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Coupler Removal and Install

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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 6:57pm
Travis,
What will happen with that loose fit is the coupling and shaft will fret. The fretting will get worse and worse, to the point where it will even pound out the points of the set screws. Those set screws by the way are in there as a safety. I have seen the fit get so bad that when the boat was put in reverse, the prop shaft and prop went back and hit the rudder. A spit coupling is certainly a good option. The other option many have gone to is a double taper shaft. Bothe ends have the taper so both the prop and coupling are solidly held on with the tapers. That option is more money but, the option also makes it easy to remove the coupling easily.


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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 8:21pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Yep, no good... tolerance should measure negative with an interference fit. Pete will remind us by how much.


The number I've been told ( by an old machinist} is .0005 inches per inch of shaft size for an interference fit when the shaft has a keyway and key for the coupling. (like this shaft for an inboard) I figure there are a variety of numbers used by different people for all kinds of different applications

Even a split coupling should be a very light press fit on the shaft, or in other words you don't slide it on with a couple thousandths clearance and expect to be able to tighten the bolts and have it hold very good.

This is from a guy that does his hack jobs in the backyard, maybe a real Machinist like Duane will add some info about this   
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