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Trailer Tire advice please

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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34423
Printed Date: May-03-2024 at 8:24pm


Topic: Trailer Tire advice please
Posted By: 74Wind
Subject: Trailer Tire advice please
Date Posted: August-17-2014 at 1:44am
Trailer hasn't moved for 3+years, tires dryrotted and in need of replacement. Current tires ST 175/80 D13.

My understanding is D is bias and R is radial, either will fit, and R is steel belted so potentially safer and longer lasting. I rarely trail my boats but need to soon haul my Century 250 miles roundtrip. After that the trailer will again likely just sit. However.... the boat is a 40 year old original owner family heirloom and the last thing I'd ever do is take even a marginal risk to save a few bucks on something as stupid as tires.

The trailer itself is ugly (galvanized) and the rims uglier, so I'd need nothing fancier than good quality tires installed on new simple galvanized rims.

Comments on D vs R, and a good source?

Thanks









   





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1974 Southwind 18
1975 Century Mark II



Replies:
Posted By: oldcuda
Date Posted: August-17-2014 at 2:38am
D is weight rating I would put Loadstar radial on it rated for 1610 and should handle you're needs fine.Feel the same about my Century and would really kick myself if it got damaged because I cheaped out on tires.



Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-17-2014 at 2:52am
If I recall my D radials are rated for far more than 1610.

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Posted By: oldcuda
Date Posted: August-17-2014 at 3:17am
In a 13? My 15's I think around 2500 not too many D's in 13's.


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-17-2014 at 4:44am
Bias is a totally different sizing convention am I wrong?

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Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-17-2014 at 8:52am
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Bias is a totally different sizing convention am I wrong?


They are.


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-17-2014 at 8:58am
74Wind,
Stick with a heavier tire is my advice. Do you need D's?. No, B's will support you but obviously D is thicker, more air, and will withstand more abuse as in that pot hole you didnt see or the curb you thought you cleared, and they'll be probably only $10 more. Plus in theory better gas mileage. In my experience, after Good Year replaced 13 Marathons on a double axle camper I had, I put Carlisles on and not a problem since.


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-17-2014 at 9:21am
Goodyear marathons are known to do this, they have problems with the belts seperating.

http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/DSC00528.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-17-2014 at 9:36am
Hey!! How'd you get a pic of my 12 tires!?
Funny thing is, last time I checked, Good Year never acknowledged it and the Marathons evidently were the #1 trailer tire.


Posted By: oldcuda
Date Posted: August-17-2014 at 10:03am
I was thinking D weight not D bias always scroll right thru to radial.When I bought my boat it had the original H78-15's on it 25 yrs old took some work to get lugs off but wasn't moving 1 mile with those .Trailers was used about 2 miles a yr since new.Maybe overkill but like to use tires rated for 1000lbs more than needed keeps me from staring at mirrors.


Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: August-17-2014 at 10:13am
I've got Marathons on mine and love them. They've held up well and have been to Tenn twice. NC 3 times, and Fla 5 times. They've seen a lot of miles , still have plenty of tread left and zero issues. Maybe I'm the one of the lucky ones.

Jeff, I'd go with radial over bias ply as IMHO the trailer pulls much better and you don't have the trailer bouncing round like a rubber ball when it is empty. May not be an issue here but my $.02.



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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"


Posted By: SkiSeneca
Date Posted: August-17-2014 at 11:37pm
Just try to find one that's not made in China. It's very difficult these days. The foreign imports are vet cheaply manufactured for many brands.


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-18-2014 at 12:46am
I hear you on that, I understand Goodyear Marathons are Chinese now

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: August-18-2014 at 2:12am
i don't understand why a trailer would bounce around more with bias vs radial.seems more of a pressure issue. i wouldn't worry about what the trailer does when its empty anyways, you should be more concerned with what it does loaded .

I have always run bias on my trailers and have never had issues. They pull fine, they are cheaper and unless you are long hauling a lot there is really no advantage to spending the extra on radials in my opinion, because trailer tires always dry rot before they wear out anyways.
I prefer the bias because they tend to hold up better when I run over a curb or roadkill and they have a little stiffer sidewall and tend to have less pneumatic trail when making tight maneuvers with tandem and triple axle trailers.
And if i were to recommend I would go with NANKANG 100%.
-Tony

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1988 Barefoot nautique-454


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-18-2014 at 5:46am
I feel the bouncing issue is due to over springing the trailers. If they install a 3500 axle, they will install a 3500 spring set no matter what the load is!! I have derated several of my trailers springs to the actual load and it makes a big difference!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

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Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: August-18-2014 at 5:58am
Originally posted by Orlando76 Orlando76 wrote:

Stick with a heavier tire is my advice. Do you need D's?. No, B's will support you but obviously D is thicker, more air, and will withstand more abuse as in that pot hole you didnt see or the curb you thought you cleared

Omg, I will second that as strongly as I can. In addition to our SN2001, we have a large pontoon boat. I had an older trailer that kept blowing tires. I went to a higher load range and still blew one. Then I moved up to Load Range E and didn't have any more problems. I sold that trailer and bought a nicer one, and went ahead and put Load Range F tires on it. So far, so good. They were 87 bucks apiece and 33 bucks for each rim. I would spend it again in a heartbeat. One time I blew two tires on the old trailer (tandem axle) and only had one spare (stupid!). I had to detach the trailer and leave people behind while I drove around to buy more tires. Never again. Not to mention that blowing trailer tires at freeway speeds will wake you up in a hurry. The only issue with the LR-F tires is that they are 110 psi, so I had to go buy that new compressor I've been wanting (aww darn...).


Posted By: skiermanbrad
Date Posted: August-22-2014 at 12:28am
The D can mean different things depending on where it is located.

215/75D14 is a size marking

215 is the nominal width (in millimeters) of the tire
75 is the aspect ratio-The sidewall is 75% as tall as the tire is wide
D is the tire construction: D=diagonal (bias) R=radial
14 is the size rim (in inches) that the tire should be mounted on

If the tire says "Load Range D" that is the amount of weight the tire can carry. It is possible to have both D's on the same tire

Hope this helps, and thus concludes my first post. I've been on this site reading the rebuild posts. I love seeing the pictures of the boats being rebuilt.


Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: August-22-2014 at 1:16am
Steve, never heard of anyone running F rated tires on a small boat trailer! Those have to be so hard it's almost to the point of running solid rubber tires.

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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-22-2014 at 8:42am
I just went to my local Discount Tire to price out some new tires for our trailer. They're currently 10 years old.

They recommended Carlysle RT 225/75R15 (exact size of whats currently on there. They are each rated for 2830lbs.

Here's some load ratings for the Marathons from Tirerack.com








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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: August-22-2014 at 8:14pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

Steve, never heard of anyone running F rated tires on a small boat trailer! Those have to be so hard it's almost to the point of running solid rubber tires.

I know, David, it seems crazy but so far I love the tires. It's a big pontoon, weighs in over 4500 lb with the trailer. The tires are rock solid, which is fine because the suspension seems about perfect. The only issue I've had is the leaf springs squeak. I read some forums about it and sprayed them with some farm equipment lube, can't recall exactly what it was called, didn't do a thing. I've got a grease gun needle somewhere, so I might try injecting some grease between the leaves after jacking up the trailer. Not too high on my list, though...


Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: August-22-2014 at 10:26pm
Buy an aerosol can of white grease with the tube that goes into the nozzle for pinpoint spraying. Do your best to separate the leaves a bit and spray some in. I think there's a better chance of that thin grease flowing in than with a regular grease gun and needle. Maybe even just spray from the side while someone jumps up and down on the trailer to "work" the leaves.

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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique


Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: August-23-2014 at 11:06am
I'm a bit confused. JPASS chart shows 13in C trailer use at capacity 1360 lbs. Per original Century brochure boat gross weight is 2810 lbs.

Boat originally had no trailer. Years ago m bro had an axle break on his Sutphen trailer so picked up this old trailer in VA mid-trip. So, no idea on specs or capacity, but it did make the trip from NY to GA and a few shorter trips since without incident.

Is it tire capacity per tire, or times 2? Gotta add both boat and trailer weight together? Any idea what a trailer such as this weighs?





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1974 Southwind 18
1975 Century Mark II


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-23-2014 at 11:48am
It would drive me crazy to tow an inboard without a prop guard . . .

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: August-23-2014 at 12:09pm
That trailer looks pretty light to me, maybe too lightweight for the boat, but obviously it's done the job so far. I agree, no prop guard = great fear for me! I'd guess the trailer weighs 800 lbs.

Tire weight rating is per tire, and you have to add boat and trailer weight together.

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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-23-2014 at 12:36pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

Tire weight rating is per tire, and you have to add boat and trailer weight together.

correct.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: August-23-2014 at 7:06pm
Yeah, prop guard would be nice, but I rarely ever tow. After this move it'll probably just sit for years again...

My SW trailer also has no prop guard, nor my bro's factory CC trailer.
Were there prop guards 40 years ago?

So if I understand correctly, Ideally I'd need load capacity per tire of 3610 lbs. (boat 2810 plus trailer guess 800) if there is such a thing in this size. The only thing I find anywhere in 175/80R13 is load range C 1360 lbs. What range letter do I need and can anyone tell me where I might find them in this size, on rims?








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1974 Southwind 18
1975 Century Mark II


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-23-2014 at 8:54pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

It would drive me crazy to tow an inboard without a prop guard . . .


Keep in mind, the older CC's sat higher on the trailer. Flat bottom, unlike '82 and later. Out of thousands of miles, BT dad and I, only 1 bent rudder and that's from dad hot rodding thru a 4 way, truck goes up which pushes tail of boat down. Retard move. But I'd only be comfortable with a   CC/Ramlin trailer.


Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: August-24-2014 at 12:40am
Originally posted by 74Wind 74Wind wrote:

So if I understand correctly, Ideally I'd need load capacity per tire of 3610 lbs. (boat 2810 plus trailer guess 800) if there is such a thing in this size. The only thing I find anywhere in 175/80R13 is load range C 1360 lbs. What range letter do I need and can anyone tell me where I might find them in this size, on rims?

I looked on one of the trailer parts sites, found some tires in your size in load range D. Some are rated 1,610 lbs., some 1,725 lbs., think that's highest rating you're going to find in your size. One option is to move up to 14" wheels in the same 5 bolt pattern, they would give you the added load capacity you're looking for. They might not fit under the fenders the way they are set up now, but it's easy to move that style of fender up a bit to provide clearance for the larger tires. The trailer already carries the boat pretty high, but doubt the extra tire height would affect launch/retrieve enough to be a problem. Just a thought.

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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique


Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: August-24-2014 at 12:48am
Originally posted by 74Wind 74Wind wrote:

So if I understand correctly, Ideally I'd need load capacity per tire of 3610 lbs. (boat 2810 plus trailer guess 800) if there is such a thing in this size.

I meant to also say - no, you need load capacity per tire of around 1,800 lbs. to cover the total 3,600 lb. boat/trailer. Also, curious if someone else here can let us know if I'm right about that trailer weight.

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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique


Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: August-24-2014 at 6:15am
For a single axle trailer (two tires total), take ( boat + trailer ) / 2, then add whatever extra safety makes you comfortable. So 1800 lb per tire plus whatever makes you sleep well, if that trailer weight is right (if you have CAT scales nearby it's easy to get the weight attached to the hitch and detached). Now in reality, your hitch should be carrying something like 15% of the total weight, but I wouldn't figure that in.

Ok, I'm sure I'll be roundly flamed, but for what it's worth, my used CC trailer came with car tires on the trailer. I said I would replace them as soon as I could, but they've done fine. They run pretty close to the fenders, but no evidence on the tires of any contact. I bring it up because it sounds like you're going to tow all of one time in the next few years. Maybe used car tires would make sense... but you have to make the call.

Ok, flame away! I can take it.


Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: August-24-2014 at 6:28am
btw, maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see a stop on the front of that trailer. What stops the boat if you have to slam on the brakes at high speed? The transom straps won't. That could get really ugly.


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-24-2014 at 7:11am
Steve, you are asking for trouble! But seriously, for years I couldn't convince dad to run trailer tires, he'd often run car tires and no problems. I wouldn't do that but hey, that's why I bought my own so I can call my own shots.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2014 at 9:13am
Originally posted by boardersdad boardersdad wrote:



Ok, I'm sure I'll be roundly flamed, but for what it's worth, my used CC trailer came with car tires on the trailer. I said I would replace them as soon as I could, but they've done fine. They run pretty close to the fenders, but no evidence on the tires of any contact. I bring it up because it sounds like you're going to tow all of one time in the next few years. Maybe used car tires would make sense... but you have to make the call.

Ok, flame away! I can take it.

I have run car tires on several trailer and have NEVER has a problem!!!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: August-24-2014 at 12:20pm
Originally posted by boardersdad boardersdad wrote:

btw, maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see a stop on the front of that trailer. What stops the boat if you have to slam on the brakes at high speed? The transom straps won't. That could get really ugly.


It used to have another layer of boards custom cut to the hull contour that held it tight, took them off because it rode too high for the more gradual shallow ramps here in GA. Now plan to retrofit a new-style CC bowstop from Zach.

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1974 Southwind 18
1975 Century Mark II


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-24-2014 at 12:58pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


I have run car tires on several trailer and have NEVER has a problem!!!

You don't go anywhere

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport



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