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stepper459 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stepper459 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-07-2019 at 3:37pm
A thought on whatever was wrapped around the driveshaft - maybe it was one of those oil absorbent bags that are made to sit in the bilge. If those get wrapped up in the driveshaft, they look like... that. AND you get lots and lots of pieces all over the place. Ask me how I know...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brantb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-07-2019 at 5:14pm
Maybe. I cut that out right away and havent worried about it since. There is still that giant catch pan that is irritating when working on it. This winter when i pull the motor that will be coming out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-07-2019 at 10:45pm
Originally posted by brantb brantb wrote:


Here i changed the angle of the throttle cable so it can pull to WOT. It just changed the angle slightly.


I thought I'd point out that in your picture above, if the primary throttle plates are closed, then your secondary throttle link rod (the goofy looking sort of S shaped linkage between the primary and secondary shafts) isn't adjusted right.

You have about a 1/8 inch gap between the rod and the secondary linkage.

This link is to ensure that the secondaries are never open more than the primaries.

The way yours is bent, the secondaries can be open more than the primaries , so the link needs to be bent so that at idle it's just touching the secondary linkage to be sure the secondaries are shut

It's a little hard to explain but you could google "secondary throttle link rod".

It has no effect on you lack of secondary opening issue, it could have an effect on your idle though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2019 at 12:20am
Good call Ken

I am almost certain that gap on the return rod I have seen many times,

And has always been due to the idle stop having been turned way up after both idle fuel orifices have clogged in the primary metering block in order to get it it 'idle' again.

So the engine is idling off the mains, now by getting fuel through the xfer slots.



So for certain this thing is running at only a fraction as intended.

Also an engine won't gag and fall on it's face if the secondaries don't open, something else is amiss, fuel delivery starvation or secondary metering plate is clogged, making the whole mix go lean. That would be a sight.

Hey we're all for trying but that carb may not even deserve a kit. If the corrosion clogged the idle fuel orifices, it likely won't clear up, as they are not accessible like the mains

Good chance new carb is on the short horizon, you'll have to decide how much fustration you can tolerate attempting to make that one right.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2019 at 9:15am
In addition to the concerns above, i have never seen such an improperly installed throttle cable bracket... what on earth is going on there?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brantb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2019 at 12:17pm
I did have to up the idle screw to get it to run stable. Set it to about 700 rpms in gear. I have been looking around for another 4160 so if my attempt at a rebuild fails horribly i have a backup.

TRBenj, i changed the angle of the bracket so it would actually pull to WOT. When it was parallel it would only pull to about 90-95%. The last little bit of twist of the primaries wouldnt happen.

Either way there are bigger problems with this motor that will be addressed this fall/winter. Looks like carb issues are getting bumped up to sooner rather than later.

Plan are to pull engine and clean it up
replace heads/intake/cam, hopefully the bottom end is good
DUI distributor
11A rudder/port
replace 1 fin
build/buy rear seats
redo dash wiring
replace/repair/remove heater and shower
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2019 at 5:51pm
I know you mentioned looking into a new distributor, but have you pulled the cap off and inspected yours, looked at the advance? That high speed stumble may very well be the carb, but you may be running out of advance too.
'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brantb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2019 at 11:01am
It has been a while since i posted an update. There were quite a few weeks where i was busy with a 4 month old, but i was able to take the boat out last weekend. I had a friend driving so i could watch the secondaries. As i had previously thought, they were not opening. I tapped them open and the stumble went away and we picked up about 350-400 rpms. After i tapped them open they started working on their own, so there must have been something blocking the vacuum port. I had manually opened them before without the motor running so i know they weren't seized up.

I didnt check the gas before we headed out, so it was a shorter day. The boat was much better off the line, and the top end no longer had the stumble. Going to try to get out this weekend and make sure everything is still good.


Some more exciting news is that i found a pair of gt40p heads and they are relatively close. I should be picking those up friday after work. Then i will be searching for an intake. Probably go with the proven edelbrock performer.

Anyone have cam specs i should be looking for, or part numbers? I dont want something extremely aggressive, but dont want to stay conservative either. What are the opinions on roller rockers? Worth it to get them or just keep the stock rockers?

I am shooting for 300hp and am hoping that is realistic. I am at 5k feet, so i figure that would be about 350hp at sea level.

Plans for the winter:
-pull motor and that damn tray under it
-gt40p heads
-performer or other intake
-cam/lifters, maybe new pushrods
-roller rockers?
-DUI distributor
-check the bottom end and clean everything up

After that fire it up on the hose and make sure everything seems good. Then,
-rebuild/replace carb
-redo wiring
-replace heater
-if time/money allows tear up carpet and sea deck the floor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2019 at 11:54am
hmm, 350hp at sea level is a bit optimistic without more work$

Well it appears you have a LH engine, so that opens up more Camshaft options.
Rule of thumb is limit 5,12 max lift unless you do more work to those heads.

The GT40P heads use the same rockers you have, Unless you chose heads that require stud rockers, i don't think there is sufficient HP/$ to warrant . Thats money that could go to a Rolller Cam easily if its a roller block, else Tie bar lifters, and have tangible improvements in power and longevity.

My take is Intake duration 214-218 and exhaust 224-228 LSA112 seem to work very well and improve everywhere and don't disappoint those that do it.. But you won't be doing wheelies.

But best report to us, how do you intend to use the boat?
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brantb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2019 at 12:15pm
From what i read the base 240hp motor was never a roller block. I will be skiing and tubing, maybe wakeboarding with the boat and general cruising. The lake i go to is extremely busy and has lots of wake boats so during the busy time I just park and we swim.

What is the purpose of the tiebar lifters? From what i have searched up a retrofit roller cam is big money, At that point i would probably be better finding a roller block and starting from there
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2019 at 12:50pm
well, yes, a right hand roller cam is big money to source...
But you cant throw a cat without hitting a Left hand roller cam..

Tiebar roller lifters are a drop-in solution that permit a roller cam in a block that wasn't cast as a roller (lifter bores not raised, and no boss for the spider)

True a roller block is a good starting point, but anything used at this point will require machining and internal parts that were not on your list as well.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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