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Fogging Spray

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    Posted: October-22-2015 at 3:33pm
Going to fog my GT 40 by pulling the plugs and spraying the cylinders. I was thinking I would just pick up a can of Sta-bil fogging spray or something but thought it was worth asking for recommendations or if there is anything I should stay away from?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2015 at 3:59pm
Glen,
All the commercial sprays are good. I've never heard of any problem. I've only used it a couple times when my normal wasn't around. My normal is 50% Marvel Mystery oil and 50% engine oil. I picked up using it back in the late 60's when I was at Watercraft Sales. BTW, it comes in handy for other general purpose oiling jobs too!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 5:11pm
Pete:

When you use the 50/50 juice, how much do you use in each cylinder? Do you rotate the engine a few turns to move the juice around a bit?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 6:25pm
I shoot it down carbs using a pump oiler. Actually down one, up one and sideways in the other!    I'd say I'll use about 3 oz. in the V8's. When it starts to smoke and die, I'll advance the throttle some, back off and it will choke the engine. On an injected engine, about 1/2 oz. per cylinder and then a couple cranks will do it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2015 at 1:55pm
I've never fogged either one of my boats. I just crank it and let it run no more than 10 seconds with the belt off the RWP of course once a month or two, It's full of water and anitfreeze. And I work the steering wheel back and forth.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2015 at 6:26pm
Originally posted by Tim D Tim D wrote:

. I just crank it and let it run no more than 10 seconds with the belt off the RWP of course once a month or two,


Actually this is worse than just leaving it alone. You are drawing moisture into a cold engine & then leaving it there. You would be better off to just turn it over with a breaker bar, 1 rev will do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2015 at 7:38pm
OK, so I went through the fogging process...sprayed oil in from spark plug holes, but when I tried to turn the engine, it wouldn't budge. I had all the plugs out and belts off and tried to turn the pulley manually but it wouldn't budge. What am I missing here?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2015 at 7:51pm
Glen,
You need leverage. A breaker bar with a socket on the crank bolt works. Why manually? Crank it with the starter!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2015 at 9:04pm
I thought it would have turned easier and didn't have anything else to use with me.

I don't have a water hook up for my intake. Is it ok to turn it over without connecting to a hose?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2015 at 9:13pm
Yes
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2015 at 9:43pm
I've already drained my block. As long as I put some antifreeze back in will the impeller be ok turning it over. Just don't want it to be completely dry, right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2015 at 11:24pm
Your not going to start it just have it turn a couple of revolutions. You could loosen or remove the belt on the pump too. I do on it and the alternator for the winter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2015 at 12:13am
Pull the high tension wire off the coil so it won't start. Turn the key for 5 seconds and you are good.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2015 at 12:30am
I think it would be easier on a 40 to pull the coil wire out of the cap and ground it too. I don't know how careful you need to be on these hi energy systems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2015 at 2:32pm
Guys, I think I can locate the coil, but not sure what wires you are talking about pulling. Gary how would I ground the wire. Can you give me some more details. Not to sound ignorant, but if the plugs are out, why would I have to worry about starting?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2015 at 3:29pm
Originally posted by Cumby Cumby wrote:

but if the plugs are out, why would I have to worry about starting?

Yup, I sure had a senior moment! Disregard that man behind the curtain.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AAM196 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2015 at 4:15pm
Hey Cumby, I remember the first time I tried to fog my GT40 it felt like it was never going to budge... but once I put a little leverage to it it turned just fine...

Yeah if you bump the throttle twice... that would do it too (If it starts without the plugs in it... that would be something!)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2015 at 5:16pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Cumby Cumby wrote:

but if the plugs are out, why would I have to worry about starting?

Yup, I sure had a senior moment! Disregard that man behind the curtain.


I understand that feeling. LOL.

So I can just bump it over without worrying about disconnecting anything?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2015 at 10:11pm
Just another thought, won't using the starter to turn the motor over inject more fuel into the cylinders?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2015 at 10:38pm
Does anyone know what size the crank bolt is, 15/16?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2015 at 10:41pm
Sounds about right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AAM196 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2015 at 12:20am
Yes, A 15/16 socket on a 1/2 drive with a 3" extension with just a little torque will do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2015 at 10:38am
Originally posted by Cumby Cumby wrote:

Just another thought, won't using the starter to turn the motor over inject more fuel into the cylinders?


I believe it will, so do not listen to Pete, lmao. Pulling coil probably only stop spark, I think lanyard will stop fuel, either way I would still do it by hand.

Fogging oil says 2 seconds a cyl, I do 1 second in each, rotate assembly 180, then do another round for 1 second, then rotate a few full rotations and you should be good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2015 at 10:58am
...and you rotate clockwise from your perspective facing the front of the engine, correct?

Don't know if this has happened to anyone else, but the spraying straw that came with the fogging oil I bought shot right off the can into the cylinder! Talk about freaking out. Luckily it was still visible enough to where I could reach it with some tweezers and needle nose players.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gtxragtop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-25-2015 at 10:35pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Pull the high tension wire off the coil so it won't start. Turn the key for 5 seconds and you are good.


Make sure you ground the coil wire you pulled from the distributor. Failure to do this could cause damage to the ignition system. Spark energy has to go somewhere and it may find electronic components.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gtxragtop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-25-2015 at 10:38pm
I fog the cylinders, pull the wire off the starter solenoid that cranks the engine over with the key, then short that connector on the solenoid to the +12V cable above it. Engine turns over, no ignition, no, fuel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2015 at 8:45pm
Originally posted by gtxragtop gtxragtop wrote:

pull the wire off the starter solenoid that cranks the engine over with the key, then short that connector on the solenoid to the +12V cable above it. Engine turns over, no ignition, no, fuel.

Dave,
Don't mess with disconnecting wires. It works better when you use one of these:



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gtxragtop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2015 at 9:45pm
I used these years ago. I cheaped out with a 4" long 14 gauge solid insulated wire with the ends stripped back 1/8"..On my boat you do need to pull the solenoid wire as the connector is insulated.
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