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Overheating and Loud

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15238
Printed Date: April-25-2024 at 6:43pm


Topic: Overheating and Loud
Posted By: gekko
Subject: Overheating and Loud
Date Posted: September-09-2009 at 12:35pm
1999 Gekko, with 5.7 vortec pcm engine. Took out other day going wide open and then got louder exhaust noise and started to over heat. Did not see anywater leaking from manifolds but soon as it go loud noticed the water temp climbing. New to inboards and would like to know where to start looking. Advice from many water pump, why did it get loud first? Should I check collapsed muffler, manifold? It didn't lose any power when it got loud, just over heated and fast! Will look further this wkend, just need a starting place. Don't want to go to deal if I don't have to.



Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-09-2009 at 12:51pm
It got louder because it sounds like there wasn't any water flowing through the exhaust system. Since it happened over a short period of time, I'd start by checking to see if you sucked something up into the raw water strainer. If clear then go to the raw water pump and see if the impeller is ok. You haven't been running this boat dry even for short brief times have you? Without water, it doesn't take much to burn up a impeller!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: September-09-2009 at 12:53pm
Gekko , is that not a lizard?????
Sounds like an impeller for raw water in,extra water is dumped into the water manifolds after the coolant loop.No water /extra loud/ water helps to cool and dampen the exhaust note.......

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: gekko
Date Posted: September-09-2009 at 1:02pm
did set the idle without water after carb rebuild....will check...I sure hope that is the problem...don't want major problems...just got the boat


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: September-09-2009 at 1:16pm
Some live and learn, some just keep repeating and expecting different results.........
Raw water cools the motor and also lubes the impeller, hope ya find all the pieces to the impeller puzzle........

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: gekko
Date Posted: September-09-2009 at 4:57pm
Will check impeller tonight, thought it was like a car motor, forgot about the raw water pick up.


Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: September-09-2009 at 5:55pm
I could be off here, but do gekkos even have strainers? No one used to back in the day except CC.
Realizing that "the day" may have been over by 1999, but still....

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Mike N

1968 Mustang







Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-09-2009 at 6:06pm
Originally posted by WakeSlayer WakeSlayer wrote:

I could be off here, but do gekkos even have strainers? No one used to back in the day except CC.
Realizing that "the day" may have been over by 1999, but still....

I think we may still be living in "the day". MC still doesnt install a strainer as standard equipment.

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Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: September-09-2009 at 6:31pm
^ which is just stupid ^

Is it an even an option?

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Mike N

1968 Mustang







Posted By: beck
Date Posted: September-09-2009 at 9:15pm
hey i would now check your impeller, take the water pump off and open it up, we had this problem and the impeller got melted and was hooped, so check that cause if there isnt enough impeller left it wont suck enough water and overheat and will be loud

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1994 Sport Nautique 21ft 5.8L EFI Pro Tec Injection 310HP


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-09-2009 at 9:25pm
Originally posted by beck beck wrote:

we had this problem and the impeller got melted and was hooped,


Brandon,
I hope that whoever is in you family that's in charge of the boat has now too learned that you don't run a boat dry!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: beck
Date Posted: September-09-2009 at 9:45pm
well we took the water pump off in the winter time and it has no markings to show which way to put it back on and we put it on the wrong way lol, ya we know not to do that again, we put markings on it now though

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1994 Sport Nautique 21ft 5.8L EFI Pro Tec Injection 310HP


Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: September-09-2009 at 10:17pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by WakeSlayer WakeSlayer wrote:

I could be off here, but do gekkos even have strainers? No one used to back in the day except CC.
Realizing that "the day" may have been over by 1999, but still....

I think we may still be living in "the day". MC still doesnt install a strainer as standard equipment.


Yep! But one smart thing Indmar does do is they put their transmission cooler after the raw water pump. You can always find the impeller pieces when it lets go as they accululate in the cooler and not in the thermostat housing.

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Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0


Posted By: gekko
Date Posted: September-10-2009 at 12:29pm
took the front cover off the water pump and the impeller looks fine...all the rubber is there, I'll admit that it got hot when I set the carb running it dry, would it still look fine but not pump properly, the rubber getting too soft? Tried to take it out of its housing, do you need a special puller. Also took off the raw water intake at the pump and was able to blow threw it no problem. Going to hook up to garden hose this wkend and start seeing it it pumps. Took off thermostat housing...thermostat looks rusty, it also is one piece and couldn't get it out of the housing. My thinking is that even with a fbar thermostat it should still pump enough water not to give loud exhaust. Looked in the exhaust last night also, both side seem to be the same. When manifods pack it in do they cause a heating problem or just leak? Have no dealers in this area to even talk to....


Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: September-10-2009 at 1:26pm
Sounds like a coolant flow issue.

Exhaust Manifolds:
Usually the manifolds will only warp or crack causing an internal (into engine) or external (into bilge) water leak. This type of exhaust manifold leak does not cause an overheating condition.

Also check your raw water intake line at the inline trans cooler, on some boats this is the first strainer. I'd want to look at it first as I want to know why my boat is running hot, but you can back flush the trans cooler from the raw water pump with a garden hose.



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Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.


Posted By: beck
Date Posted: September-10-2009 at 1:30pm
hey, hook it up to water, disconnect to top water pump hose and see if water pumps through the pump

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1994 Sport Nautique 21ft 5.8L EFI Pro Tec Injection 310HP


Posted By: gekko
Date Posted: September-10-2009 at 4:36pm
even though the water impeller has all the rubber showing I would like to pull it out and see just how soft the rubber is. Do I need a puller to get it off the shaft? Also, is the thermostat one piece, not like a car stat! Looks like it is seized into the housing.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-10-2009 at 5:41pm
Don't use the garden hose to check flow through the pump. The pressure from the hose will give you a false indication of water flow. Stick the suction hose on the RWP into a bucket of water so it has to suck up the water. You shouldn't need a puller to get the impeller out. The rubber won't get soft but rather hard after overheating. Get a new impeller. You should not be able to blow through the pump.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: September-10-2009 at 10:20pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Don't use the garden hose to check flow through the pump. The pressure from the hose will give you a false indication of water flow. Stick the suction hose on the RWP into a bucket of water so it has to suck up the water. You shouldn't need a puller to get the impeller out. The rubber won't get soft but rather hard after overheating. Get a new impeller. You should not be able to blow through the pump.

The garden hose will fool you. I had my pump backwards and it worked fine at the house with the garden hose. Good thing that I learned from the last screwp up is that always touch the back of the pump after putting the boat on the water and starting it up and make sure is cold.


Posted By: gekko
Date Posted: September-14-2009 at 4:47pm
Put a new impeller in, the one I took out looked perfect, however, the rubber had spun on the brass. Took the boat out and it would run anywhere from 160 up to 185. Should the temp stay exactly at say 170 or if a slight fluctuation normal? Wide open 4900rpm quiet exhaust!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-14-2009 at 5:09pm
Sounds like you found the problem! Happy boating. The temp fluctuation is normal.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<



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