Tired Interceptor - Block Cracks Everywhere!
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35904
Printed Date: April-27-2024 at 5:06pm
Topic: Tired Interceptor - Block Cracks Everywhere!
Posted By: Glassdog
Subject: Tired Interceptor - Block Cracks Everywhere!
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 7:29pm
Hi All! Pete if your viewing put on your engineer hat my engineer father isn't available for comment  I received my 170 cu. in inline 6 Interceptor back from the machine shop late this afternoon with slightly hair raising news. For those of you who didn't follow the posting I had on general questions regarding drive i.d. I had my block out to be hot tanked. I was aware of one crack in the outer water jacket. I didn't get to bummed about that I was more worried the crank wouldn't polish out. Anyhow, my worst or most worst fears have now been realized. I got 3 more cracks to contend with! see pics below. So, I am mulling several options. (1.) continue to repair the block - lock and stitch or weld (2.) get maybe a 200 cu. in inline 6 and swap my maranization kit ( all aluminum interceptor parts) and drive - if possible. (3.) re-power completely. So my question is this. Anyone on the forum know anyone who has gone to the lock and stitch repair method? If so, to what degree. I have seen repaired industrial items a couple of times over the years repaired using that technique, unfortunately I don't know anyone who has had it done. I was curious about the longevity of the repairs. The machinist who checked the block for me told me that it's a really common method on heavy trucks. My reply those blocks are much more robust - so I kind of am curious. I do have access to a facility that will weld it - sand mound and bake oven. Im concerned my costs to save this engine are going to override the value of it. My order of restorations is way out of wack now I wanted to be glassing by now.    
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 7:42pm
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Christopher, I feel there are just too many cracks to try to fix. Did the machine shop have any comments? I sure like the idea of finding a 200 but, did they get the 200 from boring or stroking? I'm not that familiar with the engine. The 200 sure is better than a repower!    Dog bone stitching is a excellent method of crack repair but, in my opinion not for something that goes through heat cycles. Just a suggestion, but keep your posts in the same thread so we can follow better. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 8:01pm
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That is crazy, I had never heard of the lock and stitch repair method, very interesting. I wonder how they hold up, especially in an application like the marine world where the engines are under pretty heavy load. I know welding cracked heads in the Outboard racing world is VERY common. Very different materials though, those blocks are all Aluminum. But load and use is probably even worse then what we put our engines through, some of those guys are turning those things over 10k revs and leaned way out often times literally 10 or 20 degrees farenheit away from a complete melt down ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 8:03pm
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Oh for those who also have not seen how this works, here is a video (long but if you skip through it you will get the idea). BTW, I want one of those pneumatic tap tools! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 8:10pm
| I'm not familiar with the 170 Interceptor. Is it a Ford block, same as in the Early Ford Broncos? I just threw a presumed good 170 block away. Cruise the Early Bronco forums, you should be able to find a block there for next to nothing. |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 9:15pm
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I first saw it years ago when I was still working as a machinist / millwright. Saw some pretty extreme applications it was used for but have never known anyone in an auto or marine application. I'm kind of like Pete my curiously centered on how it handles heating / cooling cycles. And although I haven't had direct experience some of the information I've dug since acquired this boat referred to the inline interceptor as "hot head six" which suggests to me there's quite a swing during operation. Saw a gearbox on an industrial screener all but split in half lock and stitched back together and run! Pretty abusive application huge internal counter weights, more stress than I thought a shoe box full of studs would close up. |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 9:22pm
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Supposedly the block was used in comets , Falcons, and I think fairlanes and early rancheros. IDK about Broncos. I think possibly a mustang or two. Some of the info on the progression of the Ford sixes says basically the 144-200 cu. in. Are all the same just that the 170 got stroked and then the 200 got a bigger log intake etc. and was also further stroked then finally the 250 got crossflow and another 1.5" or so in block height to get to 250 cu. in. So yes, I possibly a few options. Oh and the 200 up went to 7 main bearings from 4 so that peeks my interest. Don't mind worki'n just comes down to investment now. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 9:32pm
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Get ahold of 62wood, even though a Chevy guy Steve knows more about those 6's than he would like to admit ! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 9:48pm
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=5046" rel="nofollow - Steve (62wood) ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Gary S wrote:Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 10:14pm
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The 200 is probably too tall for your motor box. This web site has quite a bit of info. http://www.fordsix.com/" rel="nofollow - http://www.fordsix.com/ |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 10:38pm
| That's classic inlines forum site, been through there. 200 cu. same block as 144 and 170. Same footprint. 250-300 would require dog house mods. Thanks for the interest going to walk a few scrap yards before I take action. |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: April-28-2015 at 10:47pm
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Thanks guys for your interest and input! Restoration is not for the faint of heart!! |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-29-2015 at 12:10am
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I seem to remember Steve saying 200 is as big as you can go and have the Interceptor parts fit,the other engines are different in some way. I remember back in the day my Dad had a '66 Mustang with a 200 6 with a chrome valve cover and decal on the air cleaner declaring "Sprint" all backed up with a 3 speed and what seemed like a 308 gear ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: April-29-2015 at 8:03am
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I think you're correct about that Gary. I haven't gone through it yet. But like any good auto repair / machine shop they have a junkyard! and my buddy told me they had a few 200's rolling around in it some where. He claimed he thought it was the same block ( just more main bearings) So I'm going to take a walk through and see what they look like personally my interceptor was the smallest ford inline I had seen everything else had a 300. I'm going to check around. I did know where there was a donor 170 straight out of a comet and it ran. They were building the car up for the strip. Hopefully it didn't get recycled. |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: May-02-2015 at 1:28am
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A Ford six banger? Why would anyone put money into one of those loosers? Actually, I had to learn more than I ever really wanted to know about the lowly six. My 64 has the Interceptor 100 (hp) for power (or lack there of.. )When I bought my 64 , it ran ok, but never felt it was running to its potential, but hey it was a 6 banger(and a Ford ;) . The head appeared to have a couple of visible cracks. After doing some checking with the Hi-Po Ford six forum, I found out the head was a 73 dated head, probably off of a 200. Problem was, these heads have larger combustion chambers. Also, the 170 originally had a steel shim head gasket. When the PO replaced the head , they installed a FelPro gasket, which is thicker than the original head gasket.... One of the guys estimated the engine was running somewhere in the 7 to 7.5 compression ratio. Thanks to the help of a couple of guys from that forum, I installed a 200 head from a late 70's Monarch. This gives you larger / hardened valves and intake runner. (which was another issue I later ran into) I had the head milled (I think around .040) and installed all new valves and springs. Thankfully, I was able to keep the original 170 block... Now, onto what little I know about the 200 block. I bought an Intereptor FWF I/O six banger motor a few years ago from an estate. I was simply told the motor was from a Mustang. (car) When I tore the engine apart, I discovered the oil pan had been ground on next to the mounting flange. I think this motor had replaced a 170 and the reliefs were cut into the pan to clear the larger crank journal throw. I never got any farther into checking the compatibility of the 170 to 200 swap. But, since they share the same oil pan, you would also want to check on the mating of the tranny to the "front" of the 200. The Ford boys really couldnt help me much with this potential issue. From what I remember, the 300 wont even begin to work. ohhh, back to the larger intake runner of my 200 head. When I went to install the Carter YH carb, I had another unexpected surprise..... using the original Interceptor adapter elbow, the carb bowl hit the top of the intake runner. This led to making a custom stainless steel carb adapter.... (whch led to polishing the exhaust mani, chroming the original valve cover, etc., etc. )   ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: May-03-2015 at 12:07pm
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Steve thanks for the info. I recall previous posts with you when I initially came into possession of my project. I'm not a Ford guy either, and have surprisingly found a lot of info regarding "tweeking" these little animals, that said. Over the past several days I have gotten over my anxiety. I have an extensive past as a tool / die maker/ welder / millwright. I tend to discount that once in a while. I left that particular vocation while I still had all my fingers intact. Have over the past several years as the economy permitted would make it back in a shop for some p/t work just lacking that now - all out of business or still very lean. So, I'm not a stranger to welding cast iron and had a curve like anyone else unfortunately just not engine blocks - gearboxes, staunchons and the like that could be preheated easily and posted in sand. At this point, as a friend of mine told me"it won't get worse" So I am going to attempt to weld it up. Like most, I have looked at engine blocks like an egg so to speak and tended to downplay the possibility of repairs for a myriad of reasons, thermal stresses, etc. etc. Anyhow, my multiple contact attempts with Lock and Stitch have not netted me any reply. So weighing out the pro's and cons - which I find if you solicit information you get a pretty clear split on which is best. Stitch, weld, epoxies uggh! So i'm going to proceed with welding it. I dusted off some journals I kept years ago and I had actually forgotten how much I would record. Now i'm not a metallurgist, however in a past career (brief) I worked in the foundry of a large power transmission manufacturer (T.B. Woods) mixing and pouring Iron of all grades. And it doesn't qualify me to any great degree in identifying the particular composition of grey Iron, but I still recall conversations in the lab regarding all the hideously toxic items I was dumping and inhaling in cupolas just to get all the garbage scrap we melted overnight to spec. I drilled and ground all the cracks. I of course had hot tanked the block so pretty clean for the most part. My tentative plan is the weld it cold, short, short stringers and lots of peening. Only preheating to a small degree to knock the chill off the block. So I plan to have a long day(s) in it. I'm pretty sure I can control the heat enough. and will be able to work simultaneously on at least the inner cracks. Going to get a good "dirty" iron rod for the base welds and will probably go to a nickel 55 or 77 rod for the subsequent courses. Im not going to have to machine anything in relation to these welds so going to stay with a little harder rod to keep strength in the body of the weld itself and hopefully get pretty close to thermal characteristics of the base. As memory and recalled frustration serves me it was always the weld that cracked again after, with nickel 99 always down the middle never at the margins. So trying to balance ductility and ease. So welding in my ghetto shop, saving my money for another magnaflux. And to the proponents of space age technology please don't be dismayed I'm just not a supporter of epoxies on engine internals and not real keen on exterior either and I've bought my share of JB Weld over the years and agree it's a good product within reason and extremely useful in emergencies - that I do know. 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-03-2015 at 12:47pm
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Christopher, I feel your choice for welding is good and certainly worth a try. Yes, it can't get any worse! Way back in my college welding class, I remember vividly one of the welding rod reps come in and weld a crack right in the cylinder wall. We took it over to the auto shop and bored it. You could hardly see the weld. That engine ran for two years and may still be running in a combine in Montana. I do suggest more preheat as well using a rod that's machinable if any of the weld area needs machining. Is that a attempt at brazing the crack or is it just the color of my monitor? TB Woods! As a mechanical engineer I've used plenty of their power transmission components through the years!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: May-03-2015 at 10:41pm
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Yepper, TB Woods. Quite possibly the worst job I ever had
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Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: May-03-2015 at 10:46pm
| Oh hey Pete. No I had not attempted any crack repair. That was the only pic I had to throw up. I think it's just the combination of light paint marker and a little hot tank solution residue. |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: May-04-2015 at 11:15am
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So, now my project takes another turn I had put it out there on craigs list I needed a block as my original known location of a 170 cu. in. was no longer an option. I am awaiting this guy to notify of his location and pics of an engine removed from an early comet he says runs and I get to struggle with more decisions. Last thing I need is another block that's shot Anyhow, I diverted my attention to where I had early anticipated my most daunting of tasks fiberglass. I had observed work had been done to the stringers at some point, just not well and I thought after an initial cleaning up and exploratory surgery that I had disappointingly had some rot. Surprisingly, as I was removing glass they had applied that was not the case. Just dirt that had migrated between the partial / delaminated glass they had applied. They had not fully wrapped the side stringers. They did wrap the main stringers with what looks like a single layer of 17 oz. roving. Unfortunately, no chopped strand under and they did a very poor job of wetting out. So it appears that if I get the crappy work cut away and ground down to clean glass I can retain what's there with a few modifications or re-do of some poorly planned mountings etc. Fillet and re-wrap the main stringers with a double wrap of 7802 and the side stringers etc. with a single wrap of 7802 and possibly some surfacing veil and she's ready to get on her back. I don't know if I had stated this earlier. I have found during de-construction that the original gel of the top side was turquoise that had bee painted over with red imron. If anyone has re-done one of the same color is you have any information what you used for gel color please let me know. I will most likely get premixed / colored gel coat. If I attempt to match it on my own I can pretty safely guarantee that it will result in the first turquoise camo pattern American skier out there I know because of the level of crazing I'm taking the hull and topside down to glass. I have decided early to re-gel the hull, however, I may even awl grip the top side - weighing things out. Let me know your experiences with awl grip or the like - good or bad regardless of the color I have never used that type of product. This sure is stressful for what was to be a diversion for me and my kids Thanks again for everyone's interest. I don't often engage in forums because a lot of information is kind of sketchy, you guys are cool and have been very helpful and spot on! |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-04-2015 at 11:49am
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When trying to match my cream colored gel I cut a piece out of the deck behind the seat and sent it off. Was not cheap and did not match,ended up using it by tweeking it on my own and came out pretty good. As to paint,I painted my Shamrock last summer. In looking on what paint to use I had read that Awlgrip could not be sanded and buffed. Something on how the paint cures and the pigment rising to the surface. Not sure about that and since I didn't want to take a chance I used Imron which I had experience with before. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-04-2015 at 12:36pm
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On second thought,if you are redoing the entire deck then pick a gel as close as you can,it's only a match problem if you are repairing what you currently have. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: May-04-2015 at 2:34pm
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Yep,,, sounds familiar. I bought mine "just to use" for the summer... PO had put a "new" floor in. looked like he used ten pcs of scraps. And so began my journey. http://s37.photobucket.com/user/kten72/media/64%20American%20Skier/AmericanSkier010.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: May-04-2015 at 4:01pm
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Thanks Gary, I'll commit that to my notes. Wow Steve after seeing that I don't feel so bad. You did a great job on your boat looking at the pics. Spent the morning stripping glass off stringers and I'm pretty encouraged and after looking at your boat what I thought had been stringer work may actually be the originals with some home improvement work. They seem to be bedded really well and I see my project curve shortening in where I least expected it. Lots to do it may hit water late this summer after all. Thanks guys for all your assistance! |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: May-04-2015 at 4:56pm
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Christopher, I just about didnt buy my AS because of the 6 banger. I would never give up my 73 SN, but I kind of have a soft spot for the old "bacerds" Ford. I lucked out and only had a couple of weak spots in the secondary stringers. They really only hold the floor, so I sistered new along side the old. I was NEVER planning on "going all the way" with this old girl... but can honestly say I have never been sorry I did. http://s37.photobucket.com/user/kten72/media/64%20American%20Skier/Interior64005.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: August-03-2015 at 7:55pm
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Hi All hope summer's treating you well. An update on my engine struggles. I had a very experienced friend take a crack at the block cracks. (sand mound etc.) an unfortunately it was beyond repair. We thought he had licked it only to find additional cracks when magnafluxed. So, Pete I gave it a try. I began my search. When I originally broke down the engine there were no surplus comet engines (170 cu.in. ) to be had anywhere. then when least expected the sky dumped comets everywhere. So after carefully matching block stamps and casting numbers I was able to find an exact match, only 1 month off in production code. Had to drive to the end of the earth to get it so I think my 63 is going to stay pretty closely configured as possible to original. I am now, after a summer of crazy heat and rain alternately working on grinding fiberglass inside. I believe from all appearences, amazingly the boat still has it's original stringers. However I am unsure of how heavily I am going to re-wrap them. I unwrapped them (reluctantly) because they were wrapped in roving and not very well wetted, a lot of holes in the weave and I was concerned about delamination, which much of it had either pulled away or had just never been applied well. the stringers were tabbed in with CSM and wrapped over with the roving. Im putting the roving just guessing at maybe 16 oz. My plans are to (and have 1708 biaxial) fillet the stringers and wrap with 1708. I have a concern with weight though. Having not worked with 1708 before I was quite surprised when I had to wrestle the roll in after UPS dropped it off. So if anyone has any information to relate on similar repairs let me know. I'm concerned I'm going to start layering in additional weight and would like to keep that under control as much as possible. (little boat). I'm getting close to laying in glass and my original plans were to place a double layer of 1708 over the main stringers(motor) and wrap the outer with probably 2 oz. CSM since they were tabbed in only with what looks like maybe 1.5 or 2 oz. CSM. So if anyone knows I would be curious to know what you did and if you have any idea what the layup schedule was back in the day. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-03-2015 at 8:40pm
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Christopher, Great to hear you found a block.. With the layup, if you haven't already,take a look at the FAQ thread in the maintenance section. There's some links to stringer job that reference the layup. However, it sounds like you already have a plan and it sounds good. There really isn't a set layup. Are we going to see some pictures of the stringer work???? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: August-03-2015 at 11:14pm
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Thanks Pete I'll give it a look over. Sorry about the pics - I'm on duty right now and don't have access to any. I'll try and post some in the near future. Fortunately the boat is pretty sound I haven't found any major stress cracks. However did find an area where they tried to use a repair kit in the transom area. Didn't find anything upon pulling it off like a bad band aid. They apparently were using the aft lifting eye for their ski rope point instead of the pylon?? So I removed the laminate ply and ground down everything well and couldn't find a reason for the attempt to repair. I did note that they had packed around the rudder plate with what I would liken to black electrical insulating putty. Now under that I did see some stress. I was kind of surprised there wasn't a noted build up or additional lamination of fiberglass or plywood laminated in for strength. Some of the bolts on the outside of the hull were crushing the glass. So I have enough on rudder shaft I may build that area a little and most likely will laminate in some ply under the plate to give it a little more strength. Just trying to do a thorough job without getting to far away from original or creating any hard spots that later will mess up my efforts. We plan on making it a daily driver when we get it to water. |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: February-12-2016 at 2:29am
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Hi guys! I thought I would post a long overdue update on the progress of my 1963 American skier. So after, my engine probelms became a critical issue I turned my attention to the hull. Ill post some pics when I find what media card they are on. Anyhow, while I was searching for a solution to the engine I elected to step away from it for a while and get into the hull. So sporadically over the summer I opened up the stringers for inspection, happily they weren't compromised. I did find a crack in the transom noted in earlier posts. I laminated a new transome from plywood and a new bow cross as well. Re-glassed everything with a mountain of 1708 and repaired a bunch of holes on the top side and stress cracks. I covered the whole topside with a vail of 3/4 oz. mat ust to make sure I had stabilized everything and used around 20 some gallons of resin. So hopefully I'm not premature with my winter's progress. I had found a 170 cu. in. inline 6 (running, not well) that matched all castings and codes and actually came off the line 2 months after my interceptor had been manufactured. I let the engine sit for awhile and finally got the courage to tear into it. I didn't ask the guy enough questions. Happily when I disassembled it I found that everything was identical, flat tappet solid lifter cam. It had been bored .030 over and was literally new inside, no gunk. Only problems I noted was (1) slightly bent pushrod and #'s 5 and 6 connecting rod bearings had alot of wear and were begining to score the crank. So, off it went down the street to a performance engine builder (Kriner's Racing Engines if any of you guys follow short track racing) and they were able to polish my crank and I escaped grinding. I think the guy did a reasonable job trying to rebuild it he just wasn't thorough enough. Oil passages were completely blinded with sludge and the mentioned journals and block. So I think he tried to get it done or whoever hot tanked it (if done) didn't clean the passages out. and when he re assembled it he didn't loosen the rocker arms during disassembly, he just wound up tight on a push rod. My guess is he knew he had a problem and got tired of it and decided to put a 289 in it he had. After a good cleaning up, I cleaned all passages, checked the deck and cleaned up all mating surfaces and gave the cylinders a good honing. It appeared the rings had barely set. Waiting now on the block to be returned hopefully without any other problems identified. And I can get pics on to everyone and have it built back to a long block witha pretty coat of alpine green on it. I do have several hurdles yet with it which I hope 62 wood or Mr. Brainard could enlighten me on and Ill post those questions over the next day or two I've gotten too long with this post. Any input or questions from the community would be greatly appreciated! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-12-2016 at 5:29am
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Christopher, Great progress.  These projects do take time. It's great you found the engine so you don't have to deal with the cracked block. A good repair will work but it's always on your mind if it will open up again. Now you have a chunk of cast iron that works great for a mooring anchor!! The early hulls seem to have less or even no problems with rot. It seems that less glass over the wood is better. The bad is the stress cracking with the early glass but the vail is the answer. It will be great when you get a chance to see some pictures so keep them coming. You get my approval with everything you've been doing! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 1:03am
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Thanks Pete for your comments - much appreciated! Before Pic of my Paragon Model 1xe  And the after pic!  Still awaiting the return of my block from being hot tanked. So in the meantime I got busy getting the drive back into order. Pretty horrid mess inside and I'm very pleased that after alot of cleaning, complete disassembly I have what should be a working drive with little more expense than new seals, paint stripper and a fresh coat of paint. Fotunately, it didn't look so bad. Some wear on clutch discs however evenly worn and a fair amount of adjustment left. I thought early on that new bearings were going to be on the project list but happily after a good bath in my ultrasonic cleaner they run free and have no debris left within to cause rough spots. Pete if your following I have a question regarding the exhaust manifolds. Mine was completely trashed when I got the boat and very little left to compare to. Could you or anyone else with the 170 Interceptor describe how the cooling circuit works? I know that sounds stupid, however the set up is a little unorthodox. My question is this, Am I correct in assuming there is a ventury action set up by the where the cooling water enters and bypasses the thermostat housing and exits out to the riser and through the block simultaneously? Reason being I jumped off a cliff earlier this summer. I had seen through other sources on the web and in a thread somewhere here regarding a Barr replacement. Well I got a boat shop buddy to look into it and he found online they had a replacement (FC- 1) described as a manifold for a Ford comet engine. Well no one at Barr knew anything about it even though it was listed in their inventory. So I called them directly and talked to a stock guy and he verified they had one but couldn't confirm fitment as he said "I have been here 20 years and never sold one" So I was on vacation and on the way back to PA from the beach I stopped at Barr in VA. and got them to physically show me it. So as it sits it's set up for starboard exhaust. I noted in pics that the end and header caps were symmetrical and bolted on and on the phone he couldn't advise if they could be swapped. So when I visited I verified they could be reversed to make it a port side exhaust. I then got my friend to get me it at his cost plus a little beer. I then got from ebay in "new" old stock a 15 degree water cooled riser and the adaptor plate to join everything. It will look close to original, however im going to have to work on the routing of the cooling circuit and it will press my motor further to a "one" off than I had hoped for. I am planning to and can use the original arrangement of the 1/4" cooling line from the rear of the head to the manifold. Im just trying to get it right so the flow works properly through the manifold and block. Hopefully I can get the results from it I desire and I will put it up in the forum for everyone to check out. The manifold I got was one of four remaining in existance, once they go no more. So if anyone else is experiencing the same hurdles with an exhaust manifold for one of these beasties it may be of help. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 6:07am
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Christopher, Steve (wood) had some cooling issues with his 6 and if I remember correctly it came down to a wrong T stat. I'm sure he'll be by and correct me if I'm wrong. The cooling system is typical of any marine. Basically water is diverted into the block as needed determined by the stat. If it's closed, all the water is bypassed and goes directly to the manifold. With any manifold, the key is to not create a air pocket on the high end. Some of the Barr's utilize a internal separate tube to direct water to the high end. Just how trashed is your old manifold? Have you pressure tested it to see if there are any breaches between the exhaust and water cavities? Interceptor's aluminum manifolds (or any others) are a great weight savings however they are prone to burn through from hot exhaust gasses if they ever run dry. Some had steel half round liners down the exhaust cavity to shield the aluminum walls. If you do have some holes. they can be repaired. The outer wall is cut open to access the burn through, The hole(s) are welded shut and then the outer wall is welded back in. http://www.castmetalwelding.com/" rel="nofollow - Crow Custom Cast is noted for their restoration of vintage/antique parts. I've seen their work and you can't tell the manifold has been repaired. You may want to look into a repair if there are breaches inside your manifold. On your trans adjustment, you want to adjust the clutch pack so it just knuckles over into forward. There's lots of adjustment but that's there for the stack height tolerance of the complete assembly with all the clutch plates. If you haven't taken the clutch pack apart and you get slippage or no knuckle over, go one notch only. BTW, no synthetic oil in the engine! Dino with plenty of ZDDP. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JGR-00728/" rel="nofollow - Don't forget the assembly grease ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 10:11am
This is how our 170 is plumbed. I've never quite understood the water route as the inlet into the block is also the outlet. 
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Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 10:30am
FWIW: ie: Lucas Break In Oil (Comp Cams recommends Valvoline VR=1 ) ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 11:08am
Bruce, Take a look at the forward end (flywheel end) of the engine. You see that small water line running to the exhaust manifold? It doesn't take much water to cool the engine. More is actually needed to cool the exhaust manifold. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 11:27am
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Thanks Pete and Riley. My manifold was completely gone. I wish I could report it was just some cracks, but this thing when they finally decided they had killed it (and probably sunk) they put it in an unheated garage without draining or laying up anything for 25 years. It had tons of cracks and the boat apparently saw less fresh water than salt. It literally fell apart after days of penetrating oil, etc. to extricate the manifold bolts. What on the exterior that looked repairable initially to me was as is the case with anything in this project was skin deep. There was virtually no core left inside to bond any repairs to. I could have made sparklers for my kids out of it.About to fist fulls of aluminum dust. I have spent several months barn diving without any luck looking for an original. I grew up on a lake that was built after hurricane Agnes and the day the lake opened it looked like a push pull or drag sale. Everyone bought anything that would float to boat with and I was hoping the throngs of discarded boats in the area would net me something, unfortunately no luck. So the cost vs benefit right now has me where I'm at. Thanks again Pete for your expertise. My question was along the lines of how the water was getting around in the block and through the manifold and Riley summed it up better better than I did in my question. I just wanted to make sure I looked at it correctly and wasn't going to do anything to change the way the block got it's cooling needs. Looked simple to me just wanted to confirm my thoughts. The Fc-1 is pretty simple I hope my boat doesn't list from it.! Good thing it's a right hand driver my petiteness should put it on an even keel without sand bags. And yep Pete I'm up with you on the oil. My father is a retired mechanical engineer and did a lot of of work with what was then Kendall Oil Company in Bradford PA and remains today a champion of PA crude which apparently has a parafin base as opposed to more asphaltic content found in oils produced from other crude. The Kendall brand is long since gone from Bradford and is now home of the American Refining Group and produces Brad Penn oil which caters heavily to the performance community as they still produce conventional oil which that contains higher than permitted by the EPA of ZDDP which flat tappet cams thrive on. I can get Vr-1 and Brad Penn locally and probably will use the Brad Penn my engine building buddies like it particularly for their break in oil. We found out the hard way about synthetics in vintage engines. One of my family members decided we needed to put Mobil 1 in a flawlessly working 70 year old flat head six marine engine. Right away the drive slipped terribly in forward (too slippery) and it wiped out the bearings in the motor probably from dissolving sludge in the pan. $,4800.00 and a stellited crank, pistons that had to be fitted etc., etc. they didn't do that again. |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 11:32am
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Hey Pete just saw your latest after I posted. I kind of surmised that regarding the 1/4" cooling line and plan on retaining that. My laymans assumptions also were that since the motor is standard rotation and drives off the front of the motor it was a needed feature to also ensure air got out of the head and hot spots were reduced or eliminated. I don't make it to your neck of the woods, however when I get this project done maybe I can get to a lake near you. Thanks again your help is very generous and much appreciated. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 11:40am
| Pete, I believe that small tube is a vent so the system does not get air bound. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 11:41am
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Chris, Bruce's idea of the in and out for the engine cooling being the same isn't the case. He just missed the small out at the flywheel end of the block. I including many here run the VR-1 in their engines. I run 20-50 in all of mine. Regarding the importance of running an oil with the ZDDP in flat tappet engines, I too have seen first hand what happens running synthetics. Cams with barely any lobes left and these too were on flat head Hercules (Chris) engines. Yup, the owners thought they were doing the correct thing to put the Mobile 1 in their engines!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 11:47am
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Synthetic (including M1) and zddp content are mutually exclusive. Gotta read the data sheets and/or do an oil analysis. Mobil1 15w50, for example, has as much zddp as your beloved vr1 (I use both). I have also heard good things about brad penn. There may be other reasons to gravitate to (or avoid) synthetics, but zddp content isn't one of them. Just like conventional oils, some have plenty, others don't. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 11:47am
| Pete, there's not enough water that comes out of that tube to cool anything. I've had it off with the engine running. |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 11:52am
Cool another Brad Penn fan, I have slowly been converting people around SE WI (boats and cars), I did a ton of research and continue to monitor what is going on (yes the manufactures are constantly changing and updating their blends) and Brad Penn continues to manufacture an oil that works really well in these old flat tappet engines. And its reasonably priced as well!!! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 12:04pm
How much water does come out? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 12:12pm
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Sorry guys but fun debating. I'm kind of still along the lines with the 1/4" line at rear being just a preventative measure against air, however Im not beyond thinking that it would be a necessary cooling path for an engine that has warmed up. While at idle it probably could take care of cooling. With the oil thing regarding past experiences. I'm sure it wasn't a case of inadequate ZDDP levels as much as a sythetics propensity to liberate sludge and of course be a little to efficient for clutch discs to grab. I will say that, although I can't give an exact timeline the API classifications have been changing and as a result of ZDDP being scaled down. It was my understanding through a conversation about a week ago with my performance engine acquintances that their not recommending synthetics in their builds They told me the reason was that the reduced levels of ZDDP being introduced in standard oils and synthetics (i'm not a chemist so don't beat me up) that there is a different type of zinc related element more environmentally friendly form I guess and I think he referred to it as ZDDT? I have no idea if that reference is correct. I just know their opinion is in the engines they produce with flat tappet cams conventional oils only. I guess there's many ways to skin a cat, but these guys ship competition engines of all types all over the world and (unknown to me) have been building off shore engines as well. Found that pretty amazing for living in a land locked community. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 2:53pm
No debate. Just telling you what I know from owning the same engine as you. That tube barely drips at idle. Maybe Steve 62Wood will chime in as he's had his engine all apart. Other than general maintenance and replacing all the hoses, we haven't needed to do much to ours. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 3:48pm
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I've certainly been wrong before and I'm sure it won't be the last time. Yes, I'd now say that small line on the flywheel end is to eliminate air. Bruce and or Chris, I'd be curious as to how the inside of that T stat housing is configured. I remember sitting at the Bayside dock with Steve while he was installing a new stat but I never got a look at how the passages in housing and block were made. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 7:44pm
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Please forgive guys, the "fun debate" comment wasn't meant to disrespect anyone's experiences, insights or professional perspective. I probably should have iterated that the discussion has been very very interesting. I'm very appreciative of everyone taking their time to provide insights, experiences and knowledge. I view all discussions as useful and I can definitely say that all of your input and knowledge of vintage Correct Crafts is helping me to make better decisions, shorten my restoration curve and provide me very valuable knowledge of the the purpose of design. So, please accept any apologies if necessary your perspectives have been invaluable!!!. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 8:45pm
Chris, I sure didn't take your "fun debate" comment the wrong way and I can say I doubt anyone else took it the wrong way ether so don't worry about it. I'm the one who always seems to get in trouble with what I say! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 11:42pm
Pete, now your asking me to go back a "while". I think it was around 6 years ago I was replacing the head, so Green Lake was probably 7 years ago. I did replace the t.stat with a 160 automotive one at GL that year. From what I remember, I had already replaced the water pump impeller, so the stat was next in line to try. That was not the problem either. I ended up replacing the entire pump with another one from a donor motor I had around. I think the cover plate on the original pump had minor grooves in it, and I'm guessing it wouldnt prime. I do remember if we could get it out and on plane, it would work. I since then replaced the stat with a marine 140. mannnn, I need to get that old girl out of storage this summer. She hasnt been wet since I got the 73. . ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: February-18-2016 at 11:44pm
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btw, I also thought the main purpose of the 1/4" line was to keep it from air locking. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-19-2016 at 10:19am
| Glassdog, no problems. We do debate on occasion. I'm surprised those engines aren't easier to find as Ford made so many of them. I really like ours, but if you told me 20 years ago that I would someday own a Correct Craft with an old Falcon 6, I'd have told you that you were crazy. |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: February-19-2016 at 6:27pm
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I hoped when I first embarked on this boat L6 Interceptors were more plentiful. Instead I have been getting a schooling. They put the 144 cu. in. through 200 cu. cares left. All of them got melted down apparently when scrap got high. Im not a Ford guy but this has been interesting and challenging. I had this block im working on now for months before I would attempt it, was seriously looking to re-power with a small v6 or v8. Kind of glad I didn't I really like see vintage stuff in original order or as close as possible. That and I really dig the sound of an inline 6 on water! But it is surprising how few there are left around. Seems Aussies love to buiild them up and race them. The guy who rebuilt my starter for the engine was a big hot rodder back in the sixties and talked my ear off about inlines. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-19-2016 at 6:49pm
| Ours is the early model 170 with 3 or 4 main bearings. If I were looking for a replacement, I'd be looking for a 7 main, 170 ci. It does sound good when she fires up. |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: February-19-2016 at 7:13pm
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Well yours like mine should have only 4 mains.7 mains (through my new education) didn't show up until later. Ford came out with the 250 and put 7 mains in and re-worked the first version of the 200 which originally only had 4 same as the 170 just 1.5" higher deck height. I found this out because it was one of the first blocks I was looking at the owner though it was a 170 based on the number of expansion plugs (3) block codes put it at 200. So bsk to the explaination Ford decided I guess when tooling up they could kill two birds with one stone and gave the 200 (5) expansion plugs and 7 main bearings like it new big brother. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-19-2016 at 8:17pm
| I thought I read the 170's had been upgraded to 7 in the mid 60's but I maybe wrong as I forget a lot of what I read. Did the 300 six have 7 mains? I had a '94 F150 that was my favorite truck I've ever had. We used our mustang a few years ago for skiing and it pulled pretty well. I've never checked the compression, but it doesn't use any oil. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-19-2016 at 8:40pm
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Straight-6_engine" rel="nofollow - I found this "wiki" on the Ford I-6's to be very interesting ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 2:14pm
Still waiting on my block!   So good time to paint stuff. Anyhow, I, in the past have not been a fan of Harbor Freight but I bought a 50 lb. portable spot sand blaster the other day. Had a few discounts and on sale so I figured if it didn't work so what. I am amazed at how well it worked. So if any of you guys have any paint removal to etc. - Good low cost item to have. I have a question for 62 Wood (if viewing). Since you had replied earlier in posts regarding your head swap on your Interceptor. I was wondering if you felt it was worth it? I know gains won't be huge. Although some restriction issues on the intake side are reduced there still remains restriction on the exhaust side. Do you think your performance improved? If so how? I had been doing alot or research on the little engine and tweaks to get it to perform a little better. I'm kind of on the fence regarding my head. I have a sound (original) head with 1 -1/2 carb intake hole and and anticipate no major changes should I use that one. the only thing I may do since I have to replace the pushrods is make some spring changes. Going to get sealed power push rods that are a little bit more resilient than stock and will tolerate mild performance enhancements. Im thinking if I go that route Im going to put early (single) Ford 289 springs in that have ( I think) about a 20 - 30 lb. increased in closed pressure. Just to increase the closure rate of the valves and that's about it. I have found several remanufactured heads (later production date) to improve performance if I go that route. Just mulling let me know your findings. Thanks! |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: March-01-2016 at 2:20am
My before and after is not necessarily a good comparison. The P.O. had replaced the head with one that had a 1973 date code (larger than original head's combustion chamber). They also had installed a felpro gasket. The original head gasket was a steel shim type. (thinner). In checking with a Ford 6 banger guru, I was told the engine was probably only running around 7:1 compression....And that wasnt figuring the fact the 73 head had a couple of visible cracks. It was a wonder it ran at all So, this engine only had one way to go. I had always attributed the "poor" performance to the fact it was a Ford six banger. One limiting HP factor in this marine set up is the fact there are no aftermarket exhaust manifolds available. The factory manifold is not that large and is a limiting factor in trying to push more air thru the engine. The car guys usually run headers. We dont have that option. I did not have a good original 177 head to work with, After talking with a guy from a Ford Hi-performance 6 website, I decided to go with the newer style head from a late 70's 200. It has larger intake runners and hardened valve seats. I bought a complete 1978 200 engine and pulled the head off. I cleaned up all the casting flash on the new head and port matched the exhaust manifold. I dont remember the exact number, but I think we had around .040 shaved from the head to make up for the new style head gasket and larger comb. chamber. I know we could still go another .010 or so on the block if needed down the road. I ended up having all new valves and springs installed as well. I can tell you, it was the most expensive single head I have ever had done!  When re-assembling everything, I found one thing even the 6 banger guru didnt know. The fuel bowl of my Carter YH would hit the intake runner. (they always used downdraft carbs on the cars). Thus enters the custom made 2" stainless adapter elbow you see the carb mounted on. In the end - my take is I now have a great running little 6 banger, that still doesnt have enough power to get out of her own way and wont hit 40mph... But, she is a blast to drive, sounds GREAT, and (in my opinion) looks cool with the little bit of polished and chrome accents. It actually gets as many, or maybe even more comments than any of my v8's. Bottom line is she is once again dependable.  . ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: March-01-2016 at 11:37pm
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Hey thanks for the reply. You kind of confirmed the direction I should go. I came to the same conclusion (expense) that you confirmed. When I was adding up the potential of going to a 200 ci head it appeared pretty expensive. I know you had posted info before regarding your head swap but I just needed a little more information to weigh it all out. Without any real flow info around its kind of educated guessing based others experiences. So few a few modest mods, little heavier valve springs and probably get .015-.020 knocked off the head and get her going. I was never expecting neck breaking performance, I figured 35 mph might be a good day for it. Has been a little bit of a challenge but very interesting even though it's not a great motor on water or land. Got my block back today and painted, should get the cam bearings and expansion plugs in tomorrow maybe the crank as well ill post some pics when I get down to it . - Thanks!! |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: March-19-2016 at 9:25pm
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Hey Riley or 62 wood if your'e still following this thread I have a small problem I need some information to resolve and you two seem like the potential source of information. So I have my head disassembled and I am going to replace valve guides and install new valves. got a friend who will do a grind on the seats for me. So moving along slowly. Anyhow I have my block assembled, with the tranny attached. Quite pleased still have a ways to go. So my question centers around the Mallory distributor of my 170. I am having an extreme problem finding a cap and rotor for this thing. (3) tries and still not correct. So I contacted Mallory directly to find they have sold marine interests to Sea Star Solutions (Sierra). So I called sea star and what I received was close but not the ticket. It's a Mallory YL Type 414D. Mallory still made the YL type of distributor however it was slightly bigger. So if anyone knows what fits this distributor and can provide me with part#S I would really appreciate it. Thanks!! |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: March-19-2016 at 10:06pm
| I've bought the cap and rotor at NAPA. I brought my old ones into them and they matched them. |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: March-19-2016 at 10:27pm
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I already Tried that. I so miss the days of the real auto parts stores with real counter men!!
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Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: March-20-2016 at 3:15am
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let me do some checking. I replaced mine. I remember going thru this as well. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-20-2016 at 9:34am
For sure!! Nothings worse than walking into an Autozone and getting the kid on the computer! Even worse is asking him for a marine part like a RR starter! We.ve heard a couple of those stories.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: March-20-2016 at 9:58am
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I found the info on the ignition parts. These are #'s on the flaps I saved from the boxes in the 64's notebook.. . Dizzy Cap ....................Mallory #226B Rotor ................................ Mallory #320M Rotor ................................. NAPA#AL104 Points................................ Mallory #25042 Points................................ NAPA #CS2300 Condenser ................... NAPA #MA3 Condenser...................... Mallory#400 Ballast Resistor ...........Mallory #700 Ballast Resistor .......... NAPA #ICR11 Voltage Regulator ... Wells#VR749 Coil........................................ Mallory 29717 I have 2 part numbers for some of the items. Not 100% why on all of them, I'm pretty sure I do remember on the points. I originally ordered the Mallory points online and was unhappy with the quality of them. They reminded me of the cheap blister packed points kmart used to have hanging on their shelves. I went to NAPA and bought the cross reference CS2300. BTW, I think these are the same as points a Malory dual point dizzy uses. I can only guess on the other parts, but I know that I had worked on the ignition a couple of times. Once when I bought the boat and then a couple years later when I replaced the head. When I did the head, I also re-wired most of the boat. I probably replaced some of the ignition parts again at this time. Hope this info helps! . ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: March-20-2016 at 10:03am
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... ohhhhh,....... I also remember a time when I swapped the dizzy out for another one I had, The original dizzy had some corrosion issues with the advance timing plate. Some of the parts could have been from that swap. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: March-20-2016 at 10:13am
Pete, I had to laugh at this... even at NAPA when I asked for the ballast resistor, the young kid had a confused look on his face. (I dont think he even knew what a BR is) Then when its for a 50 year old inboard it's even worse! One of the old timers stepped up and says "I'll help this one" . A lot of the time, I'll just ask them for the old paper catalog and tell them to help someone else while I figure out what I think will work. . ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-20-2016 at 10:26am
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I only ran into a problem once. This happened to be at Napa I'd say at least 15 years ago and that's when they still had "old timers" there. I was looking for the T stats for my 312 Y block. He looked for days and never did find a source. I ended up having to go to Watercraft Sales and the "old timer" there knew where to get them. I paid dearly for them! Also, I never did find out where he got them! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: March-20-2016 at 7:53pm
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Thank you gentlemen! That information is a great help and gets me a little further. I am hoping to get this motor completely back together. I am in the process of getting the head squared away. I rebuilt the dizzy- new bearing, bushings and seal. Cleaned lots of corrosion out, luckily flyweights and springs were in great condition.ssistance Still have the carb to rebuild and the raw water pump hope to get this thing running and broken in on the stand so I can get back to the hull. Thanks again so much of everyone's assistance especially your excellent foresight in documenting 62 wood! |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: March-20-2016 at 7:53pm
| sorry for the typos! in a hurry |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: May-26-2016 at 7:33pm
Hi guys thought you might want to see what you end up with when you literally build your own interceptor. Sorry if these appear sideways. For whatever reason they never arrive in the position i intend.   These were taken just before I ran it and broke it in for the first time. I am very pleased it ran on the first hit and runs amazingly well. I was kind of startled when it fired off. No leaks of any type. Quick run down because those of you who have one of these will note some differences. I harvested a block from a "63 Falcon Rebuilt - new bearings, lifters, pushrods, gaskets. I rebuilt the carb and the fuel pump and dizzy. The exhaust manifold is a Barr Marine FC-1 I physically looked at in Woodbridge VA at their factory. (wouldn't sell it to me there though) and you wil notice it required slight mods to the routing of the cooling circuit consisting of extending the connection that orginally went into the stock manifold and using wire reinforced cooling lines as you can see. Finally ran the exhaust out through a 30 degree water cooled riser. It runs unbelievably well. Sounds awesome and cools well. Questions comments? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-26-2016 at 7:39pm
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Wow nice work! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-26-2016 at 7:51pm
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Very nice indeed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-26-2016 at 8:25pm
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That is SO cool!!! What kind of horsepower do you expect? How much does it weigh? ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-26-2016 at 8:39pm
Not much and plenty!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: May-26-2016 at 9:05pm
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Thanks guys! Well im pretty sure I'm going to get the rated raging 100 HP of Ford performance from it. as far as the weight goes I have no idea maybe 450-500 lbs?? I should take it to a scale before I install it just out of curiousity. Sorry about the pics I finally gave up trying to get them right side up. I stayed with the stock head. I was considering doing a head swap I'm glad I didn't I'm pretty sure this head had been milled by the previous owner and I did nothing but lap the valves since they were sealing well, brass expansion plugs and new stem seals and check for cracks and trueness of the surfaces. I have not checked it yet but its got great compression. Rings seated quickly on break in and theres not a hint of smoke. I'm amazed by it. cant wait to get the rest of the boat done and get it wet. |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-27-2016 at 1:00am
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HA! That is very true, not much and a lot - too funny!!! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: May-27-2016 at 8:26am
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Wow, that came out really nice. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-27-2016 at 8:41am
| Looks great! NAPA 1521 is the short oil filter. I think the engine weighs 350 lbs. I can't remember if that is with or without the trans. |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: May-27-2016 at 4:11pm
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Congrats looks awesome! Now I can´t believe Pete overlooked the fram filter... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: Glassdog
Date Posted: May-28-2016 at 12:19pm
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Thanks for all your help and gracious comments throughout. I'm very pleased with the results and that I was able to keep at least in appearance correct to original. I'm with Pete on the Fram filter opinion. Not a very good filter anymore. At one time they were pretty good but when source manufacturers change it's not always necessarily good to the quality of an item. I figured going with the larger filter and the fact it's life span was only going to be 20 minutes of break in it would be ok. Now obviously a much better filter is going on it for use So ill keep you guys abreast of my progress. I have a pretty solid set of skills and resources, however the imput and advice you all have provided has been invaluable and has cut alot of time out if for nothing else to make myself continually reevaluate and look at solutions to my activities. Thanks so much again! |