozen up tight. The manifolds and raw water pump will be cozy at my work getting fixed. Wont install till spring unless im super fast on these repairs. If thats the case ill tie wrap the impeller to my boat keys as a reminder. Lol

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“Tact is the ability to step on a man's toes without messing up the shine on his shoes.” ― Harry S. Truman


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 3:52pm
DO NOT add antifreeze without draining first!!! The RV is not meant to be diluted. There is NO guarantee that the antifreeze will push all the water out. Per the PCM manual (in the reference section), drain and pour in. It's easier that pumping!! All that I have ever used on any engine is a gallon. It will settle in the low spots.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: forvicjr
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 4:06pm
Pete I one uped ya. I filled with two gallons after draining then cracked the drains untill I seen the pink rv antifreeze come out. Lol thanks though... really appreciate it.

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“Tact is the ability to step on a man's toes without messing up the shine on his shoes.” ― Harry S. Truman


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 5:34pm
I did the Mustang yesterday. I drained the block and manifolds and using the bucket method ran 2 gallons in. I then drained it again and got all but 1/2 gallon back. The 95 all I do is drain the block,manifolds,cooler,and strainer,blow out the heater and v drive with air then fill with antifreeze and drain the block and manifolds again.Raw water pump comes off too.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: skiermanbrad
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 8:33pm
You guys that use RV antifreeze, do you mean RV Waterline antifreeze?


Posted By: forvicjr
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 9:28pm
Originally posted by skiermanbrad skiermanbrad wrote:

You guys that use RV antifreeze, do you mean RV Waterline antifreeze?


Yes. You can get it from any parts chain. Ive seen different brands and colors. Some is pink,purpleand blue. Its a safe antifreeze for camper plumbing,hot tubs pools and the forclosed homes often get it too. Its safe to drop in in spring and just fire your boat and go. No disposal.

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“Tact is the ability to step on a man's toes without messing up the shine on his shoes.” ― Harry S. Truman


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-26-2015 at 9:44pm
Originally posted by skiermanbrad skiermanbrad wrote:

You guys that use RV antifreeze, do you mean RV Waterline antifreeze?

Reading from the label on the gallon I currently have, it says:

RV ANTIFREEZE

Getting technical, it's propylene glycol.



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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Jeff N
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 10:55am
If you are storing in a cold climate, why take the chance? Drain everything and put straight RV antifreeze back in. That way in January when the annual cold snap arrives, you're not worried about what you might find in the Spring.

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Jeff N
05 - 206
89 - 2001


Posted By: forvicjr
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 11:06am
Originally posted by Jeff N Jeff N wrote:

If you are storing in a cold climate, why take the chance? Drain everything and put straight RV antifreeze back in. That way in January when the annual cold snap arrives, you're not worried about what you might find in the Spring.


Umm. Not following. From my understanding thats what everyones doing.

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“Tact is the ability to step on a man's toes without messing up the shine on his shoes.” ― Harry S. Truman


Posted By: skiermanbrad
Date Posted: September-27-2015 at 9:27pm
OK. RV antifreeze it is. I live in Texas, so In late November when I put my boat up for the winter (December-February) that's what I'll use.


Posted By: Strega51
Date Posted: October-05-2015 at 12:35am
Either way don't leave the impeller in there for the winter. What is the point.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-05-2015 at 12:55am
Originally posted by Strega51 Strega51 wrote:

Either way don't leave the impeller in there for the winter. What is the point.

Dave,
It sounds like you believe the BS about leaving a impeller in for lay up creates flat spots that harm the performance of the RWP. I have NEVER removed an impeller on ANY boat for lay up and have NEVER had a problem. Also I have gone years without changing an impeller.

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-05-2015 at 7:47am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

No winter removal of impeller.
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

I've made several comments regarding the practice of frequent impeller change being unneeded. I'm on my 29th year of owning my 1964 with the 312. I just opened up the pump to take a look at the impellers after at least 25 years. I really wouldn't have bothered since I had no cooling problems but the bottoms of the hoses at the pump where getting real bad. (soft/gooey from the RV antifreeze) No broken blades, some wear on the tips, some "set" on the blades but no set at the cam from winter storage and some blade warpage.











The bottom line is running them dry is the killer and the marina's are spreading BS all over.


Normal or proof?


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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Strega51
Date Posted: October-05-2015 at 10:38am
I think it's a good idea to inspect every year. Changing every year is up to you. I think wether you change it or not I just think it's a good idea to leave it out for the winter. JMO.


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: October-05-2015 at 10:50am
I usually run my impellers backwards during winterization by hand with the hoses removed to get excess water out of the veins.

I leave the impeller backwards in the housing all winter then rotate by hand in the correct direction before re installing the belts.

This method always nets me 300+ hours on impellers.

My service indicator is if the boat gets a little warmer than normal at idle after a barefoot run. Then I know the impeller is getting a little mushy and needs to be replaced.

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Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: October-09-2015 at 6:07pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Strega51 Strega51 wrote:

Either way don't leave the impeller in there for the winter. What is the point.

Dave,
It sounds like you believe the BS about leaving a impeller in for lay up creates flat spots that harm the performance of the RWP. I have NEVER removed an impeller on ANY boat for lay up and have NEVER had a problem. Also I have gone years without changing an impeller.


Pete, if you leave the impeller in and do the drain and fill with antifreeze method, do you just drop it in and go in the spring, or do you need to do anything to lubricate the impeller? Im guessing the antifreeze level keeps the impeller submerged...so it doesn't get dried out?

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99 Ski Nautique GT40


Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: October-09-2015 at 6:22pm
So Pete, now that you've got the 25 year old impeller out, you gonna put new in or are you shooting for 50?

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1974 Southwind 18
1975 Century Mark II


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-09-2015 at 6:27pm
Originally posted by Cumby Cumby wrote:

Pete, if you leave the impeller in and do the drain and fill with antifreeze method, do you just drop it in and go in the spring, or do you need to do anything to lubricate the impeller? Im guessing the antifreeze level keeps the impeller submerged...so it doesn't get dried out?

Glen,
The antifreeze that ends up in the pump lubricates the impeller in spring. Yes, it's just connect the battery and turn the key. I do like to squirt some gas down the carb. BTW, I've mentioned it before that I leave my batteries in the boat but just disconnected.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: October-09-2015 at 7:22pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Cumby Cumby wrote:

Pete, if you leave the impeller in and do the drain and fill with antifreeze method, do you just drop it in and go in the spring, or do you need to do anything to lubricate the impeller? Im guessing the antifreeze level keeps the impeller submerged...so it doesn't get dried out?

BTW, I've mentioned it before that I leave my batteries in the boat but just disconnected.


Really? No trickle charge over the winter?

Hey, ive read some people drive around with the boat on the trailer after they fill with antifreeze. Do you think that is necessary, or OK to just drop the bow some, drain and fill?

Thanks

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99 Ski Nautique GT40


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-09-2015 at 8:42pm
Just depends how anal you are. I live on a hill & got the bow down hill - got an extra quart of water out.   

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-09-2015 at 9:01pm
Originally posted by Cumby Cumby wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


BTW, I've mentioned it before that I leave my batteries in the boat but just disconnected.
Really? No trickle charge over the winter
Thanks

Today's batteries in good charged condition will not self discharge to a point were they won't crank come spring. I've only had to hook up the charger once and that was after the boat was stored two winters and a summer and it only took a several minutes on the charger.
Be careful with a "trickle" charger. Some will over charge a battery. If you do want to use one, use a battery "maintainer".

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-09-2015 at 9:09pm
Originally posted by Cumby Cumby wrote:

Hey, ive read some people drive around with the boat on the trailer after they fill with antifreeze. Do you think that is necessary, or OK to just drop the bow some, drain and fill?
Thanks

There sure are anal people out there that go way over what's needed! If fully drained, there's no water so there's no need to try and mix it up. Lowering the bow isn't a bad idea since the starboard block drain is forward in the block but, as Chris mentions, it does depend on the angle the boat is sitting on. I lower the bow if it's on a trailer but never if it's hanging in the boat house. Don't forget there is still the drain only method. I did it for years and now just throw in almost a gallon.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-10-2015 at 12:00am
Pete now you got me thinking.....I was taught (maybe not the right way) to prefill the strainer basket with antifreeze and start her up. While running, pour 2 more gallons in the strainer basket and than fog the carb on the last gallon. Of course I drain the block, manifolds and elbow prior to the antifreeze. Is that over kill? Thanks

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Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-10-2015 at 12:13am
Kostas,
Some try to fill the block and in my opinion that's just a waste of antifreeze. Think about the drain only method that has been used for years, still is and works. If the engine is drained, the addition of say a gallon is simply an added safety precaution just in case there's a small pocket of water remaining.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: October-10-2015 at 12:24am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Kostas,
Some try to fill the block and in my opinion that's just a waste of antifreeze. Think about the drain only method that has been used for years, still is and works. If the engine is drained, the addition of say a gallon is simply an added safety precaution just in case there's a small pocket of water remaining.


Thanks Pete! I would guess my father-in-law did it this way to avoid draining hoses. Going to review the manual!

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Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: October-10-2015 at 9:06am
I fill my engine with Jell-O shots so it's ready in spring.

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1999 Ski Nautique 196


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-10-2015 at 9:13am
Originally posted by Frankenotter Frankenotter wrote:

I fill my engine with Jell-O shots so it's ready in spring.

Chris,
Make sure there's enough vodka to bring the burst point down to -50 just in case there's some water still in the engine. What flavor do you prefer?   

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54 Atom

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: wawasee
Date Posted: October-15-2015 at 7:05pm
I am new here and recently purchased 95 Sport Nautique. We always had a mechanic winterize our previous Nautiques, however, I am wondering if this method of winterization is good or bad. Looking to do this myself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qb9IdS-Z3DE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qb9IdS-Z3DE" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qb9IdS-Z3DE

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95 Sport Nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-15-2015 at 8:28pm
Originally posted by wawasee wawasee wrote:

I am new here and recently purchased 95 Sport Nautique. We always had a mechanic winterize our previous Nautiques, however, I am wondering if this method of winterization is good or bad. Looking to do this myself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qb9IdS-Z3DE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qb9IdS-Z3DE" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qb9IdS-Z3DE

John,
Well, the method may work but, he didn't drain the block first!! Do you want to take a chance that there isn't any water still in the engine? I sure would not. Do understand that RV antifreeze is NOT meant to be diluted!! Did you read this thread? Have you looked at your owners manual?

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: wawasee
Date Posted: October-15-2015 at 10:45pm
Thanks for your feedback! Yes, I read the thread and the owners manual. I just saw that video and thought I would see what members opinions are on it. It seemed like the guy in the video was cutting corners.

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95 Sport Nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-15-2015 at 10:55pm
John,
Thanks for the interest in the winterizing methods. It sounds like you have done your research so good luck with your own winterizing. If anything does come up, we're here. I sure hope people don't follow that youtube vid since I sure don't like the fact that he didn't make a point of draining first. .

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<



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