Perko Flush kit

The Perko system is a complicated over priced item that seems to break,says people who have used them. Read the first page of this it's what many of us here use- Timmy T

8122pbrainard wrote: I see if I can find a link to several threads here on site.

Dave,
Gary beat me to providing the link! Do read it since as mentioned it's simple, inexpensive and doesn't break. Disregard the picture of CQ! Hopefully you can return the Perco. Get in the habit of searching the site or asking first since CCfan has so much valuable information.

What's the intent of the hose connection? Just running the engine out of the water or do you run in salt/brackish water? If it's for winterizing, I'm not in favor of pumping the antifreeze through the system. Drain and pour just as the engine manuals recommend.

EDIT: Out of curiosity to see if Perco mentions anything about a "new and improved design", I went to their site. Nothing about the design mentioned but, I did happen to notice they have a chart that shows the pressure differential (CV value) across the Flush Pro. It must have been someone in marketing that decided to use the graph since from an engineering standpoint, it shows a fairly bad CV!

I have one installed in my Supra. Was there when i got the boat. It is convenient, I like it. No cracks or issues in several years of use, I think it's a great product.

Not sure I'd spend $150-ish to buy one new though, I'd probably make my own flushing setup with a T and some valves/adaptors.

Wouldn't you have reduced flow and some air to the RWP without a valve on the through hull side? Unless positioned so the through hull is uphill and RWP downhill...

I kind of like the 3 way valve right off the through hull method... Also gives you the option to turn the valve and use the RWP as a secondary/tertiary bilge pump depending on how you position it.

TRBenj wrote: cadunkle wrote: Wouldn't you have reduced flow and some air to the RWP without a valve on the through hull side? Yes. It's ok. The one thing those shut off valves are good for is frying impellers and overheating the motor when you forget to open it up after running on the trailer. KISS.

Cory,
You aren't spending enough time on CCfan searching and reading!!!

I don't even do that. I just stick my brass twist hose nozzle into the hose, twist it open a little, fire up the boat, then open it up more.

However, I do plan to add a Timmy Tee this year since I have little else to do other than oil and fluids when I W in a few weeks.

Why not add one -- a man has gotz to have boat projects to work on to keep sane. :)

M3Fan wrote: Even simpler (arguably I suppose) is to just take the output hose off the trans cooler, jam the garden hose end in there, secure with existing hose clamp, done. Been doing that for 10 years now, and lately on 2 separate boats, with no problems. Then again I don't run off the hose often.

Joel,
Not arguing but it sounds like you like to go searching for a ratchet/socket or a nut driver, stand on your head to get down to the trans cooler, loosen the hose on the trans cooler, fight with removing the hose and then tighten the garden hose in the cooling hose. The removal is then the opposite plus hoping the hose on the trans cooler doesn't suck air. To me, that sure is more complicated and time consuming than the Timmy T. With Gary's idea of using the quick connect garden hose fitting, you don't even have to screw on the garden hose! The Timmy T has to be at least 1/10th the time.

BTW, you too are forgetting that the garden hose pressure masks the RWP performance.