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Prop Pulling

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18127
Printed Date: May-13-2024 at 1:48am


Topic: Prop Pulling
Posted By: Vancouver Matt
Subject: Prop Pulling
Date Posted: June-21-2010 at 5:01pm
Hi there,
I really wonder why I have so much problems to get my prop off everytime I wanna change it up. I wanted to put my four blade on as the my 3 blade is slightly chipped (BC Waters). I am using a good prop puller but takes so much effort and would not budge. I have sprayed WD 40 on both sides of the shaft and left the prop puller on with full tension in hopes in a day or 2 the prop will be forgiving. Before I put the 3 blade (last year) I had placed lots of White grease on the shaft and prop but still is a real pain to get off.

Any suggestions?

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Matthew



Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-21-2010 at 5:16pm
A properly seated prop will not come off very easily. What type of puller are you using and what method are you using to remove it?

The 3 (or 4) bolt pullers supposedly pull much more evenly than a C-clamp. Im still using the c-clamp and find that putting some good tension on it and striking the back of the puller with a small hammer (just one or 2 strikes) helps break a frozen prop free. I do not believe you want to use any sort of grease on the prop or shaft.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-21-2010 at 5:17pm
Matt,
What type of puller are you using? If it's a "C" clamp style, they are know to bend so you don't get a even pull all around the prop hub.

White grease on the taper is NOT recommended. (or any lubricant) It's the taper that transmits most of the torque to the prop and really not the key/keyways. You may have screwed up the key/keyways by using the grease.

When you do get it off, report back on your findings.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-21-2010 at 5:23pm
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12866&KW=proper+prop&PID=145077&title=span-classhighlightproper-span-span-classhighlightprop-span-installation#145077 - Proper prop installation

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Vancouver Matt
Date Posted: June-21-2010 at 6:55pm
Thanks for all prop info. I will not use the white grwease in the future.

Quick question. New four blade prop: How do I know im putting this on the right way? Does a ski boat prop only go on one way?


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Matthew


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-21-2010 at 8:22pm
Originally posted by Vancouver Matt Vancouver Matt wrote:

Quick question. New four blade prop: How do I know im putting this on the right way? Does a ski boat prop only go on one way?

Matt,
Due to the tapered bore of the prop matching the taper on the shaft, it will only go on one way. Please read the thread I linked regarding making sure the prop is seated on the taper and the key isn't out of place/pinched.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Vancouver Matt
Date Posted: June-23-2010 at 5:35pm
Thanks for the advise Peter.

Such a headache getting the prop off though. The prop puller does allow a 3/4" socket to fit on but the rudder is in the way no matter which way I turn it.
Now Im forced to use a 3/4" wrench. Hope to get it off tonight. It's been sitting with the prop puller on and WD 40 for 3 days now.
There's gotta be an easier way if I was ever to be in a hurry??

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Matthew


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-23-2010 at 5:52pm
take a punch to the back side of the hub resting the side of the punch against the shaft yet fairly square to the hubs face and give it a wack and the prop will pop off if it doesn't then do the same 180 on the other side. You greased the prop up before you tighten down and that allow for it to seat further up on the tapper than normal thus why it's so hard to remove.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: June-23-2010 at 6:04pm
Sounds like a job for ..........Heat it don't beat it.......

........BLUE WRENCH.............

A bit of heat at the base will do the trick.............

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: Vancouver Matt
Date Posted: June-24-2010 at 3:16pm
Unfortunatley I do not have access to a torch.
I tried last night to get it off using a punch and hammer, a hammer to prop puller and retightening the puller with all my might...no go. It moved about 1/2 inch and thats all she wrote.
I have attached photos..maybe you can tell what's wrong? Could be the prop went over the key when I put white grease on the prop when installing?? Hope not.



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Matthew


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-24-2010 at 3:41pm
take the puller off for a nite then go back at it. But that sure look like it's pretty far on the tapper.

if you have a small punh, try driving out the key way, another option is to hit the side area of the hub inbetween the blades but you need a long punch so you don't ding up anything.

Might have to drop it in the water at the ramp and let the motor take it off for you, but the grease was a huge mistake.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: June-24-2010 at 4:26pm
Consider buying or borrowing a propane torch, nothing crazy.

Preload the puller, heat the hub for a minute, go inside a cracka beer.

The gunshot you hear in 10-15 minutes will be the prop letting go.



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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-24-2010 at 4:33pm
another thought is to remove the puller move it to the next opening between the blades and apply pressure, strike and then repeat for the next one and continue to repaet

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-24-2010 at 4:55pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

another thought is to remove the puller move it to the next opening between the blades and apply pressure, strike and then repeat for the next one and continue to repaet

Matt,
This is a good idea because from the pictures it does look like the puller is stretched. This as mentioned earlier is the problem with a "C" clamp style puller. Flipping the puller 120 degrees may help. The prop is on there!!

Yes, giving it some heat will probably help. If you go and get a "propane" torch, get one that's rated for MAPP gas and get a bottle of it rather than the propane. It burns hotter. You'll get more heat in a shorter period of time. Yes, they aren't that expensive and handy to have around the house/garage. BTW, get one with the built in igniter.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Vancouver Matt
Date Posted: June-24-2010 at 7:07pm
Hello,

I guess I will pick up a torch after work and give it a shot. Hope this works. Should I heat up the hub evenly and have the prop puller on or off?
Peter, if this does not work should I try on the boat ramp to let the motor spin it off?

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Matthew


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-24-2010 at 7:54pm
Matt,
Heat the hub evenly with the puller on and tightened. The idea here is the heat will expand the hub.

The spin the prop off at the boat ramp was a facetious comment. It only works if the prop is loose due to a improper install!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Vancouver Matt
Date Posted: June-24-2010 at 9:08pm
Thank you Peter. I hope the key is not screwed up?

Will see tonight!

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Matthew


Posted By: Vancouver Matt
Date Posted: June-25-2010 at 4:26pm
No luck with the blow torch....Unbelievable! I had problems getting this prop off before but never this bad.
Now I have to bring the boat to the shop.
I think it's time to ditch this old prop? The ACME four blader comes off no problem when needed.

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Matthew


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-25-2010 at 9:45pm
Matt,
Try it a couple more times with the heat. Get it hotter and then cool it quickly with water. Keep the pressure on the puller. If that doesn't work, the next step would be to try and borrow a 3 arm gear puller. It may be tight to get in there with the rudder in the way but it's going to pull equally on the hub. This is what a shop will probably end up doing. They may even want to pull the rudder. You can too. I just hate for you to have to bring it to someone to pull the prop.

I'll bet you won't put grease on a taper again!!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Vancouver Matt
Date Posted: June-28-2010 at 7:36pm
Never will I put grease on the taper again! Yes, I tried the heat and still would not budge.
Lucky I have a friend in the Marine business and he re and re'd the prop for $40.00 Cash.
His prop puller was as the one you mentioned.

Had a great day on the boat on Saturday and the 4 blade was on so felt a lot quicker and responsive.


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Matthew


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-28-2010 at 8:14pm
Matt,
Any damage to the key or keyways or was it just really stuck bad on the taper?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Vancouver Matt
Date Posted: June-28-2010 at 9:10pm
No damage to the key or keywards...Happy for that. Just real up the taper. Like you said.. no grease needed.

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Matthew



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