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'56 Graymarine |
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mtguy 
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Joined: August-04-2008 Location: Priest Lake, ID Status: Offline Points: 165 |
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 Topic: '56 GraymarinePosted: August-04-2015 at 12:48am |
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After just fixing Tique, now I need a new trans. oil cooler for my woody....Motor: ~'56 Graymarine Fireball V-8. I need the tubular-type tranny oil cooler. Apparently I left some water in last fall...Grr.
I've been doing searches online, but was wondering if someone here has a 'go-to' company for this type of part. Thanks, ~Pete |
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'95 SN
'53 Hutchuck '56 Essaness Craft |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: August-04-2015 at 7:27am |
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Pete,
How bad is the cooler? Typically it's the outer shell that is damaged or the end caps push out. Pressure test the oil circuit to confirm it's good and then consider a repair. If it's just a solder joint, re solder. If the shell is cracked, solder on a patch. Ven Ness engineering bought up all the Gray parts if you don;t want to repair it but expect to pay some big $$$. Pictures? |
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mtguy
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Joined: August-04-2008 Location: Priest Lake, ID Status: Offline Points: 165 |
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Posted: August-04-2015 at 11:07am |
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Thanks. The end cap actually just pushed out on one end, not pushed all the way off however. Looks like it could be soldered. Is the cooler brass? Can I use a regular solder on brass or is there special solder wire? There doesn't appear to be any other damage except to my knuckles trying to get the damn thing out. I didn't take any pic's, but will after I get it out again. I tried using some marine JB Weld and it didn't work at all. I'll grind that off gently and try to solder it once I hear back on the type of solder to use. (I know that was a dumb idea on my part)
Thanks again! ~Peter |
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'95 SN
'53 Hutchuck '56 Essaness Craft |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: August-04-2015 at 7:31pm |
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Peter,
Solder will do it. It's just like sweating copper pipe fittings together.  on the JB. Just like WD40, it's just a big marketing scam on the unsuspecting DIY'r. The stuff is formulated so anyone can handle the 50-50 mix.If they get it 40-60 or 60-40, it will still cure BUT, the formulation yields poor physical properties like strength!!!! You're better off getting one of the epoxies in the dual syringe and if needed mixing in a thickener..
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long123
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Joined: July-08-2015 Location: gfxmjgh Status: Offline Points: 16 |
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Posted: August-11-2015 at 2:03am |
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There doesn't appear to be any other damage except to my knuckles trying to get the damn thing out. I didn't take any pic's, but will after I get it out again. I tried using some marine JB Weld and it didn't work at allxiaomi mi3 review
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mtguy
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Joined: August-04-2008 Location: Priest Lake, ID Status: Offline Points: 165 |
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Posted: August-14-2015 at 12:30pm |
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OK. So I decided since I needed new seals for the intake manifold to spend the $$ and buy a new cooler from Graymarine. $175 -ouch! Got her installed along with seals. Runs like a top...until I get her over 2,000RPM's, where the temp gauge starts climbing from 145 (normal) to 160-165ish. Cools back down if I slow down. I changed impeller, even though old one looked fine. Any suggestions? Seems like it must be water flow, but it is confusing why it starts heating up when going fast not slow.
Any words of advice (besides no more JB Weld)? ~~Peter |
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'95 SN
'53 Hutchuck '56 Essaness Craft |
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a0128
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Joined: May-05-2014 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 226 |
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Posted: August-14-2015 at 1:57pm |
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Check all your hose clamps for tightness. Likely you have an air leak that shows up under higher RPMs. Tighten with a ratchet verses a socket wrench or nut driver. Hoses will be more pliable when warm so tighten up once the motor is warmed up.
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mtguy
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Joined: August-04-2008 Location: Priest Lake, ID Status: Offline Points: 165 |
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Posted: August-14-2015 at 3:23pm |
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Thanks, I'll check them all. I noticed a bit of an air leak out of manifold exhaust hose as I saw a couple drips of water...Perhaps I start there. I do use a ratchet to tighten, but doesn't mean one isn't a bit loose as some of the locations are a bear to reach. Does anyone else cuss at engineers while taking off 4 things to get to the one that you actually need to get to?
Won't be able to work on until later today, but will report back. Any other suggestions are very welcome. ~Pete |
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'95 SN
'53 Hutchuck '56 Essaness Craft |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: August-14-2015 at 8:36pm |
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Peter,
An engine under load and at higher rpm's produces more heat. I don't consider 165 to be high. It's not hose clamps allowing air to be sucked in. If that was the case, you would see the high temp at lower rpm's. and even idle. |
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mtguy
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Joined: August-04-2008 Location: Priest Lake, ID Status: Offline Points: 165 |
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Posted: August-15-2015 at 11:35am |
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It has been in high 90's here as well, so maybe that is part of it. The only overheating I've ever had is due to impellers. It seemed strange to get better at low speeds...
Thanks. I'll just keep an eye on it. |
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'95 SN
'53 Hutchuck '56 Essaness Craft |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: August-15-2015 at 2:19pm |
The engine cooling come from the water so ambient air temps have no effect. |
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mtguy
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Joined: August-04-2008 Location: Priest Lake, ID Status: Offline Points: 165 |
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Posted: August-16-2015 at 11:59am |
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I took her out last night and she ran good and the temps stayed below 165. They did go up from 145-150ish area to 160-165, once RPM's went above about 2500. Never went higher and as soon as I slowed down, the temps started to drop. Perhaps I'm being paranoid!
I mentioned the temps. because the motor was hotter than hell while I was working on it in the sun. The lake water is warm, but not that warm. Today was a cooler 80 degrees. Thanks for your help. |
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'95 SN
'53 Hutchuck '56 Essaness Craft |
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mtguy wrote: