Trailer scraping driveway
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23475
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 3:27am
Topic: Trailer scraping driveway
Posted By: cragginshred
Subject: Trailer scraping driveway
Date Posted: September-12-2011 at 12:33am
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I got the 95 Sport Nautique this past week,however, i live on a steep road with a moderately steep driveway and the trailer scraps at the front backing in and at the crossbar under the scags/tracking fins pulling out. Is modifying the trailer for more lift a good option, or 2x6's a better bet? It is the DHM trailer with surge brakes. Also when baking uphill or downhill do I need to do anything to the brake set up?
see pic 
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Replies:
Posted By: cragginshred
Date Posted: September-12-2011 at 12:35am
| The house in the backdrop there is not mine, picture a 9% grade with approx 4% drop in for about 8' then levels off. |
Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: September-12-2011 at 12:56pm
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When you say at the front do you mean by the tongue?
If that's the case it looks like you could go a little higher on your hitch to level the trailer out a little more. Not sure if it'll help, but it's something to try. PS I love that boat! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-12-2011 at 1:16pm
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The trailers are made to sit low to the ground for better, safer towing. The guards can take some abuse. Raising the tongue will cause the prop guard to hit harder, don't do that. It is the nature of the beast, experiment with planks and/or enter the drive on an angle. ------------- |
Posted By: cragginshred
Date Posted: September-13-2011 at 12:27am
| The trailer can get a 'spring over' mod which will lift it up about 4". The tongue raised after the mod will allow it to sit level and be plenty safe according to Nautique folks despite it's design for the flatland folks. Thanks for the compliment Valent, I am diggin the boat! |
Posted By: cragginshred
Date Posted: September-13-2011 at 2:28am
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See below:
I have a DHM trailer (now California Trailer Works near Sacramento) dual axle trailer. And a fairly steep driveway. The best way to solve the problem is to lift the trailer. California Trailer Works sells trailer lift kits that may work for your trailer. http://www.dhmtrailers.com/online/home.php?cat=160 I went with the 1 1/2" lift kit and it works great. I gained about 2" height in the rear prop cage with the same hitch. A few of the previous posters recommended to use a lower drop hitch. But if your axle(s) are the middle fulcrum, your hitch would have to drop an additional 5-7" to gain only an inch of clearances in the rear. That generally would be too much of a drop in your hitch to work. Others recommended to use rollers...I've never seen much improvement with them. The main problem is caused by the reduced clearance caused by rollers hanging farther down. More importantly, all the weight of your trailer is now evenly split between the rear rollers and your trailer tongue. Your new rollers will pulverize your cement and brickwork anyway. Your normal 1/10th tongue weight just shot up to half of your total trailer weight when the rollers are pushing up your driveway. |
Posted By: tnplicky
Date Posted: September-14-2011 at 12:11am
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If your trailer doesn't scrape too bad, this may be an option for you.
I used to use a scrap piece of plywood positioned on the driveway where the trailer would make contact. This prevented the driveway from getting marked up and allowed the trailer to ride up on the plywood and preventing it from grinding on the concrete. However, this took some precise positioning and / or repositioning when entering and leaving the driveway. Then I came up with this idea: . 
I used some 1 x 2 material and attached stips of plywood to it with wood recessed wood screws. That way I could slip them over the prop guard frame. They stay attached to the trailer by friction-fit and I remove them d=before trailering on the road. I can flip them around the other way to prevent them from being slid off depending on which way you are taking the trailer I occasionally have to replace the plywood strips, but I don't have to worry positioning the plywood under the trailer in the right spot. |