Replacing Points 85 SN 2001
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29064
Printed Date: April-27-2024 at 2:35pm
Topic: Replacing Points 85 SN 2001
Posted By: td_in_nc
Subject: Replacing Points 85 SN 2001
Date Posted: February-24-2013 at 11:13pm
| I am getting to replace the points, rotor and cap with the tune up kit purchased from Skidim. (Tune up kit = points condenser, cap and rotor item No 1301) I searched the site for information about how to install, but could not find anything. I am sure this has been covered before so if anyone could point me in the right direction I would appreciate. |
Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-24-2013 at 11:29pm
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Not sure how much detail you need - a good source would be to Google 351 Ford Tune up on the internet - It will pretty much be the same procedure as a '80s F150 truck. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: February-24-2013 at 11:38pm
| Thanks - My only concern is replacing the points. It has been over 30 years since I have messed around with points (and then it was on an old tractor) and I seem recall about setting the gap at the right position. I will keep digging around. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-24-2013 at 11:59pm
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Actually, the reference section of the site has a PCM engine shop manual that has great detail on replacng points & adjusting dwell. Don't forget the cam lube. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: LaurelLakeSkier
Date Posted: February-25-2013 at 12:15am
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You'll also want to remember that your ignition timing should be checked after you replace and adjust the points since changes in dwell can alter the timing. ------------- The world is full of youth—what we need is a fountain of smart! |
Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: February-25-2013 at 12:26am
| I am starting to think this may be something more than I anticipated. After reading the manual (thanks for pointing me in that direction), most of it seems doable, but I have never "checked" the timing of a motor before. I am going to have read up on how to do this. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-25-2013 at 1:22am
You can do this - but we might fill out many thread pages with BS chatter walking you thru it . (It's better than watching commercials)Start off by getting the right tools - feeler gages, a dwell meter, a timing light, screwdrivers, box end wrench. Ski Dim or My Correct parts can sell you the parts. Give it a shot & come back if you get stuck. It's not like you need the boat to get to work in the morning. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: February-25-2013 at 8:49pm
| Alright you folks talking me into this. I already have the parts, I am looking into getting the dwell meter and timing light from a coworker. He is digging into his attic to see if he still has them. May not be until next weekend or so before I get to it. Thanks for the encouragement. |
Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: March-31-2013 at 1:31am
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I finally got the time to replace the points on the boat today. I thought everything went well until I tried to start it. It would act like it was trying to start by sputtering a little, but it would not kick over. After checking that the plug wires were in the right place, checking for spark (checked with a timing light) the thing that I leaning toward being the problem is that the when I set the gap at at the high point(.018), I rotate the engine with a wrench and it looks like the points are not closed when on the flat spot of the shaft. I purchased the tune-up kit from ski-dim and am wondering if I installed the points correctly. There was a metal spring which was included with the kit, but the points I took off did not have this (and I do not see how it would fit on the points) so I did not install it. I am thinking it was for another system for the universal kit. The problem appears to be that there needs more pressure to close points and the spring I did not use needs to be installed.....any ideas? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-31-2013 at 8:39am
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The flat metal spring needs to be used with the new point set. Some brands have the spring build in and on some the spring is separate. A picture would be great if you can't figure out where the spring goes. Keep thinking the spring needs to apply pressure to the point rub block that rides on the distributor cam. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-31-2013 at 10:50am
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A key point is to set the .018 gap with the rubbing block centered on a high point of the cam lobe. Also, put some cam lube on the cam. Another mistake may be to not connect the condenser. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: March-31-2013 at 11:06am
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One thing I did not do was use the cam lube. I did verify that the gap was set at the high point, and everything was connected. I only took a picture of the existing, got a little frustrated and did not take a pic of the new ones. I had to take the boat back to storage last night as it is raining here today. Spent most of the day installing new decals and cleaning the teak....at least it looks good. I plan on calling Ski Dim tomorrow and discuss my "spare part" spring. Just wondering if anyone else has used these points from ski dim, I will definitely post a pic for future reference once I get this puzzle solved. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-31-2013 at 11:20am
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I used them once, there was no spare part. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-31-2013 at 11:58am
Here's a picture I found that shows the flat spring as being a separate part. The flat spring will sit next to the copper conductor hooking up next to the pivot point of the movable side of the point set. The other end will bolt up at the same terminal as the copper conductor. Yes, don't forget the condenser and the grease for the rub block. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: March-31-2013 at 1:51pm
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Thank you for confirming this. I am still unclear as to how the spring fits in under the copper piece. I am thinking the spring has to be placed in between the copper conductor and the pivot point. Such that the copper conductor will we on the outside (closer the exterior of the distributor cap) and the spring will be inside (or closest to the swing are of the points) is this correct? Thanks again – I was getting ready to order the electronic conversion kit! I will take a pic of the set up once I get it running. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-31-2013 at 2:58pm
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Here is a picture of my old dizzy. I must have a different set of points, the spring is crimped right to the point set. I hope this helps.  ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-31-2013 at 3:23pm
I didn't say "under" the copper conductor but rather next to it. On the point set that I pictured, the spring hooks on the pivoting arm next to the actual pivot and wraps around the outside of the copper. This would be towards the outside of the distributor. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
td_in_nc wrote:Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: April-01-2013 at 10:37pm
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I spoke with Vince at SKIDIM and they provided the picture below (I hope I did this correctly) of the points in place with the spring. Sounds like they get this question a lot as they had already planned on putting instruction in future orders. Thanks for all the help. I will finish the install and check the timing this coming weekend. 
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Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 8:21pm
| Well the saga continues. Let me just start by saying that when I put the boat into storage in the fall it was running - it was just running a little rough so I wanted to tune it up. I installed the tune up kit with included points and condenser, (I should have tried to start it before removing the old points), autolite 24 spark plugs, and plug wires from SkiDim. I finally inserted the spring into the points and the boat would not start, got one loud backfire, not even a sputter. I checked the wiring order of the plugs several times and I smell gas (although the plugs look dry). I pulled a plug and turned the boat over and the plug was sparking. I even went as far as putting all of the old stuff back on except the plug wires. Still nothing. When the engine is turned to top dead center the rotor lines up with cylinders 3 and 5 which I think is odd (I was thinking it would line up with 1 and 6, but it was running last fall and I have done anything with the timing. Any suggestions would be appreciated. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 8:42pm
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Are you sure you followed the correct firing order when installing wires? Something got shifted out of time. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 8:57pm
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1 and 6 are only one post off 3 and 5... So it sounds like you shifted everything one post. I assume you're going around the cap counter clockwise? Just loosen the dist bolt and turn the dizzy a little bit counter clockwise if you want (rather than moving all the plugs around). The backfire may indicate that you're too retarded. You'll need to set the timing after the points change anyways. ------------- |
Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 9:16pm
I am going by the diagram below (the one on the right) and the firing order on the block - which matches the diagram. The only thing that bothers me is how did it get off by one.
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 9:58pm
Those diagrams are great but remember that the post location of #1 is going to vary depending on how the distributor is installed in the engine. It can vary by 360 degrees. You need to determine which post is #1 and follow it around from there. ------------- |
Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 11:00pm
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HOORAY! It is now firing up and running, nothing sweeter than the sound of these boats running. I am not sure how it happened but the position of the distributor was off by one. I loosened the dizzy and rotated it for number one on top dead center and it fired up. Learned my lesson about the diagram being off. I have to say I know more about points than I ever wanted to! Now I have to check the dwell and timing as daylight was getting short. Was afraid to run the boat out of the water so know I need to figure out timing and dwell without putting in the water. Thank you for all the advise! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-06-2013 at 7:24am
Tom, The diagram is only a reference. It's not "off", you were!  Just like Tim mentioned, you can stick a distributor into it's gearing anywhere within 360 degrees and plug in wires every 45 degrees. The key is finding the TDC compression stroke of #1, making sure the rotor is pointing to that wire in the cap and starting there.It's great to hear it's running.  The other thing is, I'm sure it was a good learning experience for you. Keep in mine you can learn something every day of your life and still die stupid!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-06-2013 at 11:25am
TD - Make sure you are providing cooling water to the Raw Water Pump when you run it in the driveway. Also, refrain from putting it in gear. Just set timing to 10 deg BTDC at idle. Dwell should be correct if you set the points to the correct gap. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: April-06-2013 at 12:23pm
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Thanks for the walk down memory lane. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |