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'93 351 Pro-Tec No juice to System

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30483
Printed Date: June-05-2024 at 9:30pm


Topic: '93 351 Pro-Tec No juice to System
Posted By: rsnorton
Subject: '93 351 Pro-Tec No juice to System
Date Posted: June-29-2013 at 12:36pm
I wonder if someone could help me solve this problem. Got the boat in 2 weeks ago, ran fine. The battery is fully charged, there is no juice to the starter, the horn, lights and blower. I checked the 2 breakers on the engine and one is depressed while the other is out. I can't press or release either breaker. My Ignition button is on. Do I need to replace either breaker or is there a fuse between the battery and the breakers (the wiring diagram shows there is a "fusible link" between the relay and the 12.5 breaker). It you think it could be the fusible link, where do I look to find this fuse?

Thanks for your time, Steve



Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-29-2013 at 1:52pm
Steve,
Welcome to CCfan. The first request we all have is pictures!

Get the VOM out and confirm you have the power going in and out of the breaker. They are known to go bad but you need to test to diagnose the problem.

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: rsnorton
Date Posted: June-29-2013 at 6:52pm
Thanks... just checked and it looks like the 50 Breaker is out and is the one that you can't push in the button, 12.5 breaker is good and I can get power to the blower etc. How hard is it to replace the 50 breaker?

Steve


Posted By: Foot_Fungus
Date Posted: July-01-2013 at 12:33pm
The 50 is supposed to be out more so nothing is wrong with that. First stop is the ignition button. Its a circuit breaker and they tend to go bad. I'd wiggle it and push it in and out to see if maybe its just a worn out connection. If everything is dead then this would be my bet, but before I'd go taking the dash out I'd do one more simple test just to verify. Break out the multi meter and see if you have power at the positive side of the start solenoid on the back of the engine(starboard side). If you do then you need to either pull the dash or the break panel and jumper across the ignition break to see if that's your issue. All you'll need is a 2-3" piece of wire as a jumper. Click the blower on beforehand so you'll have a quick way of knowing if bypassing the switch gave you power transfer. What sux is those breaker switchers are around $30 last time I checked.

Edit: On mine the fuesable link is behind the dash.

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'94SN Restoration underway...


Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: July-13-2013 at 7:43pm
Its the solenoid. My 1992 did this.   It was like a deadspot, turn the key, nothing. But then all of sudden it would be fine. Bang on the Solenoid back there behind the engine or just replace it.

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84 SN, 92 SNOB, 2005 SANTE 2006 SN 206


Posted By: rsnorton
Date Posted: July-18-2013 at 8:08pm
Thanks so much. I payed $75 and $50 shipping for the 50 amp breaker, but you were correct... the dash breaker needed to be replaced and was much easier to replace compared to the other.

Thanks for your advice.

Steve



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