Engine Rebuild
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34787
Printed Date: April-29-2024 at 12:09pm
Topic: Engine Rebuild
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Subject: Engine Rebuild
Date Posted: October-17-2014 at 3:32am
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New poster, long time reader here. I just bought my first boat. It's a 77'CC FN. The hull is in great shape, but the engine needs a rebuild.It threw a rod this week. I have a 351 Windsor RH. I've been asking around for a good local shop, but it seems like everyone wants me to use their closest friend's brother. I want to use a good shop, but it's hard to tell who to trust. 1. Can anyone recommend some good sources to buy a re-manufactured motor or ship for a rebuild? I was quoted $2500 for a rebuild from a local shop here in San Diego, not including R&R. He quoted me 2.5 hours on the removal and 8-10 on the install. He's passing me a 6 month warranty from the machine shop, but that won't include R&R if they put in a bad motor. 2. Does this sound standard for this type of work? There's a guy on CL, motorbuilder71. He' selling this engine for $1600 w/ 5 year warranty. 3.Anyone know this guy's work? Other option is rebuild the engine with my buddy and his dad. His dad is my trusted auto mechanic. Expected cost is $800 for the machine shop plus new Marine parts $500ish? = $1300. Then I do the R&R myself. 4. Will an auto mechanic fully understand the differences of a RH rotation Marine engine from an auto engine? \ Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated! Dan ------------- dan-ger |
Replies:
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: October-17-2014 at 2:28pm
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If you threw a rod, it's not likely that your motor block is going to be salvageable. It's hard to know which direction to go since we don't know much about you. If it was me personally, I would do the rebuild myself, with help from the guys here on which parts you need. a rebuild is not all that hard If you are mechanically inclined, and are willing to go slow and listen to those who actually know what they are doing, and don't mind investing in some tools. I'm Not a fan of the closest friend's brother deal, and With CL, you never know what you're going to get, so buyer beware... To take a line from Tommy Boy, "you can crap in a box, and stamp it guaranteed, but then all you a get is a guaranteed piece of crap"... welcome to the site, we need pictures 
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-17-2014 at 2:55pm
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I would lean towards doing it myself unless I had time constraints or stuck in Florida where I don't have all my tools. A few weeks ago I thought I might have a problem and thought I would check http://www.rapidomarine.com/" rel="nofollow - these guy's out since they are close. I have heard good and bad about them,maybe you need to find someone like them in your area. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: October-18-2014 at 8:16pm
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Thanks guys. I appreciate your input. I've opted to rebuild myself with some help. Sometimes, I look for faster ways, but I know I'll feel better when it's done for many reasons. I'm now researching all of the ins and outs of a reverse rotation. Interested to see the differences between the Standard and Reverse... I'll get some pictures up and share once the project gets started. ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: October-19-2014 at 4:45am
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There are some really good local rebuilders in most towns, or there are National Rebuilders like JASPER ENGINES or AER in Dallas. I know Jasper and AER put out a quality product but they do charge for it and they stand behind their work. If your engine did indeed break a connecting rod you won't have much salvage from your old block. Normally when I see a broken rod it has associated damage. The Crankshaft, Block, Pistons and sometimes the head and camshaft may be junk. Or if you are very lucky most of these parts may be fine. Only a total tear down will show what is good and what is bad. I do rebuild my engines at home but I have good machine shops I trust that do the machine work for me. If I have a problem I get to fix it. If you have the shop assemble the engine you can have some warranty with your engine. The parts and machine work is where the money is spent. Most shops will assemble the engine for $150 to $200. Sometimes it is worth it to have them do it. They do it every day, the odds of it running correctly are much better with someone that knows the ropes doing the assembly. I was in a shop picking up parts one day, one customer came in and wanted to pick up his parts to go home and assemble his engine, a Dodge 318, at the same time another customer came in to pick up his rebuilt fully assembled 318 Dodge. The two bills for the same engine were within $100. of each other. One was done, painted and going out the door with warranty and the other still had many hours labor needed to get it to the same state. Ask questions and get feedback from local people that have used the shops, good shops have a following. I mentioned I always build my own, I did not say that is the smartest thing to do but I enjoy doing it. 
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-19-2014 at 12:08pm
+1  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
MrMcD wrote:Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: October-22-2014 at 7:18pm
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Alright... It's been a productive week. Monday- Pulled the boat, then the motor w/tranny, then we tore down the motor. Pictures of the breakdown can be found http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/dantsue/library/" rel="nofollow - Here Turns out a valve seal blew and was shredded in the cylinder. There was also a piston ring seized up and causing havoc. The heads cannot be serviced anymore, so I'm on the prowl for some new heads and pistons. My machine shop says they have some coming in, so we will see. This motor was rebuilt by the PO only around 110 hours ago, so it looks like overheating may have been the cause of this. I'm thinking the cooling system is the issue. The impeller looks dated and there were 2 badly kinked hoses in the cooling line. I bought a major rebuild kit for the G21 raw water pump which should be here tomorrow and I am replacing the hoses. Also, will throw in a new thermostat. Is there anything else I should be looking for while I have this torn out? Obviously, I don't want to go through this again anytime soon. Also, I've seen some posts about giving the valves more clearance. Can anyone explain if this is necessary? Any help is appreciated. ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-22-2014 at 7:24pm
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Dan, For the convenience of all, Here's a proper http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/dantsue/library/" rel="nofollow - link to your phobucket
Regarding clearances, I do know piston to cylinder bores on a marine are greater but I have never heard of anything with valves. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: October-22-2014 at 10:11pm
| Interesting it has the 1.23 drive. I wonder how that does in the big ship. |
Posted By: Mountain Man
Date Posted: October-23-2014 at 11:58am
| My brother and I are also restoring a CC 86/87 Fish Nautique. It was re-powered by a PCM dealer in the mid 1990's using the GT-40 / 1.23 PCM transmission combination. We are in the process of replacing both. Looks like the 1.23 held up for about 15(+)years in the big ship. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-23-2014 at 12:02pm
How about some pictures? We love them! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: October-23-2014 at 1:23pm
What are your plans with your 1.23? Was it still working well? Although mine seems to be holding up pretty strong, I may be interested in taking it off your hands to keep as a spare. ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: Mountain Man
Date Posted: October-23-2014 at 2:01pm
| The PCM-70 1.23:1 transmission was disassembled for rebuild when we purchased the boat. My understanding from the previous owner is that it had developed a "slow" rear seal leak. It has been cleaned and appears to be complete and I'm willing to sell it as is. Feel free to make an offer by private message. Since the FN will be used for offshore saltwater tournament fishing we bought a brand new replacement for reliability. The PCM-80A kit appeared to be the best deal which includes the transmission, damper plate, and cooler. |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-26-2014 at 10:07am
Any chance you can find a machinist who has marine building experience? There are several key differences between marine and auto. Remember that an auto runs at a constant and generally higher temp. The 1.23 solves the RR thing. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-26-2014 at 10:20am
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Piston to wall clearance, and piston ring end gaps need to typically be adjusted for marine use. Both are also dependent on the Pistons and rings you are running. What was being referred to as increased valve clearance, well you got me on that one as well? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-26-2014 at 10:43am
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Dan, About the valve clearance issue, was it stem clearance? Maybe you misunderstood? Fill us in. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: October-26-2014 at 5:57pm
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I did misunderstand. He was referring to piston to wall clearance. Sorry! This is my first rebuild and I am learning a lot. My machine shop said the pistons are salvageable, so it looks like I only need new heads. He just got some in and will be servicing them hopefully soon. The pistons are 30 over and I have not taken the block in to measure the bore to see if the previous rebuild had clearance to specs. From what I am reading on CCFan threads, it looks like I should definitely do this, right? The specifications for piston to wall clearance and ring end gaps are set by the piston manufacturer, correct? I've been told by several people this machine shop is the best in the area (for auto). But, as long as he has these specs, I should be good I would assume. I have a back up machinist who is well versed in marine motors. If shop #1 can't get them back to me by Tuesday, I am going to head over to shop #2. So, piston to wall clearance and ring end gaps need to be Marine standards. Is there anything else that I should be considering? ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-27-2014 at 11:38am
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I vote shop 2. Also, maybe marine engine? . com has PCM service manuals. I read mine before turning many bolts. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: October-27-2014 at 3:43pm
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I found the service manual on CCFan and read through the specs. The only ring end gap and piston to wall clearance specs I can find are from the piston manufacturers. This actually makes sense given their knowledge of how the material will expand with heat. One thing I don't understand. When we removed the pistons, they were in the block as 1324 and 5768. The manual has it spec'd at 1234, 5678. I wonder if anyone has an explanation for this. Also, when we assemble the motor, should we put them back in the same way with the same bearings? My mechanic friend didn't understand why they were in there like that, so I want to make certain we are not missing something. ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-27-2014 at 3:59pm
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Not that it has anything to do with the rebuild, but is it possible your Fish is newer than you think? Might explain the 1.23. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-27-2014 at 4:00pm
If you are not replacing the pistons, then you will not have much to say about piston to wall clearance. The pistons sizes are set and your piston bore sizes are also basically set and can only be opened up by whatever honing will be needed to clean up the walls. Your gap will certainly end up no less than what was there before. If you dropped a seal into the cylinder I would expect you to have some damage to at least one piston and likely the effected cylinder as well?? The numbers were put there by a rebuilder, not likely the original manufacter. The numbers could have been put there when they removed them from the first incarnation and then when they actually pressed together piston and connecting rod assemblies they measured them and decided to put them in a different order for balance. Or they just put them in different spots upon reassembly. I have seen connecting rods out of engines that have had rebuilt engines installed have three or four different numbering schemes on them suggesting they were well seasoned rods indeed. If you do not want to resize rods, replace bearings, polish the crank or in otherways effect things that previously rubbed together then put everything back together with the mates you found them with, not with whatever previous yahoo numbered them with. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: October-27-2014 at 4:05pm
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1.23 came about in '89. Idk if the FN ever got the 1.23 even though '89 was it's last year. '88 and '89 got a different transom lay out so that would be a tell tale sign as to the year You said before your 351 was reverse rotation. Can the 1.23 be flipped? I thought 1.23 was for the lefty's? |
Posted By: Mountain Man
Date Posted: October-27-2014 at 4:20pm
| The PCM-70 1.23:1 pump can be reversed for either standard or reverse rotation. The PCM-80 1.23:1 literature indicates that it is for standard rotation only. |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-27-2014 at 4:42pm
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There is no chance he was running a reverse rotation engine with a 1.23:1 transmission - Without regard for whether it is or is not possible it is just plain ol silly ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: October-27-2014 at 4:45pm
You are correct. When I first started the project, I thought it was RR, however, after having a better understanding of engine rotation, it appears that it is standard. I'm learning a lot here  ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: dochockey
Date Posted: January-08-2015 at 11:58am
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Any updates ? ------------- 1989 Teal Ski Nautique 1967 Mustang Harris Float Sunfish |
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: January-12-2015 at 9:10pm
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Hi- Sorry for the lack of updates on the project. Just got married and we're trying to close on a house, so it's been a little hectic here. We finished the rebuild of the top end. I ended up getting newer heads because the old ones couldn't be serviced any longer. Put in new thermostat, gaskets, rebuilt the impeller, installed new water pump, buttoned it back together and splashed her. Right when we started her up, there was a knocking sound coming from engine. It was pretty loud and unusual for a rebuild. I thought for certain there was something wrong with the new heads/valves. It was a very frustrating moment. I let it run for 15 minutes while racking my brain. I was at the point to pull the boat and motor again! Then, there was a solid "clink" like something seated properly and presto- she sounded like a new engine. Took it out for a sea trial and it ran strong. The next week, we opened her up WOT and everything was great. This last week, we took her out for kelp bed fishing and I opened her up with a full load. She was running awesome, then Pop Pop! There was a backfire coming from the carb. So, now I'm thinking bad gas. I refueled and added some booster in the fuel and ran her again for while. Then I opened her up a little under load and Pop Pop! This is happening around 3300RPM under load. I have not had a chance to look into this yet, but I'm thinking it's either timing or the fuel pump was dirty and pushed dirt into the carb. The fuel pump looked kind of new when I did the rebuild, but you never know what the PO had done or not done. Any input is welcomed at this point. Otherwise, I will update when I have a solution or bigger problem. LOL. ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: January-13-2015 at 5:43pm
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I'd put a light on it and check your total advance. My guess on the pop would be timing way off, maybe you'll find the advance mechanism is stuck. Easy to clean it up and make sure everything is moving freely and try again. Congrats on the marriage! ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: January-13-2015 at 5:47pm
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Ditto, Also may have broke a valve spring. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: skitique179
Date Posted: January-24-2015 at 12:31am
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Don't have much experience setting timing but I hope you get it worked out and that is all it is. Being that you are in San Diego I can give you a little advice on who to use and not use for your inboard motor based on personal experience. 1. Would steer clear of Affordable Marine Service or AMS just south of downtown. They did some work on my boat when I first bought it and the did not know their way around an inboard motor. Also when I picked the boat up I lost the trailer tire a block away from a gash in the sidewall and after the fact realized that the trailer fender was dented. 2. If you need any work on your inboard transmission I would highly recommend Pacwest Marine and Industrial on Shelter Island. A few months after buying my boat I had the transmission go bad and they rebuilt it for a fair price. Knock on wood it is still going strong. 3. I would not under any circumstances use Pacific Coast Marine in Mission Valley. I had a complete motor rebuild performed their that lasted less than 40 hours. The machine shop work was subcontracted out to Wholesale Automotive Marine also in Mission Valley who I would not use as well at least for marine work. The reason for the second rebuild was a knock that developed due to the number six cyllinder binding up. This was caused by the clearancing of the cyllinders not being done correctly for a marine engine. Also when the work was done it had to be done twice because the first time they rebuilt the motor it was assembled as a regular rotation motor lol. Don't use them. Good luck to you. The fish Nautiques look sweet! |
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: February-11-2015 at 4:02pm
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OOOOk. So, I had a guy come out to check the timing. We took and out and he was convinced that the timing is on because we can get consistent repeatable backfiring. We are experiencing-> 3500 rpm for 1-2 minutes and we start to lose power. RPM's slowly drop by 200, then bang bang. We investigated the carb and made some adjustments. We took it back out and the backfiring shifted. So now, we can take it 4000 RPM for 1-2 minutes and when backing down, we get a lean pop from the carb. After another 1.5 hours of carb adjustments, same issue. Next step-> Sounds like a fuel issue, so let's replace the fuel pump and make some more carb adjustments. We take it back out and it's now running a little rough at idle. Also, 3600 RPM and full load, we still get the slow loss of power and pops, but this time after a little longer on the run. This last weekend, we took it out and I can hear a little surging and a little loss when cruising around 3300 with full load. I wonder if this is normal? I'm going to replace the entire fuel line this week and remove the old scanflo fuel consumption sensor and see if there is some sort of fuel restriction going on. Lastly, I did discover the "NEW" Carb that was installed 7 months ago is probably not new. One of the gaskets deteriorated when we made an adjustment. I'm gonna chase down the clowns that sold it to me. If anything sticks out to you all or if you have any recommendations, I'm all ears. ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: February-11-2015 at 4:21pm
I don't know what he meant by this, but here's my comment. The timing is either correct, and advancing correctly to the correct total advanced timing, or it's not. He can't be "convinced" because of some other thing that is happening, the timing light says the timing is right or it's wrong. So having said that, I thought your advance mechanism might not be functioning correctly. I still think that's possible, but that loss of power over time sounds like a different issue. Lack of fuel for sure could cause it, but if it was me I'd still prove out the ignition first. Has the coil been changed? You're spending a lot of time on the carb but if the carb is bringing it up to 4000 rpm and running fine, the carb likely isn't causing the power loss problem a few minutes later. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-11-2015 at 4:35pm
Dan, What was the advance on the timing? The advance has been mentioned several times. What carb adjustments were done? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: February-11-2015 at 4:46pm
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Sorry I wasn't clear. When i say we're convinced the timing is on, I mean that we ended up not putting the light on it because it looks like we are chasing a fuel issue, not a timing issue. This was concluded because it sounds great at all RPM's until the power starts drifting, then we get the lean popping. The carb adjustments on the primary and secondary pushed the backfiring around on the RPM spectrum, so we tried to dial it in. It still feels like it's starving for fuel when the backfiring is about to occur. I have only had the boat for 8 months and the coil hasn't been changed under my watch. I suppose a new coil is quick and relatively cheap to narrow down the issue and it certainly wouldn't hurt to put the timing light on it. I will run through the fuel line, coil, timing, and then check back in. ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-11-2015 at 5:06pm
Start by checking the timing, like we said.  Ignition problems (especially timing) should always be ruled out before moving on to fuel- especially when he symptoms point to an ignition problem. The symptoms you describe are not consistent with a fuel delivery problem. |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: February-11-2015 at 5:09pm
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Like Tim said, it is a pretty basic simple system test it all and you'll find your issue. Much better to KNOW something is right rather than ASSUME it is. Proper run down of an ignition system shouldn't take you long. Do it and know it's right then move to fuel. ------------- |
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: February-11-2015 at 5:16pm
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Message received! ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: February-11-2015 at 5:38pm
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Dan, do you have any pictures you could post of the boat? Would be nice to see the Fish! ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: February-27-2015 at 7:10pm
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All I can say is, you all are the best. And, timing is everything. I pulled the old fuel floscan out of the fuel line, set the timing, and away we went. She sounds great. No issues at all. Thank you all for your comments and help!! ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: jgold
Date Posted: March-07-2015 at 12:05pm
| I have been viewing this site for a long time but never posted anything. I was reading everyone's posts trying to get some information on my own rebuild. But I haven't found the information I am in need of and was wondering if one of you could help me? I have ordered all the parts to rebuild my 351W in my 1983 Nautique. I was told what parts i needed for the reverse rotation motor by SKIDIM. However I am having trouble finding the rear main seal. Mine is a 2 piece and SKIDIM told me that I needed a Felpro 17748 gasket set. In my search I have found that this gasket has been discontinued. Do ya'll know if there is another company that offers a reverse rotation specific 2 piece gasket set for the 351W? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-07-2015 at 12:10pm
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You can use a bidirectional seal on the 2-piece seal style blocks. The reverse rotation specific wick lines are machined in the crank. Only the newer (1-piece) blocks require rotation specific seals, as the associated cranks are smooth. Search for the rebuild thread that Alan (81nautique) put together on his rebuild- it'll tell you all you need to know. |
Posted By: jgold
Date Posted: March-07-2015 at 12:15pm
| Thank you. I will read that thread. |
Posted By: jgold
Date Posted: March-29-2015 at 11:42am
| I finished with my rebuild. What I believe to be true about the rear main seal is that as long as it does not have the gnarls it will not leak. Mine is doing fine. However my engine is running hot at idle speeds. It did this back in 2010 and I bought a new raw water pump from SKIDIM and that fixed it. I just replaced the impeller. I am having a hard time believing that the pump is bad already. Do you think that the water pump on the block could be the culprit? |
Posted By: jgold
Date Posted: March-29-2015 at 11:43am
| I finished with my rebuild. What I believe to be true about the rear main seal is that as long as it does not have the gnarls it will not leak. Mine is doing fine. However my engine is running hot at idle speeds. It did this back in 2010 and I bought a new raw water pump from SKIDIM and that fixed it. I just replaced the impeller. I am having a hard time believing that the pump is bad already. Do you think that the water pump on the block could be the culprit? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-29-2015 at 11:52am
No, I don't feel it's the circ pump. What do you consider hot? Check for air leaks on the suction side of the RWP. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: March-29-2015 at 12:42pm
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Did you replace the thermostat when you did the rebuild? If so, did you replace it with the correct specs? Also, how old is your water pump? Did you do a major rebuild or a just the impeller? Corrosion can build up over time in the bearings and slow your pump. Lastly, you may want to check the risers, intake/ exhaust and manifolds if the easier checks are OK. There's not much else in the cooling system. ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: jgold
Date Posted: March-29-2015 at 12:49pm
| I didn't let the engine go over 200°. |
Posted By: jgold
Date Posted: March-29-2015 at 12:54pm
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(Did you replace the thermostat when you did the rebuild? If so, did you replace it with the correct specs? Also, how old is your water pump? Did you do a major rebuild or a just the impeller? Corrosion can build up over time in the bearings and slow your pump. Lastly, you may want to check the risers, intake/ exhaust and manifolds if the easier checks are OK. There's not much else in the cooling system.) I did not replace the thermostat. However it cools down when running faster than idle. So I would think that would rule out the thermostat. I only replaced the impeller on the raw water pump. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-29-2015 at 1:15pm
This is an indication of an air leak on the suction side of the RWP as I mentioned. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-29-2015 at 1:16pm
Dan, Could you explain the corrosion in bearings slowing the pump? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: March-29-2015 at 1:36pm
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Smooth, clean bearings = smooth bearing and pump performance, dirty bearings = poor bearing performance and hence, poor pump performance. Bearings used in harsh conditions (water) are more susceptible to wear. Don't hold me to the exact times, but the manual states impellers should be replaced every 2 years, and major rebuilds/new pump should be every 4. ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-29-2015 at 1:48pm
I'm confused! You stated "slow your pump". Wouldn't that prematurely wear belts? How does a bearing perform poorly? "Harsh conditions" does that mean you consider a boat to be worse that a car out in the rain and salted roads? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: craigslisthooker
Date Posted: March-29-2015 at 2:24pm
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Have a great day. ------------- dan-ger |
Posted By: jgold
Date Posted: March-29-2015 at 2:41pm
| I pulled the hoses from the lake pick up to the raw water pump off and I believe that hoses from the lake pick up to the strainer and the hose from the strainer to the transmission cooler both need to be replaced. I will keep ya’ll updated |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-29-2015 at 3:33pm
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James, When you replace the hoses, it's recommended to use wire reinforced on the suction side of the RWP. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jgold
Date Posted: April-10-2015 at 10:07pm
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I got the hose and installed it. That helped but I still had a problem. So I installed a new thermostat and put RTV sealant around the strainer gasket. This solved the problem. I really believe that the strainer was the culprit. I am now thinking that I may replace the new 160° thermostat with a 143° one. The boat is running about 190° now. It always ran about 170° before. Thanks ya'll for the help. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-11-2015 at 10:31am
| Yes put the 143 back in. Glad you found the air leak |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-13-2015 at 3:14pm
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your boat should always run right at the thermostat temp when warm. If you are running hotter than your thermostat temp you have an issue with flow that needs to be fixed. The only time my temp creeps up is when something is going bad. I would keep checking for a air leak on the intake side or a blockage on the thermostat side. Many times when a impeller goes bad you will find parts of the bad impeller blocking the flow upstream. They have to be removed to get full flow again. Normally an air leak or a worn impeller will let you run hot at idle but cool down running, either way fix it then enjoy your boating season. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-13-2015 at 7:44pm
Mark, I question the above statement. It has been documented many times here that a hard run will get the temp over the T stat rating. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jgold
Date Posted: April-13-2015 at 10:35pm
| I also question Mark's statement. It just makes sense to me that the motor would be warmer than the thermostat because the thermostat is away from the motor on an inboard engine??? Right where the raw water comes into the little block that is mounted onto the engine's block. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-13-2015 at 11:14pm
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Not sure on the PCM's, I believe they would be the same but in my Holman Moody the water goes thru the block first then out thru the thermostat then dumped into the exhaust. The thermostat sits in the hot water block side. Once the engine reaches operating temp the thermostat never touches cooler water. All conversions being different,mine runs on a good day,no higher than 20 degrees below the thermostat rating. Most likely the reason that later HM's added a circulation pump. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: jgold
Date Posted: April-14-2015 at 12:07am
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Mine is a Commander. It is a lot like a PCM. I believe the little block lets water flow through the intake and out of the exhaust before the engine gets warm. I would think that there are a lot of people on this site with more knowledge about this subject me. Hopefully one of the will explain the block better than I can. |