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Replacing a steering cable 95’ Nautique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ellisaudio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2012 at 1:08pm
After reading a few discussion topics regarding steering cable replacement, and replacing my steering cable, I would like to offer my 2c.

The prevailing sentiment seems to be that pulling the old cable from under the dash should work best. It didn't work for me. My 89' 2001 has a curve in the cable routing tunnel under the drivers seat. I could NOT get the old cable around this curve. This is the result:



I managed to BEND the stiff end of the old cable that nominally attaches to to rudder. And, I never managed to get the old cable removed this way. BAH!!!

So, I decided to pull the old cable from the back and remove it successfully. I tied a rope to the old cable before pulling:



After I managed to remove the old cable I tied the rope to the new cable above the nut:



I then taped the rope to the floppy end of the cable to protect the cable and to provide a proper lead:



This method worked VERY well for me.

I apologize for the fuzzy pictures, I probably managed to get some grease on the camera lens of my phone.

So, for me, pulling the cable from the back and inserting the new cable from the back worked wonderfully well !!

Thanks to all that post in this discussion forum and contribute to the excellent Nautique heritage - especially TRJBenj

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2012 at 1:14pm
David, glad to hear you got it done!

Not sure why you thought pulling the cable out from the front would be the preferred method though (unless maybe it was a R&P system). I would have suggested doing it exactly as you did. Much easier if you dont have to pull the bulky rudder end through the conduit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ellisaudio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2012 at 2:49pm
I can't convey any of the differences with regard to the steering configuration. Most of the forum discussion(s) conveyed that guys would tie the rope to the rudder connection hole, then pull from the front.

And the steering is silky smooth !!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Polar Express Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2012 at 1:19am
happy to see this thread...I have a '96, and my steering is heavy while at speed, but seems fine at idle. Maybe it's the cable... ??? hope so...

Since I haven't even looked at it yet, do the OE ones, or the replacements have zerks to grease them?

PE
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ellisaudio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2012 at 5:26pm
My new cable was a CC product, and did not have a grease czerk. I don't know if other aftermarket cables have a czerk.

I did add a grease czerk to my rudder housing last summer. I think this helped somewhat, but the impact was relatively minimal. I did notice a fair amount of scratchy wear on the rudder when I removed it. I hope the grease will minimize this wear.

Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnsugar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2015 at 7:24pm
Thanks for those who have contributed here as it helped me replace my steering cable on my 95SN. Now I have a question and can't find out an answer after a search.

I want to put a grease zerk on the rudder box but want to add an 18" extension pipe with the grease fitting at the end so I can access it for lubrication easily. Anyone has info on how to do this? Thanks, John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2015 at 7:47pm
John,
Remote lube points are common when access to zerk fittings is blocked. I suggest copper tubing compression fittings and then a coupling or better yet a bulkhead fitting at the remote zerk. I don't recommend a rigid 18" extension since it would be to easy to break off.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnsugar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2015 at 7:52pm
Thank you! What I don't know is how a permanent extension would attach to the zerk. What part would go over the zero and stay on?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ellisaudio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2015 at 7:52pm
I placed my zerk immediately on the post that houses the rudder. I simply drilled and tapped the post (without the rudder present) and screwed-in the zerk. This works fine and isn't too much of a hassle to access. I grease my rudder every 10 - 20 hours and this is probably overkill. I do think the zerk and grease makes the rudder move easier in the housing.

In my 89 Ski Nautique there really isn't a place to mount an external zerk an plumb a copper hose setup to the rudder housing.   I'd worry about breaking the plumbing hose for the zerk.

My 2c,

Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2015 at 8:41pm
Originally posted by johnsugar johnsugar wrote:

Thank you! What I don't know is how a permanent extension would attach to the zerk. What part would go over the zero and stay on?

1/8" pipe thread is a common size for a zerk fitting. Drill and tap the rudder port 1/8" pipe, Then a 1/8" male to 1/4" tube compression fitting. The 1/4" copper tubing. Another 1/8" pipe to 1/4" compression. A 1/4" pipe coupling and then the zerk. There should be enough room between the zerk hex and the coupling for about a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum for a mount. Drill a 13/32" hole in it for the zerk and then holes for whatever screws you want to mount it with.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2015 at 8:47pm
Originally posted by ellisaudio ellisaudio wrote:

In my 89 Ski Nautique there really isn't a place to mount an external zerk an plumb a copper hose setup to the rudder housing.   I'd worry about breaking the plumbing hose for the zerk.
Dave

Dave,
Enough room? You just haven't looked. How about several extra feet of copper and mount it next to the engine under the dog house? If you are worried about breaking a 1/4" piece of copper tubing, I suggest you never lift the dog house for anything.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ellisaudio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2015 at 10:40am
Your poke is fair.

I have some issues, and a bias too.

I am complicated.

Issues:

I have a very mild oil leak from the valve cover gaskets that I already replaced. I lose some oil in the bilge and I wipe my bilge with paper towels every 5-10 hours of use. I don't want another floppy piece of hose that I have to wipe around in my bilge. This would simply be another tedious annoyance that I don't want to mess with.

I purchased a new grease gun Lincoln Grease Gun for my Marine grease and the nozzle is darn stubborn. Either the nozzle leaks (too loose) or the nozzle is darn difficult to release (too tight). I don't have this problem with my other guns. Candidly, I really like my John Deere grease gun. // In any event, the nozzle for my Marine grease gun is so darn tight that I managed to pull a zerk from the trailer shackle bolts. It was press-fit and I managed to pull it out while attempting to remove the nozzle from the zerk. So.... my problem wouldn't be where to run the hose, but also where to MOUNT the zerk - in a very solid fashion. //   When the grease in the Lincoln gun expires, I will be tossing it in the garbage and buying another John Deere gun. Even with a good grease gun, I would feel the need to mount the zerk on some sort of angle iron bolted to the block. Sure, there is a way to do this, but why mess with it....

My bias:

Perhaps I should have been more direct (and thorough) initially...

Mounting the zerk on the rudder housing is soooooo easy and works sooooo well. I really don't see any valid reason to do anything else. Accessing the housing takes about 30 seconds and the zerk is very solid.

My 2c,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2015 at 11:45am
David,
What type of valve cover gasket did you use? There's a possibility that you over torqued the bolts? The valve covers can get warped and cause a problem at times.

Sorry to hear about your problem with the Lincoln gun. I consider the brand to be the best but, who knows, maybe they too are having them made over China! Buy a new tip (zerk coupling) for it and see if it works better before going with the Deere. It too may be made over there now?

My suggestion for the remote zerk, was to build it using 1/4" copper tubing. I don't consider it to be "floppy". If anyone does go this route, I'd also suggest fastening the tubing to a stringer with tube clamps. Yes, keeping the zerk firmly attached and anchored is important for attaching and detaching the gun. A bulkhead fitting internally taped for 1/8" pipe anchored to a substantial bracket would be the ultimate.



It's great you can access your rudder port zerk so easily. Some can't. and the reson for the remote zerks.

Are we ever going to see some pictures of you boat?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnsugar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2015 at 10:23am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by johnsugar johnsugar wrote:

Thank you! What I don't know is how a permanent extension would attach to the zerk. What part would go over the zero and stay on?

1/8" pipe thread is a common size for a zerk fitting. Drill and tap the rudder port 1/8" pipe, Then a 1/8" male to 1/4" tube compression fitting. The 1/4" copper tubing. Another 1/8" pipe to 1/4" compression. A 1/4" pipe coupling and then the zerk. There should be enough room between the zerk hex and the coupling for about a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum for a mount. Drill a 13/32" hole in it for the zerk and then holes for whatever screws you want to mount it with.
Sorry it's upside down.

Thank you for taking the time to respond. I'm a greenhorn with this so I don't completely understand. I want an extension that is flexible so copper tubing might not be a good idea. My rudder box on the 95SN is hard to access with a fuel tank drop down right in front of it.
It will be hard to get the drill gun back there and also wrenches to drop the rudder but I will manage.. I just want to be able to grease the box without having to remove the floorboard. I intend to have a flexible hose that sticks out where there is a space just aft of the center floorboard and the fuel tank...it's a good spot that I can get to easy. Of course I can run a line to the engine compartment too. Am I putting in a zerk directly on the rudder box with an attachment that will stay on it or would I be attaching some other fitting on the rudder box?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2015 at 12:11pm
Does this boat have a zerk fitting on the rudder box to start, or no?

Nautiqueparts does sell a ready made remote access kit. Albeit, it's pretty darn expensive for what it is. It looks like the hose would just thread in in place of the zerk, then you put the other end where it's convenient for you. I've considered getting the longer, V-Drive, version so I could run it all the way to up under my motorbox.

http://www.nautiqueparts.com/rudderportservicewhip51incbracket.aspx
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnsugar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2015 at 12:27pm
No Zerk.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2015 at 12:32pm
John,
What is your though about wanting a flex line? Copper tubing is pretty flexible but rubber or plastic is an option as well.

Also, why do you want to grease the port? Not all like yours have the feature. In fact, when it comes to history, the greasable port on small craft is relatively new.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnsugar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2015 at 12:36pm
Info from other threads says that SN changed to remove the zerk for a number of years due to environmental regulations. The rudder box eventually dries out and steering is stiff. Many owners have added a zerk. Thanks for the link. I sent my question to nautiqueparts as it looks like they may carry what I need. I will post here with what they say.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2015 at 12:43pm
Originally posted by johnsugar johnsugar wrote:

Info from other threads says that SN changed to remove the zerk for a number of years due to environmental regulations. The rudder box eventually dries out and steering is stiff. Many owners have added a zerk.

So, the EPA want's you to pump grease into the lake? . What other sites have you been to where adding a zerk is suggested? BTW, none of my boats have EVER had stiff steering due to a dried out port. In fact, none of any boat I've ever worked on has had one ether? If your steering is stiff, have you isolated the cause? Cables are a known issue.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnsugar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2015 at 12:48pm
Sorry I didn't save the other forum messages. I have already replaced the steering cable and it is infact my rudder box that is dried out. It is apparently common for my model year as well as some others. I also read that the environmental concern was not valid and the zerk for greasing was re-introduced at some point. I'm not an expert, just passing on what I have found out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2015 at 3:31pm
John,
Have you done or considered a port repack?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhersey29 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2015 at 5:27pm
Several posts have been made referencing CC cables. CC does not make cables. They are mostly Teleflex/Seastar I just want to clarify this incase someone spends hours trying to find CC cables.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnsugar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2015 at 6:56pm
Yes I considered repacking. It's difficult to access so I decided to put in the remote zerk at the same time so next time (if there is one) it will be easy. The link you posted was perfect and is the part I need. I got my question answered. I must drill and tap a 1/4"-28 size threaded hole for the part. I'm all set.

Yes, CC doesn't make the cable. Teleflex makes one that is a perfect fit. I didn't have to modify or change a thing to my original set up. It's on this link in case anyone needs it.
http://www.nautiqueparts.com/steeringcableallnautiquesfrom1993to1997.aspx
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2015 at 7:23pm

Yes, CC doesn't make the cable. Teleflex makes one that is a perfect fit. I didn't have to modify or change a thing to my original set up. It's on this link in case anyone needs it.

As you can see under their important note, all '95's are not the same. Always consult your parts professional I converted mine from the old narrower style to the newer one requiring a new helm base. If I ever need another new cable the wider style is the less expensive cable. It's also a good idea to lubricate your helm and base when you have it apart,mine was dry and added to the hard steering.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2015 at 8:04pm
Originally posted by jhersey29 jhersey29 wrote:

Several posts have been made referencing CC cables. CC does not make cables. They are mostly Teleflex/Seastar I just want to clarify this incase someone spends hours trying to find CC cables.

You are very correct they don't make the cables. However, if you read farther, you will note that the cables are a specific length that are made for CC and only available from CC. Lets see, I don't think CC makes the vinyl, the resin, the fiberglass, the engine, the instrumentation, the windshield, all the bronze parts, the prop, the graphics, the rub rails, the carpet, the helm wheel, the batteries, the fasteners, the key pads, the bilge pump, the bilge blower, thr gas shocks, the hatch hinges, the helm throttle/shift, the exhaust tip(s) or the flotation foam. I'm sure I missed lots that CC purchases.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhersey29 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 2:16pm
Pete, you completely missed the point. But lets keep.the thread on track. I'm pretty sure CC doesn't buy anything but office supplies, accounting, computers etc. Nautique and their other subsidiaries might however purchase those items CC is a holding company.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 3:30pm
Sure now they are but the boats in question were.built by the Meloons
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnsugar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2015 at 7:49pm
Update.
Got the zerk and extension put in. Night and Day. I probably didn't even need to replace the cable. Dry rudder box was definitely the issue. The 95 is hard to access without tank removal but I was able to drill t and thread the hole without taking the rudder off at all. I don't recommend doing it as it would be easy to drill too far but it worked for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ellisaudio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2015 at 7:57pm
Thanks for the update.

Your data point is very good to know.

I did my rudder grease zerk and steering cable at the same time.

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