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Very Hot blooded Python, overheating 210

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Hollywood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2016 at 12:45pm
Where you are putting the clear hose is the pressure side, it won't collapse.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alalor1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2016 at 4:25pm
Well, I could not find a spring to put inside the clear hose to prevent collapse. I tested for 15 minutes on the back yard, making sure there was water coming out the water intake, and when I reved up, less water came out, so it was sucking more. I noticed that the starboard exhaust put out more water than the port at idle, but it seemed to even out at 1300 rpm. But temperature stayed normal.
So I went to the lake as is, without the clear hose. Ran 10 minutes at the dock, no issue, temp gauge got to 165 and stayed there. So I left the dock and went to wakeboarding speeds with the RideSteady (cruise control) at 21..5 my usual speed, no problem, I ventured further and further, still no issues. EVery time I brought it to idle and checked the temperatures with the laser thermometer, the port side of the engine ran hotter. Like the manifold was like 15 to 25 degrees C hotter depending on the section I tested and the rpm it had been running on. I tested manifold, riser, elbow and close to the end by the hose.
Then I made a long run at 3000 rpm, like before, it was almost steady at 165.
So, it looks like problem fixed, the cause of the problem is still unknown. And I will still check the port exhaust, maybe the starboard too.
One of those ancient boat mysteries???
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2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong

I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2016 at 4:43pm
Well thats good news,it might have been a loose connection on the suction side.   Think of a drink straw that gets a kink in it and starts sucking air,you have trouble drinking thru it since it's pulling air and drink. It seems that many have one side that runs a litter warmer than the other,I just put all new exhausts on a 302 PCM and one side has more water coming out. One word of caution though ,don't use the word Python and my usual speed of 21.5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2016 at 5:20pm
Not sure what thermostat housing you have but some don't distribute as evenly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alalor1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2016 at 6:24pm
Holywood, I don't know how to attach pictures, but it is a much bigger thermostat housing than any of the 351w I had, looks kind of the one my fresh water cooled 351w had. I am going to take out the plug on the other side of the port manifold and flush it again, maybe if there's something blocking, ti will flush it out.
I think there was some kind of blockage somehwere and when I took out all the hoses at the thermostat housing and flushed them, i cleared the blockage, I am hoping it's that anyway and not something else that will come haunt me back soon.
I guess I could disconnect the two hoses that take water the the exhaust manifold and run the engine for a little bit and see if there is a difference in water volume to each side. Funny thing was that the valve cover was also a little warmer, but only like 5°C.
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2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong

I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alalor1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2016 at 6:30pm
Gary, thank you, not sure what it was, maybe I will never find out.
Can you please explain the reason for the caution and the usual speed? English is not my first language, I think there's something I'm not getting.
By the way, if any of your northerners who helped me feel withdrawls this winter, I will be very happy to give you some pulls here, lakes don't freeze in sunny Texas, we ride year round, and with the 8.2L (I'm avoiding using the engine's nickname as per above recommendation), I would have no problem pulling any of those few left slalom skiers either.
1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and
opposite economist.
2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong

I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2016 at 6:35pm
It's great it's running even though the exact cause wasn't determined. I too have a feeling there was an air leak on the suction side of the RWP. They are easily overlooked.

Yes, I also agree that some engines run hotter on one side.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2016 at 6:37pm
Alejandro,
Gary's statement on speed wasn't a caution at all. He was just joking with you regarding running a Python at such a low speed since it's certainly capable of lots more speed!!


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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2016 at 8:04pm
What Pete said. I was just joking with you,here you are with the largest production engine in a Ski Nautique going 21 mph.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alalor1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2016 at 8:49pm
Well, I was happy with the 351w powered nautiques, actually, until then, all inboard boats I had in the past had had that engine. But I was boatless and found this deal and decided to try this monster, and on a day to day basis, you can't tell the difference because I put a big prop as soon as I bought it, so it turns at 2400 rpm at the said speed, saving lots of gas. Also, I don't know how many of you have had crashes at higher speeds, they hurt a lot more!!!
I broke my ribs twice, in 4 weeks, behind a martinique at 23 mph
1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and
opposite economist.
2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong

I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote s_kelley2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2016 at 11:27am
The port side of my Python Super Sport runs hotter as well. It has been like this for the 5 years I have owned it so as others have said I suspect this is normal.

What are you running for a prop?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2016 at 11:44am
Port side on a v-drive is starboard on a d-drive and hotter [v-d] port manifold is consistent with what I've seen on some thermostat housings. The raw water comes around up near cylinder #1 and diverts to that side exhaust without sufficient mixing depending on the housing. Some housings are better than others. I actually melted through one exhaust feed hose it was so bad but now I've got each side within 2 degrees.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alalor1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2016 at 5:19pm
Hello
The port exhaust runs a lot hotter, i was wondering if it would help using the two plugs on the back of the exhaust manifolds (that is towards the bow of the boat) and putting a hose there connecting both, that would even out the water between both sides. I still see like a 20 degree C (about 36F) difference between them.
Other than that, yesterday we wakeboarded for 3 hours and it ran good, at idle the temperature is about 162F according the gauge, and goes up quickly to around 175F when revved up, but just stays there, doesn't overheat any more. I don't remember it doing that before, but I didn't pay too much attention, it just ran well.
1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and
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2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong

I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2016 at 5:24pm
It shouldn't raise in temperature with RPM. It should actually do the opposite, more RPM = more cold water = lower temperature. You still have a problem (thanks tim, need coffee).

I don't think connecting them will do much, it's more dependent on the water into the manifolds not out. The colder one will never warm up if it keeps getting fed cold water.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2016 at 5:27pm
Blockage not air leak.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alalor1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2016 at 1:40pm
Hello
I want to give an update to all those who helped me when I was having the overheating problem. The good side is the boat is running.
The bad side is that it still running the same way, even not that the lake temperature has gone down from 90°F to 76°, start it, takes a while to warm up, longer than before, temperature settles at 165°, then when we start pulling, it goes up to 175° in less than a minute, and when the rider falls and we go back to idle, engine water temperature goes down to 165° again. The behaviour has been very consistent, now that the water is slightly cooler, I can see some steam coming out of the exhaust flappers when I'm riding, but I used to see some before too, so I don't think I should worry too much (or should I?). We must remember this boat doesn't have muffler like the small bock engine boats, there's no room for it.
1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and
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2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong

I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2016 at 3:23pm
Originally posted by alalor1 alalor1 wrote:

Hello
I want to give an update to all those who helped me when I was having the overheating problem. The good side is the boat is running.
The bad side is that it still running the same way, even not that the lake temperature has gone down from 90°F to 76°, start it, takes a while to warm up, longer than before, temperature settles at 165°, then when we start pulling, it goes up to 175° in less than a minute, and when the rider falls and we go back to idle, engine water temperature goes down to 165° again. The behaviour has been very consistent, now that the water is slightly cooler, I can see some steam coming out of the exhaust flappers when I'm riding, but I used to see some before too, so I don't think I should worry too much (or should I?). We must remember this boat doesn't have muffler like the small bock engine boats, there's no room for it.

The 10 degree temp rise is normal under load. I wouldn't worry about it. Water temps really don't make much difference. There are so many pounds of water running through the engine there's more than enough available cooling no matter what the actual water temp is. Remember, the specific heat of water is 1 Btu/lb-F, or one Btu per pound per degree Fahrenheit.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2016 at 3:34pm
So you're only instrument has been the gauge on the dash? You might not be actually hot at all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2016 at 3:35pm
+1^^^
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GlassSeeker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2016 at 3:52pm
When I run my 383 stroker at 5100rpms my temp gauge goes up but it has no numbers so I don't worry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2016 at 2:19pm
I just want to see pics of the boat!

Alejandro, make sure to hit "post reply", and not type under the thread in "Quick reply". From there you can post pics.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alalor1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2016 at 2:54pm
Thank you for your messages and help to all of you (or to y'all as we say in Texas)
Here are some pictures of the boat that some requested.
1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and
opposite economist.
2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong

I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alalor1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2016 at 3:02pm
Notes on the pictures.
They are on Lake Bryan,
The picture of us working on the engine is of one of the days it overheated.
Many seats and backrests need new upholstery, it will be done this winter.
That weird thing on the dash is a Hydrophase RideSteady, it is an alternative to other speed controllers, I like it more, the stepper motor works more smoothly, the throttle linkage is more reliable, the programing and speed change easier and the customer service is excellent.
The dividers for the storage lockers (over the ballast tanks) and the engine are of my previous boat (a 2001 210 with a 351W).
I have the board racks, I put them on when I need them, but I have to take them out to protect the cover.
Last, three years owning this boat and I still don't know if I like or I hate the Super Air Nautique decals, they are so weird!
1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and
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2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong

I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2016 at 3:14pm
It's a lot harder putting the decals back on. They'll grow on you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2016 at 3:30pm
I would be more inclined to remove the 2nd set of reg numbers then those Kool decals.
In case you are not aware, keep an eye on that tower, seen many original FCT like yours crack/break over time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2016 at 7:05pm
Planet Nautique sells registration numbers in the Nautique font in white or black and in two sizes. I bought the smaller size. Very nice replacement for those red thingies.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2016 at 6:37pm
Awesome, keep the decals! My favorite SAN graphics, I like oldskool...! :)

And sounds like you've used both PP and Hydrophase, right? One of the next things on my list, so good to know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alalor1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2016 at 11:32pm
Hello, thank for the comment on the decals, so far I was able to live with them for 3 years, so I will probably keep them at least a few more years.
I like the colorado registration, I think it's really cool to have a boat that worked in high altitude and it also helps justify such a massive engine on such a boat, and last, I love that they finish on GO
I'm watching the tower carefully, and I'm ready to repair it. I know six boats with this tower, counting mine, only mine and a pro air didn't have cracks on top, right next to the welds on the inside of the curve, where they go flat. As most are so close to the curve and the cracks look like stress/fatigue cracks, I suspect it is due to the welder getting the pipe too hot and affecting the heat treatment of the pipe. I remember that when I fixed a FCT II tower that had been ran under a bridge, i was surprised to find that they made it out of 6063 to make it easier to form, but it makes it more flexible and more likely to fail due to fatigue, so I made my repairs (basicaly a whole new upper part of the tower that ended up being 4"taller) in 6061, and despite being taller, it was stiffer than the stock tower.
Last, I had 3 PP models, one accu-ski and I checked carefully and tested and rode behind boats with Smart Tow, Zero Off and the systems in the new Malibus and mastercrafts, I was very happy with what I found out about the Hydrophase, so I went with it. I don't regret it, makes driving so much easier and relaxed, and also when I have a newbie driving when I am being towed, I know the speed will be steady. I have the GPS version because I ride on lakes, but I think it's really cool they also offer the paddlewheel version for people who ride on rivers with current.
I will clean again all the exhaust systems again as soon as it cools down and start taking the boat out less often.
Thanks again for all the input to y'all!!!
1st. Law of Economics: For every economist, there's an equal and
opposite economist.
2nd. Law of Economics: They are both wrong

I'd rather be sailing ~~~_/)
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