Ski Nautique 2001 Restomod

removable area was always wood. Section from the pylon to the dash was wood.   Under dash is fiberglass over foam. Sections beside engine and rear removable floor were fiberglass over foam.   Glass was about 3/16 thick chop strand.   it also use to curve outboard a little so water would channel outboard and to the rear.   

I made my floor out of coosa and nyda core.   Used nyda core since someone gave me a 4x8 sheet that was glassed on both sides.   Used nyda core for removable section behind engine and the section from the pylon to dash.   Coosa for rest., I also made the section under the dash removable with NO hump.   Left it bare coosa with carpet on top, I ran vent hosed all the way forward to the lifting ring then under the deck and ran back to engine.   The wires and control cables are on the outboard part of the removable deck, notched it out.   Made the forward part more user friendly and lightened it some.   I did cut a battery box and storage access panel between the seats and made lid out of coosa with carpet only, no glass.   

Made the panel that covers the gas tank out of coosa. 3 pieces.   center piece is the size of the removable deck.   made it lock in place using only 2 machine screws at the bottom.   Again made this section more user friendly.   Removable rear deck is not fastened down. I put notch blocks under it and notched the stringers to prevent the deck from moving forward or aft. The engine box holds it down on front end and the gas tank panel holds it down aft. I did not cut an access for the shaft log as I did not see the need for that in a boat that is kept on a trailer. I used GFO packing so it doesn't need that much adjustment after it was broken in.   (new shaft also)

Wow. Pretty extensive work there.
Curious, How is fresh air supplied to the engine box?

I ran the vent hoses around the battery box similar to the original design.

The stringers were constructed of 3/4" coosa. Doubled up on the stringers side by side for an 1 1/2" thickness. I layed a layer of chop mat over the stringers with a 2" flange to the hull, second layer was 1708 with a 4" flange to the hull. Probably overkill but I went with a third layer of chop mat with a 6" flange to the hull. Floor was 1/2" coosa with chop mat laminated underneath. Chop mat on top overlapping the stringers. A layer of 1708 over that. The white material is duratech, a marine grade bondo-type material. I used it as filler in cracks to help prevent leaking from the ballast.