Prestolite Points
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12345
Printed Date: May-11-2024 at 7:59am
Topic: Prestolite Points
Posted By: lewy2001
Subject: Prestolite Points
Date Posted: November-09-2008 at 10:13am
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Does anyone have a part number for the points in Prestolite screw down cap dizzy. (89 SN)
Are the points used in any other Automotive applications? Trying to source from normal automotive parts store in Australia. I know I can buy from Skidim but the freight to Aus for just points is not justifiable. I dont want to change to EI would just like to replace points. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Replies:
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: November-10-2008 at 9:11am
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No ideas anyone?
When I was doing a bit of a mini tuneup/check before boats initial water test. I found a problem with the points. The timing was fine 10 degrees BTDC @ 600rpm and got to just below 30 degrees at 4000rpm actually was a bit earlier but did not record. The problem was the dwell was only about 16 degrees the specs say this prestolite should be between 29-33 degrees. The points gap was a bit close but the points were fairly worn and not very flat. After filing flat and re gaping to 18 thou I have about 20 degrees of dwell and the timing is now about 12 degrees. To get the 29-33 would require a huge gap. The rubbing block on the points arm is very worn. I am assuming this is why I cant get the dwell close? I even tried a different dwell meter the reading was the same. The engine still runs fine but have not water tested under load yet. Trying to replace the points before I do this. Any help with sourcing of automotive equivalent points would be appreciated. The plugs were also a bit of a worry they were Champion RV15YC4's gaped at 35 thou. They were very black but the motor has only been idling. The recommended plug states Champion RBL11Y?? Never been a Champion fan usually prefer Denso's. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-10-2008 at 9:36am
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Lewy,
Were're slowing down over here on the other side of the world as some of us are going into the winter sleep mode. You on the other hand are the opposite! It just means that you may need to wait awhile before someone who knows the exact point part # checks into the site. With the distributor part #, did any of your sources over there pull up a points #? It's not a marine specific part. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: November-10-2008 at 12:13pm
 ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: LaurelLakeSkier
Date Posted: November-10-2008 at 10:55pm
Sorry...can't help on the part number but I can give a bit of info on your adjustments. First off, the point gap and dwell setting are really adjusting the same thing. They are just measuring it in different ways, one with a dwell meter (the more accurate of the two), the other with a feeler gauge. Second of all, be sure you do your dwell or point gap adjustment first, then check and adjust your timing. This is important since changing the dwell/point gap will change the timing. |
lewy2001 wrote:Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-11-2008 at 12:18am
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Lewy - Earlier this year I was able to take the part # info stamped in the base of the dizzy to NAPA & they were able to get a cap & rotor for me. If you post your # then I would be willing to stop at NAPA & see what they can look up. It would probably be a NAPA # however so I am not sure it would be of much help down under.
I searched the web & came up with this source: The Prestolite divisions which manufacture direct current (DC) motors, switches, contactors, and electronic ignition systems (distributors) were sold to Ametek in 2000. Any questions regarding these kinds of parts should be directed to Ametek. Contact information can be found on their website at: www.ametek.com Ametek 37 North Valley Road Building 4 P.O. Box 1764 Paoli, PA 19301 Tel: 610-647-2121 Toll: 1-800-473-1286 Fax: 610-296-3412 U.S.A Let me know. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: November-11-2008 at 8:15am
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SNob the numbers on the distributor were 7020S 8 M 42 I think this is the model number there is also another number E5JL-12100-CA.
These small numbers are getting harder to read as the years pass may be due for glasses soon. I did a bit of searching last night and found the following site:- http://www.marineparts.com/sierra/sierra91.aspx - Prestolite Marine Distributor parts It shows a model number of IBM 7020S which matches up with one of the numbers on distributor. Points Part No. 18-5303 Rotor Part No. 18-5403 Condensor No. 18-5340 Tried these part numbers at my local parts place who supplies to the Trade but without success. It appears as that everything here relates back to a Bosch cross reference. He had a book with pictures of all contact set configurations but could not match any of them up with the Prestolite points. 
Hopefully you can get another part number that I can try. If possible get a Bosch equivalent number. Thanks for your offer of help. I ended setting the points gap to 25thou to get the minimum dwell angle of 29 degrees then had to retard timing back to 10 BTDC. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-11-2008 at 10:06am
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Lewy - Here is some inf:
http://www.boatersland.com/sie18-5258.html Click to enlarge Item #: SIE18-5258 Availability: Usually ships the next business day. Price: $11.15 CONTAINS Sierra # O.E. # Description 18-5303 392-6325 Contact Set 18-5347 392-6324 Condenser 18-5407 3 92-6326 Rotor Prestolite 8 cyl. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: November-11-2008 at 9:05pm
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Thanks for that SNob(Chris)
Will try them numbers today with my parts man. Our boats are almost twins. I even have the same high pole as yours. I noticed in the brochure that my clour is actually cranberry. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-11-2008 at 9:20pm
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Hi Lewy
The clip down cap and the screw down cap use the same points and I wrote a bunch of cross reference numbers down about 25 years ago. Here goes Delco A-105PV Standard AL-5677P Sorenson AL-26HV Echlin CS-720A Filko 74-1075 Niehoff AL-11HV along with the NAPA and Sierra number listed above Keno |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: November-12-2008 at 8:44am
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Thanks KENO I should be able to get a cross reference off one of them numbers.
I vaguely remember seeing a Echlin book at my parts guy's shop today. I had no luck with the 392 numbers. I was looking thru all of his books and found some pictures of contact sets in a Champion book. The S85V Champion set looked close it states it is for a Dodge or International truck. I wonder if they used a prestolite dissy. Took the boat out for water test today. It runs fine up to 3500rpm then runs very rough. I dont think it is ignition related will replace fuel filter and check breather & anti syphon valve. It felt like it was starving for fuel. I will buy some new Plugs also, unable to source Autolite or Motorcraft and the Champion RBL11Y plug on the engine spec sheet have been replaced by RV12YC plugs. This is a slightly colder plug than the Champion RV15YC4 that are currently in the boat. Do you think a hotter plug will be OK? Probably will spend most of the time around 2-2.5K(20-23mph) Revs boarding with the odd single ski run at around 30mph. Can get NGK, Denso, Champion and Bosch plugs have read a bit in the archives that some of the cross reference plugs are not quite right for these engines. Should I stay with the Champions?? The NGK cross reference plug was a BR6FS which turned out to be a colder plug than the RV12YC ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-12-2008 at 10:30am
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Lewy - Can't answer on the plugs but do know that the condenser is not the same for clip down vs. screw down caps. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-12-2008 at 11:44am
Not true. I put the same sets of points and condensor in both my Tique (clip down) and Skier (newer screw down) this past summer. The caps are obviously different, not sure about the rotor. ------------- |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-12-2008 at 3:33pm
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The caps and rotors are different
The points and condenser are the same Keno |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-12-2008 at 8:07pm
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I got a freebie set of points & condensor from a friend who had EI. The condensor wouldn't fit, was backwards. I just reused the old one. The kit was from SkiDim.
Don't know why my experience was different, but this is true in my case. Maybe it has something to do with my std rotation vs. his RR. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-12-2008 at 8:21pm
Nope, theyre not rotation-specific either. The only thing that is different between a LH and RH Ford distributor is the gear on the end of the shaft. There is no specific orientation to the condensor- there is likely more than one way to mount it using the bracket provided. As long as its held down safely and the copper connector attaches cleanly to the points, youre golden. The kits I installed in my 2 Prestolites were from SkiDIM as well. Hope you didnt throw yours out! ------------- |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-12-2008 at 8:44pm
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It really was backwards. I remembering pondering how to make it work, but it needed the lead to come out of the opposite end of the can. I doubt if I kept it. I would take a picture of the issue if I had it & the boat here together. It's not enough of an issue to dwell on, but please believe me it would not fit & it wasn't a matter of just bending the lead. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-12-2008 at 11:13pm
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OK, my OCD kicked in & I went out & found the errant condensor. (What kind of packrat saves a part that doesn't even work?).
My boat is 50 miles away, so I looked at SkiDim's catalog. Well the answer is right there. See the 2 photos below, the mounting bkt on the condenser is opposite on the screwdown vs. the clipdown kit. I would be willing to ship (domestically), free, this clipdown condenser to anyone who wants to show me how to make it fit properly in a screw down dizzy. I rest my very solid case. 
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: November-13-2008 at 9:11am
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Yep the Echlin number worked CS-720A cross referenced to a Bosch GA-94V. My parts guy ordered them there was only a few sets in the country. Will probably take a couple of days to arrive.
Thanks for your help SNob & KENO. It was stated that they were for Dodge Cars & Trucks, Chrysler cars and Hudson. Not sure of what year & model though. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-13-2008 at 10:37am
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Hi SN
You slide the condenser out of the bracket and put it in the other way. Keno |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-13-2008 at 10:40am
Bracket is welded on. Sorry, but I am correct on this one ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-13-2008 at 11:43am
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The bracket should not be welded on- but it is very tight, making it a PITA to remove. KENO is right on the money here- the bracket and condensor were not attached in the kit I got from SkiDIM. Even if they were, both my clip down and screw down need the terminal oriented the same way, IIRC (like the lower picture). That copper cable isnt very rigid anyways- a half twist would probably work too.
Notice that the condensor that http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R115002 - SkiDIM sells is described as fitting "Prestolite-ALL". My screw down dizzy is in the basement- ship that condensor to me if you want to see it fit. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-13-2008 at 7:09pm
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Chris,
I did a tune up on my 4 cyl. Mercruiser last summer and the condenser didn't even come with a bracket. Trying to remove the old one to use, I too thought it was welded on and even looked for spot weld marks! Some work was need to R&R it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-13-2008 at 7:58pm
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Hey Lewy
The first time I bought points at an auto parts store using a cross ref number from the original ones, the guy behind the counter wanted to know if they were for a 49 Dodge or something like that. It was easier to just say Yep that's what they go to. As far as condensers and welded? on brackets, pull out a little tweaker and pry the bracket off of the condenser SN. Some take more work than others but you can do it. Keno |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-13-2008 at 8:43pm
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You guys win!
The condenser can be jury rigged by breaking the bracket off (it is spot welded on) & using a different bkt. I myself am going to get the right part. My original point was there are 2 different condensers in SkiDims kits & I proved that. Tim - you are on, but no fair breaking the bracket off. I will PM you for shipping address. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-13-2008 at 8:49pm
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Hey SN
I didn't know this was a winners/losers thing. Just trying to help out. Send your old one to TR Benj. Keno |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: November-14-2008 at 2:16am
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Managed to delve through a few more ignition books at my mates auto store.
Keno you were close:- Chrysler New Yorker 58-62 Dodge Imperial 58-60 Dodge 65-67 383,413,426 Dodge Truck 58-60 Hudson 56-58 When you tell the auto store employee it is for a boat with a 351W in it you get a blank look at the best. All they want to know is what car it is out of and what year. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: 91nautique
Date Posted: November-14-2008 at 4:55am
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Lewy
Aussie built Fords came out with a 302 & 351 windsor (points dist) up until the XW Falcon. The part numbers I got after looking it up was (Bosch) GF824V or (Champion) PTS1205 Follow it up that way and see how you go edit- The book only shows them as being fitted with Prestolite dist.. |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: November-14-2008 at 7:07am
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91nautique these boats have Prestolite marine distributors fitted totally different dissy to what we used on 302/351 Windsors out here. But thanks for the thought. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: 91nautique
Date Posted: November-14-2008 at 7:47am
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Lewy, I have a 302 w with marine distributor in in my workshop, I will have a look at it tomorrow- I would have thought the points would have been the same though.. Pity you didn't post this up a couple of months ago, I just sold a marine electronic dist for a 351 w for 50 bucks. If you can source a 351 or 302 cleveland marine dist they can easily be modified to suit the w- if you have a lathe. (unlike the windsor the 302-351 cleveland use the same dist) If you want to go that way I can give you the specs. To get up and running why not throw one of these in there, they are available without vac advance http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-Windsor-HEI-50-000-Volt-Pro-Comp- Distributor_W0QQitemZ320316805460QQihZ011QQcategoryZ15 8509QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262 |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: November-14-2008 at 8:42am
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91nautique thanks for the info. Those HEI's on ebay are unbelievably priced must be made in China. Do you know what the quality is like?
------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: 91nautique
Date Posted: November-14-2008 at 8:58am
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Ive used one in a car, it's fine and it will get you up and running, and at that price its got to be a better option than an old points dist. Track down the one with built in coil and without vac advance |
Posted By: 91nautique
Date Posted: November-16-2008 at 9:07pm
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Lewy
If you still want to go with replacing the points (hopefully not) the part no from the dist cap off the mid eighties 302 w I have lying around is Stamped "Mercury Marine"-- PN 3934988 The cap looks like a standard automotive one,the dist looks standard -apart from the lack of the vac advance unit. |
Posted By: Lorenr
Date Posted: November-18-2008 at 9:43pm
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I guess I've done my share of points and condenser installations. Some guidelines might help.
The only condensers that I've ever had go bad were new ones and sometimes they didn't go bad for a couple of months. Save the old ones in a bag. You'll be glad you did. Points can be examined, filed flat to slightly rounded (remember the electrons want a good place to jump across) and readjusted. Use a dwell meter especially on a Prestolite distributer. Feeler gauges are for the very talented. Thats NOT me. Use the correct rotor and cap but if you can get them with brass contacts. They will last a long time if you do. Save the old ones if they are in good shape. The quality of this stuff is not as good as it used to be, which is why I buy Echlin parts, usually from NAPA. The quality and reputation are pretty good. Often on friends boats, I simply examine the points to see that contact material is adequate, examine the rotor and cap for wear or shavings, reset the dwell, set the timing and they never have a problem. If you use your boat a lot and hopefully you do, Maybe do this once a year. Dwell meters and timing lights are well worth owning.  ------------- Lorenr |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-19-2008 at 7:22am
I get the impression that you feel a point system is high maintenance and should be converted. What is your experience with points? Years and or hours between servicing? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Brktracer
Date Posted: November-19-2008 at 1:05pm
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I picked up a brand new Prestolite marine distributor on ebay recently for less than $50. It was for a 429/460 so I had to change the gear.
I am using an MSD 6AL which will work well with points also. The new distributor yielded no improvement using the MSD on both. I ran the MSD with points for years. With this set up there is no need to set dwell. As long as the points open and close it works perfectly. I didn't read all the posts here and someone probably mentioned already: You can use points for a small block mopar in the Prestolite distributor. I think you'll have to change the spring with the original points but the sb mopar points will work. Matt ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3180 - 1976 Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-22-2008 at 5:08pm
OK, verdict is in... and I win.
I didnt actually install the condensor in my dist- I simply popped the bracket off, rotated the condensor, and popped it back on. No disassembly required to prove this point- its the same conendsor for all Prestolite dizzy's. 
I agree that its easier to install in this orientation- but its not 100% necessary. Look closely at the way my current condensor is mounted- it has a slight twist in the copper cable.  ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-22-2008 at 6:03pm
The 3 marks on the bracket are not spot welds. Look real close and you'll see they a "half punches" creating dimples on the inside to keep the condenser from rotating - but, the bracket is tight!!! I don't know why they need the dimples!! BTW, a half punch in the metal stamping industry is basically a regular punch that doesn't go all the way through the piece part when the press closes. Depending on the size difference between the punch (male) and the die (female) it will produce the dimple like the condenser bracket or a "knockout" like you find in a electric box. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-22-2008 at 8:16pm
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Thanks for setting me straight Tim. I admit when I am wrong. Funny how you can convince yourself you're right & shut out opposing information until you crash with reality.
I wonder if that is the explanation at the Federal Reserve. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: November-27-2008 at 7:43am
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Thanks for everyone's help on tracking down equivalent part numbers. The Bosch GA-94V were the correct points.
I fitted them and adjusted gap to 18 thou. The dwell meter still said only 20 degrees. I then opened gap slowly to achieve the minimum dwell of 29 degrees. It turned out to be 25 thou gap. I adjusted timing to 10 degrees it runs & idles fine but when I rev it over 3000rpm even with no load it runs rough. I then returned gap to 18 thou and the engine revs fine now. After sitting around and thinking what else could be wrong to cause the low dwell angle reading. I decided that if dwell angle is the amount of time the points are closed measured in degrees. Then decreasing the points gap should increase dwell and I was going the wrong way? But then why was the dwell angle increasing while I was opening gap? Getting a bit rusty on the old points setup. My last boat had a 350 SBC with the little window in the cap to adjust points while motor was running. Not sure if it was increasing or decreasing gap to get the required dwell angle. Will try closing gap tomorrow and see what happens. Anyone have any further ideas as what may be the cause of low dwell reading? Could it be the condensor? ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-27-2008 at 10:13am
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Lewy,
I don't think it's the condenser. It's in there to absorb the DC current when the points open keeping the arc to a minimum and preventing the contacts (points) from getting fried. Typically a bad condenser is shorted to it's case which will shunt current to ground. This will have the effect of the points never opening allowing the saturated coil to discharge the high tension current to the plugs. If the condenser is open, then the points fry. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: November-29-2008 at 9:53am
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Today I closed the gap up and the dwell angle decreased. So I was going the correct way originally.
Returned gap to 18 thou (20 degrees). I even tried a condensor just to rule it out with no change in dwell. I checked points gap at every lobe of distributor points cam they were the same. Running out of ideas as to cause of low dwell angle. Will water test with this setting and see what happens. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-29-2008 at 1:36pm
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Lewy - I set my points at .018 & then just checked the timing (which was spot on). I don't have a dwell meter, so ignorance must be bliss. She runs great!
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: December-22-2008 at 8:16pm
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Had forgotten to post final outcome of this thread.
Yes with points set at 18 thou the boat runs fine. So in my case I have decided to join the ignorant. Will leave dwell meter in the tool chest. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: Chopper
Date Posted: January-08-2009 at 2:11am
Lewy, Are the points from a Valiant.? I think they are the ones I purchased also. My rotor button matches that of a 50's dodge truck.! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1540&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 98 Ski |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: January-08-2009 at 7:59am
Chopper maybe some early Aussie Valiants (US translation is Dodge/Chrysler) used similiar ignition systems as their US counterparts probably the 225ci slant six motor. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |