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Steering question

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    Posted: April-18-2015 at 8:21pm
I'm looking at a 99 Ski Nautique. Drove it today. Noticed the steering was effortless to the left but going back to the right had a good bit of resistance. According to the owner the steering cable was replaced about 2 years ago. Does that sound normal...any other issues to worry about or no big deal?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2015 at 8:26pm
Glen,
Any inboard with steer harder in one direction due to prop torque. Test the steering again when not under power. The effort should be the same in ether direction.

BTW, it's not left or right. In a boat it's starboard or port!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2015 at 8:46pm
So that could be normal if the resistance is the same both ways when idling? Been a long time but I just didn't remember that in older boats I've driven.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhersey29 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2015 at 8:56pm
That boat is really easy to replace the cable. You don't have to pull the gas tank like the boats where they laid it flat. I've done 3 steering cables in the last 12 months. The 2001 year was the hardest. The 1997 was tricky only because the heater hoses made it a pita. My 99 was pretty easy. You could also repack the rudder. With new cables I don't notice a difference between either direction. The cable isn't that expensive. I wouldn't make that a deal breaker.

Basic things to for
Compression - even and above 100 depending on elevation
Water in oil - tranny and engine
Trailer bunks and trailer condition. Brakes working, bunks reasonable.
Thermostat housing upper and lower in good shape?

That boat is really easy to work on if your mechanically inclined and willing to do some research.

You didn't mention the motor model. So consider that. The GT40 is a nice motor.

How many hours?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2015 at 9:15pm
GT 40 with about 450 hrs. Has something going on with the engine cutting out when it reaches so many RPMs, I thought I read about some ignition issues with those years. He's taking to CC dealer to get it looked at.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2015 at 9:44pm
GT 40 with about 450 hrs. Has something going on with the engine cutting out when it reaches so many RPMs, I thought I read about some ignition issues with those years. He's taking to CC dealer to get it looked at.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhersey29 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2015 at 10:34pm
Oil pressure low or hot engine can cause that. So bad engine coolant sensor or bad oil pressure switch. If not just a sensor failure the oil pump is hard to replace but can be done. The worst part is the timing cover and oil pan gaskets are sort of tied together. Messing with one can cause issues with the other due to the way they meet at the oil pan cover and timing cover housing. Also requires lifting the engine up enough to remove the pan. You then also have to realign the engine to the drive shaft.   Water pump is easy to replace with just minor pulling apart of the front of the engine and a few gaskets.

450 hours is very low and would be awesome if the compression also says it is low on hours as in higher compression. The Ford compression ratio is pretty low. 160 would be an amazing number at sea level. 100 to 120 in Denver is good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimsport93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2015 at 10:36pm
Pretty low hours for a 16 year old boat. How long has it been since it was used regularly? Has it sat up for a while?
Steering cable replaced about 2 years ago.....maybe 5? Could be stiff from lack of use. May loosen up with more use. May need replacing. Not a deal breaker.
Definitely something going on with the motor going into limp mode. Should be a fixable problem.
Work through it with the owner if it is the boat for you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2015 at 11:36pm
One of the times we were able to get it up to speed we hit upper 30's, maybe 40 with more throttle to go. It did sit last year (hence why he's selling) but has been used some every year prior to that. Oil and temp gauges both appeared normal. Engine light was coming on as it started acting up. It ran good up to a specific RPM but when pushed over that it would kind of stall in a pulsing pattern. I'm curious to see what the mechanic says, but certainly sounds fixable to me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhersey29 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2015 at 12:51am
The engine has 3 water related senders/switches

1. Water Temperature Switch - triggers when engine water temperature is too hot and shuts down the rpms.

2. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor - tells the ECM(Engine Control Module) the temperature of the engine so it can adjust to temperature.

3. Temperature Sender - Tells the gauge what to display only. Does not talk to the computer at all. So the gauge can say one thing but the computer will can get a completely different signal from the ECT or Water Temp. Switch.

Oil Pressure has 2

Oil Pressure Switch - Shuts down the rpms at the ECM if the oil pressure is too low.

Oil Pressure Sender - Tells the gauge what to display but has nothing to do what with what the computer thinks the oil pressure is. Same as water you can see one thing on the gauge but the computer will get a different signal.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhersey29 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2015 at 12:57am
I think the engine light on is a good thing. At least the computer is telling you something is wrong and hopefully is reporting the correct thing. These first generation MPI systems are a bit buggy.

OBD1 is what I remember the GT40 using.

Codes are here if you want to code read it yourself:
http://straighttalkautomotive.com/OBD1/ford-OBD-I.html

Also remember this generation of boat is an open loop system and does not have an Oxygen Sensor for feedback so the computer has to assume that things are correct versus measuring the exhaust oxygen levels
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2015 at 2:03am
If you disconnect the SLOW switches one at a time you will determine the faulty switch.

If you're going through hell, keep going

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<a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2015 at 8:24am
Originally posted by jhersey29 jhersey29 wrote:

I think the engine light on is a good thing. At least the computer is telling you something is wrong and hopefully is reporting the correct thing. These first generation MPI systems are a bit buggy.

OBD1 is what I remember the GT40 using.

Codes are here if you want to code read it yourself:
http://straighttalkautomotive.com/OBD1/ford-OBD-I.html

Also remember this generation of boat is an open loop system and does not have an Oxygen Sensor for feedback so the computer has to assume that things are correct versus measuring the exhaust oxygen levels
.

Here are the codes


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-29-2015 at 6:38pm
Engine problem was an oil pressure sensor.
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