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operating temp question

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    Posted: October-29-2013 at 7:23pm
Our boat runs 160 degrees all day long (351W carbed, with Protec). She occasionally creeps to 170, but for very short periods of time. We mostly run slower speeds around 18-20 when wakeboarding and maybe hit 35 when crossing the lake. very little time spent at WOT.

I called Nautiques of Orlando today to ask a question about oil and when I told them what temp our boat runs at, they said I should be running 140, not 160 and to swap my thermostat.

Manual states 140-170 is normal. Am I OK with running 160?

I have no idea what stat is in there. I will check it this weekend when I change the oil and oil pressure switch.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald80SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2013 at 7:25pm
I run 140 (F).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2013 at 7:28pm
With a 140 thermostat in a PCM Ford, normal running temperatures will be much closer to 160 than 140. Running in the 160-170 range is pretty normal- I wouldnt touch it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2013 at 7:42pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

With a 140 thermostat in a PCM Ford, normal running temperatures will be much closer to 160 than 140. Running in the 160-170 range is pretty normal- I wouldnt touch it.


That's what I thought, but he made it seem like that was way too hot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2013 at 9:20pm
What is the temperature gauge say directly in the center of it? 160? That's what my 89 says. I was always told you read gauges at normal readings in the center. So you make a glance and know its fine. SkiDim says a little higher temp makes fuel atomize better and a 170 temp is not all that high. I like the boat temping at 160 personally.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2013 at 11:40pm
Yeah, the gauge has 160 at the 12 O'Clock. I always keep an eye on the temp gauge when I'm out. That and the oil pressure gauge. I am constantly checking them both. It's almost always pointing straight up.

Here's a pic of the gauge:

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 89Martinique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2013 at 11:43pm
Don't trust the gauge. Due to voltage voltage drop the readings are higher one the gauges. This is due to poor grounding. I run a 143* in the CC it runs normally 150~160. Supra runs a 160* and it runs 170~180.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2013 at 11:45pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

With a 140 thermostat in a PCM Ford, normal running temperatures will be much closer to 160 than 140. Running in the 160-170 range is pretty normal- I wouldnt touch it.


TRBenj is the expert; but for what it's worth I've got 2 oldies; one's a Ford, the other a Chrysler, and I've never worried much about a specific "recommended" temperature range, but as an admitted "OCD" Gauge Watcher I just keep watch for regularity and consistency, and they've both run well for close to 40 years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2013 at 8:10am
Originally posted by 89Martinique 89Martinique wrote:

Don't trust the gauge. Due to voltage voltage drop the readings are higher one the gauges. This is due to poor grounding. I run a 143* in the CC it runs normally 150~160. Supra runs a 160* and it runs 170~180.


Good to know. I have access to an infrared thermometer and I can double check the temps where the sensor is located just to be sure.

I also ran a fresh ground and a negative bus bar to the underside of my dash with all new grounds going to every gauge on my dash. I'm pretty sure I've got the poor grounding issue resolved.

The gauge used to read fine, then peg out after a few minutes and stay that way all day. Since I added the bus bar, everything has been reading nice and steady.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2013 at 9:28am
Gauges are not grounded at the dash, so that has nothing to do with readings. Supply voltage drop can affect them though. I run 150-160 deg F. You are good as is, IMO.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2013 at 10:01am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Gauges are not grounded at the dash, so that has nothing to do with readings. Supply voltage drop can affect them though. I run 150-160 deg F. You are good as is, IMO.


So where are the gauges grounded? Now I'm curious.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2013 at 10:14am
In normal summer temperatures mine runs right at 155-160 and has never changed (we started barefooting more this year) and it freaked me out because it would climb to 180 or so still running at idle which is normal but I have never done long soak WOT runs before this year much since we never barefooted.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2013 at 8:07pm
Gauges ground through the sensor (on engine). Only the backlight is grounded at the dash, which has nothing to do with the accuracy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2013 at 8:39pm
AKA... the sender wire IS the ground.

JPASS, careful what "advice" you take
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2013 at 9:47pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

AKA... the sender wire IS the ground.

JPASS, careful what "advice" you take


Good to know. Thanks. Just replaced the sensor last month. So I know it's good.

I hear ya about heeding advice. We've only had our SN since June, so we are still learning things. This site has been priceless for it's wealth of knowledge.

I'm pretty sure my running temps are OK based on everyone's replies and the owner's manual. When the boat is down, I'll have a look at the stat just to be sure everything is OK.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 89Martinique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 2:55am
the sensor wire is NOT the ground for the guage! watch what happens when you discount the ground on the back of your gauge, the gauge PEGS to MAX! there are 2 magnetic coils in a gauge, a fixed coil, and a rotating coil. One the is on the constant 12+ to negative ground. the other coil is attached to the needle and is hooked up to 12+ and the sensor wire which the sensors ground based on readings to the sensors. If your grounding under the dash is poor then the fixed coil has a weaker field trying to fight the sensor coil. Therefore the sensor coil can rotate more showing a higher reading...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 9:04am
OK, news to me about the 2nd coil, I stand corrected.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2013 at 10:55am
That's an attempt to explain how the actual gauge works, but the signal from the sending unit is still a "ground". It's a circuit anyway, so it really doesn't matter what you call it.

Sending unit needs to function properly with clean connections for the gauge to have any chance at reading properly. I cannot comment on how to troubleshoot an actual gauge itself. Obviously it needs clean electrical connections as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pmt2234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2013 at 10:48am
Before I replaced all the wiring from the dash to the motor on my 1984, my temp reading would jump every time I switched on the rear bilge blower. Now it doesn't budge. I had lots of voltage drop at the 8 pin connector, and some corrosion under the wire terminal crimps.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2019 at 6:31am
So with a FWC motor running a 170 degree thermostat, I should be in the 190 degree range?
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