Hours Question
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34688
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 5:05am
Topic: Hours Question
Posted By: vbatla
Subject: Hours Question
Date Posted: September-25-2014 at 9:35pm
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Hi, I'm new to the forum and have been looking at 1989 Nautiques. I found one in good shape but has over 2500 hours on it. No major work ever performed on the engine or transmission. Question: How many hours can the engine/transmission be run before rebuilding is necessary? thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: September-25-2014 at 9:41pm
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Really depends on how well the engine and tranny were cared for. If the owner did regular oil changes and general maintenance you may be fine. It would be worth the money to have a shop look over the boat prior to buying with that many hours on it. Can you do a basic compression check on the motor? Is the motor clean? What's the asking price? It's a buyers market now and there are plenty of older boats out there for not much money. What's your budget and what model are you looking into, 2001? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: September-25-2014 at 10:59pm
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Thats alot of hours ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: September-25-2014 at 11:28pm
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2500 is a lot of hours but engines are like people, some last longer than others. My dad's the original owner of his '75 Ski Nautique w 351 Waukesha, the predecessor if you will to PCM. He's running an honest 2800-3000 hours on both engine and BW velvet drive tranny. The boats always been run hard but never "put away wet." The engines strong and smooth and doesn't leak nor burn oil, compression is good, tranny I can tell is getting tired, no doubt there's a nano second lag when going into gear. Compression check will show if the engines tired or not. Depending on results, you can tell if it's tired in the heads or the pistons. If the boat looks and feels clean and price is right, I wouldn't turn it away. If it's the original owner chances are in your favor. My recommendation is drive and feel othe Ski Nautiques to compare it to. The engines IMO seem to outlast the transmissions. |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: September-26-2014 at 3:31am
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Thanks for the responses. I'm looking for a 1989 Nautique 2001. The boat mentioned above is still owned by the original owner who claims all oil changes and maintenance were performed as recommended. Was used for slalom skiing only. No party outings. Seems honest, the boat looks well maintained and clean. It's priced in the 9500 area. That's at the top of my range. I'll look into getting the compression checked. Thanks! |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: September-26-2014 at 7:32am
| But at $9500 I'd walk on down to the next Nautique. |
Posted By: RobertV
Date Posted: September-26-2014 at 7:47am
| I agree $9500 is very high. Not sure where you are, but here in the States for that kind of money you can get a 94 or later with under half that many hours. 93 and earlier had wooden stringers that were prone to rot. Give us some more details on where you are and what you want to do with the boat. The members here are fantastic and are extremely helpful. If you are in the US check out the most recent posts on the thread "Interesting Craigslists Finds" |
Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: September-26-2014 at 7:48am
92 and earlier ------------- Brian |
RobertV wrote:Posted By: RobertV
Date Posted: September-26-2014 at 7:51am
Sorry too early in the morning. Thanks for the correction! |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: September-26-2014 at 8:05am
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At $9500 I'd keep looking. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-26-2014 at 11:31am
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At $9,500 it better be very nice, and you better want that year/color boat. Clearly you can get get a newer boat for less money, but that's not necessarily the point. I doubt the owner wants you taking all his spark plugs out so just go drive the damn thing and get a feel for how it's performing. Hopefully you've driven a few other ski boats before. ------------- |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: September-26-2014 at 2:05pm
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Yeah, I was thinking 9500 is pretty steep. I'm looking for something small, easy to move, that puts out a good wake without having to use ballast. 99% of the time my girlfriend and I will be using the boat for wakeboarding. Not looking for a giant party boat. Looking to take out 2 - 4 people at most. Would like to stay around the 5k range. I've read the wake on post 1989 Nautiques isn't as good as the 2001's until the mid 90's sport. Is that correct? Thanks again for your input. I'm in the US and will checkout "Interesting Craigslists Finds" . |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-26-2014 at 2:16pm
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A "2001" wakeboarding wake is better than any newer Ski Nautique. Pics of the girlfriend! ------------- |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: September-26-2014 at 2:50pm
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did you ever say where you were located? I've got a line on an 88 (same hull) in ohio for 6K. I don't know the total history of the boat, but I can get you in touch with the guy. ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: September-26-2014 at 3:01pm
| Really should be able to pick up a clean SN 2001 with a deluxe interior for under 7k. As suggested by others, just add yourself watch list of the "interesting craigslist finds" topic so that you will get email notifications when something new is posted. You can do that by selecting topic options in the upper right of the topic and a drop down will appear then click on "watch this topic". If you are not in a rush you will pick up a good deal. I have found that prices are not that low now, but come December and January you can get a great deal. |
Posted By: Faceplant
Date Posted: September-27-2014 at 12:30am
| I may be interested in that 2001 boat located in Ohio if vbatla doesn't want it . Any more info ? |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: September-27-2014 at 2:38am
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9500!? for a 2500 hour boat...no friggin way. Original owner does not want to sell obviously. ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: September-27-2014 at 2:22pm
| I may have found a good deal on a 1984. I was wanting the 89 but I don't know if I can pass this one up. Is the hull the same? |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: September-27-2014 at 2:27pm
| Yeah same hull, different deck. I actually prefer the 84 over 89 plus you get dual exhaust with 84. |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-07-2014 at 4:18am
| I bought an 89. :) Now the project begins...is there a section in the forum with a basic checklist for someone new to boats? Recommended maintenance? First thing I need to do is change the oil. Is there a particular brand that should be run? I need to check the impeller along with installing a bilge pump. |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: October-07-2014 at 8:23am
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Congratulations on your new boat. Any high zinc oil is good pick one and stay with it. I use Shell Rotella 15/40 diesel Change the oil every 50ish hrs. and at the end of the season. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-07-2014 at 10:36am
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Vince - Since it is new to you, I suggest taking the time to check alignment of the prop shaft. Here is a how to: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21279&title=shaft-strut-alignment-video" rel="nofollow - video ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-07-2014 at 11:14am
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Congratulations and welcome! I ended up going with Mobil 1 high milage on the oil front. This article was informative on the ZDDP topic. http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/oils_and_zddp.pdf" rel="nofollow - ZDDP and Older Automobile Engines Also, here is Mobil 1's product guide for comparison info http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf" rel="nofollow - Mobil 1 Product Guide When you get a chance post pics please 
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Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-07-2014 at 4:59pm
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Thanks for the recommendations! I will definitely check out the drive shaft alignment. I will check out Mobil 1. Is there a particular bilge pump I need to use? I like the idea of an automatic pump. pics coming soon! |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-08-2014 at 1:05pm
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Is this an acceptable bilge pump for the Nautique? http://store.waterpumpsupply.com/rupuau12vodc1.html |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: October-08-2014 at 1:30pm
| I'd step up to at least 800. 500 takes a while to pump. |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-08-2014 at 2:03pm
| Would you go with a Rule pump? |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-08-2014 at 9:35pm
| New development...When turning the ignition key to the on position, nothing happens. When attempting to start the engine there appears to be a direct short. Is there a wiring diagram anywhere online? Looks like the previous owner had a direct line from the battery to the ignition switch. Time to dive into the wiring. Does the 89 Ski Nautique have any fuses? thanks |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: October-08-2014 at 9:44pm
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I don't know if Rule is the best but certainly most popular. I usually stick with same pump as I'm replacing to avoid drilling new holes. Direct short? Can you give more details. There are numerous diagrams on here, maybe in the reference section or FAQ page, I'm not sure. Try googling correct craft fan wiring diagram. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-08-2014 at 10:08pm
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Maybe it's just that the battery has a bad connection or dead. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: October-08-2014 at 11:19pm
of both the boat......and girlfriend. john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-08-2014 at 11:29pm
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Not to worry John, pics of both ;) I put a fully charged battery in. With the switch off there were sparks when attaching the battery terminal. After being hooked up for a few minutes I noticed the coil was very hot. Is that normal? If you jump from positive to the switch, then turn the key to start, the wire becomes extremely hot. Also, the ignition light is on. If I push the button in the wire becomes extremely hot. Like a direct short. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: October-09-2014 at 12:00am
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Hmmm, the coil shouldn't be getting any juice at all to get hot unless the key is on... Here is the 89 Dash diagram to get you started: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/downloads/1989_SN_Wiring_Diagram.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/downloads/1989_SN_Wiring_Diagram.pdf |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: October-09-2014 at 12:04am
| That wire going directly from the key to the battery... which battery terminal is it going to? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: October-09-2014 at 12:14am
Here's the engine side schematic, you'll be needing this too I suspect  
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Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-09-2014 at 12:41am
| Wow. Thanks! This will help tremendously. Should the positive post be on the bow end? There were no markings on the cables. |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-09-2014 at 12:46am
| I was going from the + post on the battery to the switch. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: October-09-2014 at 1:47am
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The next would be to figure out which post on they key the wire is going to. There is a B (battery but it usually comes from the engine not directly from the battery), I for ignition and S for start. The wire should be going fro battery positive to the B on the key. If it's going to the I, that would explain why the coil is always live, but wouldn't necessarily explain why things are getting hot. |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-10-2014 at 3:48pm
| Is there a separate breaker / fuse for the ignition? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: October-10-2014 at 4:52pm
On mine there is... I think there is on an 89 as well. I'm not sure what year they changed over from fuses to push button breakers but I think before 89. So, on mine: -the dash hot feed comes from the engine breaker -Goes to the input side of the dash ignition push button breaker -The output side of the dash ignition push button breaker feeds: *The input side of the key switch *The input side of the horn switch *The input side of the blower switch *The input side of both bilge pump switches (auto and manual) *Maybe the Nav slight switch? *The input side of whatever accessory switches you have |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-13-2014 at 3:43pm
| Thanks! Electrical is all sorted out. Battery installed wrong. ;( Aligned the motor to the drive-shaft. Prop now turns easily. Engine runs great. Changing oil today. I notice a couple gauges have a haze on the inside. Is it possible to dismantle them for cleaning? |
Posted By: AAM196
Date Posted: October-13-2014 at 3:58pm
| Vince, We need pics... |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-13-2014 at 4:23pm
     OK...here are a few pics :) |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-13-2014 at 4:27pm
| going with the same colors for the upholstery (red/white/black) thinking of charcoal for the carpet. |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-13-2014 at 4:31pm
    a few pics taken today |
Posted By: vbatla
Date Posted: October-15-2014 at 4:40pm
| The tranny has a dirty neutral. I unhooked the linkage and there aren't any click positions. The transmission engages forward and reverse but starts to turn to the forward position when in between. Seems a little noisy too. Does the trans need to be reworked? |