Winterizing
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23714
Printed Date: April-19-2024 at 4:49pm
Topic: Winterizing
Posted By: lank
Subject: Winterizing
Date Posted: October-01-2011 at 12:36pm
Unfortunately in northern Indiana it's time to put away the boat  We've a 1972 Martinique with the 318 Chrysler. This spring I added garden hose connections so that part is ready to go. My question are (1) What is the best recipe for winterizing antifreeze? (2) I assume I mix it up in containers and pull from those into the engine? (3) How much do I need to suck in to be confident the engine is protected? Thanks!
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-01-2011 at 12:42pm
RV antifreeze and follow the procedure in the Chrysler manual. In brief, drain and pour. Why did you add the garden hose connections? Certainly not with the intent of winterizing!!! If so, you are being misdirected. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
lank wrote:Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: October-01-2011 at 2:08pm
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Just sucking up antifreeze wont work. If the T stat is closed, you'll just pump antifreeze out the exhaust. I do the recycle method, I catch what's coming out and recycle it until it gets very warm. Then take a hose loose and check the freezing point on what's inside the block. If you're using the pumping method, just remember the antifreeze will mix with the water that's already in the block, so don't add a bunch of water to it. Another way is take the thermostat out, and take a hose off that is low on the block and back fill with antifreeze into the intake at the t stat until the antifreeze push out the water from the disconnected hose. This might not work of some "plumbing" configurations. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-01-2011 at 11:53pm
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Guys, pumping the AF with engine runnning, catching & recycle is the hard way to do it. Just drain all points & fill with AF. The Tstat has a bypass hole & doesn't need to be removed for fill. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: lank
Date Posted: October-02-2011 at 12:45am
| The primary reason I added the garden hose connections was to be able run the boat on the trailer before putting it into the lake for the summer - avoid unpleasant surprises on the boat ramp. The marina I had winterize the boat last fall has an "antifreeze tank" in which they run inboards to winterize them. I made the leap of faith that I could accomplish the same thing using the garden hose connections. However it sounds like that may not be the best approach. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-02-2011 at 1:17am
Well said Chris!!  Plus, if the pour in method is used, (simpler!!) the block will fill from the the bottom porting off the circ pump so there's no need to worry about the T stat opening!!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-03-2011 at 12:16pm
I disagree, Pete. I always run on the hose when I winterize. How else would you fog down the throat of the carb? I always follow by draining and refilling, of course.
Not true. The thermostat controls the flow of water OUT of the intake, not in. If empty, the block,heads and intake will fill with fluid as soon as you introduce it via the circ pump, regardless of whether the engine is up to temp or not. This is one reason why you can pour antifreeze in at any temperature. Still, I think the suck up/ recycle method is silly and overcomplicated. ------------- |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: October-03-2011 at 7:56pm
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"Not true. The thermostat controls the flow of water OUT of the intake, not in." I didn't say that water goes in the t stat, I was taking it that the block is already full of water and the circ pump can't send any more in, hence the extra water/antifreeze will be sent out the exhaust. So, block full of water, t stat closed, whatever is sucked up goes out the exhaust.
"If empty, the block,heads and intake will fill with fluid as soon as you introduce it via the circ pump, regardless of whether the engine is up to temp or not." If my engine was up to temp, I would hope it's already full of water and I wouldn't want it up to temp and introduce cold water instantly from either pump. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: lank
Date Posted: October-03-2011 at 8:10pm
At the risk of confusing things more......  Does it matter that my engine has the dual pocket Sherwood pump? This boat is my first inboard so I'm obviously learning how the plumbing works... but from some of the manuals I've found it seems some of the Chryslers had two seperate pumps - one pulling in raw water and another circulating it within the block. Is that true or am I misunderstanding? Regardless it seems that running on the hose to fog, then draining all points and filling with AF is the preferred approach?
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-03-2011 at 8:45pm
Youre correct. I was giving you the benefit of the doubt that you drained the block first before sucking up the a/f. Like was pointed out, you dont want to dilute marine/rv antifreeze with water at all. If using conventional (green) a/f, then it needs to be mixed at a specific ratio (fairly close to 1:1) for it to give effective freeze protection. There is no way to verify that you have the proper ratio unless you fill and recycle for quite a while to ensure uniformity, and then you must test the mixture. Seems overly complicated and painful. Why not just drain first?
Again, I was giving you the benefit of the doubt that you drained the water first. Regardless, there is no harm in introducing cold water to a warm engine. It happens every time your thermostat opens. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-03-2011 at 8:47pm
Correct!  ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-03-2011 at 9:03pm
Just drain the damn block and pour in the antifreeze!!!!! How much simpler can that be?? Actually just draining like many do is simpler!  It's been done for years and still is. I believe Eric still does it for certain customers who do not want to go to the added expense of the antifreeze treatment. Way back when I was at Watercraft in the late 60's - early 70's, draining only was common practice. It wasn't until cooling systems got more complicated that we started using extra protection with the antifreeze. Still, it was drain and pour!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-04-2011 at 10:16am
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Pete, the arsenic makes you irratible, lol yes, some i never antifreeze and im going into my, sht dont even know 15 ish year of doing the boat the same ways.
really, normal procedure for me is, fire until it runs smoothly,turn off, drain block and manifolds, and suck in 2 gallons of RZ AF, thermostat does not need to be open, when i see pink out the back im good to go. pretty damn good track record with this method 0/1000 the 200.00 deluxe package includes AF, the rest simply get drained, one thing i do is lift and lower the tongue of the trailer to insure the water is out ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: October-04-2011 at 12:11pm
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Amazing.
You guys can argue about this subject for years! |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: October-04-2011 at 9:28pm
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i live in central california and temperature hardly gets in the 40s high 30s at night.. i was thinking about just draining the block and exhaust and dont add anything.... is that a bad idea? boat is under a carport with a cover on, i plan on throwing some blankets over the engine to keep it warmer... what do you guys say? ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-04-2011 at 9:31pm
So long as you drain everything properly, you'll have all the freeze protection you need- at any temperature. You can probably skip the blankets.  ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-04-2011 at 10:06pm
Agreed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-05-2011 at 10:05am
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I average 3 to 5 cracked engines a year, these are the guys that dont do anything at all to winterize, i dont get, do they forget? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-05-2011 at 10:31am
The year before I did my engine, I looked into having it done by a shop...all across town they were backed up with frozen engines. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-06-2011 at 10:09am
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darn it! ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: October-07-2011 at 4:25am
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- |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-07-2011 at 10:52am
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The manual is best & easiest way. 5 plugs to drain: 2 on block, 2 on manifold, 1 on elbow at front of engine.
Pull hoses off of Oil cooler & RWP, let them drain too. Pour AF into hose that leads to engine. Your done. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-07-2011 at 11:11am
The manual is actually a great reference. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8368&title=winterization - Winterization thread with pictures ------------- |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: October-07-2011 at 9:16pm
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great, thanks!!
is it necessary to add anti-freeze tho? if so, which type? ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-07-2011 at 11:03pm
not given, No it's not but it's an "insurance" policy. BTW, the on site search feature is great. If you searched, you would have come up with the answers!!
If you care to, at least add your first name to your profile. If you stick with us, (please do) you will find most do go by first names on CCfan. Then, I won't have to call you "not given"
Tell us more about the boat and yourself. Also, make sure you have all the info needed for Keith to enter you in the diaries section!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: adamt
Date Posted: October-08-2011 at 5:53am
Good philosophy for life ------------- -Adam 1973 Skier |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-08-2011 at 10:54am
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im more of a pink in the front kinda guy Adam ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: October-09-2011 at 1:36am
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My Air Nautique owner's manual. "Fill engine with a solution of 50% antifreeze. This helps prevent drying out the seals and gaskets, preventing the formation of hard dry scale in the water jackets and prevents freezing damage due to isolated pockets of trapped water that remains in the block." ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-09-2011 at 11:28am
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that of course is with green antifreeze, the 50/50 thing ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: October-12-2011 at 6:09pm
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Ahh yes. The annual thread....
I kept looking for the -100* stuff this year. Still cannot find it. Back to the pink stuff (up front) I still do not agree about pouring it in vs. sucking it in, in my case. You aren't pouring it in on a BBC in a Vdrive. And the stat on the 289 is vertical. It's is just easier to draw in it from a bucket on both these crafts. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: October-12-2011 at 6:21pm
| West Marine has the special stuff on sale this month, $8.99/gal after rebate. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-12-2011 at 7:46pm
No comment on the BBC v-drive, as Ive no experience there... but its really easy to pour in on an Interceptor/Conquerer. Just pour it in the (big) hose attached to the circ pump. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-12-2011 at 10:02pm
Agree but Tim the debate will go on long after I'm 6' under!
Yes, what ever happened to our -100 member?? Maybe he didn't follow OSHA PEL guidelines and inhaled too much of the -100?? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 1:16pm
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For me I don't feel it's that big of a hassle to run the A/F through. It also makes me feel better and that I got it through the heater, shower and anywhere else it may go.
But that's just me being anal which I tend to be with my toy's. 
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 3:46pm
Do you drain everything first? If not, youre taking a dangerous shortcut. If you do, then I still think youre doing more work than needed. Anything beyond draining properly is just a bonus- I cant see how pouring in is being any less complete vs. arranging the contraption you have pictured above. If youre worried about how well youre draining, see my comment above! Being thorough (or anal) is one thing (and Ive been called both many times). But adding extra, inefficient work for no reason at all is another. Just my 2 cents! ------------- |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 5:21pm
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Tim,
I do drain the block so it doesn't get too diluted but that's about it. It isn't really more work as I use this time as the motor warm-up to change the oil. Plus this way I'm sure there isn't any pockets of water left in my heater/shower lines. The contraption is simply a PVC elbo with a piece of pipe and some 1" flex hose at a couple cents a foot. I disconnect the strainer stick the flex hose on fill it with A/F start the boat and go get a beer. |
Posted By: Crandonskier
Date Posted: October-15-2011 at 2:35pm
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I just bought my first ski nautique and have started the winterizing process. I have owned outboards before, but never an inboard. I have removed the drains plugs on each side of the block and both plugs on the exaust manifold. Additionally, I have removed cold hose to the shower which also opened the line to the water pump on the front of the engine. How do I get the water out of the heater? I have also read the posts that say to pour anti-freeze back in. Do I pour the anti-freeze back into the block from the drain plugs or does it have to be pumped in with some special tool? ------------- CS |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-16-2011 at 11:46am
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Jason - I suggest reading the owners manual that can be found in the reference section of the site. It gives very good directions. You didn't mention draining the U-pipe, don't miss that!
I don't have a shower or heater but would suggest blowing them out with air & then getting AF poured in those too. Some guys have had leaking heater cores. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |