Sahara S500 Bilge Wiring

Take the brown wire and run it straight to the battery with an 3 amp fuse and that will dive you a true automatic bilge pump.

You should have a SPDT pump switch (3 position). One position is off - next position is manual on - last position is auto on. Ohm out the switch terminals to determine the function of each of the 3 terminals. Feed the switch common from the battery via a fuse or from the Batt. terminal on the ignition switch. The second terminal will go to the "on" which should be the brown but confirm with your wiring diagram. The third terminal will go to the brown with the white tracer for the auto function.

Wire connections in a wet bilge need to be sound. I recommend butt splices with an adhesive lined heat shrink covering. When using them, I also like to "tin" my wire ends.

Orlando76 wrote: The only problem with the 3 way switch, when you're wife grabs her purse under the dash as you jump off the dock and the purse hits that switch back off.... Fast forward a summer rain shower and 2 pitchers of Margharitas and water is almost up to your starter.

Making sure the switch is on auto is true and the same as remembering if the garboard plug is in or not!

The alternate is a SPST switch for the manual on. Then, a direct connect (via a fuse) to the batt. terminal on the ignition switch for the auto function.

leetudor wrote: Orlando76 wrote: ugh! A battery should never have more than 1 wire per terminal. I have seen new boats wired that way, as in left the factory wired in that manner.

Lee,
Even though I did mention it, it's really not the correct way. Do you feel all boats from the factory have been built correctly? CC for example, certainly has done some weird things through the years!
Also, don't forget dealer add on's.

Kostas,

What does your dash switch set up look like?

Mine has a pushbutton breaker for auto, and another one for manual.

Does that bilge switch you're using stay hot even with the key turned off? Just checking, because if not, you wouldn't really have automatic, even with the bilge switch on.

So you don't have a manual on, which is not a problem unless the float switch breaks.

What's the second from the top (unmarked) toggle switch for on my "84 SN 2001?

OldSchoolBlue84 wrote: My goal is to have the switch to the off position and have the auto float kick on when needed. Also would like to be able to flip the switch to the on position to manually turn the pump on. Do I need a three way switch? Thanks have a good one. Thanks

To achieve this you would simply do as the first reply said. You would wire the manual wire to the switch you have, and the float would be wired to an always hot 12v, or the battery. then the switch would be there when you needed it. Also a high water alarm is a cheap piece of security and worth the money in my opinion.
I see no real reason other than aesthetics to not have more than one wire going to a battery terminal. It doesn't make sense to have a separate + terminal mounted remotely just for use of the bilge pump.But if your boat has a Buss bar that has a hot lead when ignition is off you may be able to wire to that dependant on wire sizes and length of run.
I have a fused (close to battery) #10AWG going to a remote mounted bus bar that is always hot and all three of my bilge pumps are wired to that (essentially directly to battery) But common practice is to wire bilge pumps this way, and not all manf. use the three way toggle switches. this eliminates all chances of human error. even if you have a battery disconnect they will always be functional.
I wouldn't stack more than one or two wires onto a terminal though, at that point i would mount a separate bulkhead mounted terminal or bus for said items. just because its cleaner.