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'63 American Skier in Colorado

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31714
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 2:45pm


Topic: '63 American Skier in Colorado
Posted By: cbdenco
Subject: '63 American Skier in Colorado
Date Posted: October-06-2013 at 12:55am
Hello, I've joined the ranks
She's been a Colorado, one owner boat, her whole life. I'm looking forward to getting her back on the water with help from the wisdom on this site! Let the journey begin
[
IMG]uploads/14368/Dearbo_C-1_drive_63_CC_American_SKier.jpg[/IMG]



Replies:
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: October-06-2013 at 1:15am
KC,
NICE FIND!!! Your 'skier looks to be in pretty good shape. Doesn't look like it will take a lot to get her back in the water. do you know what hp the Interceptor is?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier

62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-06-2013 at 2:20am
Hi Steve,
Thanks, it's the 215hp




It has had a new long block at some point. (different paint color) The original owner passed away, it was bought at an estate sale by a gentleman that lives near me. I drove past it sitting on the back of his property for months. He was asking too much for it I suppose. We had a freeze warning forecast a couple days ago and I knew the boat had to be holding some water with the epic rains we've had. Long story short I traded a motorcycle and a little cash, shop vac'd maybe 40 gallons of water out of the hull and saved her from the hard freeze. It's the original floor (repainted) except just behind the dog house and the piece between the engine and the battery. Stringers are solid, but but there is some de-lamination on the outer ones. I'll take more pics later, I sure need some advice on proper repairs.


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: October-06-2013 at 10:33am
Welcome to CCF. What a great find. The steering wheel even looks really good. That boat will fly with that 312. Keep posting pics.


Posted By: Waldo
Date Posted: October-06-2013 at 11:08am
I agree really nice find. Congrats!!!

Waldo


Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: October-06-2013 at 11:32am
A couple things of interest. Your 'skier has a steering column instead of a Teleflex. Also has a "Correct Craft" dash emblem. Mine has an "American Skier" emblem. Wonder how many A.S. had a dash shifter? Most seem to have a floor shifter.

What is the 2nd gauge from the left? Looks like its been replaced? What is it?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier

62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 89Martinique
Date Posted: October-06-2013 at 3:13pm
Nice find! Also, good job on saving it!    Poor thing would have been a night mare if you hadn't come along...

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Current Boats:

1992 Supra Comp-TS6M PCM 351w HO Pro Boss Pro-Tec Ignition - Full Composite (no wood stingers!)

1989 (3rd Gen) Correct Craft Martinique B/R PCM 351w Power Plus

1984 E-Scow

Keuka Lake,


Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: October-06-2013 at 4:14pm
Nice boat KC!! Welcome to the site!! Looking forward to seeing her all cleaned up and on the water!

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83Ski


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-06-2013 at 8:05pm
Thank you for the kind words and welcome! The second gauge over is a temp gauge, I would like to find an original.
But that is low on the list, she looks ok from 10 feet away, but close ups show she is a little worse for the wear.
More pics coming soon, I have lots of questions too. Thanks to all in advance.


Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: October-06-2013 at 11:28pm
Hey Marty, Check out the tach in KC's boat!

As for the temp gauge, I ordered a new SW mechanical gauge for my 64.
They make one with (I think) a 15 foot long sender. It is VERY close to the original gauge with an electric sender. My 64 is in storage but, I think it is the gauge just left of my tach...
http://s37.photobucket.com/user/kten72/media/64%20American%20Skier/IMAG0095_zpsbd1ee82d.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier

62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 1:12am
My '63 has the dash shifter, but with my LH rotation Buick the wheel is on the left, shifter to the right of it. My original tach is just like that one, stopped working and I never repaired it.

Very nice boat, congrats on the purchase, it's going to be fun!

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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 2:18am
Thanks for the info on the temp gauge Steve. Your '64 looks sweet! I see now the difference with the steering column. Did you replace your windshield, it's so clear. Mine is bent from people using it to pull themselves up from the seat I believe.




The great news is…. I got it started! I think it's been sitting since '09, thats the last registration tag. The fuel tank smelled pretty bad. I drained it and this is what came out.

Anybody know why it's green??
I drained the fuel pump bowl and pulled the front carb bowl cap thinking I'd find green fuel. But, it was dry!! Reassembled, dropped the fuel line in a fresh 5 gallon. Cleared some fresh fuel through the pump into a bucket, reattached the fuel line. Cranked for maybe 30 seconds and it fired right up! Man am I happy! Sounds better than I imagined it would!
The bad news is I can't find neutral, prop is either spinning forward or reverse. (Any ideas/thoughts much appreciated)
Here are some close ups, needs work
Hull damage, spent the summers tied to a dock on Lake Loveland








Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 10:29am
KC,
I didn't replace the windshield. When I got the boat you could hardly see thru it, especially if you were heading into the sun. I had nothing to lose so I wet sanded and buffed it ... just like clear coat on paint. I'm very happy with the way it turned out.

You might try "bending" the top molding a bit? Not sure with the windshield off,if you could gently use a heatgun to help bring the windshield back to the original shape? Maybe someone else will chime in with other ideas?


My secondary stringers were only rotted in a couple of spots at the top edge. I sistered 3/4 boards along side the originals and made all new floor support purlins. Capped it with 5/8" BC plywood for the floor. [


http://s37.photobucket.com/user/kten72/media/64%20American%20Skier/AmericanSkier008.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/kten72/media/64%20American%20Skier/AmericanSkier009.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

Do you know what trans is in the boat? I wouldn't worry a lot yet about the "dirty neutral". Mine has a Paragon gear box on the trailer you can not feel any neutral and it will spin when the motor is running. In the water it does spin a bit, but not enough to be a problem. Be careful running it this way.. it can burn up the cutlass bearing. I wrap a strip of inner tube around the shaft and use a vise grip to hold the shaft from turning if I need to do any "running engine" work.


.



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier

62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 10:52am
Here's a SW gauge with http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Stewart-Warner-82326-144-Water-Temperature-Gauge-Kit-25030-/360740784660?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53fdd38a14&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow - 144" cap tube.


another with a shorter http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stewart-Warner-82210-1-144-Temperature-Gauge-100-250-F-Black-NEW-/330935454618?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0d4a4b9a&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow - dial sweep. (good price!)

I have never found any original style gauge with a lower range.. 100 to 250 really isn't needed. You will probably run in the 140 -150 area. but either of these are pretty close to originals.

.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier

62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 1:34pm
From a glimpse of the rear exhaust picture, it looks like a Dearbo transmission. It's got an oil cooler, so is it a model C?


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 2:48pm
I wonder if that is aviation fuel?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 4:06pm
Originally posted by 62 wood 62 wood wrote:

Hey Marty, Check out the tach in KC's boat!


Yes! Saw that in his pics. Also same steering wheel with the infamous 'Ship's Wheel' center cap

Great Boat and Find KC !!

The BoatDr on the site is the 312 Guru!


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66 Skylark
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN
If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out!


Posted By: 70CC
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 7:13pm
Very cool original boat. I trailered your boats big brother, a 63 Ski Nautique with the same colors back from Denver a few years ago.

Steve, Marty, or anyone else do you have any leads on a similar tach? I'd love to have one like the one in this boat.

-Phil


Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 8:08pm
Phil,
I had an NOS tach, still in the box, just like the one in KC's 63. We weren't 100% sure of the year or application, now we know.

Marty is now the proud owner of it.

I would have used that tach in my 64 if I had it at the time I restored the boat. It originally had a cable drive tach, but it was long gone when I bought the boat. I had an NOS "Interceptor" tach that I ended up using. I had to cut the hole larger to fit this one.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier

62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 9:48pm
Originally posted by 62 wood 62 wood wrote:

I had an NOS "Interceptor" tach that I ended up using. I had to cut the hole larger to fit this one.

Steve, I suddenly don't feel quite so bad, I thought I was the only one that put a larger tach in! When I was 19 or 20, seeing that the tach no longer worked, I bought a generic one and hole sawed the dash to install it. I used to have the piece I sawed out, if I find it I might try to re-install the original tach.

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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique


Posted By: Alex47
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 10:41pm
Great find!

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5444&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1977 Ski Tique


Posted By: chuckactor
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 11:00pm
I think Gary S is correct. 100 octane av-gas is green. A local boater here in Colorado says he fills his boat with Av-gas as part of the winterization process. I guess because it's ethanol free. Since the boat is from the area, my guess is whoever had it did the same.

Chuck


Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 11:31pm
100 LL (low lead) av-gas is actually light blue. 100 Av gas is green. 100 LL has a lead content of up to .56 grams/litre. 100 has lead content of 1.12 grams/litre.

That 312 was designed to run on leaded gas, so maybe that is why the previous owner was running it. It's a good idea, but at $5-$6.00 per gallon, VERY expensive...

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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: October-07-2013 at 11:32pm
Originally posted by MartyMabe MartyMabe wrote:

Also same steering wheel with the infamous 'Ship's Wheel' center cap


I am going to end up buying a damn boat to get one of those center caps...

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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-08-2013 at 1:43am
Wow, thanks for the wealth of knowledge in the reply's. I'll try that process with this windshield for sure.
Great lead on the temp gauge. Yes it is a Dearbo Model C

It seems like there should be a detent at neutral on the shifter. But it does not have one.
I have read the adjustment procedure in the Interceptor Manual, I wonder if that would help "define" the neutral?
Interesting about the fuel as well. I'm wondering what all was done with the long block work. It was winterized properly near as I can tell.
It's great getting all the input and history from you all. Thank you.
Here's the stamp on the trailer as well



Any ideas what would have been mounted on the stern here


More pics


Posted By: turningpoint84
Date Posted: October-08-2013 at 12:53pm
If i were a guessing man i'd say fake air intake scoops were mounted on the stern.

Does the boat have a blower? How did this thing get fresh air?

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Proud 1968 mustang owner and now
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6454&sort=&pagenum1" rel="nofollow - 1970 Mustang


Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: October-08-2013 at 1:05pm
Originally posted by turningpoint84 turningpoint84 wrote:

If i were a guessing man i'd say fake air intake scoops were mounted on the stern.

Does the boat have a blower? How did this thing get fresh air?


Foot print is too small for fake air intake scoops, I am guessing it was more likely a ladder. The foot print more closely matches a ladder. It likely would have been "borrowed" from a newer model.

No blowers in those early 60's boat. Operating procedure was to "air out" the bilge by opening the dog house. Plenty of air circulates up under the front deck, down under the floor and up to the carbs in the dog house to run the engine.

Dad installed front and rear after market scoops early to improve ventilation, but NO electric blowers...

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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: October-08-2013 at 1:18pm
Try disconnecting the cable from the transmission. We have 2 Dearbo C's and there is no detent like a Velvet Drive, but you can clearly feel it shifting in and out of neutral.


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: October-10-2013 at 7:57am
Like the red and white combination, going to be nice.


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-11-2013 at 11:50am
I removed the front section of floor the other day. I found an old compass and a plastic bag (treasure?) embedded in 50 years of muck.


Now I have a spare key!

I've been researching all I can about the Interceptor. CCF has the vast majority of info it appears. I can't believe there isn't more resources on the web! Parts are a big problem! For instance, a water pump rebuild kit. Maybe I'm just not looking in the right place?
I also started cutting away the delaminated fiberglass on the outer stringers since it's a perfect pocket for holding water.

So far the wood looks great. But again I'm not finding much in the proper way to prep and repair. Whats the best way to clean the old fiberglass?


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 2:28am
I gave the old girl a needed transfusion today and re-winterized as well

I'm not sure if this is an original idea or not, but it's something I came up with for changing the oil filter on my Harley (which lays horizontal as well) without making a huge mess. I use three layers of foil and create a pan / funnel. Easy and no mess!





I also think I have found the correct info for the water pump on the Interceptor 312. I believe it is a Sherwood M-10270-G

I'll be sure when I get it pulled apart. Looks like the major repair kit is available.


Posted By: Smithfamily
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 9:54am
That's a good idea with the foil on a filter change!! I always use a couple of rags and Never catch all the spillage! I am due for a change and will try, thanks.

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Js


Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 10:23am
I have never seen a remote oil filter mount like that on a marine 312, interesting...

Another resource for the http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/forumdisplay.php?13-Ford-Interceptor-Marine-Engine-Forum/page2&s=06a382281c834377cff8f7059f3014aa" rel="nofollow - Interceptor engines

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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 10:26am
KC,
It's great that you changed the oil but you used the wrong stuff!! You want to use a oil with ZDDP. Valvolene VR1 is my choice on all my old flat tappet engines including my 312 Y block. I highly suggest you do another change before the cam is ruined. RR cams for the 312's are VERY hard to find.

BTW, I just put a baggie over the filter when removing it.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Smithfamily
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 10:34am
A baggie!! Now I am actually excited for this oil change!!

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Js


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 10:57am
Dang! I hate being a newbie! Peter, what do you think of this as an option?


Thanks for the link Steve!

PS Fellow CCF (ers) with older Skiers, please post more pics. The diary pics are too small. Need more closeups     Thanks!!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 11:24am
KC,
I've never been a fan of additives but you can try it if you want too. I'd just change out the oil again since you aren't talking much $$. Typically a additive costs as much as a couple quarts of oil.

BTW, the only additive I keep around is Marvel Mystery but that's for other reasons than anti wear.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 11:37am
Good point. Thanks Peter.


Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 3:35pm
If you are looking for a source for Sherwood Pump stuff, Depco Pump in Clearwater, FL has everything imaginable for Sherwood pumps. They are a Sherwood distributor. If it's totally obsolete, they can suggest a retrofit.

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"Art"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 5:17pm
Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:

If it's totally obsolete, they can suggest a retrofit.

The impeller is not obsolete. It's a very common size. The pump on the 312 is a dual cavity. I just changed mine out several years ago.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: john b
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 7:08pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

KC,
I've never been a fan of additives but you can try it if you want too. I'd just change out the oil again since you aren't talking much $$. Typically a additive costs as much as a couple quarts of oil.

BTW, the only additive I keep around is Marvel Mystery but that's for other reasons than anti wear.

+1, use the proper oil.
Those Y blocks are so sweet! Maybe it's just me but they seem to have a distinctive sound. I love hearing them in the old T-Birds too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr41wSYdsNI" rel="nofollow - Beautiful Y Block sound

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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!



Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 7:36pm
I've used the baggie method for many years now, works very well. I always feel like engineers that build oil filter mounts anything but facing down must have never changed their own oil!

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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique


Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 10:07pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:

If it's totally obsolete, they can suggest a retrofit.

The impeller is not obsolete. It's a very common size. The pump on the 312 is a dual cavity. I just changed mine out several years ago.


Pete, I was thinking more in terms of the major rebuild kit or the entire pump than of the impellers. If it's one of the pumps pumps with two identical impellers, they are the same ones used in the G21 pump, found on the PCM Fords. The part # is PCM RP061015 or Sherwood 9959.

"SEVERAL years ago??????" You believe in living on the edge, don't you? I recommend that folks change impellers once a year -- it's the cheapest insurance you can buy! :)
Art

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"Art"


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-13-2013 at 10:20pm
Art,Pete changes impellers when he changes points,whether he needs one or not

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: 89Martinique
Date Posted: October-14-2013 at 12:18am
you should try one of the silicone impeller from globe! our impeller from 1995 is still good!

-------------
Current Boats:

1992 Supra Comp-TS6M PCM 351w HO Pro Boss Pro-Tec Ignition - Full Composite (no wood stingers!)

1989 (3rd Gen) Correct Craft Martinique B/R PCM 351w Power Plus

1984 E-Scow

Keuka Lake,


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 9:53am
I worked on cleaning the stringer / bilge area yesterday and stripped deck parts for fiberglass work.



Looking for opinions / knowledge on a couple of things.
Best way to pull the steering wheel? It's already cracked and I really don't want to break it

Is the dash emblem glued on or does it set with pin holes? Because there are no nuts on the back side.
Again, I don't want to break it.

Also, anybody know what this decal on the intake was / said originally?


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 10:09am
It looks like the factory had to cut two floor support purlins for exhaust routing with this engine.
(the fiberglass pulled away from the stringer was done by someone else looking at the boat before I acquired it)



Are all original stringers mahogany?


Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 11:17am
Dang! I had this written and accidentally pushed "Backspace" and deleted it! Here we go again:

It is likely that the stringers are clear fir. However, in those days of operating in bankrptcy, if there was mahogany in the stockroom and we would have had to buy fir, the priority was to not spend $$. I have to say, your photo does look like maghogany. Have someone who knows woods have a look. All I know for sure is that you don't want to use pine.

The spots where the woven roving is missing look like perhaps the floor support originally extended to the main stringer and someone cut ot the portion over the exhaust well and didn't patch the glass back in. My guess is that the hull was built for some other engine and they had to cut the support out to accomodate the 312. It looks as though the plywood bulkheads in the front of the exhaust were put in later.

I have an owner's manual for a 1965 312. The decal on the intake manifold reads as follows:

Recommended owner procedure for
FIRST 25 HOUR INSPECTION CHECK (this line in large bold print)
Ignition timing -- use timing light   (Strange; no spec shown!)
Set valve clearance -- .020    (my '65 had an alternator)
Set spark plug gap -- .030
Set distributor points -- .018
Tighten generator belt   
Tighten engine mounts
Align engine
Change oil
Firing order: 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2

When I first started on this site, someone had a photo posted of a really beautiful restoration of a 312. All the decals had been replicated and it looked 100% original, exact color paint and all.   

I have two and a half 312s which I hope to make into one restored one. Please let me know if you find a source for the replica decals.

If you want a copy of my owner's manual, I will be happy to copy it and mail it to you. I don't have a scanner good enough to do it and I don't know how to post attachments on this site. I could take it to Kinko's / FedEx and have it done on a professional scanner and email it to you. Let me know. PM me please.   

Art

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"Art"


Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 11:24am
Oh! .....The dash emblem! It has pins cast onto the back side of it. No barbs or threads. It is simply pushed into the holes. If you are lucky, they would have drilled all the way through the dash, and you can take a small drift punch (or a small nail) and put it into the holes under the dash and CAREFULLY back them out. Just a bit at a time, alternating between pins. There are usually two.

You might be aware that I have a supply of replicated "Correct Craft" script emblems that were on the rear quarter on the hull. Details are under "Boat parts for Sale." Search "metal emblems."

Art

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"Art"


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 11:29am
Steve Hilpshe makes repro Interceptor decals. I've bought several set of them. Very good quality. I can post a link to his site tonight or you can search for him at marineengines.com


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 11:43am
Thanks for all the info Art!!! I will PM you.
The bankruptcy theory makes perfect sense. I'm sure the wood is mahogany, I've been in construction way too long. I've installed some mahogany entrance doors, that's why I was surprised to see it. It's so expensive these days(I understand it all comes from South America now, which was the low end stuff back then), but they used it like crazy for everything back in the day.
That would also explain why I have a steering column instead of a teleflex. And the CC emblem instead of American Skier on the dash. And the hull not made for the 312……..but then I see from the reference section that the 312 was not on the option list for the AS line. Must have been a special order?
Thanks again, so much history I'd like to know on this great survivor.


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 1:02pm
When you pm Art,give him the serial number too. When he gets a chance maybe he can look it up for you.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 1:21pm
Your steering wheel is repairable. Mine actually had part of the hub broken off and missing. I made a cardboard "dam" and used epoxy to build it back up.

Before.....





After repair...
http://s37.photobucket.com/user/kten72/media/64%20American%20Skier/IMAG0095_zpsbd1ee82d.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">



I did have to make a "bottom puller plate" since the wheel hub has no screw holes for the puller to thread into. I cut a pc of steel a little smaller than the hub diameter. Then notched a slot to clear the steering shaft. Drill and tap the plate to accept bolts from the puller. Drill the holes so the bolts go thru the existing hub slots. Slide this on the bottom of the hub and use the center bolt in the puller against the steering shaft to gently pull the wheel. I took a few days and sprayed the fitting with lube and keep increasing pressure a bit each day.




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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier

62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique


Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 1:48pm
We used a lot of mahogany in the wooden boats, and they were just being replaced by glass in '63. After the WWII years, mahogany was nearly impossible to find, but through some of his ministry connections, W.O. Meloon was able to go to the Phillipines and make arrangements to buy it in large quantities, so we became one of the few boatbuilders that could get it.

As Gary said, I can try to find some history on your boat if you want. Our 1963 records are very hit-and-miss, so I would say there is about a 50-50 chance of my finding the info. I guess you know where the hull number plate is; on the port-side stringer between the front and rear enigine mounts.

In those days, again due to the bankruptcy and need for $$, we would make almost anything that a buyer wanted. Many boats were started as one model and converted to another. For example, some years the Mustang and the AmSk were the same hull, different deck. If a customer wanted one or the other, the sales guys would tell them that whatever was ready to go could be finished out as the other model. That is partly the reason there is such a hodgepodge of hardware on the classic boats. Also the fact that we used whatever was in the stockroom.

I love the old mechanical steering systems. Wish we still used them. No slack, no lost motion, and they always steer with very little effort. I had a boat that the owner had put a very heavy steering wheel on, and you could "throw" the wheel and let it spin lock-to-lock at docking speeds.
Art      

-------------
"Art"


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 3:01pm
Thanks Steve, that's along the same lines as I was thinking to get the wheel off. Nice repair!

Interesting history Art! You've made really happy that I have the old gearbox style.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 4:42pm
Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:



"SEVERAL years ago??????" You believe in living on the edge, don't you? I recommend that folks change impellers once a year -- it's the cheapest insurance you can buy! :)
Art

Art,
The new impellers were more that 20 years old!!    I installed them before I brought the X55 to GL. The old ones looked pretty damn good for their age and I never had a cooling issue. I even posted pictures in a thread. The vanes had some set to them but showed no signs of wear and as Gary mentioned, I went the same # of years on a point set.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: john b
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 4:48pm
That is a wonderful boat you have there and it is really bringing out some good stories. I hope to be able to follow the progress on the thread and learn a bit more history of CC.


-------------
1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!



Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 4:54pm
KC,
A PO has hacked up the fuel line between the two YH carbs. It should be hard piped. I HIGHLY recommend hard piping before you end up with fuel in the bilge.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: October-20-2013 at 10:25pm
Interceptor decals

http://a2d-designs.com/" rel="nofollow - http://a2d-designs.com/



Posted By: 70CC
Date Posted: October-21-2013 at 1:20pm
Is it possible that the secondary stringers were added at a later time? My 63 Nautique which is a wider boat, did not originally have secondary stringers but they were added by the P.O.

-Phil


Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: October-21-2013 at 1:56pm
70 CC, are you talking about the 1-by stringers that run about a foot outside and paralell to the main stringers? They were there primarily to support the floorboards. I have never seen an older boat that didn't have the secondary stringers until the days post-1970 when the floor consisted of glass over the foam.

Are you sure the PO didn't simply replace them? The '63 SN that I have certainly has them. Do you have the hull number of yours? Mine is 1365.

-------------
"Art"


Posted By: 70CC
Date Posted: October-21-2013 at 5:25pm
Hi Art,

This is Phil (70CC) with the FE powered'63 Nautique. We've talked a few times over the phone. Hull number is SN1403.
I am talking about the same stringers you describe above. I thought I remembered the PO telling me that he added the secondary stringers, but maybe he actually replaced them.


Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: October-21-2013 at 11:08pm
Phil, I think my brain is getting rusty. You got me at "FE powered." I'm really going to feel stupid if it means something that should've been obvious to me.
Art

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"Art"


Posted By: john b
Date Posted: October-21-2013 at 11:24pm
Ford FE engines. Big blocks like the 352, 360, 390, 427 from the late 50s - early 70s

-------------
1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!



Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: October-22-2013 at 9:33am
Now I know more than I did before I read this! Thanks!
Art

"Every day of your life you learn something, even if you don't try."

-------------
"Art"


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: October-26-2013 at 11:45pm
I made good progress on the deck today.
I'm happy with how the 50 year old gelcoat buffed out.
I wetsanded 1000, 1200, then buffed with 3M Super Duty Compound and polished with Starbright Marine Polish. Some deep scratches were cleaned up with 500 grit first.


She is cleaning up so well that I have decided not to get super extensive in the restoration. Sure, she could use a complete re-gel below the water line and maybe that will be on the list next winter. But for now only the worst damage will be repaired and all structural needs will be addressed. Then it'll be a continuation of the cleanup and on the water asap. Should be a nice "all original daily driver". The nicks and scratches that remain will be badges of character on a true survivor.



Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: October-27-2013 at 1:55am
KC, agreed... its only original once! Looking Good!!!!!!!


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier

62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-27-2013 at 2:35am
Nice work!

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: October-27-2013 at 10:04am
The deck looks great!


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: October-27-2013 at 10:35am
Love the red and white, looks great.


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: November-13-2013 at 2:06am
I've been in contact with the original owners daughter due to some title issues on the trailer. She may have some older photos and history to add! How cool is that? She was part of a ski club on Lake Loveland and traveled all over the US with her parents competing! You Gotta Love That !


Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-13-2013 at 11:02am
That's interesting. I might have met her parents somewhere while skiing tournaments in the '60s through '80s. If you want, PM me their names. I'm sure they knew some of the Colorado skiers that I know.

-------------
"Art"


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: July-02-2014 at 2:34am
Hi All! Wow, where has the time gone! I was sure hoping to be further along than I am. But now the big push is on for the weekend after next to get on the water. I would like to find some replacement step pads, but the ones from N3 don't look like they'll fit my angled frames. Does anyone know a source for the ones I have?

I am also trying to source a stern light and don't know what I am looking for since the one that was on it was broken and obviously a replacement from some time in the past. Were they adjustable or fixed?
I had her running today, I will search how to post a video ASAP.
The new temp gauge works great.

The tach doesn't work, I was hoping it was a loose connection somewhere but no luck. It looks like Westach still makes a similar model but I'd loose the CC face.
That's all for now. Thanks in advance
PS Thanks Art! I did receive the copy of the manual. Great info! Hope all is well!


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: July-02-2014 at 2:52am
Hopefully this works
http://starbright.smugmug.com/Boats/Correct-Craft/i-zWLBcwG/A" rel="nofollow - '63 American Skier 312 Y-Block


Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: July-02-2014 at 3:33am
I'd used an old automotive tach for a while and mount it on the steering column. A few of us have had tachs rebuilt. (good fall/winter job) I would sure check into that to keep the CC logo. Dale Kocian in WI did the tach in my 73 SN.

On my stern light , I "built" mine from some old ones I had laying around. Watch good ol Ebay. Use "vintage stern light" / or "old stern light" in boat parts for starters. Might try replacing the word stern with anchor in your search as well. Can you make a temporary one out of a newer light to get you by for now? Not the best detailed pic, but here is the one I made out of old parts...
http://s37.photobucket.com/user/kten72/media/64%20American%20Skier/Summitlake06091.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

Speaking of Ebay .. these look like the same style .. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Vintage-Boat-White-Chrome-Step-Pads-Jervis-Marine-Hardware-No-65102-G2-/181454757198?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item2a3f8bdd4e&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow - step pads Only two of them, but I'd jump all over these for the price!   Plus, you at least know the manny and part number to continue your search.

btw.. looking (and sounding) GREAT!!!   


.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier

62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique


Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: July-02-2014 at 10:17am
Great-looking boats, guys. I'm pretty sure the tach is an Ongaro brand name. The CC badge might have been applied over the original brand name.
62 Wood, where did you get the CC burgee? I have an original white/red one, but would like to get a repro for "everyday" use. I keep the original put away for special occasions.
cbdenco, next time I'm where my '64 is stored, I'll have a look at the stern light. It might be identical to that on the '63. I'll try for a photo if it looks original.   


-------------
"Art"


Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: July-02-2014 at 10:48am
So I was able to locate an almost identical stern light lens for Dad's Ski Nautique, I will have to try and find the receipt, there must be light that goes with it... I will post when I find it.

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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-02-2014 at 11:21am
I'll save you the trip Art,I took these a couple of years ago at Astor. Phil was asking questions,you graciously told me go ahead take what you want. Perko still makes them but the cap is now plastic



Here is mine,my base was bad I bought a new Perko and used the parts



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: July-02-2014 at 11:33am
KC...she is looking and sounding good. Keep up the good work. I'm excited to see yet ANOTHER member of Team Red be back on the water.

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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"


Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: July-02-2014 at 11:38am
Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:


62 Wood, where did you get the CC burgee? I have an original white/red one, but would like to get a repro for "everyday" use. I keep the original put away for special occasions.


Art,
I worked with a local sewing lady to have mine made. I made a full size white paper template and layed out different color combinations with red and blue markers before deciding to go with this one. She ended up making a left and right side, so it doesnt read backwards on one side. She also sewed a pc of solid white material between the two outside pcs. A little stiffer than an original, but works great.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier

62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique


Posted By: dochockey
Date Posted: July-07-2014 at 3:52am
Hey Kc
for some reason I cant send pm ? my email is dochockey@aol.com
can you send me a line ?
thanks Kirk

-------------
1989 Teal Ski Nautique
1967 Mustang
Harris Float
Sunfish


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 10:52pm
Update- About two weeks ago I finally made it out to the lake! Here's a few pics. Having never had a inboard boat I must say I really like this boat! On a sad note, I bent the rudder pretty good somewhere on the road the last time out. I really don't know where. I never felt a thing and can only remember one intersection where it may have happened. In my defense for those that don't know, Colorado roads are HORRIBLE! Abrupt changes in road surface of 2 to 4! inches (bumps) are common and often not marked. Anyway now I'm paranoid and will have to fabricate some kind of hokey prop/rudder guard for my #2 trailer. So much for keeping it original.


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 10:55pm


Posted By: Smithfamily
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 11:18pm
Beautiful! Too bad about the rudder.

-------------
Js


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 11:23pm
Ouch if you know someone with a press you might be able to bend it back. Keep your eyes open on ebay or here,they do pop up every now and then. Do you have the trailer level when it's on the tow vehicle?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 11:30pm
Yikes, that's a bad lick on the rudder. To the best of my knowledge, that exact rudder is no longer available from CC. A 27A rudder will work, but you might have to change the height of the rudder port. Whatever you end up using, make sure you get the blade as close to the hull as possible.

Don't even think about having that one straightened. It will crack, possibly not visibly, but you could go out of control or have an "inadvertent inversion."

-------------
"Art"


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 11:58pm
I changed mine awhile back and cut off the part of the port that
extended underneath the hull. The bottom of my port was mushroomed
out so bad I had to cut it off to even get it out of the boat.



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 12:17am
I talked to a guy here in Denver at Props Plus that said they could fix it so I'm going to give them a try. It is level with the tow vehicle. I've thought of going tongue low but it's really more of a fulcrum problem. I only have about 8" ground clearance at the prop and I think the rudder was even a little lower. I was looking closely at the rudder port tonight and that's damaged too. Expensive lesson!


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 12:20am
Yikes! Thanks for the good advice Art.


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 12:25am
Gary, Now that you say that your port extended down that helps me make sense of my rudder mystery. I added the bushing you see in the pic because it had over an inch of vertical play. I figured the original bushing got lost at some point in the past. Now I realize the rudder port was changed out at some time and the new port is pretty flush with the hull. Do you notice any change in handling with the newer rudder?


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 1:29am
I was told I would but I cannot tell the difference.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: September-23-2014 at 9:47pm
I wish I would've taken more pictures when I got the boat because I can't remember if the strut was like this or not. The cutlass bearing appears to be slipping out of the strut and there are two set screws missing on the side of the strut. It does have play in it when I move the shaft up and down. This doesn't look like any cutlass bearing I see online so, looking for some expert advice from the experts. Thanks again in advance to the boat support group here!


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: September-23-2014 at 10:07pm
That looks like the same type that we pulled out of our '66 Mustang. It was made of some type of composite material and I'm guessing was original. We replaced it with a 4" brass and rubber bearing.


Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: September-23-2014 at 11:21pm
We did use the fiber cutless bearings back then. Replace with the currently available nitrile rubber. If the bore in the strut is slightly oversized, coat the inside of the bore as well as the outside of the bearing with a thin coat of silicone sealer such as 4200 before pressing it in. (I would avoid the 5200 in case you ever need to get it out.)

FWIW, I have a brand-new 6-inch Morse cutless on my kitchen counter that someone ordered and never picked up. 50 bucks.

Now for today's marine terminology and spelling lesson. This bearing is generically called a "stave bearing," but is commonly referred to as a CutlEss bearing. This word is actually a registered trademark name of the Duramax Corporation, which makes the bearings. The term stave bearing came from the old days of steamships when there were grooves in the strut into which strips of wood were inserted to carry the shaft. The strips looked a bit like barrel staves, thus the name. The cutless term has sort of become generic, like Xerox copies.    
A cutlAss is a sword or an Oldsmobile!    

-------------
"Art"


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: September-24-2014 at 12:01am
The knowledge that comes from this site is amazing! Thanks guys! I'll start researching that replacement. Hopefully not too tough of a job. Art, would the cutless you have work in mine?


Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: September-24-2014 at 8:45am
Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:

Now for today's marine terminology and spelling lesson. This bearing is generically called a "stave bearing," but is commonly referred to as a CutlEss bearing. This word is actually a registered trademark name of the Duramax Corporation, which makes the bearings. The term stave bearing came from the old days of steamships when there were grooves in the strut into which strips of wood were inserted to carry the shaft. The strips looked a bit like barrel staves, thus the name. The cutless term has sort of become generic, like Xerox copies.    
A cutlAss is a sword or an Oldsmobile!    


Art another big difference between US and Australian marine terminology. We call the cutless a "skeg" downunder.

http://www.cassellmarine.com.au/c/126789/1/skegs.html" rel="nofollow - Aussie Cutless (Skegs)



-------------
If you're going through hell, keep going

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski

<a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: September-24-2014 at 9:50pm
One good thing about having an old boat is that one gets very proficient at taking things apart.
I've once again reached the point where I'm in uncharted waters though.
I would really like to use something like the Strut-Pro to change out the cutless, but its prohibitively expensive so that isn't happening. I thought of making my own and found some plans to follow;
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?3253-Cutless-bearing-removal" rel="nofollow - Homemade cutless removal tool
But looking at the shaft packing rubber boot(?probably incorrect term) I am thinking it looks pretty shabby and I am this far in so now might be a good time to update it. So my questions for those who know these waters are;
How do I remove the shaft on this Dearbo Model C?
Once out will I need to go through the alignment procedure(I watched the video on that here that Peter did. Thanks to Peter) at reinstall or since I hopefully don't have to remove the flange to get the shaft out can I just reassemble?
The rest looks like a piece of cake, right?

Seems like a thousand word post, so here's some pictures that tell the story far better than I can.


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: September-24-2014 at 9:52pm
Also the prop key is stuck. Tips and tricks appreciated.


Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: September-24-2014 at 9:56pm
Do you mean that the key is stuck in the keyway but the prop is off, or is the prop on and you can't get it to come off?

If you're trying to remove the prop from the shaft, how are you going about it?

-------------
"Art"


Posted By: cbdenco
Date Posted: September-24-2014 at 10:03pm
Hi Art. Yes the prop is off. Key is stuck in the keyway.



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