Putting Antifreeze in engine mount holes
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34491
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 10:42pm
Topic: Putting Antifreeze in engine mount holes
Posted By: Swansonhomesllc
Subject: Putting Antifreeze in engine mount holes
Date Posted: August-24-2014 at 2:29pm
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I know this is a very touchy subject but wondering on peoples thoughts on putting antifreeze in engine mount holes prior to CPES? After lots of research I have concluded this is a good solution to get some more time before stringers need to be replaced. My method. Antifreeze in holes to soak into wood and act as a bonding agent for the CPES. CPES in holes next. Fill remainder with laminating resin. Drill new holes and replace bolts. The boat appears to have weep holes on stringers in exhaust bay. (you can see them in pic) I am assuming the antifreeze/CPES would wick out those weep holes? Can they be blocked off? Are they really needed? Everyone's comments positive and negative are appreciated!!!! 
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Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-24-2014 at 4:28pm
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I would say that antifeeze would be an anti-bonding agent. A much better approach (without full tearout) would be to take a spade bit & oversize the hole, pulling out as much wood as you can. If you don't get to good wood, stop & prepare to replace the entire stringer. If you do get to good wood, you might try soaking the hole with acetone (dries out wood) then filling the hole with epoxy resin + chopped or milled fiberglass. PS, mark your spade bit with some tape so you don't get carried away & drill thru the hull. Laugh but others have done it! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-24-2014 at 4:50pm
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Cpes already has it's own "bonding" agent from what it's made of. Antifreeze always feels oily to me and never drys completely if you spill some. Don't over think this,if it's rotten it's too late anyway, by the looks of them,they look fine -use it and have fun. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2014 at 5:28pm
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As the others, I feel the antifreeze is a bad idea. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 11:13am
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Where did you get this antifreeze idea? ------------- |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 2:51pm
| And, did your research include and explain the 3 different types of glycol? |
Posted By: Swansonhomesllc
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 3:54pm
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There are lots of articles on the internet supporting the use of antifreeze (ethylene glycol) on wood rot. The attached link is one that is worth reading. http://www.acbs-bslol.com/Gadgets/D97WoodRot.htm Obviously it is always better to replace the wood but if you can gain a few years from a repair it is certainly worth it. I do know that people mist antifreeze on open wood areas annually as preventative maintenance. |
Posted By: audiodude
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 4:32pm
I once read an article which said that fungus is the main cause of wood rot and that Anti freeze or sodium borate were good treatments to prevent fungus  ------------- 1989 Correct Craft 2001 In the words of Milton Berle: "You can lead a man to Congress but you can't make him think" |
Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 5:38pm
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Is it me or does the stringer in the picture look pretty darn good? Where do you see rot? You mentioned that the bolt tightens pretty good, so why do you feel the need to mess with it?? ------------- 05' SV211 TE 73' Martinique had:96' SNOB had:76' Nautique had 77 Tique |
Posted By: Swansonhomesllc
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 6:10pm
| The glass looks good......the wood under it is rotten. The 4 in the rear you can pull out with your fingers. |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 6:21pm
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Joel- Contact TimD. Tim has used a pour-able replacement wood method that is used on off-shore boat transom repair. If you are trying to salvage the mount and gain some time..... it would be worth consideration. I don't really know the product name or its immediate limitations, but it is worth looking into for this limited application. ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 7:07pm
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Sea cast is what I think your thinking of Steve ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 9:38pm
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why wouldnt you over drill it then cpes then an epoxy resin .Then drill for the bolts til you do the stringers. that cpes will penetrate quite a bit stop over thinking it ------------- former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 9:54pm
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Swans link to http://www.acbs-bslol.com/Gadgets/D97WoodRot.htm" rel="nofollow - Bob's Land'O'Lakes Chapter Add this to your http://www.rockler.com/how-to/anti-freeze-is-not-a-green-wood-stabilizer/" rel="nofollow - research I don't believe that Bob Speltz is talking about using this inside encapsulated fiberglass. And, It sounds to me like Bob may be one of the "confused" as described in the other link. |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 10:43pm
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Thanks Gary.... Tim has done some cool repairs with it several years ago. He can tell you about pros and cons. ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: chubbytug
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 1:00pm
| I used the Sea Cast product to repair/replace stringers in a 1990 wellcraft with a 390Hp Big block and it worked very well. I cut just the tops off and removed all of the old wood. Poured in the Sea Cast using the sides as a mold, and then capped off with new Fiberglass. The only downside was the cost as the Sea Cast was rather pricey. |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 1:57pm
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That is my understanding of its use.... the fiberglass at the engine mounts can be left to maintain engine support, rot dug out, and Sea Cast poured in/around..... its like liquid Coosa! (that would explain the cost) Interesting concept............. ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 4:19pm
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does the sea cast give the same rigidity that fir stringers would though? i understand the fiberglass tied to the hull lends some but doesnt the boat flex with wet rotten stringers? seem that the lack of the firs strength would lend to flexing and sea cast and gel cracking . i was always under the assumption that it was for rotten transoms only ------------- former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go |
Posted By: dangerwil
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 4:31pm
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Seacast makes amazing stringers. This guy did a excellent job on an old Arkansas Traveller. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRfiDskBZLE" rel="nofollow - Seacast stringers YouTube |
Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 8:32pm
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amazing is amazing looking? but what i am asking is what is the strength comparison compared to wood . it seems to me that there is a flex and rebound to these hulls with wood stringers , does seacast crack when moved like a bow ( as in bow and arrow) or is the movement negligable ------------- former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 9:14pm
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Coosa is made of sheet fiberglass and foam and is stronger an lighter than wood... it doesn't have an equivalent pourable counterpart that I am aware of. I have no experience with seacast but believe it to be pretty expensive and heavy. Whether it is a good choice for such a repair is probably debatable. Cpes down the holes followed by epoxy resin thickened with a high strength filler would be my method of choice in this case. Cc hulls are thick and small and dont really flex like larger, thinner boats do. I would not (and have not) worried about (re)building a boat "too stiff". Doug fir was sold as a dampening, flexing stringer material and that is probably true, but hollow fiberglass stringers seem to do just fine in Malibus. Cc used a healthy glass schedule over the wood from the 70's forward and I've seen a few boats whose stringers turned to mush and the only strength left was in the overlying glass... And they weren't about to fall apart. Now that the stringers are filled with foam, they seem to be just fine as well. |
Posted By: Swansonhomesllc
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 9:39pm
| I agree with TRB about strength of hollow stringers. My guess is nearly CC boat prior to 93 has rot and will continue to get worse. How many do you actually hear about failing and sinking? I just don't want the engine and trans twisting due to loose lag bolts. Once they are tight again I'll run that mustang for another 5+ years. Will probably be more solid than it's been in 20 years. |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 10:17pm
| I know somebody who uses sea cast for stringers and transoms. I understand Sea cast to be strong, more impact resistant and as far as the flexing.... I don't know if it flexes but even the manufacturer recommends it for stringers and like Tim says, these boats don't flex too much. It's screw retention seems to be like Coosa. At 202$ per 5 gallons seems to be inline with prices as far as I understand. |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 11:16pm
Tim- I was using the "Coosa" analogy as a metaphor...... a "pourable" structural synthetic. While not an engineer, I understand it it not the same. It is reported to not be heavier than the dry wood it is replacing. True, It is expensive - esp. in comparison to antifreeze, and epoxy..... I thought we were discussing options. Sea Cast is a product sold to accomplish the replacement of marine structural wood...... I haven't used it - so I can't praise or bash it. I rec'd the OP contact Tim D for handing and use opinions. ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
TRBenj wrote:Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 11:25pm
| Understood Steve... But there are a whole lot of composites available out there, of which Coosa and seacast are 2 specific brands/products and they appear to have very different composition and properties. Probably best to use the generic term (composite) so as not to confuse the issue. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-27-2014 at 12:17am
It has been documented that the hull starts to show gel cracking where normally it does not occur. When found most seem to stop using before they fall apart  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: August-27-2014 at 12:26am
10-4..... ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-27-2014 at 1:08am
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I thought someone here was going cut the tops off their stringers remove the rotten wood and refill with seacast. I believe Pete told them not to do it,don't remember if they ever went thru with it. Or maybe they did and went down with the ship----- ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-27-2014 at 10:00am
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To me, it seems like digging out the wood within 2 walls would be as much work as slicing the glass at the floor & prying the stringer out. Sure you have to re glass, but then you know you have good adhesion. Maybe peolple are talking about only doing only a small section, in which case 'sistering' would be an alternative. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |