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Petes pressure drop

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Duane in Indy View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-11-2018 at 11:02am
Started new thread so I don't get accused of thread jacking
Pete, This calculator will only go to 350 feet for 3/8 hose. Kinda interesting though.   I plugged in 10cfm and 150psi. Drop was 13.4 psi at 350 feet. I'm not smart enough to know if that would be linear for 1000 feet. Sure you would remember that from college days though.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2018 at 11:11am

from previous post:

quote from Pete:
Duane,
Ok, now you want me to go out and get a reserve tank too and I'm sure you would recommend an ASME rated one too!   Running some pressure drop calculations, it looks like I could use the 3/8" hose and see about a 2 PSI drop. I could live with that but, the CFM is bad. Using a 13CFM, die grinder, looks like I'd be down there all day waiting for the reserve tank to refill.

Regarding the electric, it was run for lighting back in the 30's when electric was run to the house. (in laws house). A 10 amp load on the 12 gauge is about a 30 volt drop and that won't run the compressor.

I'm just going to take my Dremel down there!     

BTW, I'm very familiar with reserve air tanks having laid out 600 HP of sequenced compressors in a 200.000 sq. ft. blow molding plastic injection plant. We installed 3, one in each corner of the plant. It works!"

Pete, Check your figures. I see Zero drop with no cfm flow
No on the ASME, I have used 100 gallon propane tanks cleaned and converted(maybe not Kosher but have done it)
30 volt drop at what temp??




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2018 at 11:27am
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:


Pete, Check your figures. I see Zero drop with no cfm flow
30 volt drop at what temp??

The zero is correct once the tank is filled without drawing any air out.
I used 70 degrees for the voltage drop.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2018 at 1:52pm
Do you have plans to run any more power down to the boat house??   Would imagine that you have some sort of GFCI type protection there already. If the existing wire was run in the '30's what kind of insulation is it?? Got to be some sort of fabric. At least back then they did not use aluminum wire. With the advent of LED"s you can get by with a lot less power needed. That and solar will help you. We won't need to about it but just think what will be available in 30 more years or so.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2018 at 3:40pm
Duane,
There is a plan for more electric but it's way down on the bottom of my list. The wire going to the boathouse looks like it has some kind of rubber insulation. Neoprene? I wonder when they developed it? I'll have to do a google. The wiring in the boathouse itself is just a step ahead of knob and tube. No ground just a insulated cloth coved pair. Then for splices they are "western unions" wrapped with friction tape. Surface mounted switches and no GFCI!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2018 at 4:06pm
Keepin' it original!

Seems like a safe place to store wood boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2018 at 5:22pm
Have to store this one in the memory banks for the next time Pete starts preaching about code adherance or electrical safety or anything like that
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DVskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2018 at 6:41pm
No kidding! That fabric insulation must not provide much protection. Ever seen "Up in Smoke"? Bring marshmellows.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mark c Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2018 at 10:59pm
Don't need any insulation on knob and tube wiring, The hot and neutral conductors are at least 4" apart and are attached to the midlines of floor joists. Can't short them out without having the structure collapse. That fabric is asbestos. My parents house still has about 50% knob and tube wiring and other than not having a ground wire there has never been an electrical problem in the house in the hundred odd years the house has been there. The only issue with the old knob and tube wiring is the way they wire a bunch of plugs (although there are only about 2 plugs in any given room) on one circuit. They definitely weren't looking to future expansion of electric appliances when they built the old houses. I think my parents entire second floor 4 BR, a hall and a bath are on a single circuit out of the fuse panel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2018 at 11:03pm
Glass fuses??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DVskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2018 at 11:05pm
That's keeping it original. I'll go with modern electrical practices.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mark c Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2018 at 11:10pm
My parents were originally, the little round ones that screw in like a lightbulb. 30 years ago they had an addition added and the panel itself got upgraded to breakers but not the original house wiring, Didn't have to do that at the time, today they probably would have had to rip out all the Knob and Tube stuff and rewire.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2018 at 7:00am
Originally posted by DVskier DVskier wrote:

That's keeping it original. I'll go with modern electrical practices.

David,
If you have early wiring in your home, before you rip the house apart, you may want to take a look at the NEC's and listen to Mark.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2018 at 7:40am
Originally posted by mark c mark c wrote:

today they probably would have had to rip out all the Knob and Tube stuff and rewire.

Still not required.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DVskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2018 at 11:27am
Nope, home was built in 2003. I have a 200A panel and a 100A sub panel. Service to dock with GFCI protection on pier and dock.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2018 at 11:44am
Originally posted by DVskier DVskier wrote:

   I have a 200A panel and a 100A sub panel. .

David,
I'm curious about the sub panel. What is it for? The typical 200 amp panel has 40 breaker spaces. Wasn't that enough or did the electrical contractor put in a smaller 200 amp main with less spaces?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2018 at 12:26pm
We had knob and tube in the first house we bought. No problems, but not something I'd put up with today, would rewire if my house had it.

Boathouse - there was a long thread on a local forum about a kid that got electoicuted swimming close to a dock, somehow it had energized the water without tripping a breaker or blowing a fuse. I'll try to find it and post here. Old school is fine but I would not have power around a boathouse or docks that was not protected with gfci. Just my 2 cents.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mark c Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2018 at 2:17pm
Wow, realtors and inspectors make a big deal about it when it comes time to sell a home. Now when my mother goes to sell the house i can tell the buyers tough, no discount for the knob and tube. Fix it yourself if you don't like it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2018 at 5:19pm
David,
I think you missed this??
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by DVskier DVskier wrote:

   I have a 200A panel and a 100A sub panel. .

David,
I'm curious about the sub panel. What is it for? The typical 200 amp panel has 40 breaker spaces. Wasn't that enough or did the electrical contractor put in a smaller 200 amp main with less spaces?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DVskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-17-2018 at 2:58pm
Hey Pete,

I have a ton of circuits. The 100 A panel is used for terrace level, outside lighting, 120 vac auxiliary circuits and GFCI circuits that go to boat dock, lift, dock lights and pier circuits.

Overkill yes but the electrician did a first class job. It wasn't cheap but no problems since I moved in July 2003.

We have some spectacular electrical storms here and I made sure all circuits measure less than 0.1 vac between neutral and ground.
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