Forums
NautiqueParts.comNautiqueSkins.com - Correct Craft Upholstery and Part
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Winterizing Our 83
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

Winterizing Our 83

 Post Reply Post Reply   
Author
rman56 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: April-13-2009
Location: Kansas
Status: Offline
Points: 655
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rman56 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Winterizing Our 83
    Posted: August-24-2015 at 3:48pm
I have been very lucky and have always kept my boat in our climate controlled shop during the winter. This past spring we bought a place at the lake and I decided to store it there this winter due to being busy and space is now limited. Overall what's the best way to winterize it, simply drain water and fill with antifreeze?


Thanks
1983 Ski Nautique
Back to Top
Hollywood View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar

Joined: February-04-2004
Location: Twin Lakes, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 13510
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2015 at 3:50pm
Do a search, you'll find all the common practices. There is no "best" way. Drain and fill with a/f is a good one however that only protects the block there are aspects of "winterizing"
Back to Top
Toertel View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: August-26-2013
Location: Atlanta
Status: Offline
Points: 775
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Toertel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2015 at 3:56pm
Wow winterizing topics in August
Change oil, filter, drain, suck in antifreeze, take plugs out, spray fogging into hiles and put plugs back in, add stabil to fuel, disconnect battery....I think thats about it
Might want to put the smell dryer cloth in boat as they seem to prevent rodents from winterizing the biat for their needs
1994 Sport Nautique
Back to Top
rman56 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: April-13-2009
Location: Kansas
Status: Offline
Points: 655
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rman56 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2015 at 4:04pm
Its a bit early for sure but it crossed my mind so I thought I would post it.
1983 Ski Nautique
Back to Top
Toertel View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: August-26-2013
Location: Atlanta
Status: Offline
Points: 775
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Toertel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2015 at 4:07pm
Just saw you have an 83, so carb.
Scratch the spark plug part and spray fogging down the carb with engine running till it dies...same effect
1994 Sport Nautique
Back to Top
rebel skier View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: October-17-2014
Location: Middle Tenn
Status: Offline
Points: 769
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rebel skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2015 at 4:11pm
also, your manual is in the reference section of the website, with several pages on winterizing.

Back to Top
AAM196 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: October-23-2012
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Status: Offline
Points: 846
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AAM196 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2015 at 4:22pm
yeah man... too early! don't be that guy!

Use Marvel Mystery Oil instead of fog spray for your carb engine... just my 2 cents. Just pour down carb while you are sucking antifreeze in your engine and it will putter out... don't start pouring in until you are almost done sucking the antifreeze. If you have a heater... make sure antifreeze makes it thru all water lines.

Next change the oil and filter. fill gas tank and add marine sta-bil.   Change your impeller and transmission fluid every 2 or 3 years. inspect belts etc.

Love that year!!
Back to Top
Hollywood View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar

Joined: February-04-2004
Location: Twin Lakes, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 13510
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2015 at 4:28pm
If you are going to treat your fuel, treat it before the last run on the water so it gets through the system
Back to Top
Toertel View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: August-26-2013
Location: Atlanta
Status: Offline
Points: 775
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Toertel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2015 at 4:35pm
What HW said.
I would not change impeller/belts before/while winterizing, since they will be sitting (fins bent/belt under tension) all winter long, which will not make them any better.
I would do that when waking the beauty up in spring (just my 2 cts...oh wait, that'll be 1.75 Euro cents soon for me)
1994 Sport Nautique
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2015 at 7:11pm
Originally posted by Toertel Toertel wrote:

What HW said.
I would not change impeller/belts before/while winterizing, since they will be sitting (fins bent/belt under tension) all winter long, which will not make them any better.

I have NEVER removed an impeller or a belt in all the years and all the boats I have laid up. Hype from marina's to charge more $$$$$


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
Toertel View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: August-26-2013
Location: Atlanta
Status: Offline
Points: 775
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Toertel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2015 at 7:19pm
I also never removed it but the OP wants to change then while winterizing and that Inwould not do for the reasons stated before. Just a gut feel
1994 Sport Nautique
Back to Top
Gary S View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: November-30-2006
Location: Illinois
Status: Offline
Points: 14096
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2015 at 8:17pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Toertel Toertel wrote:

What HW said.
I would not change impeller/belts before/while winterizing, since they will be sitting (fins bent/belt under tension) all winter long, which will not make them any better.

I have NEVER removed an impeller or a belt in all the years and all the boats I have laid up. Hype from marina's to charge more $$$$$


I think it's done by the unscrupulous to get you to bring it back in the spring to "summerize" it.
69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport
Back to Top
AAM196 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: October-23-2012
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Status: Offline
Points: 846
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AAM196 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2015 at 2:19am
Sorry for not specifying... check/replace impeller in spring.

I'd use stabil every fill (1 oz per 10 gallons) unless you are able to get non ethanol gas. But when you store, fill tank and add stabil before you store.

I'm not sure how some claim to have never had to replace an impeller. In my experience this is a MUST every 3-4 years! Even if you just see slight wear it would be foolish to let a $25 part destroy your engine, exhaust etc as it takes less than a half hour to change/inspect!

I think it would be "unscrupulous" for a shop not to replace an impeller only to insure future repair from a customer!
Back to Top
Gary S View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: November-30-2006
Location: Illinois
Status: Offline
Points: 14096
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2015 at 2:45am
I rarely remove mine in the Holman Moody,while not hard to do its not as easy as a Sherwood on a PCM. The special paper thin gasket is close to 15 bucks alone. After checking it in the beginning of ownership I found its a non issue. The PCM's having an oring does make it easier so I usually do.
69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport
Back to Top
Gary S View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: November-30-2006
Location: Illinois
Status: Offline
Points: 14096
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2015 at 3:02am
If your replacing your impeller only every 3-4 years do you know that Sherwood recommends to replace it every year for light duty or every 6 months for severe duty? For light duty every 4 years they recommend a major rebuild kit? Every internal part save the shaft is replaced,severe duty is every 2 years. High rpm is considered severe duty. I wonder how many here are following the manufactures recommendations? For high hour use the recommendations are 1/2 of the above.
69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport
Back to Top
Hollywood View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar

Joined: February-04-2004
Location: Twin Lakes, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 13510
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2015 at 11:24am
Pete is talking about not discarding a perfectly good impeller for LAY UP. I've never gotten less than 6 years out of one. You could also change your oil every 25 hours but I won't be doing that either.

A bad impeller won't destroy an engine, that made me think of this... It's not the speed that kills, it's the sudden stop!
Back to Top
phatsat67 View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: March-13-2006
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 6147
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2015 at 11:29am
Agree with HW, treat the fuel on the last run.

G21 impellers last forever. 350ish hours out of my last impeller. I always turn the pump to get the excess water out with the hoses off and turn it backwards for winter so it pulls the fins the other way. I also turn it by hand in spring so it doesn't rip off any of the stuck fins. This method has always got me into the 300+ hour mark and 3+ years.
Back to Top
AAM196 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: October-23-2012
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Status: Offline
Points: 846
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AAM196 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2015 at 4:53pm
You will burn up exhaust and muffler... I guarantee it! Zach is right on the money around.. 300 hours is about the max life expectancy.

I must have been 12ish when I my dad burned up the exhaust 15 minutes into our vacation and we spent the next day or two and $550 to replace the exhaust at the lake it was a 1983 MC he bought used 86 and this happened in 1988. At that time it probably cost $10 for the part. We didn't know the previous owner never replaced it. we were on the lake smoking like crazy sitting dead in water with a bilge full of water and had to get towed in. Scary! We changed it every two years as habit... most we ever paid for part is around $28 recently. While sometimes they look ok... we just replace and keep old one for back up... most of the time you can see slight wear near base of the fins starting.

Fast forward to 2012, I bought my 99SN with around 400 hours on consignment from a big Nautique Dealer I had them do compression check and thorough inspection... 9 hours into ownership I notice the temp rising at idle but ok at speed... opened the the Sherwood pump to find 3 blades torn and was lucky to find 98% of pieces.

Don't be cheap! You can change you impeller out 4 times (at least) for the cost of one tank of gas... why would you chance it?. Probably can do it before your oil drains!
Back to Top
Hollywood View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar

Joined: February-04-2004
Location: Twin Lakes, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 13510
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2015 at 5:36pm
Wait, you mean overheating will burn up exhaust and muffler, but not a bad impeller. Plenty other ways to overheat. Must be why there is a temperature gauge, so you can shut down before overheating...

If you don't dry fire your impeller it will last many years. I went over 400 hours on the one that came in the boat. The vanes began to set and it would slowly creep down from 190 after barefoot runs. Then I did another 500 on a 20 year old NOS impeller (in a cardboard box not shrink wrapped). One spring I dry started it at the ramp and spun the hub loose of the vanes that were all intact and supple.
Back to Top
AAM196 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: October-23-2012
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Status: Offline
Points: 846
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AAM196 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2015 at 6:27pm
Yep... overheating burns up exhaust with bad impeller being the root cause. Seems like everyone is agreeing that an impeller is a wear part that needs to be replaced.   

Exactly... with a worn out impeller the temp rises at idle/low rpm and will often cool at high rpm. I guess you can wait for this to happen to get an extra few hours from a $25 rubber part. Wonder what it cost in today's money to replace an exhaust system, muffler, pump etc if you push it just a bit too far... what if you are on a river and must run engine to avoid going over damn?

Again, my impeller was missing 3 fins before the temp even rose 5 degrees above normal while idling!!! This was at 420 hours. I am sure the impeller was showing wear for the last 20 hours or so and in my opinion should have been routinely inspected the spring a few months before I bought boat.
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2015 at 9:02pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Must be why there is a temperature gauge, so you can shut down before overheating....

My very first thought! Sound advice is to watch the gauges very closely when you drop the boat in for the first 15 minutes!


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
AAM196 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: October-23-2012
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Status: Offline
Points: 846
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AAM196 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2015 at 4:16pm
Agreed... watch gauge... but don't just sit and wait for it to fail if you haven't replaced in a few years... why not be proactive and look or just replace .

If your tires were bald you wouldn't wait till you slid off the road or had a blow out now would you?
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Copyright 2024 | Bagley Productions, LLC